The
2024 Roku Ultra is a $100 media streamer with WiFi 6 and a faster
processor
date: 2024-09-24, from: Liliputing
These days it’s hard to buy a TV that doesn’t have some sort of smart TV
software baked in. But if you’ve got an older model that doesn’t have
any software, is missing important features, or no longer gets updates,
there’s no shortage of devices you can plug into your display to make it
easy […]
Warm
embrace of CHIPS Act cash envelopes Polar Semiconductor
date: 2024-09-24, updated: 2024-09-24, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
Minnow of among government funded whales to double production capacity
US-based Polar Semiconductor – the maker of analog and power chip
devices and sensors – has bagged $123 million of CHIPS and Science Act
funding to nearly double production capacity in the US.…
US
Navy ship operating in Mideast damaged in incident, officials say
date: 2024-09-24, from: VOA News USA
DUBAI, United Arab Emirates — A U.S. Navy replenishment ship
operating in the Middle East sustained damage in an incident which is
under investigation, officials said Tuesday.
The damage to the USNS Big Horn comes after the oiler had supplied
the USS Abraham Lincoln strike group and remained in the region amid
heightened tensions over the Israel-Hamas war and Israel’s ongoing
strikes targeting Hezbollah in Lebanon.
A U.S. Navy official, speaking on condition of anonymity to discuss
matters yet to be made public, said the damage happened in the Mideast,
but declined to elaborate on its location.
“All crew members are safe, and we’re assessing the situation, and
we’ll provide additional information at a later time,” the official
said. There was no sign of an oil leak from the vessel.
Another U.S. official, who spoke on condition of anonymity for the
same reason, said the vessel was being supported by private tugboats and
an assessment was still ongoing for the vessel.
Florida
Is Bracing for a Potential Category 4 Hurricane
date: 2024-09-24, from: Heatmap News
Current conditions: Hurricane John is bringing
dangerous storm surge to Mexico’s Pacific coast • Flash floods and
landslides are inundating villages in northern Thailand • Phoenix
officials
confirmed
the city had 113 straight days of temperatures over 100 degrees
Fahrenheit this summer, breaking the previous record, set in 1993, of 76
days.
THE TOP FIVE
State of emergency issued in Florida ahead of potential hurricane
Florida Gov. Ron DeSantis declared a
state
of emergency in 41 of the state’s 67 counties ahead of a storm that
is expected to slam into the state’s Gulf coast Thursday as a Category 3
or maybe even Category 4 hurricane. The executive order activates the
Florida National Guard and emergency response teams. “As the system
approaches, I’m urging Floridians to finalize their storm prep, monitor
weather reports and follow the guidance of local authorities,” DeSantis
said. “Stay Safe, Florida.”
AccuWeather
Tropical Storm Nine could strengthen into Hurricane Helene with maximum
sustained wind gusts of 111-130 miles per hour,
according
to AccuWeather meteorologists. It could bring up to 12 inches of
rain near the point of landfall, but flooding could happen as far north
as the Ohio River Valley. Some parts of the Florida Panhandle could see
up to 15 feet of storm surge. “This is going to be a life-threatening
storm with dangerous storm surge,” said AccuWeather meteorologist Bernie
Rayno. “The one factor that is alarming is how incredibly high water
temperatures are, which can fuel rapid intensification right along the
forecast track of this storm.”
Biden to speak at Climate Week event
President Biden will speak today at Climate Week NYC, taking the stage
at the Bloomberg Global Business forum. His comments will highlight his
administration’s climate agenda and clean energy policies and how they
are “lowering costs, creating good-paying and union jobs, and reducing
harmful emissions,”
according
to a White House statement. E&E Newsreported
that many of Biden’s top energy and environmental officials are out in
force, trying to remind everyone that the climate landscape would look
very different under a Trump presidency.
All eyes on the Global Renewables Summit
Also happening at Climate Week today: The Global Renewables Summit,
taking place at the Plaza Hotel. World leaders including European
Commission President Ursula von der Leyen and the president of this
year’s COP29 summit will be
expected
to speak about the global goal to triple renewable energy capacity by
2030. The International Energy Agency released a
report
today concluding that the goal, which was set at last year’s COP28, is
within reach but only if countries ramp up transmission expansion and
dramatically increase energy storage. “Further international cooperation
is vital to deliver fit-for-purpose grids, sufficient energy storage and
faster electrification, which are integral to move clean energy
transitions quickly and securely,” said IEA Executive Director Fatih
Birol. Another new
report,
from the International Renewable Energy Agency, found that 81% of the
new renewable energy capacity added last year was cheaper than fossil
fuels.
Meanwhile, at the U.N. General Assembly, leaders of developing nations
issued a
plea
for the world’s developed countries to stop paying “lip service” and
lead the way on emissions cuts and climate finance.
First Street examines U.S. banks’ climate risks
The non-profit research foundation First Street released a new
report
yesterday examining the growing financial risks associated with climate
disasters. Using its climate risk financial modeling tool, First Street
found that 57 U.S. banks with a total of $627 billion in real estate
loans could face material financial risk. Those loans represent nearly
11% of all loans in the country. Regional and community banks are
especially vulnerable “given the concentrated nature of their lending
portfolios.”
“Through climate risk financial modeling, we are able to get the first
glimpse of the financial institutions which have material financial risk
from their exposure to the physical impacts of climate change,” said
Dr. Jeremy Porter, head of climate implications at First Street. “While
this risk is material by definition, banks are finally in a position
where they can proactively manage these risks to dramatically change
their risk profile over time.”
California sues ExxonMobil
The state of California is
suing
ExxonMobil, accusing the oil giant of lying about plastic being
recyclable and overpromising on its “advanced recycling” technology. “We
are asking the court to hold ExxonMobil fully accountable for its role
in actively creating and exacerbating the plastics pollution crisis
through its campaign of deception,” California Attorney General Rob
Bonta said. “The case opens a new front in the legal battles against oil
and gas companies over climate and environmental issues,”
explainedThe New York Times. But legal experts say the state
will face an uphill battle in the suit.
THE KICKER
“Even in states where coal makes up a large share of the power grid
— such as West Virginia, Wyoming, or Missouri — EVs produce half as much
CO2 as gasoline vehicle. That’s because EVs are much more energy
efficiency than internal combustion vehicles. So even though coal is a
dirtier energy source than gasoline or diesel, EVs need to far less of
it (in the form of electricity) to drive an additional mile.”
–Robinson Meyer
explains
why switching to an EV matters so much for the climate, as part of
Heatmap’s new
Decarbonize
Your Life special report.
Tokyo — U.S. naval dominance, unchallenged for decades, is now coming
under strain as China’s state-backed shipbuilding industry rapidly
expands, while the U.S. Navy faces severe maintenance delays.
The impact is being felt across the Navy. While some ships and
submarines are stuck waiting for repairs at overcrowded U.S. shipyards,
others are forced into extended deployments, pushing crews and vessels
to their limits.
Analysts say the delays undermine the U.S. ability to project
strength and deter conflict, especially in key areas like the Taiwan
Strait and South China Sea, where China is upsetting the status quo.
To help fix the problem, the U.S. is turning to its allies —
particularly Japan, one of the world’s largest shipbuilders. Earlier
this year, U.S. and Japanese officials began negotiating a plan to
expand Japan’s role in performing major repairs on U.S. Navy vessels at
its shipyards.
Rahm Emanuel, U.S. ambassador to Japan, sees the proposal as crucial
for keeping U.S. ships in the region. “The Indo-Pacific is an away game
for us…but with allies, it’s closer to a home game,” Emanuel told
VOA.
The discussions underscore Japan’s broader shift toward a more active
regional security role, as it steps away from decades of pacifism. It’s
also part of a strategy by the U.S. to encourage its Asian allies to
take on greater security responsibilities in the face of China’s rising
influence.
However, the proposal faces major hurdles. In the U.S., legal changes
would be needed to allow foreign shipyards to overhaul Navy vessels. In
Japan, there are concerns about becoming a bigger target for China.
Severe backlog
But for the U.S. Navy, the challenge is severe.
According to the Congressional Research Service (CRS), about a third
of the U.S. attack submarine fleet is currently out of service, either
undergoing maintenance or awaiting repairs.
Fewer than 40% of the Navy’s scheduled ship repairs are completed on
time, according to recent congressional testimony. By some estimates,
the Navy is 20 years behind in maintenance work.
A wide range of key shipbuilding projects are also running years
behind schedule — an “extraordinary situation” in the post-World War II
history of the Navy, according to CRS.
Emanuel argues this reflects a broader decline in the U.S. defense
industrial base, which has been hollowed out since the 1990s and is “not
ready” to meet U.S. security needs.
“Every weapon that we’ve agreed to here, I’ve had to renegotiate the
contract once it’s signed because we can’t meet the budget at the
timeline,” Emanuel said. “It’s really bad planning [and] really bad
preparation.”
According to a recent CRS report, the Navy’s repair backlog is caused
by a shortage of skilled workers and limited capacity at the four U.S.
government-run naval shipyards.
China challenge
Meanwhile, China boasts 20 large shipyards, which it is using to
quickly build up what is already the world’s largest navy in terms of
overall vessels.
According to a recent unclassified slide released by U.S. naval
intelligence, China’s shipbuilding capacity is over 200 times that of
the United States, fueled by generous government subsidies.
Even though the U.S. still maintains significant naval advantages —
such as 11 aircraft carriers compared to China’s three and an unrivaled
network of global alliances — some observers believe that China’s
ability to dwarf U.S. shipbuilding represents a fundamental shift in the
regional balance of power.
“We’ve let that underlying capacity atrophy to the point where we’re
behind the eight ball at the moment, and that’s a big, thorny problem,”
said Sam Byers, the senior national security advisor at the Washington
D.C.-based Center for Maritime Strategy.
Benefits and drawbacks
In Emanuel’s estimation, the U.S.-Japan ship repair proposal could
alleviate the U.S. Navy’s maintenance backlog, freeing U.S. shipyards to
focus on meeting their construction goals. It would also allow U.S.
ships to stay for longer in Asia, he said.
But not everyone agrees.
Bryan Clark, a senior fellow at the Hudson Institute, argues that the
problem isn’t a lack of shipyard capacity but rather their inconsistent
use, due to fluctuating demand from the Navy. He suggests that repairing
more ships overseas could help manage these fluctuations and minimize
disruptions for Japan-based crews.
“And repair yards in Japan could gain experience working on U.S.
ships, which could be beneficial in a conflict,” he added.
However, he cautioned that shifting work overseas wouldn’t solve the
underlying issues of funding and planning that contribute to the Navy’s
repair delays.
“Of course, the Japanese ship repair yards may do a better job or be
more efficient than their American counterparts. If that is the
argument, then U.S. officials should make that clear,” Clark said.
Others in the shipbuilding industry have argued against what they see
as outsourcing U.S. Navy shipbuilding and repairs, a step they
characterize as “kicking American shipyard workers to the curb.”
Japan risks
There are also barriers in Japan, where public opinion doesn’t always
align with the government’s more assertive security stance.
While certain segments of the Japanese public appear more supportive
of increased military involvement after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine,
it’s unclear how deep or lasting this shift is, warned Misato Matsuoka,
an associate professor at Teikyo University.
“There is this gap of understanding when it comes to what is going on
in the security area,” Matsuoka said. “I don’t see a lot of Japanese who
are even aware of these changes.”
Matsuoka also warned that the U.S.-Japan ship repair proposal could
eventually be seen as one of many factors escalating U.S.-China
tensions, potentially impacting Japan negatively.
“All the things Japan is doing makes it more important within the
U.S. alliance but that also increases the risk of something happening to
Japanese territory,” said Robert Ward, Japan Chair at the International
Institute for Strategic Studies.
While Japan deepens ties with the U.S., it is careful not to provoke
China, Ward noted. Nonetheless, Japan, like many countries, remains wary
of what it sees as China’s destabilizing behavior in the region.
“This isn’t happening in a vacuum,” Ward said, referring to Japan’s
changing security posture. “There are very good reasons why all this is
happening.”
When it comes to the U.S.-Japan ship repair deal, the choices are
also complex for the United States, Emanuel acknowledged. However, he
argued, sometimes “you’ve got to choose between what’s bad and what’s
worse.”
@Dave Winer’s
linkblog (date: 2024-09-24, from: Dave Winer’s linkblog)
Credit where it’s due: WaPo has already published two stories this
week that attempt to cover Trump like the conman he is, rather than the
good faith politician he is often treated as.
How
to spot a North Korean agent before they get comfy inside payroll
date: 2024-09-24, updated: 2024-09-24, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
Mandiant publishes cheat sheet for weeding out fraudulent IT staff
Against a backdrop of rising exposure to North Korean agents seeking
(mainly) US IT roles, organizations now have a cheat sheet to help spot
potential operatives.…
The art market is in somewhat of a funk right now. Auction houses are
reporting that demand for new pieces of art has dipped recently, partly
due to external conditions like higher interest rates. While the
downturn upends years of strong sales, art critic Blake Gopnik argues
that a correction may ultimately benefit the long-run fortunes of
artists. And, a look inside the Justice Department’s reported case
against Visa over monopoly claims in the debit card market.
From the BBC World Service: Shein, a Chinese fashion giant, has come
under fire over claims the company is dodging UK taxes. A look at why
some want the government to step in. The Chinese government is stepping
up efforts to revive its slowing economy. Everton Football Club, one of
England’s top football teams, is set for a takeover by an American
investment group. And a new – and very pink – Barbie-branded phone is
hitting the U.S. market.
Capita
wins £135M extension on much-delayed UK smart meter rollout
date: 2024-09-24, updated: 2024-09-24, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
Outsourcing firm has been building network for over a decade now – how’s
that going?
The poster child of UK outsourcing, Capita, has won a two-year extension
to its license to manage the delivery of the UK’s smart meter secure
communications platform, a system dogged by delays.…
From
Men and Coal to Power & Light: Russell Lee Photos on Display in
Washington, DC, Eight Decades Apart
date: 2024-09-24, from: National Archives, Pieces of History blog
Today’s post by Robert Pines, a public affairs specialist with Public
and Media Communications in Washington, DC, is inspired by a photo
series he found while browsing the National Archives Catalog. “All the
essential characteristics of a coal-mining community—except for the coal
dust and the odors—are portrayed.” These are the words used in
promotional material …
Continue
reading From Men and Coal to Power
& Light: Russell Lee Photos on Display in Washington, DC, Eight
Decades Apart
Post-IPO
Raspberry Pi results in: So you can make money in tech without added
AI
date: 2024-09-24, updated: 2024-09-24, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
The little computer-that-could benefits as supply chain eases
Raspberry Pi has reported a jump in revenue and profit for the first
half of 2024, sending the company’s shares soaring despite marginally
lower volumes than expected.…
They may only control the House of Representatives for now, but
Republicans in Washington are already arguing amongst themselves about
what they’ll do if they take control of both congressional chambers and
the White House in November’s elections. And one of the most intense
debates concerns the Inflation Reduction Act, one of Joe Biden’s
signature legislative accomplishments and the most important climate
bill ever passed in the U.S. Should they repeal it? Repeal it, then
drown it, then set it on fire? That’s what some would prefer to do. But
the reality may be more delicate than that.
Earlier this month, Speaker of the House Mike Johnson gave a speech to a
conservative group in which he
vowed
to “cut the wasteful Green New Deal spending in the Democrats’ so-called
Inflation Reduction Act” if Republicans take control (for the
uninitiated, “wasteful Green New Deal spending” essentially means
“whatever environmental spending you don’t like”). But he also said in
an
interview
that “You’ve got to use a scalpel and not a sledgehammer” when going
after the IRA, “because there’s a few provisions in there that have
helped overall.”
To many Republicans, that was nothing less than blasphemy. “A
sledgehammer to the so-called Inflation Reduction Act is what is
needed,”
said
Representative Chip Roy, Republican of Texas. “Something tells me that’s
going to be an issue of contention next year between some of my
colleagues and their districts where they might have interests who love
the largesse of Washington, D.C.,”
said
Representative Byron Donalds of Florida. “Repeal the IRA now.
Completely,”
said
Representative Bob Good of Virginia. All are members of the far-right
Freedom Caucus. Representatives of conservative advocacy groups have
also
condemned
the idea of not repealing the IRA in full.
And yet, Johnson’s remarks also came after 18
Republicans in his caucus whose districts have benefited from the IRA
sent
him a letter warning against repealing the law. “We hear from
industry and our constituents who fear the energy tax regime will once
again be turned on its head due to Republican repeal efforts,” they
wrote. “Prematurely repealing energy tax credits, particularly those
which were used to justify investments that already broke ground, would
undermine private investments and stop development that is already
ongoing.”
What we have here is a conflict between interests and ideology. The
hard-right conservatives will say that the law violates almost
everything they believe in since it addresses climate change (which they
prefer not to do) with a big, expensive, government-driven effort (which
they hate). But for many Republicans, the IRA is bringing jobs and
economic development to their districts. And when ideology and interests
collide, interests usually prevail.
Appropriators have long understood that a key way to protect your
funding is to widen the number of people and places that benefit from
it. The Pentagon has always been adept at distributing subcontracts for
big weapons systems across as many congressional districts as possible;
if 100 different members of Congress have constituents making widgets
that go in a bomber, they’ll make sure its funding won’t get cut in the
next budget.
That idea was built into the design of the IRA, along with the
Infrastructure Investment and Jobs Act and the CHIPS and Science Act,
the other Biden-era laws that contained serious climate spending. Some
of the benefits are available to any American (like subsidies for the
purchase of electric vehicles), but others are more geographically
targeted. As it turns out, those benefits have flowed disproportionately
to Republican-run states and conservative areas. Which means that there
are a lot of Republicans in Congress who might not be on board with
repealing the IRA, even if they voted against it in the first place —
which all of them did.
As you may recall, the IRA got zero Republican votes in both the Senate
and House when it passed in August 2022. In the two years since, some of
those same Republicans who voted no have
takencredit
when IRA funds came to their states and districts, to both annoyance and
mockery from their Democratic counterparts.
Hypocritical or not, the economic logic can be hard to deny. According
to
an
analysis by Bloomberg News, $206
billion in clean technology manufacturing investments have been
announced under President Biden, most of which involve EVs and
batteries. Of that total, $42 billion will be spent in districts
represented by Democrats, while $161 billion, nearly four times as much,
will go to Republican districts. Overall, that spending can be found in
185 congressional districts.
Other
estimates put the amount of investment even higher.
Many of the politicians representing these districts are conservative
Republicans who haven’t abandoned their ideology — at least not
rhetorically. Some of them may be outright climate deniers, who will be
happy to rail against wasteful government spending and the Green New
Deal if you ask them to. But if it comes to a vote that would cut off
subsidies to a factory that’s employing thousands of their constituents,
they’re almost certainly going to say no.
And if you’re an advocate of climate action, that’s fine. They can
bloviate all they want. That’s why the IRA was designed the way it was:
to make progress on climate, and ensure that that law was durable. White
House economist Heather Boushey recently
said
that one of the administration’s climate goals is to “create more path
dependency,” so climate progress will be harder to undo. That doesn’t
mean that there aren’t vulnerable provisions of the law, but they’re
likely to be the ones that don’t have advocates on both sides of the
aisle; a manufacturing tax credit may be safer than the one on purchases
of heat pumps.
We’ve come to expect that the passage of a major law doesn’t end the
fight over it; Republicans tried for years to repeal the Affordable Care
Act, and some are still talking about doing so 14 years after it passed.
But they never succeeded because it would have hurt too many people.
That history might repeat itself.
NEW YORK — Attention, Kmart shoppers, the end is near!
The erstwhile retail giant renowned for its Blue Light Specials —
featuring a flashing blue orb affixed to a pole enticing shoppers to a
flash sale — is shuttering its last full-scale store in mainland United
States.
The store, located in swank Bridgehampton, New York, on Long Island,
is slated to close Oct. 20, according to Denise Rivera, an employee who
answered the phone at the store late Monday. The manager wasn’t
available, she said.
That will leave only a small Kmart store in Miami. It has a handful
of stores in Guam and the U.S. Virgin Islands.
Transformco, the company that bought the assets of Sears and Kmart
out of the bankruptcy of Sears Holdings in 2019, did not immediately
respond to an email requesting comment.
In its heyday, there were more than 2,000 Kmarts in the U.S.
Struggling to compete with Walmart’s low prices and Target’s trendier
offerings, Kmart filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in early
2002 — becoming the largest U.S. retailer to take that step — and
announced it would close more than 250 stores.
A few years later, hedge fund executive Edward Lampert combined Sears
and Kmart and pledged to return them to their former greatness. But the
2008 recession and the rising dominance of Amazon contributed in
derailing that mission. Sears filed for Chapter 11 in 2018 and now has
just a handful of stores left in the U.S., where it once had
thousands.
Cloudflare
tightens screws on site-gobbling AI bots
date: 2024-09-24, updated: 2024-09-24, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
When robots.txt just ain’t cutting the mustard
Cloudflare on Monday expanded its defense against the dark arts of AI
web scrapers by providing customers with a bit more visibility into, and
control over, unwelcome content raids.…
Climate
goal to triple global renewable energy by 2030 within reach, IEA
says
date: 2024-09-24, from: VOA News USA
LONDON — A goal to triple global renewable energy capacity by 2030
and cut fossil fuel use is within reach, the International Energy Agency
said in a report on Tuesday, but will require a huge push to unlock
bottlenecks such as permitting and grid connections.
The report comes as leaders from government and business come
together at New York Climate week to try to drive forward action against
climate change.
Almost 200 countries at the COP 28 climate summit in Dubai last year
agreed to reach net zero emissions from the energy sector by 2050 and
pledged to triple renewable energy capacity like wind and solar.
The IEA said the renewable energy goal “is within reach thanks to
favorable economics, ample manufacturing potential and strong policies,”
but said more renewable capacity by itself would not slash fossil fuel
use and reduce costs for consumers.
“To unlock the full benefits of the tripling goal, countries need to
make a concerted push to build and modernize 25 million kilometers of
electricity grids by 2030… The world would also need 1,500 gigawatts
(GW) of energy storage capacity by 2030,” the IEA said.
Countries at COP 28 also pledged to double energy efficiency measures
to help curb power use, but this target will require governments to make
efficiency much more of a policy priority.
Countries must embed the renewable and energy efficiency goals in
their national plans to meet goals set under the Paris climate
agreement, the IEA said.
Emissions from the global energy sector hit a record high last
year.
Tripling renewable energy capacity and doubling energy efficiency
measures to reduce power use could reduce global greenhouse gas
emissions by 10 billion metric tons by the end of the decade compared
with what is otherwise expected, the report said.
Xen to
RISC-V port progresses with foundational efforts
date: 2024-09-24, updated: 2024-09-24, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
But work on big ticket items needed to make the combo a contender is yet
to commence
The effort to bring the Xen hypervisor to the RISC-V instruction set
architecture has advanced – a little – but big jobs that would make both
projects a contender for more workloads are still on developers’ to-do
lists.…
Vietnam
finds a formula – C = SET + 1 – to grow its semiconductor
industry to $100bn
date: 2024-09-24, updated: 2024-09-24, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
It only adds up to being as big as Nvidia today, in 2050
The Vietnamese government claims to have found a magical mathematical
formula that will elevate its semiconductor industry to an annual
turnover of $100 billion by 2050.…
YouTube Version | Podcast Version Got 10,000 subscribers on the YouTube
Channel, and did a Q&A! Watch the video link above if you want to
see my pretty face. Or just read the script below. It’s funny in the
last video I made a remark about how I wasn’t getting paid by YouTube,
and then
US
commits to defense support for Taiwan as defense industry conference
begins
date: 2024-09-24, from: VOA News USA
state department — The United States has pledged to continue
providing Taiwan with equipment and services essential for maintaining a
self-defense capability in line with the threats it faces. This
statement came as an annual U.S.-Taiwan defense industry conference
kicked off Sunday in Philadelphia.
In the lead-up to the event, the conference organizer — the
U.S.-Taiwan Business Council (USTBC) — was targeted by a phishing
cyberattack involving a forged registration form embedded with
information-stealing malware.
Despite the hackers’ attempt, the council — a nonprofit trade
association founded in 1976 to promote commerce between the U.S. and
Taiwan — thwarted the attack. The identity of the attackers remains
unknown.
“As the council has been targeted by similar attacks for more than 20
years, we realized quickly that the document was suspicious,” USTBC said
in a statement. The statement added that the council submitted the
document to an online virus scanner, confirmed it was malicious and
deleted it.
This year’s U.S.-Taiwan Defense Industry Conference, which ends
Tuesday, is the 23rd annual event in a series of conferences addressing
U.S. defense cooperation with Taiwan.
“There will be considerable focus on how Taiwan’s efforts to deter a
Chinese attack are progressing … and how U.S. industry should support
the U.S. and Taiwan government policy,” said Rupert Hammond-Chambers,
president of the U.S.-Taiwan Business Council.
“This is the most important annual gathering of U.S. industry and
policymakers on U.S.-Taiwan defense relations,” he added.
Taiwan Relations Act
The State Department said that American officials’ participation in
the annual conference aligns with long-standing U.S. policy.
Swift provision of equipment and services “is essential for Taiwan’s
self-defense, and we will continue to work with industry to support that
goal,” a State Department spokesperson told VOA.
“We continue to have an abiding interest in maintaining peace and
stability across the Taiwan Strait. Our ‘One China’ policy has not
changed and remains guided by the Taiwan Relations Act, three joint
communiques and six assurances,” the spokesperson added.
The 1979 U.S.-China Joint Communique shifted diplomatic recognition
from the Republic of China (ROC), Taiwan’s formal name, to the People’s
Republic of China (PRC).
Relations between the U.S. and Taiwan have since been governed by the
Taiwan Relations Act, passed by Congress in April 1979, under which the
U.S. provides defense equipment to Taiwan.
The act states that “any effort to determine the future of Taiwan by
other than peaceful means, including by boycotts or embargoes,” is a
threat to the peace and security of the Western Pacific area and of
“grave concern to the United States.”
For decades, the U.S. has been clear that its decision to establish
diplomatic relations with China in 1979 rested on the expectation that
“the future of Taiwan will be determined by peaceful means,” as
stipulated in the Taiwan Relations Act.
China has objected to the Taiwan Relations Act — a U.S. public law —
and deemed it invalid.
In 2022, the U.S. Congress authorized the president to direct the
drawdown of up to $1 billion per fiscal year in Defense Department
equipment and services for Taiwan. Since 2010, the State Department has
authorized more than $38 billion in foreign military sales to
Taiwan.
PRC sanctioned nine US firms
Since its establishment in 1949, the People’s Republic of China has
never ruled Taiwan, but it views the democratically governed island as
its own territory and has vowed to bring Taiwan under its control, even
by force.
In recent years, the PRC has frequently sent military vessels near
Taiwan and warplanes into its air defense identification zone to
pressure the island to accept Chinese sovereignty.
Last week, China announced sanctions against nine American companies
in response to U.S. defense equipment sales to Taiwan. Beijing’s latest
action aims to exert additional pressure on Washington to halt its arms
sales to the Taipei government.
The sanctions followed the U.S. approval of an estimated $228 million
package of spare parts and other hardware for Taiwan’s aging air
force.
In Beijing, officials asserted that U.S. weapons sales to Taiwan
undermine China’s sovereignty and security interests.
“China urges the U.S. to earnestly abide by the one China principle
and the three China-U.S. joint communiques and immediately stop the
dangerous trend of arming Taiwan,” said Lin Jian, a spokesperson for
China’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs, during a recent briefing.
“We will take strong and resolute measures to firmly defend our
national sovereignty, security and territorial integrity,” Lin
added.
The United States does not subscribe to the PRC’s “one China
principle,” the U.S. State Department said. “The PRC continues to
publicly misrepresent U.S. policy.”
Some
US Kaspersky customers find their security software replaced by
‘UltraAV’
date: 2024-09-24, updated: 2024-09-24, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
Back story to replacement for banned security app isn’t enormously
reassuring
Some US-based users of Kaspersky antivirus products have found their
software replaced by product from by a low-profile entity named
“UltraAV” – a change they didn’t ask for, and which has delivered them
untested and largely unknown software from a source with a limited track
record.…
$375
million US military aid package for Ukraine expected as soon as
Wednesday
date: 2024-09-24, from: VOA News USA
Pentagon — The U.S. military is expected to announce a new military
aid package for Ukraine this week valued at up to $375 million, the
largest aid sent to Kyiv since May.
According to several U.S. officials, who spoke to VOA on condition of
anonymity to discuss the package ahead of the announcement, the aid for
Kyiv is expected to be announced as soon as Wednesday.
One official told VOA the package is likely to include air-to-ground
munitions for F-16 fighter jets, which would allow Ukrainian pilots to
operate away from the front lines and Russia’s air defenses.
The package also includes ammunition for HIMARS, patrol boats and
armored vehicles, along with 155mm rounds, 105 mm rounds and TOW
missiles, the official added.
The package, which is still being finalized and could change,
according to the U.S. officials, is being sent under the presidential
drawdown authority that allows the Pentagon to send Ukraine aid directly
from its American military stockpiles.
The Pentagon has more than $5 billion left of the $61 billion in
funding for Ukraine that was signed into law by President Joe Biden in
April and could expire at the end of this month. The Pentagon says it is
working with Congress to roll the remaining funding over to the next
U.S. fiscal year, which begins Oct. 1. The officials tell VOA they are
working on contingency plans should Congress not approve the extension
before the end of the fiscal year.
The package is expected to be announced as Ukrainian President
Volodymyr Zelenskyy is set to meet with President Biden and Vice
President and Democratic presidential nominee Kamala Harris Thursday at
the White House. Officials say Zelenskyy will lay out his plan to end
the war with Russia and push for restrictions on U.S.-provided missiles
to be lifted.
U.S. policy does not allow Ukraine to use U.S.-supplied weapons to
fire on targets deep within Russian territory. The White House has
expressed concerns that these strikes could draw the United States into
direct conflict with Russia.
Earlier this month, Zelenskyy told military allies meeting in Germany
that his country needs the long-range capability to strike deep inside
Russian territory “so that Russia is motivated to seek peace.”
The U.S. says that Russia has moved most of its aircraft and weapons
out of range of Ukraine’s weapons, but Ukrainian officials are still
interested in targeting supply lines and command centers closer to its
border.
Air Force General James Hecker, the commander of U.S. Air Forces in
Europe and Africa, warned reporters last week that Russia’s military is
now bigger and stronger than it was before invading Ukraine in February
2022.
Despite Russian improvements on the battlefield, Ukraine has
continued to put chinks in Russia’s armor, shooting down more than 100
Russian aircraft, which is dozens more aircraft than Russia has been
able to down on the Ukrainian side, according to Hecker.
“So what we see is the aircraft are kind of staying on their own side
of the line, if you will, and when that happens, you have a war like
we’re seeing today, with massive attrition, cities just being
demolished, a lot of civilian casualties,” he said.
The U.S. and Denmark have been training a small number of Ukrainian
pilots on the F-16, but qualified Ukrainian pilots and open training
slots have been limited.
AI
‘not yet a revolutionary’ election influence tool, US official says
date: 2024-09-24, from: VOA News USA
washington — Russia, Iran and China are not giving up on the use of
artificial intelligence to sway American voters ahead of November’s
presidential election even though U.S. intelligence agencies assess the
use of AI has so far failed to revolutionize the election influence
efforts.
The new appraisal released late Monday from the Office of the
Director of National Intelligence comes just more than 40 days before
U.S. voters head to the polls. It follows what officials describe as a
“steady state” of influence operations by Moscow, Tehran and Beijing
aimed at impacting the race between former Republican President Donald
Trump and current Democratic Vice President Kamala Harris, as well as
other statewide and local elections.
“Foreign actors are using AI to more quickly and convincingly tailor
synthetic content,” said a U.S. intelligence official, who briefed
reporters on the condition of anonymity to discuss the latest
findings.
“AI is an enabler,” the official added. “A malign influence
accelerant, not yet a revolutionary influence tool.”
It is not the first time U.S. officials have expressed caution about
how AI could impact the November election.
A top official at the Cybersecurity and Infrastructure Security
Agency (CISA), the U.S. agency charged with overseeing election
security, told VOA earlier this month that to this point the malicious
use of AI has not been able to live up to some of the hype.
“Generative AI is not going to fundamentally introduce new threats to
this election cycle,” said CISA senior adviser Cait Conley. “What we’re
seeing is consistent with what we expected to see.”
That does not mean, however, that U.S. adversaries are not
trying.
The new U.S. intelligence assessment indicates Russia, Iran and China
have used AI to generate text, images, audio and video and distribute
them across all major social media platforms.
Iran and Russia have yet to respond to requests for comment. Both
have previously rejected U.S. allegations regarding election influence
campaigns.
The Chinese Embassy in Washington dismissed the U.S. intelligence
assessment as “full of prejudice and malicious speculation.”
“China actively advocates the principle of ‘putting people first’ and
‘smart for the good’ to ensure that AI is safe, reliable and
controllable,” embassy spokesperson Liu Pengyu told VOA in an email. “We
hope that the US adjusts its mindset, assumes the responsibilities of a
major country, and stops fabricating and spreading false
information.”
While U.S. intelligence officials would not say how many U.S. voters
have been exposed to such malign AI products, there is reason to think
that some of the efforts are, at least for the moment, falling
short.
“The quality is not as believable as you might expect,” said the U.S.
intelligence official.
One reason, the official said, is because Russia, Iran and China have
struggled to overcome restrictions built into some of the more advanced
AI tools while simultaneously encountering difficulties developing their
own AI models.
There are also indications that all three U.S. adversaries have to
this point failed to find ways to more effectively use AI to find and
target receptive audiences.
“To do scaled AI operations is not cheap,” according to Clint Watts,
a former FBI special agent and counterterror consultant who heads up the
Microsoft Threat Analysis Center (MTAC).
“Some of the infrastructure and the resources of it [AI], the models,
the data it needs to be trained [on] – very challenging at the moment,”
Watts told a cybersecurity summit in Washington earlier this month. “You
can make more of everything misinformation, disinformation, but it
doesn’t mean they’ll be very good.”
In some cases, U.S. adversaries see traditional tactics, which do not
rely on AI, as equally effective.
For instance, U.S. intelligence officials on Monday said a video
claiming that Vice President Harris injured a girl in a 2011 hit-and-run
accident was staged by Russian influence actors, confirming an
assessment last week by Microsoft.
The officials also said altered videos showing Harris speaking
slowly, also the result of Russian influence actors, could have been
done without relying on AI.
For now, experts and intelligence officials agree that when it comes
to AI, Russia, Iran and China have settled on quantity over quality.
Microsoft has tracked hundreds of instances of AI use by Russia, Iran
and China over the past 14 months. And while U.S. intelligence officials
would not say how much AI-generated material has been disseminated, they
agree Russian-linked actors, especially, have been leading the way.
“These items include AI-generated content of and about prominent U.S.
figures … consistent with Russia’s broader efforts to boost the former
president’s candidacy and denigrate the vice president and the
Democratic Party,” the U.S. intelligence official said, calling Russia
one of the most sophisticated actors in knowing how to target American
voters.
Those efforts included an AI-boosted effort to spread disinformation
with a series of fake web domains masquerading as legitimate U.S. news
sites, interrupted earlier this month by the U.S. Department of
Justice.
Iran, which has sought to hurt the re-election bid by former
President Trump, has also copied the Russian playbook, according to the
new U.S. assessment, seeking to sow discord among U.S. voters.
Tehran has also been experimenting, using AI to help spread its
influence campaign not just in English, but also in Spanish, especially
when seeking to generate anger among voters over immigration.
“One of the benefits of generative AI models is to overcome various
language barriers,” the U.S. intelligence official said.
“So Iran can use the tools to help do that,” the official added,
calling immigration “obviously an issue where Iran perceives they could
stoke discord.”
Beijing, in some ways, has opted for a more sophisticated use of AI,
according to the U.S. assessment, using it to generate fake news anchors
in addition to fake social media accounts.
But independent analysts have questioned the reach of China’s efforts
under its ongoing operation known as “Spamouflage.”
A recent report by the social media analytics firm Graphika found
that, with few exceptions, the Chinese accounts “failed to garner
significant traction in authentic online communities discussing the
election.”
U.S. intelligence officials have also said the majority of the
Chinese efforts have been aimed not at Trump or Harris, but at state and
local candidates perceived as hostile to Beijing.
U.S. intelligence officials on Monday refused to say how many other
countries are using AI in an effort to influence the outcome of the U.S.
presidential election.
Earlier this month, U.S. Deputy Attorney General Lisa Monaco said
Washington was “seeing more actors in this space acting more
aggressively in a more polarized environment and doing more with
technologies, in particular AI.”
NASA,
US Department of Education Bring STEM to After-School Programs
date: 2024-09-23, from: NASA breaking news
NASA and the U.S. Department of Education are teaming up to engage
students in science, technology, engineering, and math (STEM) education
during after-school hours. The interagency program aims to reach
approximately 1,000 students in more than 60 sites across 10 states to
join the program, 21st Century Community Learning Centers. “Together
with the Education Department, […]
See
Ten Striking Images From the Bird Photographer of the Year Awards
date: 2024-09-23, from: Smithsonian Magazine
The annual contest unveiled its winners, highlighting avian photos
that focus on conservation issues, the beauty of birds and their
sometimes hilarious behavior
At
UN: calls to implement new pact to address global challenges
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
united nations — Leaders at the United Nations urged implementation
of a newly adopted blueprint for addressing a wide range of global
challenges on Monday, the second and final day of the Summit of the
Future.
“We cannot afford to wait any longer,” said Indonesia’s Foreign
Minister Retno Marsudi. “We must push for true and real reform – reform
that listens to the voices of developing countries and addresses their
concerns.”
She emphasized that the summit’s Pact of the Future must not become
“a set of empty promises without tangible results on the ground.”
“Success of humanity lies in our collective strength, not in the
battlefield,” said Indian Prime Minster Narendra Modi. “And for global
peace and development, reforms in global institutions are essential.
Reform is the key to relevance.”
The pact includes frameworks for promoting peace and security,
sustainable development, digital cooperation, human rights and gender
equality.
Iran’s new president, Masoud Pezeshkian, made his U.N. debut at the
summit, pledging that his administration is seeking to reduce inequality
and empower women and youth. The country saw a wave of protests in 2022
and 2023 after the death of a young woman who died in police custody
after being detained for not properly covering her head.
In New York, protesters gathered outside Pezeshkian’s hotel ahead of
his speech. A large protest is planned on Tuesday before his address to
the General Assembly’s annual debate.
Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy used his turn at the podium
to highlight Russia’s obstruction during the negotiations on the Pact
for the Future.
“Ukraine supports efforts to keep all nations united, safe, and
strictly adhere to the U.N. Charter,” he said. “And you all can see who
stands against it, but also actively works to undermine global
unity.”
In the final week of negotiations, Russia raised at least 15
different objections to elements of the text. As the assembly gathered
to adopt the document on Sunday morning, Russian Deputy Foreign Minister
Sergey Vershinin, backed by a handful of countries, tried to get an
amendment added to the pact, but it was overwhelmingly rejected by other
nations.
U.S. Secretary of State Antony Blinken is expected to address the
summit late Monday.
On Tuesday, the assembly’s annual debate kicks off. U.S. President
Joe Biden will make his farewell U.N. address. The presidents of Brazil,
South Africa, Iran and Nigeria will be among the speakers.
Afghan women
On the margins of the General Assembly meeting, Afghan women
advocated for their rights at an event focused on the inclusion of women
in the future of Afghanistan.
Last month, the Afghan Taliban enacted a “morality law” that further
erodes the rights of women and girls. Its restrictions include a
prohibition on Afghan women using their voices in public and orders them
to completely cover their bodies and faces outdoors. Women are also
forbidden from interacting with non-Muslims, using public transport
alone, and looking at men who are not their husband or blood
relative.
“To all male leaders, what if it were the reverse? How would you feel
to be banned from existing in society?” asked Asila Wardak, the former
director general of Human Rights and Women’s International Affairs in
Afghanistan’s Foreign Ministry.
Acclaimed American actor Meryl Streep participated in the panel. She
noted that historically Afghanistan was ahead of even some Western
nations in giving its women the right to vote, and it had many female
civil servants, judges, lawyers, doctors and teachers.
“Today in Kabul a female cat has more freedoms than a woman,” she
said. “A cat may go sit on her front stoop and feel the sun on her face.
She may chase a squirrel into the park. A squirrel has more rights than
a girl in Afghanistan today, because public parks are closed to women
and girls by the Taliban.”
U.N. Secretary-General Antonio Guterres demanded that the Taliban
immediately remove all the discriminatory restrictions against women and
girls and reopen schools and universities to them. Currently, Afghan
girls are only allowed to attend school until grade 6.
“We will never allow gender-based discrimination to become normalized
anywhere in the world,” Guterres said.
Gunman
who killed 10 at Colorado supermarket found guilty of murder
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
BOULDER, Colorado — A mentally ill man who killed 10 people at a
Colorado supermarket in 2021 was convicted Monday of murder and faces
life in prison.
Defense attorneys did not dispute that Ahmad Alissa, who has
schizophrenia, fatally shot 10 people including a police officer in the
city of Boulder. But he pleaded not guilty by reason of insanity, with
the defense arguing he couldn’t tell right from wrong at the time of the
attack.
In addition to 10 counts of first-degree murder, the jury found
Alissa guilty of 38 charges of attempted murder, one count of assault,
and six counts of possessing illegal, large-capacity magazines.
First-degree murder carries a mandatory life sentence in Colorado.
Sentencing in the case was set for later Monday, during which the
victims and family were expected to address the court.
Alissa did not visibly react as the judge began reciting the guilty
verdicts against him. He sat at a table with his attorneys and appeared
to trade notes with members of the defense team, speaking quietly at
times with one of his attorneys.
Judge Ingrid Bakke had warned against any outbursts. There were some
tears and restrained crying on the victims’ side of the courtroom as the
murder convictions were read.
The courtroom was packed largely with victims’ families and police
officers, including those who were shot at by Alissa. Several members of
Alissa’s family sat just behind him.
Alissa started shooting immediately after getting out of his car in a
grocery store parking lot in March 2021. He killed most of the victims
in just more than a minute and surrendered after an officer shot him in
the leg.
Prosecutors had to prove Alissa was sane. They argued he didn’t fire
randomly and showed an ability to make decisions by pursuing people who
were running and trying to hide from him. He twice passed by a
91-year-old man who continued to shop, unaware of the shooting.
He came armed with steel-piercing bullets and illegal magazines that
can hold 30 rounds of ammunition, which prosecutors said showed he took
deliberate steps to make the attack as deadly as possible.
Several members of Alissa’s family, who immigrated to the United
States from Syria, testified that he had become withdrawn and spoke less
a few years before the shooting. He later began acting paranoid and
showed signs of hearing voices, they said, and his condition worsened
after he got COVID-19 in late 2020.
Alissa was diagnosed with schizophrenia after the attack and experts
said the behaviors described by relatives are consistent with the onset
of the disease.
Microsoft
deprecates Windows Server Update Services, suggests cloud services
instead
date: 2024-09-23, from: OS News
As part of our vision for simplified Windows management from the
cloud, Microsoft has announced deprecation of Windows Server Update
Services (WSUS). Specifically, this means that we are no longer
investing in new capabilities, nor are we accepting new feature requests
for WSUS. However, we are preserving current functionality and will
continue to publish updates through the WSUS channel. We will also
support any content already published through the WSUS channel. ↫ Nir
Froimovici What an odd feature to deprecate. Anyone with a large enough
fleet of machines probably makes use of Windows Server Update Services,
as it adds some much-needed centralised control to the downloading and
deployment of Windows updates, so you can do localised partial rollouts
for testing, which, as the CrowdStrike debacle showed us once more, is
quite important. WSUS also happens to be a local tool, that is set up
and run locally, instead of in the cloud, and that’s where we get to the
real reason WSUS is being deprecated. Microsoft is advising IT managers
who use WSUS to switch to Microsoft’s alternatives, like Windows
Autopatch, Microsoft Intune, and Azure Update Manager. These all happen
to run in the cloud, giving up that control WSUS provided by running
locally, and they’re not free either – they’re subscription services, of
course. I mean, technically WSUS isn’t free either as it’s part of
Windows Server, but these cloud services come on top of the cost of
Windows Server itself. Nobody escapes the relentless march of
subscription costs.
‘Short
corn’ could replace the towering cornfields steamrolled by a changing
climate
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
wyoming, iowa — Taking a late-summer country drive in the Midwest
means venturing into the corn zone, snaking between 12-foot-tall green,
leafy walls that seem to block out nearly everything other than the sun
and an occasional water tower.
The skyscraper-like corn is a part of rural America as much as
cavernous red barns and placid cows.
But soon, that towering corn might become a miniature of its former
self, replaced by stalks only half as tall as the green giants that have
dominated fields for so long.
“As you drive across the Midwest, maybe in the next seven, eight, 10
years, you’re going to see a lot of this out there,” said Cameron
Sorgenfrey, an eastern Iowa farmer who has been growing newly developed
short corn for several years, sometimes prompting puzzled looks from
neighboring farmers. “I think this is going to change agriculture in the
Midwest.”
The short corn developed by Bayer Crop Science is being tested on
about 30,000 acres (12,141 hectares) in the Midwest with the promise of
offering farmers a variety that can withstand powerful windstorms that
could become more frequent due to climate change. The corn’s smaller
stature and sturdier base enable it to withstand winds of up to 50 mph —
researchers hover over fields with a helicopter to see how the plants
handle the wind.
The smaller plants also let farmers plant at greater density, so they
can grow more corn on the same amount of land, increasing their profits.
That is especially helpful as farmers have endured several years of low
prices that are forecast to continue.
The smaller stalks could also lead to less water use at a time of
growing drought concerns.
U.S. farmers grow corn on about 90 million acres (36 million
hectares) each year, usually making it the nation’s largest crop, so
it’s hard to overstate the importance of a potential large-scale shift
to smaller-stature corn, said Dior Kelley, an assistant professor at
Iowa State University who is researching different paths for growing
shorter corn.
Last year, U.S. farmers grew more than 400 tons (363 metric tons) of
corn, most of which was used for animal feed, the fuel additive ethanol
or exported to other countries.
“It is huge. It’s a big, fundamental shift,” Kelley said.
Researchers have long focused on developing plants that could grow
the most corn but recently there has been equal emphasis on other
traits, such as making the plant more drought-tolerant or able to
withstand high temperatures. Although there already were efforts to grow
shorter corn, the demand for innovations by private companies such as
Bayer and academic scientists soared after an intense windstorm — called
a derecho — plowed through the Midwest in August 2020.
The storm killed four people and caused $11 billion in damage, with
the greatest destruction in a wide strip of eastern Iowa, where winds
exceeded 100 mph. In cities such as Cedar Rapids, the wind toppled
thousands of trees but the damage to a corn crop only weeks from harvest
was especially stunning.
“It looked like someone had come through with a machete and cut all
of our corn down,” Kelley said.
Or as Sorgenfrey, the Iowa farmer who endured the derecho put it,
“Most of my corn looked like it had been steamrolled.”
Although Kelley is excited about the potential of short corn, she
said farmers need to be aware that cobs that grow closer to the soil
could be more vulnerable to diseases or mold. Short plants also could be
susceptible to a problem called lodging, when the corn tilts over after
something like a heavy rain and then grows along the ground, Kelley
said.
Brian Leake, a Bayer spokesman, said the company has been developing
short corn for more than 20 years. Other companies such as Stine Seed
and Corteva also have been working for a decade or longer to offer
short-corn varieties.
While the big goal has been developing corn that can withstand high
winds, researchers also note that a shorter stalk makes it easier for
farmers to get into fields with equipment for tasks such as spreading
fungicide or seeding the ground with a future cover crop.
Bayer expects to ramp up its production in 2027, and Leake said he
hopes that by later in this decade, farmers will grow short corn
everywhere.
“We see the opportunity of this being the new normal across both the
U.S. and other parts of the world,” he said.
The first Lenovo ThinkPhone launched last year as a business-oriented
phone with a design inspired by the company’s ThinkPad laptops and the
guts of a decent phone like those offered by Lenovo subsidiary Motorola.
Now it looks like the company is preparing to launch a follow-up, but it
may not arrive until next year and […]
Jill
Biden reveals $500 million plan that focuses on women’s health at
Clinton Global Initiative
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
NEW YORK — First lady Jill Biden is unveiling a new set of actions to
address health inequities faced by women in the United States, plans
that include spending at least $500 million annually on women’s health
research.
Biden was making the announcement Monday while closing out the first
day of this year’s Clinton Global Initiative annual meeting in New
York.
The additional government spending will mainly come from the
Department of Defense, which provides medical care to more than 230,000
active-duty military women and nearly 2 million military retirees, as
well as their family members. The research will focus on why these women
experience endocrine, hematological and other immunity-related disorders
twice as often as men.
“Our nation is home to the best health research in the world, yet
women’s health is understudied and research is underfunded,” Biden said
at a separate event on Friday. “And we still know too little about how
to effectively prevent, diagnose, and treat a range of health conditions
in women, from heart disease to cancers.”
The commitment was among the largest of the more than 100 expected at
the two-day meeting of political, business and philanthropic leaders
gathering to address some of the world’s most pressing issues. Former
President Bill Clinton, former Secretary of State Hillary Clinton, and
Clinton Foundation Vice Chair Chelsea Clinton have set this year’s theme
as “What’s Working,” a way to look for potential solutions and effective
programs in tumultuous times.
“You don’t look at a problem and say, ‘That’s impossible,’” Bill
Clinton said in his opening remarks. “You don’t just throw up your
hands. You roll up your sleeves.”
An example of that strategy came from the announcement that a
wide-ranging group of 15 nonprofits, humanitarian aid organizations and
other funders will join forces to address the humanitarian crisis in
Sudan following more than a year of conflict.
The Coalition for Mutual Aid in Sudan — which includes The Bill &
Melinda Gates Foundation, Global Giving, Global Fund for Women, and The
Unitarian Universalist Service Committee — will donate at least $2
million to mutual aid groups in the country by the end of the year. It
also pledged to raise another $4.5 million for those groups within the
next two years.
Patricia McIlreavy, president of the Center for Disaster
Philanthropy, which has been representing the coalition, said that,
while much more aid is needed, the collaboration and problem-solving of
the group is an important step forward.
“It gets us started,” McIlreavy told The Associated Press. “And it
models the behavior you want to see from others. If you wait until it’s
the perfect opportunity, you’ve missed many of the opportunities that
were good enough.”
World Food Program director Cindy McCain said earlier this month that
“Sudan’s nearly a forgotten crisis” and that 25 million people there
already face acute hunger. Last week, the top United Nations
humanitarian official said fighting is escalating in the conflict that
began in April 2023 when long-simmering tensions between Sudan’s
military and paramilitary leaders broke out in the capital Khartoum and
spread to other regions. The U.N. says more than 14,000 people have been
killed and 33,000 injured.
“With ongoing impediments to a large-scale international aid
response, Sudanese community groups have become the primary frontline
responders and are currently the most effective means of reaching
millions on the brink of starvation,” Patricia McIlreavy, president of
the Center for Disaster Philanthropy, said in a prepared statement on
behalf of the coalition. “With so many lives on the line, the imperative
to support local aid efforts in Sudan has never been more urgent.”
The Center for Disaster Philanthropy says more than 12 million people
have been forced from their homes in Sudan, creating what is now the
world’s largest displacement and hunger crisis. The danger from the
conflict has prevented most international aid agencies from delivering
supplies to those in need.
Greg Milne, the Clinton Global Initiative CEO who convened a panel in
April to raise awareness and support for the Sudanese people, said the
new coalition is an example of what bringing organizations from varied
sectors can do.
“We know strong, diverse partnerships can help address often
overlooked and even dire challenges, and develop unexpected and
innovative solutions,” he said.
Philanthropic leaders, including Bill Gates, World Central Kitchen
founder Jose Andres, Open Society Foundations President Binaifer
Nowrojee, and Rockefeller Foundation President Raj Shah will share
information about their work during CGI, as will Prince Harry, who will
discuss the launch of The Archewell Foundation Parents’ Network, which
supports parents of children harmed online. In his Tuesday appearance,
the Duke of Sussex will also address his work with the World Health
Organization and others to reduce violence against children, an issue he
and his wife Meghan outlined on a recent trip to Colombia.
Brazilian President Luiz Inacio Lula da Silva, Barbados Prime
Minister Mia Mottley, Kosovo President Vjosa Osmani Sadriu, and Latvian
President Edgars Rinkevics are set to address the conference, as are
CEOs from Pfizer, Mastercard, IKEA, Pinterest, Sanofi and Chobani.
New
Video Series Spotlights Engineers on NASA’s Europa Clipper Mission
date: 2024-09-23, from: NASA breaking news
With NASA’s Europa Clipper just weeks away from launch, five short
videos give a behind-the-scenes peek at some of the engineers dedicated
to making the mission a success. What does it take to build a massive
spacecraft that will seek to determine if a mysterious moon has the
right ingredients for life? Find out in […]
The widely–reported “foo is requesting to bypass the system private
window picker and directly access your screen and audio” prompt in
Sequoia (which Apple has moved from daily to weekly to now monthly) can
be disabled by quitting the app, setting the system date far into the
future, opening and using the affected app to trigger the nag, clicking
“Allow For One Month”, then restoring the correct date. ↫ tinyapps.org
blog Or, and this is a bit of a radical idea, you could use an operating
system that doesn’t infantalise its users.
‘Cybersecurity
issue’ takes MoneyGram offline for three days – and counting
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
Still no ‘R’ word, but smells like ransomware from here
A “cybersecurity issue” has shut down MoneyGram’s systems and payment
services since Friday, and the fintech leader has yet to update
customers as to when it expects to have its global money transfer
services back up and running.…
Texas
jury clears most ‘Trump Train’ drivers in civil trial over 2020
Biden-Harris bus encounter
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
AUSTIN, Texas — A federal jury in Texas on Monday cleared a group of
former President Donald Trump supporters and found one driver liable in
a civil trial over a so-called “Trump Train” that surrounded a
Biden-Harris campaign bus on a busy highway days before the 2020
election.
The two-week trial in a federal courthouse in Austin centered on
whether the actions of the “Trump Train” participants amounted to
political intimidation. Among those aboard the bus was former Democratic
lawmaker Wendy Davis, who testified she feared for her life while a
convoy of Trump supporters boxed in the bus along Interstate 35.
The jury awarded $10,000 to the bus driver.
No criminal charges were filed against the six Trump supporters who
were sued by Davis and two others aboard the bus. Civil rights advocates
hoped a guilty verdict would send a clear message about what constitutes
political violence and intimidation.
On Oct. 20, 2020, a Biden-Harris campaign bus was traveling from San
Antonio to Austin for an event when a group of cars and trucks waving
Trump flags surrounded the bus.
Video that Davis recorded from the bus shows pickup trucks with large
Trump flags slowing down to box in the bus as it tried to move away from
the group of Trump supporters. One of the defendants hit a campaign
volunteer’s car while the trucks occupied all lanes of traffic, forcing
the bus and everyone around it to a 15 mph crawl.
It was the last day of early voting in Texas and the bus was
scheduled to stop at San Marcos for an event at Texas State
University.
The event was canceled after Davis and others on the bus — a campaign
staffer and the driver — made repeated calls to 911 asking for a police
escort through San Marcos and no help arrived.
Davis testified that she felt scared and anxious throughout the
ordeal. “I feel like they were enjoying making us afraid,” she
testified. “It’s traumatic for all of us to revisit that day.”
NASA astronaut Tracy C. Dyson is seen smiling and holding a gifted
matryoshka doll outside the Soyuz MS-25 spacecraft after she landed with
Roscosmos cosmonauts Oleg Kononenko and Nikolai Chub, in a remote area
near the town of Zhezkazgan, Kazakhstan on Monday, Sept. 23, 2024. Dyson
is returning to Earth after logging 184 days in […]
Jimmy
Lai’s son calls on US Congress to help free Hong Kong publisher
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
With pro-democracy publisher Jimmy Lai jailed in Hong Kong facing
widely condemned charges, the journalist’s son and his international
legal team are pushing the United States and other countries to help
secure Lai’s immediate release. From Washington, Liam Scott has the
story for VOA
US,
Republic of Korea Sign Statement to Advance Aerospace Cooperation
date: 2024-09-23, from: NASA breaking news
NASA and the Republic of Korea’s newly created Korea AeroSpace
Administration (KASA) signed a joint statement of intent Thursday
affirming their interest to advance cooperation in space exploration,
science, and aeronautics. The signing took place at NASA Headquarters in
Washington during the KASA’s first visit since its creation in May 2024.
“Building on years of […]
Pentagon:
Small number of additional US forces going to Middle East as risk of
greater war increases
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
Pentagon — The United States is sending a small number of additional
troops to the Middle East following a sharp spike in violence between
Israel and Hezbollah forces in Lebanon, Pentagon press secretary Major
General Pat Ryder said on Monday.
Ryder did not provide further details on the number of forces or what
they would be doing.
However, a senior U.S. official told VOA the number of troops would
be in the dozens and their primary task would be preparing for a
potential military-assisted departure of U.S. citizens, should a greater
regional war break out.
Another U.S. official stressed that the situation was not at a point
yet where a military-assisted departure was needed.
If an evacuation is needed, the U.S. military has Marines deployed
nearby who could execute the mission, another official told VOA. All
spoke on condition of anonymity to discuss sensitive national security
issues.
Ryder, in response to a VOA question on Monday, told reporters that
the Pentagon was a “planning organization” that was ready for a “wide
variety of contingencies,” should the U.S. military be called for
assistance.
“We have more capability in the region today than we did on April 14,
when Iran conducted its drone and missile attack against Israel,” he
said.
The announcement comes after several strikes by Israeli forces
against Hezbollah targets inside Lebanon have killed hundreds of people.
The State Department is warning Americans to leave Lebanon as the risk
of a regional war escalates.
Amazon,
Tesla, Meta considered harmful to democracy
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
Exploiting workers, undermining public services, exacerbating climate
crisis, ITUC says
Amazon, Meta, and Tesla have earned the rather dubious honor of being
named some of the worst corporate underminers of democracy by the
world’s largest trade union federation. …
NASA
Selects Launch Provider for New NOAA Environmental Satellite
date: 2024-09-23, from: NASA breaking news
NASA has selected Firefly Aerospace, Inc. of Cedar Park, Texas, to
provide launch services for the National Oceanic and Atmospheric
Administration (NOAA) QuickSounder mission. The selection is part of
NASA’s Venture-Class Acquisition of Dedicated and Rideshare (VADR)
launch services contract. This contract allows the agency to make
fixed-price indefinite-delivery/indefinite-quantity awards during VADR’s
five-year ordering period, […]
California
sues Exxon over global plastic pollution
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
NEW YORK — California and several environmental groups sued
ExxonMobil on Monday and accused the oil giant of engaging in a
decades-long campaign that helped fuel global plastic waste
pollution.
Speaking at an event during Climate Week in New York City, California
Attorney General Rob Bonta said the state sued Exxon after concluding a
nearly two-year investigation that he said showed Exxon was deliberately
misleading the public about the limitations of recycling.
“Today’s lawsuit shows the fullest picture to date of ExxonMobil’s
decades-long deception, and we are asking the court to hold ExxonMobil
fully accountable for its role in actively creating and exacerbating the
plastics pollution crisis through its campaign of deception,” Bonta said
in a statement.
The investigation mirrors California’s previous probes into the oil
industry’s alleged efforts to mislead the public about climate change,
which the state is also suing over, and continues a long-standing
adversarial relationship between the state and Big Oil.
Once a major crude supplier, California’s oil production has been on
a steady decline for almost four decades, with companies saying the
regulatory environment there makes it a difficult place to invest.
Exxon rival Chevron Corp., meanwhile, a strong critic of California’s
policies, said this year it plans to move its headquarters from the
state where it was born to oil-friendly Texas.
A coalition of environmental groups including the Sierra Club
appeared to join California’s legal battle, filing a related lawsuit in
the same state court in San Francisco, raising similar allegations
against Exxon.
Bonta, a Democrat, said his office specifically had sought
information on Exxon’s promotion of its “advanced recycling” technology,
which uses a process called pyrolysis to turn hard-to-recycle plastic
into fuel.
He had said the technology’s slow progress was a sign of Exxon’s
ongoing deception. He said he wants to secure an abatement fund and
civil penalties for the harm inflicted by plastics pollution on
California.
Exxon pushed back at the attorney general, arguing that solutions
like advanced recycling work.
“Suing people makes headlines but doesn’t solve the plastic waste
problem. Advanced recycling is a real solution,” said a spokesperson for
ExxonMobil, adding that California has done “nothing to ‘advance’
recycling.”
Notre Dame Law School Professor Bruce Huber, who specializes in
environmental law, said California may face an “uphill battle” with its
lawsuit.
“The state’s primary claim relies on public nuisance, a notoriously
murky area of law. It could be difficult for a court to grant California
relief here without opening a Pandora’s box of other, similar claims,”
he said.
Exxon is the world’s largest producer of resins used for single-use
plastics, according to a report published last year by the Minderoo
Foundation, with consultancies Wood Mackenzie and the Carbon Trust.
Reuters has reported on the enormous obstacles facing advanced
recycling that the plastics industry touts as an environmental
savior.
California’s lawsuit comes ahead of a final round of global plastic
treaty negotiations set to take place in Busan, South Korea, at the end
of the year.
In those talks, countries are split over whether the treaty should
call for caps on plastic production, a position opposed by Exxon and the
global petrochemical industry.
The United States last month said it supports a treaty designed
around global plastic production cuts.
Environmental groups praised the lawsuit.
Christy Leavitt, Oceana’s plastics campaign director, said
California’s lawsuit will “hold industry accountable and debunk the
plastics recycling narrative that holds us back from real
solutions.”
Will
Charging the Parents of School Shooters Help Prevent School
Shootings?
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: RAND blog
Implementing child-access-prevention laws effectively reduces youth
gun violence and should be a priority for policymakers to prevent future
tragedies. Holding parents culpable could deter some gun violence if it
leads more parents to rethink giving their children unsupervised access
to firearms.
Researchers found that eddies, or swirling wind patterns, increased
moisture evaporation in an alfalfa field. A better understanding of the
complex exchange of water and heat between the ground and atmosphere
could improve remote sensing products and their use in agricultural
water management. The station’s ECOSTRESS instrument takes
high-resolution thermal infrared measurements of Earth’s surface […]
ServiceNow
root certificate blunder leaves users high and dry
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
More like ServiceNo, or maybe ServiceNotforawhile
Some customers of enterprise cloud vendor ServiceNow have been up in
arms after a mistake with root certification left many stymied on a
Monday morning.…
Rich Trouton: On macOS Sequoia, running the [sudo spctl
–global-disable] command to disable Gatekeeper produces the following
output: Globally disabling the assessment system needs to be confirmed
in System Settings. This seems to be an intentional change—security
through preventing automation. Jeff Johnson (Mastodon): Today I learned
that I can no longer change the startup security […]
Toomas Vahter: DateFormatter is used for converting string
representation of date and time to a Date type and visa-versa. Something
to be aware of is that the conversion loses microseconds precision. This
is extremely important if we use these Date values for sorting and
therefore ending up with incorrect order. Let’s consider an iOS app
[…]
Ben Thompson: Stratechery has, from the beginning, operated with a
great degree of reverence for tech history; perhaps that’s why I’ve
always been a part of the camp cheering for Intel to succeed. The
unfortunate fact of the matter is that the need for cheerleading has
been clear for as long as I have written […]
cohost (via Hacker News): We have come to the decision to cease
operations of cohost and anti software software club due to lack of
funding and burnout. […] cohost will become read-only on Tuesday,
October 1st. At this time, we will make best-effort attempts to keep the
servers online through the end of 2024. Development […]
A good pair of true wireless earbuds with excellent sound quality and
excellent noise cancellation can easily set you back close to $200. But
if you’re willing to settle for a pretty good pair of earbuds rather
than best-in-class, it’s hard to beat the bang for the buck offered by
the Anker Soundcore Space A40 earbuds. […]
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: RAND blog
As artificial intelligence reshapes business at breakneck speed,
offices are awash in a new anxiety: Are the algorithms going to replace
our jobs? Here’s why leaders need to listen to these fears—and how they
can support workers.
US
proposes ban on Chinese, Russian connected car tech over security
fears
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
No room for your spy mobiles on our streets
The US Commerce Department has decided not to wait for the inevitable,
and today announced plans that would ban connected vehicle technology -
and vehicles using it - from Chinese and Russian sources.…
Women
in Astronomy Citizen Science Webinar This Thursday
date: 2024-09-23, from: NASA breaking news
Women hold up half the sky… but participation numbers for
NASA-sponsored citizen science projects don’t always reflect that. Why?
And what can we do to welcome people of all genders to participate?
During this week’s NASA Citizen Science Leaders Series webinar on
Thursday, September 26, 2024 from 3:00 p.m. – 4:30 p.m. EDT, we will
[…]
Celebrating
10 Years at Mars with NASA’s MAVEN Mission
date: 2024-09-23, from: NASA breaking news
A decade ago, on Sept. 21, 2014, NASA’s MAVEN (Mars Atmospheric and
Volatile EvolutioN) spacecraft entered orbit around Mars, beginning its
ongoing exploration of the Red Planet’s upper atmosphere. The mission
has produced a wealth of data about how Mars’ atmosphere
Beelink
SER9 is goes on sale or $999 and up (One of the first AMD Strix Point
mini PCs)
date: 2024-09-23, from: Liliputing
The Beelink SER9 is one of the first mini PCs powered by an AMD Strix
Point processor. First unveiled earlier this month, the little computer
is now available for pre-order. It’s not exactly cheap though: the only
configuration available at the moment comes with an AMD Ryzen AI 9 HX
370 processor, 32GB of RAM and […]
TSMC,
Samsung reportedly eye UAE’s silicon fields for fab expansion
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
There’s no shortage of sand, but chip plants are thirsty for something
even more precious: water
Despite finding itself at the center of the United States’ trade war
with China, the United Arab Emirates (UAE) is quickly establishing
itself as a hotbed for AI development and its aspirations could soon
extend to semiconductor manufacturing. …
The
second and final part of Chris’ personal history with Linux
date: 2024-09-23, from: Liam on Linux
This
is the second, and I very much fear the last, part of my friend Chris
"da Kiwi" Thomas’ recollections about PCs, Linux, and more.
I shared the
first part a few days ago.
Having found that I could not
purchase a suitable machine for my needs, I discovered the Asus ROG
Windows 7 model, in about 2004. It was able to have a RAM upgrade, which
I duly carried out, with 2 ×
8GB
SO-DIMMs, plus 4GB
of SDDR2 video RAM, and 2×500GB
WD 7200RPM hard drives. This was beginning to look more like a
computer.
Over the time I used it, I was able to replace the spinning-rust drives
with 500GB Samsung SSDs, and as larger sticks of RAM became available,
increased that to the limit as well. I ran that machine, which was
Tux-compatible [“Tux”
being Chris’s nickname for Linux. – Ed.],
throwing away the BSOD [Blue
Screen Of Death – that is, Microsoft Windows. – Ed.]
and putting one of the earliest versions of Ubuntu with GNOME on it. It
was computing heaven: everything just worked, and I dragged that poor
beast around the world with me.
While
in San Diego, I attended Scripps and lectured on cot death for three
months as a guest. Scripps at the time was involved with IBM in
developing a line-of-sight optical network, which worked brilliantly on
campus. It was confined to a couple of experimental computer labs, but
you had to keep your fingers off the mouse or keyboard, or your machine
would overload with web pages if browsing. I believe it never made it
into the world of computers for ordinary users, as the machines of the
day could not keep up.
There
was also talk around the labs of so-called quantum
computing,
which had been talked about since the 1960s on and off, but
some
developments appeared in 1968. The
whole idea sounds great – if
it could be made to work at a practicable user level. But in the back
of my mind, I had a suspicion that these ideas would just hinder
investment and development of what was now a standard of motherboards
and BIOS-based systems. Meanwhile, my Tux machine just did what was
asked of it.
Thank
you, Ian and Debra Murdoch,
who
developed the Debian version of Tux – on which Ubuntu was
based. I
dragged that poor Asus around the Americas, both North and South,
refurbishing it as I went. I found Fry’s, the major technology shop in
San Diego, where I could purchase portable hard drives and so on at a
fraction of the cost of elsewhere in the world.
Eventually,
I arrived in Canada, where I had a speaking engagement at Calgary
University – which also had a strong Tux club – and I spent some time
happily looking at a few other distros. Distrowatch had been founded
about 2001, which made it easy to keep up with Linux news, new versions
of Tux, and what system they were based on. Gentoo seemed to be
the
distro for those with the knowledge to compile and tweak every little
aspect of their software.
Arch
attracted me at times. But eventually, I always went back to Ubuntu –
until I learned of Ubuntu MATE.
The University had a pre-release copy of Ubuntu MATE 14.10, along with a
podcast from Alan Pope and Martin Wimpress, and before I could turn
around I had it on my Asus. It was simple, everything worked, and it
removed the horrors of GNOME 3.
I
flew happily back to New Zealand and my little country cottage.
Late
in 2015, my wife became very unwell after a shopping trip. Getting in
touch with some medical friends, they were concerned she’d had a heart
attack. This was near the mark: she had contracted a virus which had
destroyed a third of her heart muscle. It took her a few years to die,
and a miserable time it was for her and for us both. After the funeral,
I had rented out my house and bought a Toyota motorhome, and I began
traveling around the country. I ran my Asus through a solar panel hooked
up to an inverter, a system which worked well and kept the beast
going.
After
a couple of years, I decided to have a look around Australia. My
grandfather on my father’s side was Australian, and had fascinated us
with tales of the outback, where he worked as a drover in the 1930s and
’40s.
And
so, I moved to Perth, where my brother had been living since the
1950s.
There,
I discovered an amazing thing: a configurable laptop based on a
Clevo motherboard –
and not only that, their
factory was just up the road in Fremantle.
Hastily,
I logged on to their website, and in a state of disbelief, browsed
happily for hours at all the combinations I could put together. These
were all variations on a theme by Windows 7, and there were no listing
of ACPI records or other BIOS information.
I
looked at my battered old faithful, my many-times-rebuilt Asus, and
decided the time had come. I started building. Maximum RAM and video
RAM, latest nVidia card, two SSDs, their top-of-the-line WiFi and
Bluetooth chipsets, sound cards, etc. Then, I got it sent to New
Zealand, as I was due back the next day.
That
was the first of four Metabox machines I have built, and is still
running flawlessly using Ubuntu MATE.
My
next Metabox was described as a Windows 10 machine, but I knew that it
would run Tux beautifully – and so it did. A few tweaks around the ACPI
subsystem and it computed away merrily, with not a BSOD in sight. A
friend of mine who had popped in for a visit was so impressed with it
that he ordered one too, and that arrived about three months later. A
quick wipe of the hard drive (thank you, Gparted!), both these machines
are still running happily, with not a cloud on the horizon.
One,
I gave to my stepson about three months back, and he has taken it back
with him to the Philippines, where he reports it is running fine in the
tropical heat.
My
new Metabox arrived about six weeks ago, and I decided – just out of
curiosity – to leave Windows 11 on it. A most stupid decision, but as my
wife was running Windows 11 and had already blown it up once, needing a
full reset (which, to my surprise, worked), I proceeded to charge it for
the recommended 24 hours, and next day, switched it on. “Hello” it said,
in big white letters, and then the nonsense began… a torrent of unwanted
software proceeded to fill up one of my 8TB NVMe drives, culminating
after many reboots with a Chatbot, an AI “assistant”, and something
called “Co-pilot”.
“No!”
I cried, “not in a million years!” – and hastily plugging in my Ventoy
stick, I rebooted it into Gparted, and partitioned my hard drive for
Ubuntu MATE.
So
far, the beast seems most appreciative, and it hums along with just a
gentle puff of warm air out of the ports. I needed to do a little
tweaking, as the latest nVidia cards don’t seem to like Wayland as a
graphics server, and the addition to GRUB of acpi=off,
and another flawless computer is on the road.
Now,
if only I could persuade Metabox to move to a 128-bit system, and can
get delivery of that on the other side of the great divide, my future
will be in computer heaven.
Oh,
if you’re wondering what happened to the Asus? It is still on the
kitchen table in our house in the Philippines, in pieces, where I have
no doubt it is waiting for another rebuild!
NASA
Science Activation Program Wins Prestigious Award
date: 2024-09-23, from: NASA breaking news
The NASA Science Activation (SciAct) Program has been selected to
receive the American Geophysical Union (AGU) 2024 Excellence in Earth
and Space Science Education Award. This prestigious, annual award,
established in 1995, honors a mid-career or senior scientist team,
individual, or group that has demonstrated a sustained commitment to
broad, positive impact on Earth and […]
The NASA Ames Science Directorate recognizes the outstanding
contributions of (pictured left to right) Don Sullivan, Serena Trieu,
Emmett Quigley, and Zara Mirmalek. Their commitment to the NASA mission
represents the talent, camaraderie, and vision needed to explore this
world and beyond. Earth Science Star: Don Sullivan Don Sullivan enables
cutting-edge research in the Earth […]
Cards
Against Humanity deals SpaceX a $15M lawsuit over Texas turf tangle
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-24, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
Land purchased to save it from Trump’s border wall ’completely f*cked’
by ‘gravel, tractors, and space garbage’
Elon Musk is facing down the barrel of another multimillion-dollar suit,
this time from the makers of irreverent party game Cards Against
Humanity (CAH).…
World’s
First Ultra-Precise Nuclear Clock Is Within Reach After Major
Breakthrough, Researchers Say
date: 2024-09-23, from: Smithsonian Magazine
The technology, enabled by thorium atoms, could keep time more
accurately than atomic clocks and enable new discoveries about gravity,
gravitational waves and dark matter
FBI
data shows violent crime down for a second consecutive year
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
washington — Violent crime in the United States is down for a second
consecutive year, with law enforcement agencies reporting significant
declines in murder and rapes, according to a just-released report from
the FBI.
The FBI Crime in the Nation report released Monday found violent
crime, overall, fell by 3% from 2022 to 2023, with murder and
manslaughter rates dropping by 11.6% and rape down by more than 9%.
There were also smaller declines in the number of robberies and
aggravated assaults.
Additionally, property crimes, which include burglary, fell by an
estimated 2.4% year over year, though motor vehicle theft jumped by
12.6%.
FBI officials, briefing reporters on the report, described the drop
in the number of murders as notable, saying the 11.6% decline is the
largest recorded over the past 20 years.
Overall, the officials said the rate of all violent crimes in 2023
was 363.3 crimes per 100,000 inhabitants, down from a rate of 377.1
violent crimes per 100,000 inhabitants in 2022.
More than 16,000 U.S. state and local law enforcement agencies
contributed data for the report, including all agencies serving cities
with more than one million people.
The decrease in violent crimes across the U.S. continues a trend
dating back to 2021, when crime rates fell after a spike in murders in
2020, during the coronavirus pandemic.
The violent crime rate also remains well below a peak in rates during
the early 1990s.
Some crimes, though, have seen slight increases, including the number
of aggravated assaults with knives, cutting instruments or other
weapons.
The number of so-called “strong-arm” robberies – involving
intimidation or a threat of the use of force – rose by 3.2%.
Assaults on police officers also jumped to a 10-year high according
to the FBI report, including 60 officers murdered in the line of
duty.
The number of hate crimes and victims of hate crimes also increased
from 2022 to 2023, though FBI officials said the rise could have been
impacted by an increase in the number of law enforcement agencies
reporting hate crime data.
FBI officials declined to comment on whether the trends and the
overall decrease in violent crime from 2022 to 2023 have extended into
2024. But a report issued by the non-partisan Council on Criminal
Justice (CCJ) in July indicates the number of violent crimes continue to
fall.
That study, based on monthly crime rates for dozens of major U.S.
cities found murder rates fell by 13% in the first half of 2024 compared
to the first six months of 2023. Assaults, assaults with guns and
carjacking also fell.
But while the CCJ report called the overall trends encouraging, it
noted, “many cities are still experiencing disturbingly high leve
Valve
could be planning to bring Windows gaming to Linux systems with ARM
chips
date: 2024-09-23, from: Liliputing
Valve’s Proton software makes it possible to play many Windows PC games
on computers running Linux-based operating system, including Valve’s own
Steam Deck handheld gaming PC. So far Proton has only been available for
PCs with Intel or AMD processors based on x86_64 architecture, but it
looks like Valve may be planning to add support […]
Telegram
Changes Policy, Says It Will Provide User Data to Authorities
date: 2024-09-23, from: 404 Media Group
In an update to its privacy policy, Telegram says it will now share
IP addresses and phone numbers to authorities in response to valid
orders. The change is a dramatic switch for the social network app,
which has become a hotbed for criminals.
Intel:
Trouble draws private investors like vultures to a wounded giant
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-24, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
Potential $5B cash injection from Apollo as Qualcomm sniffs around
Comment Apollo Global Management has reportedly
proposed a $5 billion investment in Intel. Rumors are swirling about the
chip giant exploring a potential deal with the US-based asset management
heavyweight, but nothing is locked in yet.…
Zotac
ZBOX MI6x3 mini PCs stuff 65 watt processors into compact designs
date: 2024-09-23, from: Liliputing
The Zotac ZBOX MI673 is a desktop computer that packs a lot of
processing power into a compact design. It squeezes 65-watt Intel Core
i7-14700 20-core, 28-thread processor based on Intel’s Raptor Lake
Refresh architecture into a chassis that measures 204 x 129 x 68mm
(8.03″ x 5.08″ x 2.68″) and has a volume of […]
So how’s
Microsoft’s Secure Future Initiative going?
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
34,000 engineers pledged to the cause, but no word on exec pay
Microsoft took a victory lap today, touting the 34,000 full-time
engineers it has dedicated to its Secure Future Initiative (SFI) since
it launched almost a year ago and making public its first progress
report on efforts to improve security in its products and services.…
Kamala Harris is promising to release new details this week about
economic policies she would pursue if elected president. But behind
closed doors, she’s facing pressure to loosen the Biden administration’s
crackdown on corporate consolidation. The foot soldier in that effort
has been Federal Trade Commission Chair Lina Khan, and some big-money
Democratic donors have called for her replacement. Also: CFO gloom, and
housing inventory’s impact on home prices.
Musk
dreams of launching five Starships to Mars in two years
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
Just like robotaxis, actual full self-driving, etc etc in just a few
years
We regret to inform you that Elon Musk has been using his social media
orifice, X, to make some impressively outlandish claims once again. This
time, the billionaire stated that SpaceX plans to launch a bunch of
uncrewed Starships to Mars “in two years.”…
Biden
administration seeks to ban Chinese, Russian tech in most US
vehicles
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
New York — The U.S. Commerce Department said Monday it’s seeking a
ban on the sale of connected and autonomous vehicles in the U.S. that
are equipped with Chinese and Russian software and hardware with the
stated goal of protecting national security and U.S. drivers.
While there is minimal Chinese and Russian software deployed in the
U.S, the issue is more complicated for hardware. That’s why Commerce
officials said the prohibitions on the software would take effect for
the 2027 model year and the prohibitions on hardware would take effect
for the model year of 2030, or Jan. 1, 2029, for units without a model
year.
The measure announced Monday is proactive but critical, the agency
said, given that all the bells and whistles in cars like microphones,
cameras, GPS tracking and Bluetooth technology could make Americans more
vulnerable to bad actors and potentially expose personal information,
from the home address of drivers, to where their children go to
school.
In extreme situations, a foreign adversary could shut down or take
simultaneous control of multiple vehicles operating in the United
States, causing crashes and blocking roads, U.S. Secretary of Commerce
Gina Raimondo told reporters on a call Sunday.
“This is not about trade or economic advantage,” Raimondo said. “This
is a strictly national security action. The good news is right now, we
don’t have many Chinese or Russian cars on our road.”
But Raimondo said Europe and other regions in the world where Chinese
vehicles have become commonplace very quickly should serve as “a
cautionary tale” for the U.S.
Security concerns around the extensive software-driven functions in
Chinese vehicles have arisen in Europe, where Chinese electric cars have
rapidly gained market share.
“Who controls these data flows and software updates is a far from
trivial question, the answers to which encroach on matters of national
security, cybersecurity, and individual privacy,” Janka Oertel, director
of the Asia program at the European Council on Foreign Relations, wrote
on the council’s website.
Vehicles are now “mobility platforms” that monitor driver and
passenger behavior and track their surroundings.
A senior administration official said that it is clear from terms of
service contracts included with the technology that data from vehicles
ends up in China.
Raimondo said that the U.S. won’t wait until its roads are populated
with Chinese or Russian cars.
“We’re issuing a proposed rule to address these new national security
threats before suppliers, automakers and car components linked to China
or Russia become commonplace and widespread in the U.S. automotive
sector,” Raimondo said.
It is difficult to know when China could reach that level of
saturation, a senior administration official said, but the Commerce
Department says China hopes to enter the U.S. market and several Chinese
companies have already announced plans to enter the automotive software
space.
The Commerce Department added Russia to the regulations since the
country is trying to “breathe new life into its auto industry,” senior
administration officials said on the call.
The proposed rule would prohibit the import and sale of vehicles with
Russia and China-manufactured software and hardware that would allow the
vehicle to communicate externally through Bluetooth, cellular, satellite
or Wi-Fi modules. It would also prohibit the sale or import of software
components made in Russia or the People’s Republic of China that
collectively allow a highly autonomous vehicle to operate without a
driver behind the wheel. The ban would include vehicles made in the U.S.
using Chinese and Russian technology.
The proposed rule would apply to all vehicles, but would exclude
those not used on public roads, such as agricultural or mining
vehicles.
U.S. automakers said they share the government’s national security
goal, but at present there is little connected vehicle hardware or
software coming to the U.S. supply chain from China.
Yet the Alliance for Automotive Innovation, a large industry group,
said the new rules will make some automakers scramble for new parts
suppliers. “You can’t just flip a switch and change the world’s most
complex supply chain overnight,” John Bozzella, the alliance’s CEO, said
in a statement.
The lead time in the new rules will be long enough for some
automakers to make the changes, “but may be too short for others,”
Bozzella said.
Commerce officials met with all the major auto companies around the
world while it drafted the proposed rule to better understand supply
chain networks, according to senior administration officials, and also
met with a variety of industry associations.
The Commerce Department is inviting public comments, which are due 30
days after publication of a rule before it’s finalized. That should
happen by the end of the Biden Administration.
The new rule follows steps taken earlier this month by the Biden
administration to crack down on cheap products sold out of China,
including electric vehicles, expanding a push to reduce U.S. dependence
on Beijing and bolster homegrown industry.
You
Can Climb Aboard a Massive Reproduction of a 17th-Century Spanish
Galleon That’s Sailing Around the World
date: 2024-09-23, from: Smithsonian Magazine
The Galeón Andalucía, which is now making its way to London, was
designed to resemble the armed merchant vessels manufactured by Spain
and Portugal between the 16th and 18th centuries
Welcome to Decarbonize Your Life, Heatmap’s special
report that aims to help you make decisions in your own life that are
better for the climate, better for you, and better for the world we all
live in.
This is our attempt, in other words, to assist you in living something
like a normal life while also making progress in the fight against
climate change. That means making smarter and more informed
decisions about how climate change affects your life — and
about how your life affects climate change. The point is not what you
shouldn’t do (although there is some of that). It’s about what you
should do to exert the most leverage on the global
economic system and, hopefully, nudge things toward decarbonization just
a little bit faster.
A better way to think about individual action
Isn’t that a little silly? At this point, everyone knows that individual
action won’t solve climate change. Didn’t BP
invent
the term “carbon footprint” in 2004 so as to distract from fossil fuel
companies’ guilt and greed?
As the journalist Rachel Cohen
has
observed, around the 2010s it became unpopular to believe that
individual action could help address any major social
problem. And sure, it’s true that only collective action — achieved
through something like the political system — will let us eventually
manage climate change at the global level.
But at Heatmap, we believe that that isn’t quite the whole story. Just
because politics and collective action are the only things that can
solve climate change doesn’t mean they are the only
things that can do something about climate change.
What’s more, the problem of carbon emissions — and the stickiness of
fossil fuels — emerges from a tight knot of chemical efficiency,
political power, and logistical lock-in. If individual consumers can pry
at that knot, can make it a little easier to imagine a post-fossil
energy system, then they can realize a zero-carbon world a little
sooner.
High-leverage actions, not just low emissions
That way of thinking about climate change, however, requires us to think
somewhat differently about how to take individual action in the first
place. Often, when you read about how to fight climate change as a
person or family, the advice assumes that you want to reduce your
responsibility for climate change. You’re advised to
turn down the thermostat in the winter (or turn it up in the summer),
shut off the lights when you leave the room, and compost.
This advice assumes that the reader’s goal is to personally exculpate
themselves or their family from global warming — and to assuage their
own guilt for participating in a polluting system.
At its most sophisticated, this advice can be valuable insofar as it can
help you cut your marginal carbon emissions. The most precise versions
of these recommendations often speak in terms of emissions abatement:
They might advise, say, that switching to a plant-based diet
could
save 0.8 tons of carbon emissions a year.
You’ll see some of that kind of recommendation in this project: It’s a
valid way to think about individual actions, and it works especially
well in some domains, such as food. But it’s not, in our view, the best
way of thinking about individual action to fight climate change.
That’s because it is essentially impossible to exculpate yourself from
climate change. I don’t mean that in a fatalistic way. It’s just a fact.
Simply by living in the year 2024, your life is enmeshed in a sprawling
economic network that devours fossil fuels as its great lifestyle
subsidy. Look out the nearest window — do you see cars, asphalt, power
lines, sidewalks, buildings? Do you see steel-framed structures or a
plane cutting its way across the sky? None of those things could exist
without fossil fuels. And unless you’re looking into wild and unkempt
wilderness (if so, lucky you!), then even the plants
and grass out your window, the food in your
pantry, grew up on fertilizer that was
manufactured
with fossil fuels. If you live in a rich or middle-income
country, buy goods and clothes, eat food, use electricity, or even
leave your house by any means other than walking, then
you are responsible, to some degree, for climate change.
Trying to zero out your personal carbon footprint, in other words, is a
fool’s errand. What you can do, however, is maximize
the degree to which you’re building a new, post-fossil-fuel world.
To be clear, I don’t mean that in a woo-woo way. I’m not saying you
should imagine a kumbaya world where we all hold hands and take public
transit to the nearest all-volunteer renewable-powered co-op. I’m saying
that there are real, already existing products and technologies that
must become a bigger part of today’s built environment if we are to have
any hope of solving climate change. What you can do — and what we
recommend in this guide — is help take those technologies from the
fringes into the center of everyday life. If you want to decarbonize the
whole planet, you should think about decarbonizing your life.
What we have tried to do here is not focus on how to reduce your
marginal emissions — the number of tons that you,
personally, are responsible for pumping into the environment. Instead,
we’re trying to help you understand how to focus on
high-leverage actions — the kinds of choices that can
drive change throughout the energy system. That’s why in this guide
you’ll find advice on how to switch to an EV, buy zero-carbon
electricity, make your home more energy-efficient, and electrify your
appliances. We also recommend these in the order that we think they’ll
be most effective — to learn more about how we reached that ranking,
read about our methodology here.
The kind of shifts we advise in this guide, to be clear, won’t solve
climate change on their own. But they will help you alter the systems in
which you’re enmeshed, and they’ll make you a smarter climate citizen.
What about flying?
Flying is maybe the trickiest climate question. Although it makes up a
relatively small share of both global and U.S. emissions — about 2% each
— it is among the most climate-polluting activities many Americans will
do on a minute-to-minute basis. (Although if you live in a dense and
walkable city like New York, San Francisco, or Washington, D.C., but
travel frequently, then flying may make up a large share of your
emissions.) It is probably also the most difficult “everyday” activity
to decarbonize.
There is no practical substitute for long-distance or transcontinental
flying. Today,
only
one ocean liner regularly makes the journey from New York to
London, and it departs from each city only once a month. And unless you
hitch a ride on a container ship, there is literally no slow boat to
China. If you want to travel abroad, then you must fly. Even within the
United States, there is essentially no substitute for
long-distance flights. Europeans and East Asians can rely on superior
long-distance rail systems, but America’s extensive road network,
unusually
high infrastructure costs, sclerotic rail agency, and chronic
lack of transit investment mean that Americans are stuck with flying or
driving.
Commercial aviation is a miracle of the modern world: It facilitates a
level of global connectedness and international communication that
earlier generations could only dream of. Affordable and long-distance
passenger flight is, in many ways, the crowning achievement of our
highly technical society, and it allows for the amount of global
immigration and mass tourism that defines the modern world. (If you have
a private jet, of course, stop using it. Because so few people take each
flight, private jets are uniquely destructive for the climate, emitting
every
seven hours what the average American emits all
year.)
Fossil fuels’ weight and energy density is ideal for flying. There is,
right now, no drop-in replacement for jet fuel that is being produced at
scale. So while we have some advice about how to mitigate your climate
pollution from flying, it won’t make up a large part of this guide.
Reduce the number of flights you take if you can, sure, and take more
direct flights if possible. But the truth is that for now, there are
smarter and more high-leverage decisions that you can make.
Only decarbonization can get us closer to tackling climate change once
and for all. Our belief at Heatmap is that if you care about climate
change, then decarbonization — and not mere emissions reductions —
should be your guiding star. If you want to follow that star, then read
on.
There is no dearth of advice on the internet about how to lower your
personal carbon emissions, but if we had found any of it completely
satisfying, we wouldn’t have embarked on this project in the first
place.
Our goal with Decarbonize Your Life is to draw your attention to two
things — the relative emissions benefits of different actions, as well
as the relative structural benefits. (You’ll find everything you need to
know about the project
here.)
For the first, we needed some help. So we shared our vision with
WattTime, a nonprofit that builds data-driven tools to help people,
companies, and policymakers figure out how to reduce emissions, and
lucky for us, they were excited to support the project.
“So many people out there feel helpless when it comes to addressing the
climate crisis, but we believe that anyone, anywhere should have the
tools and information they need to make a difference,” Henry Richardson,
a senior analyst at WattTime, told me as we were wrapping up this
project. “So we love the idea of helping average consumers understand
which actions actually available to them can meaningfully contribute to
reducing climate pollution. We want to help people prioritize those
higher-impact activities that can mitigate climate change faster.”
WattTime’s claim to fame is building an API that calculates the
emissions impact of using the grid at a given time and place. Users can
then shift their energy consumption to times when the grid is cleaner or
to build renewables in places where they will reduce emissions the most.
In an ideal world, we would have taken a similar time- and place-based
approach in calculating the emissions savings of each energy-related
action on our list. Switching to an EV if you live somewhere with very
clean power will reduce emissions more than if you live somewhere with
lots of coal plants, and likewise, getting rooftop solar if you live
somewhere with coal-fired electricity is more effective than in areas
with a cleaner grid. But when we started to game it out, we realized
that level of
exactitude
would be, if not exactly impossible, certainly insanity-inducing.
Instead, WattTime helped us calculate the effect of each action if it
was undertaken by an “average American household” — that is, one that
consumes an
average
amount of electricity per year, drives an
average
number of miles in an
average
car per year, uses an
average
amount of energy for space heating, et cetera. WattTime also
pulled data from publicly available sources like the Environmental
Protection Agency, the Department of Energy, and the Energy Information
Administration, to estimate the baseline emissions and savings of a
given action. We ultimately made two calculations for each action to
account for two different ways of estimating the emissions from using
the electric grid:
One that shows the emissions impact of using the electric grid today,
based on WattTime’s data.
One that shows the emissions impact of using the grid over the next
several decades as it grows cleaner, based on
Cambium,
a dataset developed by the National Renewable Energy Lab.
While the first method gives us a picture of how much good each action
can do in an immediate sense, the second gives us a picture of how much
good it can do over time. For example, using the first method, buying
clean power came out on top, with rooftop solar offering the potential
to cut CO2 by about 5.7 metric tons per year, while switching to an
electric vehicle would cut about 3 metric tons per year. But using the
second method, car-related actions won out, showing EVs cutting CO2 by
4.6 metric tons per year, and rooftop solar cutting 1.4 metric tons per
year. The truth is probably somewhere in the middle.
To calculate the emissions savings from dietary changes and food waste
management, we turned to two more partners: HowGood, a data platform for
food system lifecycle analysis, and ReFED, which collects similar data
for food waste. As with energy, we used federal data from the U.S.
Department of Agriculture to estimate the
average
American diet and ReFED’s estimates for the
average
American food waste mix (though note that those are for an
individual, not for a household). From there, WattTime helped us
determine that, for instance, just by replacing the beef in your diet
with chicken, you could save nearly 2.5 metric tons of emissions each
year — almost as much as you could save by going vegan.
Because we used averages and sought to simplify our list with actions
like “electrify your space heating system,” rather than estimating the
impact of every permutation like “switch from a propane furnace in
Colorado with X efficiency to a cold climate heat pump with Y
efficiency,” our estimates of emissions reductions are rough
approximations and not reflective of real-world scenarios.
You’ll see that while these calculations certainly informed our ranking,
they were not the sole metric we used to arrange this list. A
quantitative analysis alone could not answer our question about the most
“high-leverage” actions, so we used our reporting and expertise as
climate journalists to fill in that last, crucial gap. Car-related
actions and rooftop solar were neck-and-neck by the numbers, but we are
confident that getting an EV (if you need to have a car) is more
unambiguously necessary for the energy transition than
getting rooftop solar. Similarly, while eating less meat can hugely
reduce the carbon tied to an individual’s diet, the
ripple effect it has on agricultural carbon emissions is less direct and
harder to parse than the effect you can have by electrifying all your
appliances and shutting down your natural gas account.
HEATMAP’S NUMBERS:
If you need a car, get an EV
Getting an EV:
WattTime — 2.9 mtCO2/yr Cambium — 4.5 mtCO2/yr
Structural benefits: Destroying demand for oil;
increasing demand for charging stations; improving local air quality and
chipping away at the social license for operating an internal combustion
engine.
Go zero-carbon power at home
Getting rooftop solar:
WattTime — 5.7 mtCO2/yr Cambium — 1.4 mtCO2/yr
Structural benefits: Get clean energy on the grid
faster than utility-scale projects; influence neighbors; reduce electric
demand in your neighborhood; reduce strain on grid if paired with a
battery and part of a “virtual power plant”
Give your home an energy efficient renovation
Air-sealing and insulation:
WattTime — 1.2 mtCO2/yr
Structural benefits: Reduce strain on grid and need for
grid investment; level out electricity demand to avoid the need to
activate dirty “peaker” gas plants; prepare your home for cheaper, more
even, and efficient heating and cooling
Electrify your appliances
Switching to a heat pump for
space heating:
WattTime — 1.4 mtCO2/yr Cambium — 1.6 mtCO2/yr
Switching from a gas stove to an induction
stove:
WattTime — Roughly even Cambium — 0.1 mtCO/yr
Switching to a heat pump for water
heating:
WattTime — 0.8 mtCO2/yr Cambium — 1.6 mtCO2/yr
Switching from a natural gas-powered dryer to a heat pump
dryer:
WattTime — Roughly even Cambium — 0.1 mtCO/yr
Structural benefits: Increase demand for and reduce
price of electric and efficient appliances; build a case for policies
that wind down fossil fuel use; if fully electrifying, sends signal to
downsize gas system.
Drive less, bike (or walk or scoot) more
Getting rid of your car:
WattTime — 5.17 mtCO/yr
Structural benefits: Supporting public transit and bike
lanes, enabling others to use their cars less, too.
Eat less meat and reduce food waste
Switching from an omnivorous to a vegetarian
diet:
WattTime and HowGood — 2.8 mtCO2/yr
Switching from an omnivorous to a vegan
diet:
WattTime and HowGood — 2.9 mtCO2/yr
Replacing the beef in an omnivorous diet with chicken:
WattTime and HowGood — 2.5 mtCO2/yr
Structural benefits: Reduce demand for high-emitting
food products, which has the double-pump benefit of reducing the amount
of land required to cultivate high-emitting products; if replacing beef
with chicken, increase demand for more carbon-efficient proteins; add to
the business case for developing efficient plant-based proteins.
Cutting food waste in half:
WattTime and ReFED — more than 0.1 mtCO2/yr
Structural benefits: Reduce demand across the food
system; send less food waste to landfill, which helps reduce methane
emissions.
Composting all food waste:
WattTime and ReFED — 0.03 mtCO2/yr
Structural benefits: Encourages the build-out of
municipal composting programs; encourages responsible farming practices
by lowering the cost of compost; reduces demand for nitrogen-based
fertilizer.
There is no dearth of advice on the internet about how to lower your
personal carbon emissions, but if we had found any of it completely
satisfying, we wouldn’t have embarked on this project in the first
place.
Our goal with Decarbonize Your Life is to draw your attention to two
things — the relative emissions benefits of different actions, as well
as the relative structural benefits. (You’ll find everything you need to
know about the project
here.)
For the first, we needed some help. So we shared our vision with
WattTime, a nonprofit that builds data-driven tools to help people,
companies, and policymakers figure out how to reduce emissions, and
lucky for us, they were excited to support the project.
“So many people out there feel helpless when it comes to addressing the
climate crisis, but we believe that anyone, anywhere should have the
tools and information they need to make a difference,” Henry Richardson,
a senior analyst at WattTime, told me as we were wrapping up this
project. “So we love the idea of helping average consumers understand
which actions actually available to them can meaningfully contribute to
reducing climate pollution. We want to help people prioritize those
higher-impact activities that can mitigate climate change faster.”
WattTime’s claim to fame is building an API that calculates the
emissions impact of using the grid at a given time and place. Users can
then shift their energy consumption to times when the grid is cleaner or
to build renewables in places where they will reduce emissions the most.
In an ideal world, we would have taken a similar time- and place-based
approach in calculating the emissions savings of each energy-related
action on our list. Switching to an EV if you live somewhere with very
clean power will reduce emissions more than if you live somewhere with
lots of coal plants, and likewise, getting rooftop solar if you live
somewhere with coal-fired electricity is more effective than in areas
with a cleaner grid. But when we started to game it out, we realized
that level of
exactitude
would be, if not exactly impossible, certainly insanity-inducing.
Instead, WattTime helped us calculate the effect of each action if it
was undertaken by an “average American household” — that is, one that
consumes an
average
amount of electricity per year, drives an
average
number of miles in an
average
car per year, uses an
average
amount of energy for space heating, et cetera. WattTime also
pulled data from publicly available sources like the Environmental
Protection Agency, the Department of Energy, and the Energy Information
Administration, to estimate the baseline emissions and savings of a
given action. We ultimately made two calculations for each action to
account for two different ways of estimating the emissions from using
the electric grid:
One that shows the emissions impact of using the electric grid today,
based on WattTime’s data.
One that shows the emissions impact of using the grid over the next
several decades as it grows cleaner, based on
Cambium,
a dataset developed by the National Renewable Energy Lab.
While the first method gives us a picture of how much good each action
can do in an immediate sense, the second gives us a picture of how much
good it can do over time. For example, using the first method, buying
clean power came out on top, with rooftop solar offering the potential
to cut CO2 by about 5.7 metric tons per year, while switching to an
electric vehicle would cut about 3 metric tons per year. But using the
second method, car-related actions won out, showing EVs cutting CO2 by
4.6 metric tons per year, and rooftop solar cutting 1.4 metric tons per
year. The truth is probably somewhere in the middle.
To calculate the emissions savings from dietary changes and food waste
management, we turned to two more partners: HowGood, a data platform for
food system lifecycle analysis, and ReFED, which collects similar data
for food waste. As with energy, we used federal data from the U.S.
Department of Agriculture to estimate the
average
American diet and ReFED’s estimates for the
average
American food waste mix (though note that those are for an
individual, not for a household). From there, WattTime helped us
determine that, for instance, just by replacing the beef in your diet
with chicken, you could save nearly 2.5 metric tons of emissions each
year — almost as much as you could save by going vegan.
Because we used averages and sought to simplify our list with actions
like “electrify your space heating system,” rather than estimating the
impact of every permutation like “switch from a propane furnace in
Colorado with X efficiency to a cold climate heat pump with Y
efficiency,” our estimates of emissions reductions are rough
approximations and not reflective of real-world scenarios.
You’ll see that while these calculations certainly informed our ranking,
they were not the sole metric we used to arrange this list. A
quantitative analysis alone could not answer our question about the most
“high-leverage” actions, so we used our reporting and expertise as
climate journalists to fill in that last, crucial gap. Car-related
actions and rooftop solar were neck-and-neck by the numbers, but we are
confident that getting an EV (if you need to have a car) is more
unambiguously necessary for the energy transition than
getting rooftop solar. Similarly, while eating less meat can hugely
reduce the carbon tied to an individual’s diet, the
ripple effect it has on agricultural carbon emissions is less direct and
harder to parse than the effect you can have by electrifying all your
appliances and shutting down your natural gas account.
HEATMAP’S NUMBERS:
If you need a car, get an EV
Getting an EV:
WattTime — 2.9 mtCO2/yr Cambium — 4.5 mtCO2/yr
Structural benefits: Destroying demand for oil;
increasing demand for charging stations; improving local air quality and
chipping away at the social license for operating an internal combustion
engine.
Go zero-carbon power at home
Getting rooftop solar:
WattTime — 5.7 mtCO2/yr Cambium — 1.4 mtCO2/yr
Structural benefits: Get clean energy on the grid
faster than utility-scale projects; influence neighbors; reduce electric
demand in your neighborhood; reduce strain on grid if paired with a
battery and part of a “virtual power plant”
Give your home an energy efficient renovation
Air-sealing and insulation:
WattTime — 1.2 mtCO2/yr
Structural benefits: Reduce strain on grid and need for
grid investment; level out electricity demand to avoid the need to
activate dirty “peaker” gas plants; prepare your home for cheaper, more
even, and efficient heating and cooling
Electrify your appliances
Switching to a heat pump for
space heating:
WattTime — 1.4 mtCO2/yr Cambium — 1.6 mtCO2/yr
Switching from a gas stove to an induction
stove:
WattTime — Roughly even Cambium — 0.1 mtCO/yr
Switching to a heat pump for water
heating:
WattTime — 0.8 mtCO2/yr Cambium — 1.6 mtCO2/yr
Switching from a natural gas-powered dryer to a heat pump
dryer:
WattTime — Roughly even Cambium — 0.1 mtCO/yr
Structural benefits: Increase demand for and reduce
price of electric and efficient appliances; build a case for policies
that wind down fossil fuel use; if fully electrifying, sends signal to
downsize gas system.
Drive less, bike (or walk or scoot) more
Getting rid of your car:
WattTime — 5.17 mtCO/yr
Structural benefits: Supporting public transit and bike
lanes, enabling others to use their cars less, too.
Eat less meat and reduce food waste
Switching from an omnivorous to a vegetarian
diet:
WattTime and HowGood — 2.8 mtCO2/yr
Switching from an omnivorous to a vegan
diet:
WattTime and HowGood — 2.9 mtCO2/yr
Replacing the beef in an omnivorous diet with chicken:
WattTime and HowGood — 2.5 mtCO2/yr
Structural benefits: Reduce demand for high-emitting
food products, which has the double-pump benefit of reducing the amount
of land required to cultivate high-emitting products; if replacing beef
with chicken, increase demand for more carbon-efficient proteins; add to
the business case for developing efficient plant-based proteins.
Cutting food waste in half:
WattTime and ReFED — more than 0.1 mtCO2/yr
Structural benefits: Reduce demand across the food
system; send less food waste to landfill, which helps reduce methane
emissions.
Composting all food waste:
WattTime and ReFED — 0.03 mtCO2/yr
Structural benefits: Encourages the build-out of
municipal composting programs; encourages responsible farming practices
by lowering the cost of compost; reduces demand for nitrogen-based
fertilizer.
Why
Switching to an EV Matters So Much for the Climate
date: 2024-09-23, from: Heatmap News
Electric vehicles? Really?
Is it really true that Heatmap looked at every way
that you can decarbonize your life, meditated upon the politics, did the
math, and concluded … that you should buy an EV? Are EVs really
that important to fighting climate change?
You’ll find more thorough answers to all those questions throughout
Decarbonize Your Life, but the short answer is: Yes. If you really need
a car, then switching from a gas car to an electric vehicle (or at least
a plug-in hybrid) is the most important step you can take to combat
climate change. And it’s not only good for your personal carbon
footprint, it’s good for the entire energy system.
Here is why we make that recommendation — and why you should trust us:
Electric vehicles produce significantly less climate pollution than
internal combustion vehicles
The best reason to use an electric vehicle is the most straightforward
one: Driving an EV produces fewer greenhouse gases than driving a
gasoline- or diesel-burning car. The Department of Energy
estimates
that the average EV operating in the U.S. produces 2,727 pounds of
carbon dioxide pollution each year, while the average gasoline-burning
car emits 12,594 pounds of carbon dioxide. Even a conventional hybrid
vehicle — like a Toyota Prius — emits 6,800 pounds of CO2, or roughly
2.5 times as much as an EV.
These gains hold almost regardless of how you analyze the question. Even
in states where coal makes up a large share of the power grid — such as
West Virginia, Wyoming, or Missouri — EVs produce half as much CO2 as
gasoline vehicles, according to the DOE. That’s because EVs are
much
more energy efficiency than internal combustion vehicles. So
even though coal is a dirtier energy source than gasoline or diesel, EVs
need to far less of it (in the form of electricity) to drive an
additional mile.
EVs retain this carbon advantage even when you take into account their
full “lifecycle” emissions — the cost of mining minerals, refining them,
building a battery, and shipping a vehicle to its final destination.
Across the full lifetime of a vehicle, EVs will release 57% to 68% less
climate pollution than internal-combustion cars in the United States,
according to
a
landmark analysis from the International Council on Clean
Transportation. (As the publication Carbon Brief
has
shown, many analyses of EVs versus gas cars fail to take into
account the full lifecycle emissions of the fossil-fuel system: the
carbon pollution produced by extracting, refining, and transporting a
gallon of gasoline.)
The carbon advantage of an EV improves the more you drive, and they are
likely to improve over time
Even if you only care about emissions math, two more important reasons
justify switching to an EV.
First, when you switch to an EV, you cut down enormously on the
marginal environmental cost of driving an additional
mile. Most of an EV’s environmental harm is “front-loaded” in its
lifetime; that is, it is associated with the cost of producing and
selling that vehicle. (Most electronics, including smartphones and
laptops, have a similarly front-loaded carbon cost.)
But the carbon emissions of driving an additional mile are relatively
low. In other words, converting an additional kilowatt of electricity
into a mile on the road is relatively benign for the climate.
That’s not the case for an internal combustion vehicle. In a
conventional gasoline- or diesel-powered car, every additional mile you
drive requires you to burn more fossil fuels.
Don’t overthink it: There is no way to operate a
gasoline or diesel car without burning more fossil fuels. Conventional
ICE cars are machines that turn fossil fuels into (1) miles on the road
and (2) greenhouse gas pollution. This means that — importantly — using
an internal combustion vehicle, or even a conventional hybrid vehicle,
will never be climate-friendly.
That’s why the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change
has
concluded that switching to an electrified transportation system
— in other words, switching from gas cars to EVs — is “likely crucial”
for cutting climate pollution and meeting the Paris Agreement goals. As
the International Council on Clean Transportation
concluded
recently, “There is no realistic pathway for deep decarbonization of
combustion engine vehicles.”
This calculus is likely to improve over time. Over the past decade, the
U.S. power grid’s climate pollution has plunged while emissions from the
transportation sector have slightly risen; we anticipate that, over the
next decade, the U.S. power grid’s greenhouse gas emissions are likely
to decline at least moderately. Energy experts also expect more
renewables to get built, and that natural gas will continue to drive
coal off of the grid. These changes mean that the per-mile cost of
driving an EV will likely fall. (If you’re in the market for an EV,
Heatmap is
here
to guide you.)
Switching to an EV helps ramp up an important supply chain
When you switch to an EV, you do something else, too — something that
may sound self-evident but is actually quite important: You increase
demand for EVs and for the EV ecosystem.
To be painfully direct about why this is important, this means that you
stop spending so much money into the gasoline-powered driving system —
the network of car dealers, gas stations, and oil companies that subsist
on fossil fuels — and begin paying for products and services from the
car dealerships, charging stations, and automakers who have invested in
the new, low-carbon future.
This is more important than it may seem at first. In the United States,
automakers have struggled to ramp up their EV production in part because
consumers haven’t been buying their EVs. EVs are a manufactured good,
and the world is betting on their continued technological improvement.
The more EVs get made at a company or industry level, the cheaper they
should get.When you buy an EV, you prime the pump for further
improvements in that manufacturing chain.
Your actions are unusually important because if anything is going to
drive the EV transition in the United States, it’s most likely to be
consumer demand.
Under the Biden administration, the Environmental Protection Agency has
adopted rules that could make EVs more than half of all new cars sold by
2032. But those rules are somewhat flexible — automakers could also meet
them by selling a lot of conventional and plug-in hybrids — and they are
under legal threat. If Donald Trump wins this year’s presidential
election, then he will
almost
certainly roll them back, much as
hereversed the Obama administration’s less ambitious car rules.
And even if Kamala Harris wins, then the zealously conservative Supreme
Court could easily throw out the rules.
Under most future scenarios, in other words, American consumers will
have considerable power over how rapidly the country switches to
electric vehicles. Even in a world where the federal government keeps
subsidizing EV manufacturing and offers a $7,500 tax credit for EV
buyers, the country’s transition to EVs will still depend on ordinary
American families deciding to make a change and buy the cars.
So if you want to decarbonize your life, switching to an EV — provided
that you drive enough for it to make sense — is one of the most
important steps that you can take.
When you switch to an electric vehicle, you are doing several things.
First, you are cutting off a source of demand for the oil industry.
Second, you are creating a new source of demand for the EV industry.
Third, you are generating new demand for the companies and
infrastructure — such as charging stations — that will be needed for the
entire transition.
Buying an EV is a climate decision that makes sense if you want to cut
your carbon footprint and if you want to change the
American energy system. That’s why it’s Heatmap’s No. 1 recommendation
for how to decarbonize your life.
Why
Switching to an EV Matters So Much for the Climate
date: 2024-09-23, from: Heatmap News
Electric vehicles? Really?
Is it really true that Heatmap looked at every way
that you can decarbonize your life, meditated upon the politics, did the
math, and concluded … that you should buy an EV? Are EVs really
that important to fighting climate change?
You’ll find more thorough answers to all those questions throughout
Decarbonize Your Life (plus our
guide
to buying an EV), but the short answer is: Yes. If you really need a
car, then switching from a gas car to an electric vehicle (or at least a
plug-in hybrid) is the most important step you can take to combat
climate change. And it’s not only good for your personal carbon
footprint, it’s good for the entire energy system.
Here is why we make that recommendation — and why you should trust us:
Electric vehicles produce significantly less climate pollution than
internal combustion vehicles
The best reason to use an electric vehicle is the most straightforward
one: Driving an EV produces fewer greenhouse gases than driving a
gasoline- or diesel-burning car. The Department of Energy
estimates
that the average EV operating in the U.S. produces 2,727 pounds of
carbon dioxide pollution each year, while the average gasoline-burning
car emits 12,594 pounds of carbon dioxide. Even a conventional hybrid
vehicle — like a Toyota Prius — emits 6,800 pounds of CO2, or roughly
2.5 times as much as an EV.
These gains hold almost regardless of how you analyze the question. Even
in states where coal makes up a large share of the power grid — such as
West Virginia, Wyoming, or Missouri — EVs produce half as much CO2 as
gasoline vehicles, according to the DOE. That’s because EVs are
much
more energy efficiency than internal combustion vehicles. So
even though coal is a dirtier energy source than gasoline or diesel, EVs
need to far less of it (in the form of electricity) to drive an
additional mile.
EVs retain this carbon advantage even when you take into account their
full “lifecycle” emissions — the cost of mining minerals, refining them,
building a battery, and shipping a vehicle to its final destination.
Across the full lifetime of a vehicle, EVs will release 57% to 68% less
climate pollution than internal-combustion cars in the United States,
according to
a
landmark analysis from the International Council on Clean
Transportation. (As the publication Carbon Brief
has
shown, many analyses of EVs versus gas cars fail to take into
account the full lifecycle emissions of the fossil-fuel system: the
carbon pollution produced by extracting, refining, and transporting a
gallon of gasoline.)
The carbon advantage of an EV improves the more you drive, and they are
likely to improve over time
Even if you only care about emissions math, two more important reasons
justify switching to an EV.
First, when you switch to an EV, you cut down enormously on the
marginal environmental cost of driving an additional
mile. Most of an EV’s environmental harm is “front-loaded” in its
lifetime; that is, it is associated with the cost of producing and
selling that vehicle. (Most electronics, including smartphones and
laptops, have a similarly front-loaded carbon cost.)
But the carbon emissions of driving an additional mile are relatively
low. In other words, converting an additional kilowatt of electricity
into a mile on the road is relatively benign for the climate.
That’s not the case for an internal combustion vehicle. In a
conventional gasoline- or diesel-powered car, every additional mile you
drive requires you to burn more fossil fuels.
Don’t overthink it: There is no way to operate a
gasoline or diesel car without burning more fossil fuels. Conventional
ICE cars are machines that turn fossil fuels into (1) miles on the road
and (2) greenhouse gas pollution. This means that — importantly — using
an internal combustion vehicle, or even a conventional hybrid vehicle,
will never be climate-friendly.
That’s why the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change
has
concluded that switching to an electrified transportation system
— in other words, switching from gas cars to EVs — is “likely crucial”
for cutting climate pollution and meeting the Paris Agreement goals. As
the International Council on Clean Transportation
concluded
recently, “There is no realistic pathway for deep decarbonization of
combustion engine vehicles.”
This calculus is likely to improve over time. Over the past decade, the
U.S. power grid’s climate pollution has plunged while emissions from the
transportation sector have slightly risen; we anticipate that, over the
next decade, the U.S. power grid’s greenhouse gas emissions are likely
to decline at least moderately. Energy experts also expect more
renewables to get built, and that natural gas will continue to drive
coal off of the grid. These changes mean that the per-mile cost of
driving an EV will likely fall. (If you’re in the market for an EV,
Heatmap is
here
to guide you.)
Switching to an EV helps ramp up an important supply chain
When you switch to an EV, you do something else, too — something that
may sound self-evident but is actually quite important: You increase
demand for EVs and for the EV ecosystem.
To be painfully direct about why this is important, this means that you
stop spending so much money into the gasoline-powered driving system —
the network of car dealers, gas stations, and oil companies that subsist
on fossil fuels — and begin paying for products and services from the
car dealerships, charging stations, and automakers who have invested in
the new, low-carbon future.
This is more important than it may seem at first. In the United States,
automakers have struggled to ramp up their EV production in part because
consumers haven’t been buying their EVs. EVs are a manufactured good,
and the world is betting on their continued technological improvement.
The more EVs get made at a company or industry level, the cheaper they
should get. When you buy an EV, you prime the pump for further
improvements in that manufacturing chain.
Your actions are unusually important because if anything is going to
drive the EV transition in the United States, it’s most likely to be
consumer demand.
Under the Biden administration, the Environmental Protection Agency has
adopted rules that could make EVs more than half of all new cars sold by
2032. But those rules are somewhat flexible — automakers could also meet
them by selling a lot of conventional and plug-in hybrids — and they are
under legal threat. If Donald Trump wins this year’s presidential
election, then he will
almost
certainly roll them back, much as
hereversed the Obama administration’s less ambitious car rules.
And even if Kamala Harris wins, then the zealously conservative Supreme
Court could easily throw out the rules.
Under most future scenarios, in other words, American consumers will
have considerable power over how rapidly the country switches to
electric vehicles. Even in a world where the federal government keeps
subsidizing EV manufacturing and offers a $7,500 tax credit for EV
buyers, the country’s transition to EVs will still depend on ordinary
American families deciding to make a change and buy the cars.
So if you want to decarbonize your life, switching to an EV — provided
that you drive enough for it to make sense — is one of the most
important steps that you can take.
When you switch to an electric vehicle, you are doing several things.
First, you are cutting off a source of demand for the oil industry.
Second, you are creating a new source of demand for the EV industry.
Third, you are generating new demand for the companies and
infrastructure — such as charging stations — that will be needed for the
entire transition.
Buying an EV is a climate decision that makes sense if you want to cut
your carbon footprint and if you want to change the
American energy system. That’s why it’s Heatmap’s No. 1 recommendation
for how to decarbonize your life.
Whatever your motivation for buying an electric vehicle, here’s the
thing: The first day you own one, you’re going to love it.
Forget the fears that come with a new technology, the negativity that
stems from the politicization of EVs ownership, or the dead-and-buried
stereotype that EVs are slow and boring rides for greenies only.
Electric cars are zippy and fun because, unlike gas cars, they can
produce a ton of torque from a resting stop. After a lifetime of
listening to a car rattle and roar, I can say from experience that
you’ll find driving in electric silence to be a revelation. An EV owner
wakes up every morning with the equivalent of a full tank of gas because
their home is their gas station.
Want a piece of this bliss? If so, then read on.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Brian Moody, an executive editor at
Cox Automotive (which owns Kelly Blue Book) and an author specializing
in transportation, automotive, and electric cars.
Joseph Yoon, consumer insights
analyst for the automotive agency Edmunds.
Loren McDonald, CEO of EVAdoption,
which provides data analysis and insights about the electrification of
the car industry.
OVERVIEW OF THE PROCESS
Assess your driving needs, research tax
incentives, and decide whether to buy or lease.
When people say electric vehiclethese days, they mostly mean battery electric
vehicle, the kind that runs on 100% electric power, like a
Tesla. EVs have a giant lithium-ion battery, which is typically slung
along the bottom of the car to give it a low center of gravity. An EV
doesn’t need a lot of the parts required for internal combustion — look
inside and you’ll find nary a spark plug, radiator, muffler, or timing
belt.
A plug-in hybrid electric vehicle appears to be an
ordinary gasoline car under the hood. In the rear, however, and you’ll
find a rechargeable battery that can also power the car. Because the
plug-in hybrid has to fit its battery alongside all the typical
combustion components, the battery is smaller than one in a fully
battery-powered EV, allowing for just 30 to 40 miles of electric range,
compared to 200 or 300-some miles for a true EV. That’s still enough for
most people to complete their commute to work and back again without
burning a drop of gasoline.
“That’s who the PHEV is for,” Moody told me. “You can do
your errands around town with 30 to 40 miles, and when the battery runs
out, you just keep driving.”
The hybrid electric vehicle, or just “hybrid,” has been
commonplace on the road ever since the Toyota Prius went mainstream in
the mid-aughts. A hybrid has both a gas engine and an electric motor,
but you don’t plug it in — the gas engine recharges the battery as you
drive. There are multiple ways to engineer a hybrid vehicle, called
series hybrid and parallel hybrid, but all an everyday car shopper needs
to know is that a hybrid decides when it’s most energy-efficient to run
on electricity versus gas. By doing so, it delivers mileage an ordinary
combustion car can’t match — 40, 50, or even more miles per gallon.
What about fuel cells?
Fuel-cell electric vehicles are powered by hydrogen
that is stored in a tank under the car; the fuel cells use this hydrogen
to generate electricity to propel the vehicle. There are a few hydrogen
cars for sale, such as the Hyundai Nexo and Toyota Mirai. These
are niche autos, though, because only a few places — California
and the Northeast — have enough hydrogen refueling stations to support
them.
Buying an EV or PHEV also means you’re buying a battery. Battery life is
described in kilowatt-hours, which is a measurement of
how much energy the battery will hold — that is, for how many hours it
could deliver power at the rate of 1,000 watts per hour.
EV chargers are sometimes
described
by how many kilowatts they put out, and therefore how fast they’ll fill
your battery, typically expressed as Level 1, 2, or 3.
(More on all things battery- and charging-related later.) The 120-volt
outlet in your wall puts out just 1 kilowatt. The upgraded charger
you’ll want to install in the garage puts out up to 19 kilowatts, while
the fast chargers you’ll use on a trip down the interstate are rated up
to 350 kilowatts.
Perhaps the defining stat about an EV (after its
price) is its range, or the automaker’s estimate of how
far the car can go on a single battery charge. Range is steadily growing
as technology matures. Ten years ago, many EVs maxed out at 125-150
miles of range. Today’s typical EV makes in the mid-2000s, while some
automakers allow you to get more than 300 miles by paying for a bigger
battery pack.
A note on range
Just because the car commercial says it will go 250 miles, don’t assume
you’ll complete a 250-mile drive without stopping to charge. Why?
You’ll rarely charge to 100% — carmakers encourage you to quit at 80% or
90% to protect the battery’s health.
Charging speeds slow down significantly as you approach full. Going from
10% to 50% happens in a flash, but it feels like an eternity to get from
80% to 100%, even at the fast-charger.
You won’t want to let the battery get too low out of sheer range
anxiety, which means the car is going to stay between 10% and 90% nearly
all the time.
If you drive aggressively, or fly down the freeway at 80 miles per hour,
or blast the AC to keep the cabin at 66 degrees Fahrenheit on a
99-degree summer day, then you won’t get nearly as many miles as the
projection promises.
Just like your smartphone’s battery, your EV’s will fade little by
little as the years go by, so that maximum range will wane.
Heatmap Recommends: If you’re buying an EV for the long
haul, buy as much range as you can afford.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Will range anxiety ruin my life?
Ask nearly any EV expert and you’ll hear the same thing: “People don’t
drive nearly as far as they think they do,” Moody said. Most of us put
the vast majority of miles on our cars within a few dozen miles of our
homes, running kids around town or driving to work. You’ll use up a
small amount of your battery by the time you get home, plug in, and wake
up the next day fully charged. Road trips may seem daunting to the
uninitiated, but the interstates are now lined with fast-chargers and
the number of them is growing quickly.
Don’t EVs have environmental drawbacks, too?
Building an EV generates more carbon emissions than building a gas car,
a difference that’s due to mining and creating materials for the
battery. But that’s just manufacturing a vehicle; once it’s built, it
has a decade or two of driving ahead of it. A combustion car constantly
spews carbon as it burns fossil fuels, which dwarfs the amount it takes
to make an EV. Don’t forget: An electric car gets greener as the grid
gets greener. The more clean energy is added to the world’s electrical
supply, the better EVs get in comparison to gas cars. You’d need to live
in a state with an especially dirty energy grid, such as Wyoming or West
Virginia, for an EV not to be a much better option than driving around
on gasoline. Furthermore, McDonald said, you can forget the propaganda
that suggests EV batteries wind up stacked in a landfill somewhere when
the cars meet their end. A growing number of companies are ready to
recycle EV batteries and retrieve the precious metals therein, while
it’s likely that lots of batteries will find a second life in
applications such as grid storage.
Aren’t EVs expensive?
It’s true that price has long been one of the biggest barriers to EV
adoption. Even though tax incentives — together with savings on fuel and
maintenance — make many electrics cost-competitive with their gas
counterparts in the long term, their high sticker price keeps many
people away. But more electric models are beginning to creep down toward
the cost of entry-level gasoline cars.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Purchase an EV from one of the new generation of electric-only car
companies like Tesla, Lucid, or Rivian, and you might not have to visit
the dealer at all — customize your vehicle online, and they’ll deliver
it to you when it’s ready. That said, legacy automakers have finally
started putting out compelling EVs, and for those you’ll have to make a
trip to an old-fashioned lot.
As with buying an old-fashioned gas-guzzler, going to the dealership to
get an EV means dealing with pushy salespeople, confusing specs, and
haggling over the price. The process can be doubly frustrating for the
EV shopper given the relative unavailability of some electric models and
reports of some car salespeople who know frustratingly little about the
very EVs they hock.
If you live in a market where EVs have taken hold, like the San
Francisco Bay Area, expect knowledgeable salespeople who can walk you
through the EV buying process. If you live someplace where few electrics
are sold, then the experience may be hit-or-miss. Do your own research,
and prepare to be your own advocate.
Research tax incentives.
For a long time, things were simple: If you bought an electric vehicle,
then you could take a $7,500 credit on your taxes for that year. But
things have gotten murkier in the past year or two — in a bid to protect
domestic manufacturing, Congress passed new rules stating that a certain
amount of the car and its components had to be made in the U.S. to
qualify, leaving a confusing, shifting picture of which EVs qualify and
which don’t. (To wit: Many Teslas
qualify,
Hyundais and Kias don’t, while Rivians receive only half the credit
because they’re so expensive.) The upside of the changed rules is that
buyers are now allowed to get tax credits on leasing an EV, or to
receive the credit as an up-front discount on their new EV. Many states
have generous incentives, too. Washington, for example, will give up to
$9,000 in rebates for buying an EV. “There are enormous discounts on
basically every EV on the market, even before we count the $7,500 with
the federal tax credit,” Yoon told me.
The elephant in the EV room is the 2024 election.
President Joe Biden made support for EVs part of his core climate
program, while Donald Trump has antagonized EVs to the point where many
wonder whether, if elected, he would try to eliminate the subsidy.
McDonald’s advice to the prospective buyer? Don’t feel like you
have to rush out and buy an electric vehicle before Inauguration
Day — even if a new government wanted to repeal the tax
credits, it would probably take a long, legislative slog.
Assess your actual driving needs.
Before you take the plunge, take a moment and really think about how you
drive — because lots of people overestimate what they need. Maybe even
keep notes and check your mileage every day for a week or two to find
out how much you really use the car versus how much you think you do. If
you find that you could get around town on a few dozen miles of charge
but road trip every other weekend, then you might consider a plug-in
hybrid. If you’ve already got a gas car or hybrid to handle longer trips
and are shopping for a second vehicle, there’s no reason not to go for
an EV, assuming you can afford one. If you just need basic
transportation to take you a few miles to work, hate the idea of ever
buying gas again, and want to spend as little as possible … maybe you
should get an e-bike.
Decide whether to buy or lease.
A refresher: When you buy a car, you typically put a downpayment on the
vehicle, and then borrow enough money from the bank to pay off the rest
of its price (plus interest and sales tax) in monthly payments over the
course of four, five, or even more years. Leasing is like renting an
apartment. You put down a deposit and then pay monthly over the course
of the lease, typically three years. But like your rent, those payments
don’t go toward owning the car. At the end of the lease, you give it
back. With EVs especially, there are some serious advantages and
drawbacks to each approach you should keep in mind.
The Pros and Cons of Buying vs. Leasing
Pros of Buying: You’ll actually own
the car and aren’t just renting it; no mileage cap — drive it as far as
you want; buy a used EV for cheap and still qualify for tax credits.
Cons of Buying: You’ll want to keep
the car for many years, which means being stuck with an aging battery
and older tech.
Pros of Leasing: Keep up with changing technology,
since you can easily swap vehicles every few years (“It’s sort of like
the early years of iPhones where you upgraded every two years,” said
McDonald, a serial EV leaser); many more models are available for tax
credits even if you lease; no worries about depreciation or aging.
Cons of Leasing: No equity. Once the lease is up, you
turn in the car and have to start a new lease; the monthly mileage
limits are strict, and the penalties for exceeding them are high.
Heatmap Recommends: Because the EV market is moving so
fast, with new vehicles and longer ranges arriving quickly, leasing may
be the better deal.
Figure out where you’re going to charge.
If you live in a century-old house that would need to have significant
rewiring done to accommodate an EV charger, then installing a Level 2
charger might be too expensive, so you might want to stick to a plug-in
hybrid. (Again, more on charging below.) Does your office have a
charger? If you live in an apartment, does the parking lot have
chargers?
“How you refuel your EV is similar to how you charge
your smartphone — you do it either throughout the day or at night before
you go to bed. You plug in, you wake up, and it’s full,” McDonald
said.
If you want to devote the least amount of time and energy to this
decision as possible, get a Tesla Model Y.
“The first thing I tell people? You should probably get a Tesla,” Moody
told me. Still, Elon Musk’s electric car company isn’t the darling it
once was. Tesla has squandered a huge lead in the EV market by focusing
on vanity projects like the Cybertruck and lost a chunk of public
goodwill through Musk’s misadventures in politics and social media. But
the company still has an ace up its sleeve with the Supercharger
network, which is better and more reliable than the competition. This
will change in the coming years, as the other automakers have adopted
Tesla’s plug and their future cars will be able to use Superchargers.
But for now, it’s a major advantage that makes owning a Tesla a lot less
stressful than trying to get by with a competitor’s EV, especially if
you make road trips. For this reason, Tesla’s Model Y — the best-selling
car in the world in 2023, and the best-selling EV in America — remains a
compelling choice for anyone who wants an EV to be their only car and
have it go nearly anywhere.
If you want to be able to haul around an entire youth soccer team, get a
Kia EV9.
Don’t want Musk to get your money? Fret not. EV offerings from legacy
car companies and new automakers are leaps and bounds better than they
were five years ago when Tesla took over the industry. Hyundai and its
subsidiary Kia, in particular, have outpaced other carmakers in offering
fun and practical EVs. The new Kia EV9 is the best choice for buyers who
want a true EV with three rows so they can accommodate six or seven
passengers, and it’s a sleek-looking vehicle for its size. Its $57,000
starting price is not cheap, but it’s probably the best deal you can get
for a true three-row electric vehicle right now.
If you want an EV that screams, “I know how to have a good time,” get a
Hyundai Ioniq 5.
The Ioniq 5 is a quirky mashup of a crossover and a hatchback. It’s got
enough space to be practical as a family vehicle, but its dimensions
aren’t quite like anything else on the market. In the EV-laden part of
Los Angeles where I live, it’s the most common non-Tesla electric I come
across.
If you’re a prepper, get a Ford F-150 Lightning.
Introduced in 2021, the F-150 Lightning’s game-changing feature is
two-way, or “bidirectional,” charging — you can plug into your house and
use the energy stored in the truck’s battery to back up your home’s
power supply in case of a blackout. Chevy is following suit by putting
this tech into the Silverado EV. But even if you’re just driving and not
powering your home, the Lightning is impressive — its standard battery
produces 452 horsepower, but that number can climb to 580 on more
expensive versions, and both offer a ton of torque.
If you want the Range Rover look without the Range Rover emissions (and
are okay with the Range Rover price), get a Rivian R1S.
Today’s Rivians are luxury lifestyle vehicles, but they offer a lot for
all that cash. The R1 vehicles are spacious and well-appointed on the
interior while offering lots of power and range for the off-road
lifestyle the brand projects — the high-end version of the SUV gets 410
miles of range with 665 horsepower. Other excellent luxury EVs at the
top end of the market include the Lucid Air and Mercedes EQS, but the
Air has the space limitations of a sedan (though it is a large one) and
the Benz is likely to cost more than $100,000. Rivians are pricey, but
they’re not that pricey.
If you need a car that can do it all for not much money, get a Hyundai
Kona EV.
The people’s affordable EV champion, the Chevy Bolt, got the ax last
year, but GM has promised to bring it back for people who want a
smallish EV that doesn’t cost a fortune. In the meantime, the “SE”
version of the Hyundai Kona EV, a small SUV, starts around $36,000 and
gets 261 miles of range. (There’s an even cheaper version with 200 miles
of range, but trust me: Don’t buy any new EV with less than 250 miles of
range — e.g. the Nissan Leaf, Fiat 500, Mini Cooper, or Subaru Solterra
— unless you really, really like it.) Chevy finally
electrified its huge-selling SUV and rolled out the Equinox EV; while it
starts at $41,000 now, GM promises a $35,000 version soon to come.
If you’re still working through your range anxiety, get a Prius Prime.
There are a wide variety of PHEVs that are worth a look, but an
especially compelling option is the Toyota Prius Prime. The entire Prius
family of hybrids and plug-in hybrids just got a facelift for 2023 that
is miles ahead of the frumpy, aging look the car previously had. And
where the previous Prius Prime was limited to a puny 25 miles of
electric range, today’s will do 44 — enough for lots of people to do
their daily city driving without burning any gas.
Know your warranty
An EV’s coverage is likely to be a little different than that standard
car warranty you’re used to. A standard Tesla Model Y, for instance,
comes with four-year, 50,000-mile basic coverage for most of the little
things that could go wrong with your vehicle, but an eight-year,
100,000-mile warranty on the battery and drive unit that guarantees the
battery won’t fade to less than 70% of its initial capacity during that
time.
WHAT’S NEXT?
Become a charging virtuoso.
Some vocabulary to get you started:
A Level 1 charger is your everyday household power
outlet that provides 120 volts. Plug your car into the wall this way and
you’ll get little more than a trickle, perhaps 3 or 4 miles of driving
range per hour. This isn’t enough to charge your EV overnight (it might
be enough for a PHEV, however), but it just might save your butt in a
pinch — say if you’re camping in the boonies, use more electricity than
you expected while you’re out there, and need just a few more miles to
safely make it to the next high-speed charger.
Level 2 is what most EV drivers use for the charger in
their own garage. With the power stepped up to 240 volts, a Level 2
charger can add in the neighborhood of 25 to 30 miles of driving range
per hour. That’s enough to take a typical electric vehicle from mostly
empty to mostly full overnight — or during the course of a workday, if
you’re lucky and your employer has plugs in the parking lot. If you’ve
seen a charging station in front of your local Whole Foods or noticed a
few EV charging spots in a parking garage, they’re likely Level 2 plugs.
You’ll find them at some hotels, too, which is helpful since you can
start the next day of your trip on full if you can snag a spot.
If it’s fast enough to fill up your whole battery in an hour or less,
it’s a Level 3 charger, also known as a DC fast
charger. Tesla’s Supercharger stations belong in this category,
as do the fast-charging stations by companies like EVgo and Electrify
America that service non-Teslas. EV owners who charge at home will visit
Level 3 chargers only when they stray far from home on a road trip.
Older Level 3 chargers from the 2010s topped out at 50 or 72 kilowatts,
providing around 300 miles of range per hour. New stations, though, can
deliver 250 or even 350 kilowatts, enough to take most EVs from 10% to
80% charge in just about 20 minutes.
A note on etiquette
If you’re staying at an AirBnb or guest house that doesn’t offer
charging explicitly, you can still plug into any outdoor outlet for a
top-up — just ask your host first, since they’re the ones who’ll be
paying the bill.
Since charging at home is the make-or-break feature that will make your
electrified life more convenient than your gas-burning days, your first
order of business is getting a Level 2 charger installed. You’re going
to need an electrician for this one, since it requires stepping up the
voltage (and might require installing a new breaker panel or running new
wiring, depending upon your home). Be sure to get multiple quotes so you
can compare work estimates and prices.
“When you buy from an EV dealer or Tesla or whomever,
they might refer you to an electrician or an installer. There are
companies that have services and websites where they do all the work for
you. You plug in your address and information, and they’ll recommend and
refer you to an installer,” McDonald said.
How much this’ll cost you varies by where you live and how much work
it’ll take to set up your home, but the national average is $1,200 to
$1,500, McDonald says. The exception could be older houses that were not
set up for anything close to the electrical load it takes to charge a
car, so if you own a hundred-year-old home in New England with lots of
original wiring, you might be in for a shock. Don’t forget, however,
that lots of incentives are available for setting up EV infrastructure
at your home. You might be eligible for a tax credit equal to 30 percent
of the cost up to $1,000.
As far as charging away from home? Most EVs automatically show nearby
charging stations on their touchscreen navigation systems and will route
you to the necessary stops along a long drive. Teslas will even show you
how many stalls are available at a given Supercharger and how many other
cars are en route. As an EV driver, you’ll get to know the fast-chargers
in your neighborhood and along your familiar highways, but you’ll also
get to know sites like Plugshare that will display every charger of
every speed and every plug throughout that country — invaluable for
planning a journey.
As you get comfortable with your own driving habits, you’ll figure out
whether you need to expand your choices by purchasing adapters or
dongles that let your car charge at different kinds of plugs. For
example, today’s non-Tesla EVs eventually will be able to charge at
Tesla superchargers, but because they are still being built with the
competing CCS standard, you’d need an adapter to allow today’s Ford
Mustang Mach-E to use a Tesla plug. I have an adapter in my Tesla Model
3 to use the “J1772” plugs you find on the Level 2 charger at the
grocery store, and I bought one for the NEMA 14-50 plugs common at an RV
campsite — just in case I really get into trouble out there.
Embrace the zen of regenerative braking.
When a car brakes to slow down, energy is lost. But in an EV, some of it
can be recaptured via regenerative braking, a system that captures the
energy from waste heat and puts it back into the battery. This allows
for an experience unavailable to the gasoline motorist called
one-pedal driving: Take your foot off the accelerator
and the car immediately slows itself down via the regenerative braking
system. When I drive my Tesla Model 3, I only hit the brake pedal when I
need to slow down in a big hurry; otherwise, I let off the accelerator
and let the car coast to a stop. This system can add several miles of
range back onto the battery if you’re coasting out of the mountains on a
steep downgrade.
A word of warning: Many people don’t like regenerative braking, at least
at first, because it feels jerky to have the car instantly slow itself
down when you let off the accelerator. But trust me, you’ll get better
and better at letting off the pedal slowly so you don’t make your
passengers nauseous. It’s also possible in many vehicles to turn down
the regen so it’s less aggressive.
Revel in the many lifestyle benefits.
For starters, think of all the car vocabulary you
won’t need anymore. An EV’s power output can be
measured in torque and horsepower, but say goodbye to
combustion-specific vernacular like spark plugs, cylinders, pistons, or
liters as a measure of engine size (unless you get a plug-in hybrid). No
more mufflers, no exhaust or timing belts. An EV has no use for miles
per gallon, though carmakers and the EPA try to measure an electric
car’s efficiency in miles per gallon equivalent as a way to compare them
with gas cars.
As the months and years go by, you’ll appreciate a number of differences
in the EV owner’s lifestyle. Drivers needn’t bother with remembering the
pesky oil change every 3,000 miles, nor with worrying about the
lifespans of thousands of moving parts that come with internal
combustion. (On the other hand, today’s EVs
burn
through tires faster than gas cars do because of their weight
and their performance.)
There’s a lot more to learn, of course. Just remember: The first time
you bypass the gas station — with its stinky fumes and pesky commercials
screaming at you — to refuel your car in the comfort of your home,
you’ll wonder why you waited so long.
Whatever your motivation for buying an electric vehicle, here’s the
thing: The first day you own one, you’re going to love it.
Forget the fears that come with a new technology, the negativity that
stems from the politicization of EVs ownership, or the dead-and-buried
stereotype that EVs are slow and boring rides for greenies only.
Electric cars are zippy and fun because, unlike gas cars, they can
produce a ton of torque from a resting stop. After a lifetime of
listening to a car rattle and roar, I can say from experience that
you’ll find driving in electric silence to be a revelation. An EV owner
wakes up every morning with the equivalent of a full tank of gas because
their home is their gas station.
Want a piece of this bliss? If so, then read on.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Brian Moody, an executive editor at
Cox Automotive (which owns Kelly Blue Book) and an author specializing
in transportation, automotive, and electric cars.
Joseph Yoon, consumer insights
analyst for the automotive agency Edmunds.
Loren McDonald, CEO of EVAdoption,
which provides data analysis and insights about the electrification of
the car industry.
OVERVIEW OF THE PROCESS
Assess your driving needs, research tax
incentives, and decide whether to buy or lease.
When people say electric vehiclethese days, they mostly mean battery electric
vehicle, the kind that runs on 100% electric power, like a
Tesla. EVs have a giant lithium-ion battery, which is typically slung
along the bottom of the car to give it a low center of gravity. An EV
doesn’t need a lot of the parts required for internal combustion — look
inside and you’ll find nary a spark plug, radiator, muffler, or timing
belt.
A plug-in hybrid electric vehicle appears to be an
ordinary gasoline car under the hood. In the rear, however, and you’ll
find a rechargeable battery that can also power the car. Because the
plug-in hybrid has to fit its battery alongside all the typical
combustion components, the battery is smaller than one in a fully
battery-powered EV, allowing for just 30 to 40 miles of electric range,
compared to 200 or 300-some miles for a true EV. That’s still enough for
most people to complete their commute to work and back again without
burning a drop of gasoline.
“That’s who the PHEV is for,” Moody told me. “You can do
your errands around town with 30 to 40 miles, and when the battery runs
out, you just keep driving.”
The hybrid electric vehicle, or just “hybrid,” has been
commonplace on the road ever since the Toyota Prius went mainstream in
the mid-aughts. A hybrid has both a gas engine and an electric motor,
but you don’t plug it in — the gas engine recharges the battery as you
drive. There are multiple ways to engineer a hybrid vehicle, called
series hybrid and parallel hybrid, but all an everyday car shopper needs
to know is that a hybrid decides when it’s most energy-efficient to run
on electricity versus gas. By doing so, it delivers mileage an ordinary
combustion car can’t match — 40, 50, or even more miles per gallon.
What about fuel cells?
Fuel-cell electric vehicles are powered by hydrogen that is stored in a tank under the car; the fuel cells use this hydrogen to generate electricity to propel the vehicle. There are a few hydrogen cars for sale, such as the Hyundai Nexo and Toyota Mirai.
<strong>These are niche autos</strong>, though, because only a few places — California and the Northeast — have enough hydrogen refueling stations to support them.
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Buying an EV or PHEV also means you’re buying a battery. Battery life is
described in kilowatt-hours, which is a measurement of
how much energy the battery will hold — that is, for how many hours it
could deliver power at the rate of 1,000 watts per hour.
EV chargers are sometimes
described
by how many kilowatts they put out, and therefore how fast they’ll fill
your battery, typically expressed as Level 1, 2, or 3.
(More on all things battery- and charging-related later.) The 120-volt
outlet in your wall puts out just 1 kilowatt. The upgraded charger
you’ll want to install in the garage puts out up to 19 kilowatts, while
the fast chargers you’ll use on a trip down the interstate are rated up
to 350 kilowatts.
Perhaps the defining stat about an EV (after its
price) is its range, or the automaker’s estimate of how
far the car can go on a single battery charge. Range is steadily growing
as technology matures. Ten years ago, many EVs maxed out at 125-150
miles of range. Today’s typical EV makes in the mid-2000s, while some
automakers allow you to get more than 300 miles by paying for a bigger
battery pack.
A note on range
Just because the car commercial says it will go 250 miles, don’t assume you’ll complete a 250-mile drive without stopping to charge. Why?
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You’ll rarely charge to 100% — carmakers encourage you to quit at 80% or
90% to protect the battery’s health.
Charging speeds slow down significantly as you approach full. Going from
10% to 50% happens in a flash, but it feels like an eternity to get from
80% to 100%, even at the fast-charger.
You won’t want to let the battery get too low out of sheer range
anxiety, which means the car is going to stay between 10% and 90% nearly
all the time.
If you drive aggressively, or fly down the freeway at 80 miles per hour,
or blast the AC to keep the cabin at 66 degrees Fahrenheit on a
99-degree summer day, then you won’t get nearly as many miles as the
projection promises.
Just like your smartphone’s battery, your EV’s will fade little by
little as the years go by, so that maximum range will wane.
Heatmap Recommends: If you’re buying an EV for the
long haul, buy as much range as you can afford.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Will range anxiety ruin my life?
Ask nearly any EV expert and you’ll hear the same thing: “People don’t
drive nearly as far as they think they do,” Moody said. Most of us put
the vast majority of miles on our cars within a few dozen miles of our
homes, running kids around town or driving to work. You’ll use up a
small amount of your battery by the time you get home, plug in, and wake
up the next day fully charged. Road trips may seem daunting to the
uninitiated, but the interstates are now lined with fast-chargers and
the number of them is growing quickly.
Don’t EVs have environmental drawbacks, too?
Building an EV generates more carbon emissions than building a gas car,
a difference that’s due to mining and creating materials for the
battery. But that’s just manufacturing a vehicle; once it’s built, it
has a decade or two of driving ahead of it. A combustion car constantly
spews carbon as it burns fossil fuels, which dwarfs the amount it takes
to make an EV. Don’t forget: An electric car gets greener as the grid
gets greener. The more clean energy is added to the world’s electrical
supply, the better EVs get in comparison to gas cars. You’d need to live
in a state with an especially dirty energy grid, such as Wyoming or West
Virginia, for an EV not to be a much better option than driving around
on gasoline. Furthermore, McDonald said, you can forget the propaganda
that suggests EV batteries wind up stacked in a landfill somewhere when
the cars meet their end. A growing number of companies are ready to
recycle EV batteries and retrieve the precious metals therein, while
it’s likely that lots of batteries will find a second life in
applications such as grid storage.
Aren’t EVs expensive?
It’s true that price has long been one of the biggest barriers to EV
adoption. Even though tax incentives — together with savings on fuel and
maintenance — make many electrics cost-competitive with their gas
counterparts in the long term, their high sticker price keeps many
people away. But more electric models are beginning to creep down toward
the cost of entry-level gasoline cars.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Purchase an EV from one of the new generation of electric-only
car companies like Tesla, Lucid, or Rivian, and you might not have to
visit the dealer at all — customize your vehicle online, and they’ll
deliver it to you when it’s ready. That said, legacy automakers have
finally started putting out compelling EVs, and for those you’ll have to
make a trip to an old-fashioned lot.
As with buying an old-fashioned gas-guzzler, going to the dealership to
get an EV means dealing with pushy salespeople, confusing specs, and
haggling over the price. The process can be doubly frustrating for the
EV shopper given the relative unavailability of some electric models and
reports of some car salespeople who know frustratingly little about the
very EVs they hock.
If you live in a market where EVs have taken hold, like the San
Francisco Bay Area, expect knowledgeable salespeople who can walk you
through the EV buying process. If you live someplace where few electrics
are sold, then the experience may be hit-or-miss. Do your own research,
and prepare to be your own advocate.
Research tax incentives.
For a long time, things were simple: If you bought an electric vehicle,
then you could take a $7,500 credit on your taxes for that year. But
things have gotten murkier in the past year or two — in a bid to protect
domestic manufacturing, Congress passed new rules stating that a certain
amount of the car and its components had to be made in the U.S. to
qualify, leaving a confusing, shifting picture of which EVs qualify and
which don’t. (To wit: Many Teslas
qualify,
Hyundais and Kias don’t, while Rivians receive only half the credit
because they’re so expensive.) The upside of the changed rules is that
buyers are now allowed to get tax credits on leasing an EV, or to
receive the credit as an up-front discount on their new EV. Many states
have generous incentives, too. Washington, for example, will give up to
$9,000 in rebates for buying an EV. “There are enormous discounts on
basically every EV on the market, even before we count the $7,500 with
the federal tax credit,” Yoon told me.
The elephant in the EV room is the 2024
election. President Joe Biden made support for EVs part of his
core climate program, while Donald Trump has antagonized EVs to the
point where many wonder whether, if elected, he would try to eliminate
the subsidy. McDonald’s advice to the prospective buyer? Don’t
feel like you have to rush out and buy an electric vehicle before
Inauguration Day — even if a new government wanted to repeal
the tax credits, it would probably take a long, legislative
slog.
Assess your actual driving needs.
Before you take the plunge, take a moment and really think about how you
drive — because lots of people overestimate what they need. Maybe even
keep notes and check your mileage every day for a week or two to find
out how much you really use the car versus how much you think you do. If
you find that you could get around town on a few dozen miles of charge
but road trip every other weekend, then you might consider a plug-in
hybrid. If you’ve already got a gas car or hybrid to handle longer trips
and are shopping for a second vehicle, there’s no reason not to go for
an EV, assuming you can afford one. If you just need basic
transportation to take you a few miles to work, hate the idea of ever
buying gas again, and want to spend as little as possible … maybe you
should get an e-bike.
Decide whether to buy or lease.
A refresher: When you buy a car, you typically put a downpayment on the
vehicle, and then borrow enough money from the bank to pay off the rest
of its price (plus interest and sales tax) in monthly payments over the
course of four, five, or even more years. Leasing is like renting an
apartment. You put down a deposit and then pay monthly over the course
of the lease, typically three years. But like your rent, those payments
don’t go toward owning the car. At the end of the lease, you give it
back. With EVs especially, there are some serious advantages and
drawbacks to each approach you should keep in mind.
The Pros and Cons of Buying vs. Leasing
Pros of Buying: You’ll actually own
the car and aren’t just renting it; no mileage cap — drive it as far as
you want; buy a used EV for cheap and still qualify for tax credits.
Cons of Buying: You’ll want to keep
the car for many years, which means being stuck with an aging battery
and older tech.
Pros of Leasing: Keep up with changing technology,
since you can easily swap vehicles every few years (“It’s sort of like
the early years of iPhones where you upgraded every two years,” said
McDonald, a serial EV leaser); many more models are available for tax
credits even if you lease; no worries about depreciation or aging.
Cons of Leasing: No equity. Once the lease is up, you
turn in the car and have to start a new lease; the monthly mileage
limits are strict, and the penalties for exceeding them are high.
Heatmap Recommends: Because the EV market is moving so
fast, with new vehicles and longer ranges arriving quickly, leasing may
be the better deal.
Figure out where you’re going to charge.
If you live in a century-old house that would need to have significant
rewiring done to accommodate an EV charger, then installing a Level 2
charger might be too expensive, so you might want to stick to a plug-in
hybrid. (Again, more on charging below.) Does your office have a
charger? If you live in an apartment, does the parking lot have
chargers?
“How you refuel your EV is similar to how you charge
your smartphone — you do it either throughout the day or at night before
you go to bed. You plug in, you wake up, and it’s full,” McDonald
said.
If you want to devote the least amount of time and energy to this
decision as possible, get a Tesla Model Y.
“The first thing I tell people? You should probably get a Tesla,” Moody
told me. Still, Elon Musk’s electric car company isn’t the darling it
once was. Tesla has squandered a huge lead in the EV market by focusing
on vanity projects like the Cybertruck and lost a chunk of public
goodwill through Musk’s misadventures in politics and social media. But
the company still has an ace up its sleeve with the Supercharger
network, which is better and more reliable than the competition. This
will change in the coming years, as the other automakers have adopted
Tesla’s plug and their future cars will be able to use Superchargers.
But for now, it’s a major advantage that makes owning a Tesla a lot less
stressful than trying to get by with a competitor’s EV, especially if
you make road trips. For this reason, Tesla’s Model Y — the best-selling
car in the world in 2023, and the best-selling EV in America — remains a
compelling choice for anyone who wants an EV to be their only car and
have it go nearly anywhere.
If you want to be able to haul around an entire youth soccer team, get a
Kia EV9.
Don’t want Musk to get your money? Fret not. EV offerings from legacy
car companies and new automakers are leaps and bounds better than they
were five years ago when Tesla took over the industry. Hyundai and its
subsidiary Kia, in particular, have outpaced other carmakers in offering
fun and practical EVs. The new Kia EV9 is the best choice for buyers who
want a true EV with three rows so they can accommodate six or seven
passengers, and it’s a sleek-looking vehicle for its size. Its $57,000
starting price is not cheap, but it’s probably the best deal you can get
for a true three-row electric vehicle right now.
If you want an EV that screams, “I know how to have a good time,” get a
Hyundai Ioniq 5.
The Ioniq 5 is a quirky mashup of a crossover and a hatchback. It’s got
enough space to be practical as a family vehicle, but its dimensions
aren’t quite like anything else on the market. In the EV-laden part of
Los Angeles where I live, it’s the most common non-Tesla electric I come
across.
If you’re a prepper, get a Ford F-150 Lightning.
Introduced in 2021, the F-150 Lightning’s game-changing feature is
two-way, or “bidirectional,” charging — you can plug into your house and
use the energy stored in the truck’s battery to back up your home’s
power supply in case of a blackout. Chevy is following suit by putting
this tech into the Silverado EV. But even if you’re just driving and not
powering your home, the Lightning is impressive — its standard battery
produces 452 horsepower, but that number can climb to 580 on more
expensive versions, and both offer a ton of torque.
If you want the Range Rover look without the Range Rover emissions (and
are okay with the Range Rover price), get a Rivian R1S.
Today’s Rivians are luxury lifestyle vehicles, but they offer a lot for
all that cash. The R1 vehicles are spacious and well-appointed on the
interior while offering lots of power and range for the off-road
lifestyle the brand projects — the high-end version of the SUV gets 410
miles of range with 665 horsepower. Other excellent luxury EVs at the
top end of the market include the Lucid Air and Mercedes EQS, but the
Air has the space limitations of a sedan (though it is a large one) and
the Benz is likely to cost more than $100,000. Rivians are pricey, but
they’re not that pricey.
If you need a car that can do it all for not much money, get a Hyundai
Kona EV.
The people’s affordable EV champion, the Chevy Bolt, got the ax last
year, but GM has promised to bring it back for people who want a
smallish EV that doesn’t cost a fortune. In the meantime, the “SE”
version of the Hyundai Kona EV, a small SUV, starts around $36,000 and
gets 261 miles of range. (There’s an even cheaper version with 200 miles
of range, but trust me: Don’t buy any new EV with less than 250 miles of
range — e.g. the Nissan Leaf, Fiat 500, Mini Cooper, or Subaru Solterra
— unless you really, really like it.) Chevy finally
electrified its huge-selling SUV and rolled out the Equinox EV; while it
starts at $41,000 now, GM promises a $35,000 version soon to come.
If you’re still working through your range anxiety, get a Prius Prime.
There are a wide variety of PHEVs that are worth a look, but an
especially compelling option is the Toyota Prius Prime. The entire Prius
family of hybrids and plug-in hybrids just got a facelift for 2023 that
is miles ahead of the frumpy, aging look the car previously had. And
where the previous Prius Prime was limited to a puny 25 miles of
electric range, today’s will do 44 — enough for lots of people to do
their daily city driving without burning any gas.
Know your warranty
An EV’s coverage is likely to be a little different than that standard car warranty you’re used to. A standard Tesla Model Y, for instance, comes with four-year, 50,000-mile basic coverage for most of the little things that could go wrong with your vehicle, but an eight-year, 100,000-mile warranty on the battery and drive unit that guarantees the battery won’t fade to less than 70% of its initial capacity during that time.
</div>
WHAT’S NEXT?
Become a charging virtuoso.
Some vocabulary to get you started:
A Level 1 charger is your everyday household power
outlet that provides 120 volts. Plug your car into the wall this way and
you’ll get little more than a trickle, perhaps 3 or 4 miles of driving
range per hour. This isn’t enough to charge your EV overnight (it might
be enough for a PHEV, however), but it just might save your butt in a
pinch — say if you’re camping in the boonies, use more electricity than
you expected while you’re out there, and need just a few more miles to
safely make it to the next high-speed charger.
Level 2 is what most EV drivers use for the charger in
their own garage. With the power stepped up to 240 volts, a Level 2
charger can add in the neighborhood of 25 to 30 miles of driving range
per hour. That’s enough to take a typical electric vehicle from mostly
empty to mostly full overnight — or during the course of a workday, if
you’re lucky and your employer has plugs in the parking lot. If you’ve
seen a charging station in front of your local Whole Foods or noticed a
few EV charging spots in a parking garage, they’re likely Level 2 plugs.
You’ll find them at some hotels, too, which is helpful since you can
start the next day of your trip on full if you can snag a spot.
If it’s fast enough to fill up your whole battery in an hour or less,
it’s a Level 3 charger, also known as a DC fast
charger. Tesla’s Supercharger stations belong in this category,
as do the fast-charging stations by companies like EVgo and Electrify
America that service non-Teslas. EV owners who charge at home will visit
Level 3 chargers only when they stray far from home on a road trip.
Older Level 3 chargers from the 2010s topped out at 50 or 72 kilowatts,
providing around 300 miles of range per hour. New stations, though, can
deliver 250 or even 350 kilowatts, enough to take most EVs from 10% to
80% charge in just about 20 minutes.
A note on etiquette
If you’re staying at an AirBnb or guest house that doesn’t offer charging explicitly, you can still plug into any outdoor outlet for a top-up — just ask your host first, since they’re the ones who’ll be paying the bill.
</div>
Since charging at home is the make-or-break feature that will make your
electrified life more convenient than your gas-burning days, your first
order of business is getting a Level 2 charger installed. You’re going
to need an electrician for this one, since it requires stepping up the
voltage (and might require installing a new breaker panel or running new
wiring, depending upon your home). Be sure to get multiple quotes so you
can compare work estimates and prices.
“When you buy from an EV dealer or Tesla or whomever,
they might refer you to an electrician or an installer. There are
companies that have services and websites where they do all the work for
you. You plug in your address and information, and they’ll recommend and
refer you to an installer,” McDonald said.
How much this’ll cost you varies by where you live and how much work
it’ll take to set up your home, but the national average is $1,200 to
$1,500, McDonald says. The exception could be older houses that were not
set up for anything close to the electrical load it takes to charge a
car, so if you own a hundred-year-old home in New England with lots of
original wiring, you might be in for a shock. Don’t forget, however,
that lots of incentives are available for setting up EV infrastructure
at your home. You might be eligible for a tax credit equal to 30 percent
of the cost up to $1,000.
As far as charging away from home? Most EVs automatically show nearby
charging stations on their touchscreen navigation systems and will route
you to the necessary stops along a long drive. Teslas will even show you
how many stalls are available at a given Supercharger and how many other
cars are en route. As an EV driver, you’ll get to know the fast-chargers
in your neighborhood and along your familiar highways, but you’ll also
get to know sites like Plugshare that will display every charger of
every speed and every plug throughout that country — invaluable for
planning a journey.
As you get comfortable with your own driving habits, you’ll figure out
whether you need to expand your choices by purchasing adapters or
dongles that let your car charge at different kinds of plugs. For
example, today’s non-Tesla EVs eventually will be able to charge at
Tesla superchargers, but because they are still being built with the
competing CCS standard, you’d need an adapter to allow today’s Ford
Mustang Mach-E to use a Tesla plug. I have an adapter in my Tesla Model
3 to use the “J1772” plugs you find on the Level 2 charger at the
grocery store, and I bought one for the NEMA 14-50 plugs common at an RV
campsite — just in case I really get into trouble out there.
Embrace the zen of regenerative braking.
When a car brakes to slow down, energy is lost. But in an EV, some of it
can be recaptured via regenerative braking, a system that captures the
energy from waste heat and puts it back into the battery. This allows
for an experience unavailable to the gasoline motorist called
one-pedal driving: Take your foot off the accelerator
and the car immediately slows itself down via the regenerative braking
system. When I drive my Tesla Model 3, I only hit the brake pedal when I
need to slow down in a big hurry; otherwise, I let off the accelerator
and let the car coast to a stop. This system can add several miles of
range back onto the battery if you’re coasting out of the mountains on a
steep downgrade.
A word of warning: Many people don’t like regenerative braking, at least
at first, because it feels jerky to have the car instantly slow itself
down when you let off the accelerator. But trust me, you’ll get better
and better at letting off the pedal slowly so you don’t make your
passengers nauseous. It’s also possible in many vehicles to turn down
the regen so it’s less aggressive.
Revel in the many lifestyle benefits.
For starters, think of all the car vocabulary you
won’t need anymore. An EV’s power output can be
measured in torque and horsepower, but say goodbye to
combustion-specific vernacular like spark plugs, cylinders, pistons, or
liters as a measure of engine size (unless you get a plug-in hybrid). No
more mufflers, no exhaust or timing belts. An EV has no use for miles
per gallon, though carmakers and the EPA try to measure an electric
car’s efficiency in miles per gallon equivalent as a way to compare them
with gas cars.
As the months and years go by, you’ll appreciate a number of differences
in the EV owner’s lifestyle. Drivers needn’t bother with remembering the
pesky oil change every 3,000 miles, nor with worrying about the
lifespans of thousands of moving parts that come with internal
combustion. (On the other hand, today’s EVs
burn
through tires faster than gas cars do because of their weight
and their performance.)
There’s a lot more to learn, of course. Just remember: The first time
you bypass the gas station — with its stinky fumes and pesky commercials
screaming at you — to refuel your car in the comfort of your home,
you’ll wonder why you waited so long.
Why You
Should Buy Clean Power — However You Can Get It
date: 2024-09-23, from: Heatmap News
Time is not our friend when it comes to climate change. The value of
lowering greenhouse gas emissions today is greater than doing it in five
years because every molecule of carbon we emit between now and then will
accumulate in the atmosphere. You, as an individual, can’t make your
utility build or buy more solar power more quickly. But you can start
generating carbon-free kilowatts at home in a matter of weeks. (For more
on that, check out our
guide
to getting rooftop solar.)
There is a heated debate among clean energy experts about the value of
rooftop solar in the climate fight. Heatmap contributor and Princeton
professor Jesse Jenkins
argues
that because big utility-scale solar installations are so much cheaper
to build, rooftop solar rarely does little more than crowd out these
projects, making our future clean energy system more expensive.
But as
Eric
O’Shaughnessy, a renewable energy market research analyst, told
me, we don’t have a central planner who can wave a wand and manifest the
most cost effective system. And in the real world, economics isn’t the
only factor determining what we build. Although the U.S. is now building
more renewable energy than it has in the past, and the cost is
now
on par with — if not lower than — new fossil fuel generation,
the clean energy industry is battling serious headwinds. A stubborn
trifecta of inflation, supply chain constraints, and high interest rates
has slowed utility-scale development compared to what it might have
looked like. Community opposition to clean energy projects
has
increased and will likely worsen as the least-controversial
sites for development get used up. And we simply do not have enough
power lines to accommodate new clean generation — solar and wind
projects are
waiting
years to get approval to connect to the transmission system.
All of this is becoming a problem for our climate goals. A recent
Rhodium Group
report
found that the pace of clean energy deployment has lagged projections of
what programs under the Inflation Reduction Act could be achieving —
projections that already fall short of how much we
should be building to meet our emissions targets.
Though some of the challenges may ease — for example, the Federal
Reserve just cut interest rates, which had become a
significant
obstacle for clean energy deployment — others are likely to take
longer to resolve.
Homeowners, by contrast, can avoid land-use conflicts and act
comparatively swiftly. “This is a space that’s not being used,”
O’Shaughnessy said. “Most people don’t ever go to their roof. There’s no
site acquisition. You don’t have to worry about an endangered turtle.”
The immediate emissions benefits of installing solar really depend on
where you live and how dirty your local grid is, among other factors.
But the reason we still put rooftop solar in the number two slot is that
it’s such a high leverage climate action in other ways. For example,
having a solar array can help you afford future investments in other
climate solutions like heat pumps and EVs, because it mitigates against
electric bill increases. It can also reduce overall electricity demand
in your neighborhood, which may help your utility avoid costly grid
upgrades and keep rates lower in your area.
If you pair your solar array with a battery, you may be able to join a
utility program that synchronizes thousands of these systems in your
region to decrease strain on the grid, avoid blackouts, and preempt the
need to deploy fossil fueled “peaker” plants in periods of especially
high demand. Various estimates from the
Department
of Energy and
private
research firms have found that such “virtual power plants” have
the potential to save billions of dollars over the next decade. These
programs will typically pay you to participate, too.
Researchers have also found that rooftop solar is “contagious” — one new
installation in a neighborhood can cascade into several. “If you install
solar, you are going to go through a process that most people have not,”
O’Shaughnessy told me. “In doing that, you are going up this learning
curve, and all of that is something that you can share with your
friends, neighbors, family after the fact.”
If you’re a renter, or if you aren’t able to get rooftop solar today for
some other reason, subscribing to a community solar project is another
way to help speed up solar deployment in your region and reap some of
the benefits that homeowners have access to. Community solar arrays are
usually small installations on warehouse roofs, parking lots, or beside
highways. Subscribers sign up for a portion of the electricity produced,
and receive credits on their electric bills the same way they would with
a rooftop system. These projects aren’t available everywhere, though.
Solar United Neighbors, who we consulted for our rooftop solar guide,
has
more
background reading and a
directory
of projects you can subscribe to.
(A brief note on a third option: choosing a “green” retail electricity
provider. This is a much more indirect way to support the energy
transition, and experts are split on whether it’s worth doing at all. In
theory, it sends a demand signal for renewables and helps new projects
get built, but there’s no way to really know how far your money is
going. Because the benefits are not guaranteed, we are not including
this option in this package.)
Getting rooftop solar can be a big, confusing project, and our guide on
the subject will walk you through everything you need to know to feel
prepared to tackle it.
Why You
Should Buy Clean Power — However You Can Get It
date: 2024-09-23, from: Heatmap News
Time is not our friend when it comes to climate change. The value of
lowering greenhouse gas emissions today is greater than doing it in five
years because every molecule of carbon we emit between now and then will
accumulate in the atmosphere. You, as an individual, can’t make your
utility build or buy more solar power more quickly. But you can start
generating carbon-free kilowatts at home in a matter of weeks. (For more
on that, check out our
guide
to getting rooftop solar.)
There is a heated debate among clean energy experts about the value of
rooftop solar in the climate fight. Heatmap contributor and Princeton
professor Jesse Jenkins
argues
that because big utility-scale solar installations are so much cheaper
to build, rooftop solar rarely does little more than crowd out these
projects, making our future clean energy system more expensive.
But as
Eric
O’Shaughnessy, a renewable energy market research analyst, told
me, we don’t have a central planner who can wave a wand and manifest the
most cost effective system. And in the real world, economics isn’t the
only factor determining what we build. Although the U.S. is now building
more renewable energy than it has in the past, and the cost is
now
on par with — if not lower than — new fossil fuel generation,
the clean energy industry is battling serious headwinds. A stubborn
trifecta of inflation, supply chain constraints, and high interest rates
has slowed utility-scale development compared to what it might have
looked like. Community opposition to clean energy projects
has
increased and will likely worsen as the least-controversial
sites for development get used up. And we simply do not have enough
power lines to accommodate new clean generation — solar and wind
projects are
waiting
years to get approval to connect to the transmission system.
All of this is becoming a problem for our climate goals. A recent
Rhodium Group
report
found that the pace of clean energy deployment has lagged projections of
what programs under the Inflation Reduction Act could be achieving —
projections that already fall short of how much we
should be building to meet our emissions targets.
Though some of the challenges may ease — for example, the Federal
Reserve just cut interest rates, which had become a
significant
obstacle for clean energy deployment — others are likely to take
longer to resolve.
Homeowners, by contrast, can avoid land-use conflicts and act
comparatively swiftly. “This is a space that’s not being used,”
O’Shaughnessy said. “Most people don’t ever go to their roof. There’s no
site acquisition. You don’t have to worry about an endangered turtle.”
The immediate emissions benefits of installing solar really depend on
where you live and how dirty your local grid is, among other factors.
But the reason we still put rooftop solar in the number two slot is that
it’s such a high leverage climate action in other ways. For example,
having a solar array can help you afford future investments in other
climate solutions like heat pumps and EVs, because it mitigates against
electric bill increases. It can also reduce overall electricity demand
in your neighborhood, which may help your utility avoid costly grid
upgrades and keep rates lower in your area.
If you pair your solar array with a battery, you may be able to join a
utility program that synchronizes thousands of these systems in your
region to decrease strain on the grid, avoid blackouts, and preempt the
need to deploy fossil fueled “peaker” plants in periods of especially
high demand. Various estimates from the
Department
of Energy and
private
research firms have found that such “virtual power plants” have
the potential to save billions of dollars over the next decade. These
programs will typically pay you to participate, too.
Researchers have also found that rooftop solar is “contagious” — one new
installation in a neighborhood can cascade into several. “If you install
solar, you are going to go through a process that most people have not,”
O’Shaughnessy told me. “In doing that, you are going up this learning
curve, and all of that is something that you can share with your
friends, neighbors, family after the fact.”
If you’re a renter, or if you aren’t able to get rooftop solar today for
some other reason, subscribing to a community solar project is another
way to help speed up solar deployment in your region and reap some of
the benefits that homeowners have access to. Community solar arrays are
usually small installations on warehouse roofs, parking lots, or beside
highways. Subscribers sign up for a portion of the electricity produced,
and receive credits on their electric bills the same way they would with
a rooftop system. These projects aren’t available everywhere, though.
Solar United Neighbors, who we consulted for our rooftop solar guide,
has
more
background reading and a
directory
of projects you can subscribe to.
(A brief note on a third option: choosing a “green” retail electricity
provider. This is a much more indirect way to support the energy
transition, and experts are split on whether it’s worth doing at all. In
theory, it sends a demand signal for renewables and helps new projects
get built, but there’s no way to really know how far your money is
going. Because the benefits are not guaranteed, we are not including
this option in this package.)
Getting rooftop solar can be a big, confusing project, and our guide on
the subject will walk you through everything you need to know to feel
prepared to tackle it.
How
to Put Solar Panels on Your Roof: A Step-by-Step Guide
date: 2024-09-23, from: Heatmap News
Rooftop solar is not like other types of consumer technology. Even
though the end result is having a bunch of electrical equipment
installed on the roof of your home, the process of getting solar is more
like doing a bathroom renovation than buying a flat screen TV. To get
the results you’re looking for, the most important decisions you’ll make
are not the brand or model of the panels, but rather who you hire for
the job, the size of your system, and how you finance it.
There’s a bunch more choices you’ll have to navigate along the way, and
it’s easy to get overwhelmed. One expert I spoke with told me that
sometimes the customers who are the most excited about getting solar end
up bailing, the victims of decision fatigue.
We created this guide to save you from that fate. So take a deep breath,
take my hand, and let’s walk down the metaphorical hardware store aisle
and get you the rooftop solar solution you’re dreaming of.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Roger Horowitz is the director of Go
Solar programs at Solar United Neighbors, a national nonprofit that
serves as an unbiased resource for homeowners interested in solar.
Horowitz manages and provides technical support to the company’s Solar
Help Desk team.
Tony Vernetti is a senior trainer at
Enphase Energy, a company that produces inverters, batteries, and EV
chargers, where he trains solar sales and installation teams. Before
joining Enphase in 2020, Vernetti spent 12 years working for rooftop
solar companies in California.
Nate Bowieis the
vice president of residential sales at ReVision Energy, an
employee-owned solar company operating throughout northern New England.
Bowie has been selling solar for ReVision for 15 years.
While the actual installation of the system should only take one
to two days, the entire process from initial outreach to grid
connection takes two to four months on average,
according to Solar United Neighbors.
THE BASICS
Photovoltaic panels convert sunlight into electricity.
They come in different sizes and levels of efficiency.
Solar panel size is expressed in watts, which is a
measure of how much power each panel can generate in direct sunlight.
The system size is expressed in kilowatts. (1 kw =
1,000 watts.)
Example: The
highest
rated solar panels for 2024 according to EnergySage.com are
SunPower’s M-Series 440 watt model. If you install 20
of these, the system will be capable of generating 8,800
watts, or 8.8 kilowatts in direct sun.
When you receive a quote, you will also see an estimate for how much
power the system is expected to produce over the course of a year. This
will be expressed in kilowatt hours. (1 kilowatt hour
means your panel has generated 1 kilowatt for 1 hour.)
Inverters are a key component of the system that
convert the electricity the solar panels generate from direct current
(DC power) to alternating current (AC power), which is the kind you use
in your home. They are often called the “brain of the system” because
they also collect data on system performance and send it to your
monitoring system, an app you can use to track your
energy production and system status.
A battery, or energy storage system,
is an optional component that can store the electricity your solar
panels generate and dispatch it later. You can have rooftop solar with
or without a battery, but your solar panels will not provide backup
power during a blackout unless you have a battery. Most people get
batteries for resilience during an outage, but in some regions with
favorable policies, batteries can provide additional financial savings.
Net metering is a policy that allows
homeowners to sell excess power that their solar panels generate to
their utility. The rate at which homeowners are compensated varies in
every state, and can determine whether it is worth it to invest in
solar, and how quickly the payback period is.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Is solar energy free?
When you start searching for information about solar on the internet,
you might come across advertisements or commercials promoting free solar
panels. There is no such thing. These ads are typically schemes to
collect your personal data and sell it to solar companies looking for
leads, and the federal government is starting to
crack
down on them.
It is possible to install solar with
zero up-front costs if you lease the system or take out a loan to
finance it, but in both cases you will still owe monthly payments. It is
also rare that anyone is able to offset 100% of their utility bill. You
can get close, but you will likely still owe at least a connection fee
to your utility company.
I don’t live in the sun belt and my roof doesn’t face south. Is
solar still worth it?
Most homeowners in the U.S. can benefit from installing solar as long as
local energy policies are favorable. Placing the panels on a
south-facing roof is optimal, but not necessary. If your panels face due
west, you’ll only lose about 10% of potential generation, according to
Vernetti. “They still produce a ton of energy. They’re still very
effective. It’s just a little bit less than if they’re facing south,” he
said. An east-facing roof is also viable in most cases.
Does having rooftop solar require me to do anything?
You don’t have to worry about shoveling snow off the roof or anything
like that. But like any other electronic devices, solar panels,
inverters, and batteries can break or malfunction, and your system may
require servicing at some point. Pay close attention to your warranties
(more on that later). If you lease the system, you do not have to worry
about this as much because the third-party owner will be responsible for
maintenance.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Know your energy consumption history
In order to design a system that meets your needs and budget, solar
companies will ask for a copy of your most recent electricity bill or,
ideally, your annual energy consumption history. Make sure you have this
information handy before you reach out for quotes.
Where do I find my energy consumption history?
Some utilities include your annual energy consumption, broken out by
month, at the bottom of your electric bill. If you don’t see it, you
should be able to log into your utility account online and download
either your statements from the past year or a spreadsheet of your
monthly electric meter readings.
Consider leasing versus owning
In most of the U.S., you will find you have the option either to lease
your solar panels or buy them outright. You don’t have to decide which
way you want to go before you get started, but it’s helpful to think
through the pros and cons of each.
Pros and Cons of Leasing vs. Buying
Pros of Leasing: Typically zero up-front cost; you
don’t have to worry about maintenance.
Cons of Leasing: You won’t save as much money on your
monthly energy bills; it can complicate the process of selling your
house, as you may have to pay out the rest of your lease at once or find
a buyer who is willing to take it over.
Heatmap Recommends leasing if: You’re fairly certain
you’ll keep your house for the next 15 to 20 years; you can’t afford the
system outright, but you don’t want to take out a loan; your priority is
to generate clean energy and reduce emissions, but you don’t want to
spend too much time figuring out what you want or worrying about the
system’s maintenance.
Pros of Buying: You will benefit from the full savings
the system generates each month; you can take advantage of tax credits
and rebates to help with the up-front cost; it increases your home’s
value.
Cons of Buying: Can cost tens of thousands of dollars;
high interest rates (as of 2024) make loans less attractive; you may be
responsible for paying for any maintenance or repairs depending on your
warranties.
Heatmap Recommends buying if: You have the cash in
hand; you might sell your house in the next 20 years; you know you want
to have control over the details of your project.
Learn about incentives
The federal government offers a 30% tax credit for solar installations
(and batteries) that covers parts and labor. It can significantly reduce
the cost of getting solar, even if you don’t have a lot of tax liability
in the year that you install the system. The credit will roll over to
subsequent tax years.
Example: If you spend $25,000 installing solar in 2024,
you’ll be eligible to take $7,500 off your federal income tax bill. If
you only owe $3,000 in federal taxes in 2024, you’ll get $3,000 back and
will be eligible to claim the remaining $4,500 for the 2025 tax year. If
in 2025 you only owe $3,000 again, you can claim the remaining $1,500 in
2026.
Additional tax credits and rebates may also be offered by your state
energy office, city, or utility. Contractors should be able to help you
figure out what you’re eligible for, and you can wait to talk to them to
learn more. However, incentives change frequently, and contractors don’t
always keep up, so you might want to review the options in your area
independently.
It will also be helpful to understand your state’s net
metering policy, as that will determine how quickly your
investment in solar will pay off and may also dictate how big your
system can be. Some states, like New Jersey, also allow homeowners to
generate additional income through the sale of solar renewable
energy credits, or SRECS.
Where to look for more information:
The
Database
of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency is a great
place to start, although it may not list county- or city-specific
subsidies. Enter your zip code and filter the results by “Eligible
Sector > Residential.”
Check with your state energy office or local sustainability office. They
may have a helpline, or have information about upcoming webinars or
in-person educational events.
One of the worst things that could happen is you install rooftop solar
panels, and then later find out you have a leak or some other problem
with your roof. “Removal and replacement of an array for a reroof is
expensive and could significantly impact the owner’s return on
investment,” Bowie told me. While metal roofs last a very long time and
are unlikely to need a replacement, asphalt shingle roofs generally have
a useful life of 25 to 30 years, Bowie said. You should be fine if your
roof is less than 10 years old, but if not, you may need some roofing
work done before your solar panels are installed.
If you don’t know how old your roof is, Vernetti recommended having a
roofing contractor inspect it. He added that there’s varying opinions on
this, with some solar experts recommending replacement if the roof is
only 5 years old. “In my opinion, scrapping a 5 year old roof is
wasteful and goes against the goal of sustainability,” he said.
“A good solar contractor will help evaluate the roof conditions and
should recommend replacement when necessary, even if it is just to
replace the roof on the roof plane where the solar panels will go,” said
Bowie.
Solar contractors range from local mom and pop shops, to regional
providers like ReVision Solar, which operates in multiple states in the
Northeast, to national companies that install across the country like
SunRun and Sunnova.
“The advantage of going with a large company is that
they have the ability to offer financing the smaller companies might not
be able to. With a regional company, you can actually walk to their
office and knock on the door and talk to somebody if you want to,” said
Vernetti.
Heatmap Recommends: Contact at least one local company
and one national company to get a good sense of your options. Always get
at least three quotes!
Here are a few strategies for finding solar contractors, in order of
what we recommend:
Talk to your friends, family, and neighbors that have solar. Were they
happy with their experience? Which companies did they talk to? Who did
they decide to work with and why?
Check if your state energy office or utility has an online directory of
local solar installers. If your town or city has a sustainability
office, try that, too.
Try using
EnergySage,
which will have you enter your address and monthly energy usage and then
source quotes for you from installers that serve your area. (Note: Treat
these quotes as a starting place, as the companies may not have all of
the information they need to make fully informed estimates.)
Some solar manufacturers, including
Tesla
and
REC,
have their own certified networks of installers. You can get a quote and
get connected to local installers directly through their websites.
What to look for when you reach out for quotes:
If you are calling installers directly, here are some tips for what you
should ask for or look for in a quote. (If you are using an online
resource like EnergySage that finds quotes for you, use the following to
help you ask follow-up questions or refine the proposals.)
Vet the company
A few questions you should ask:
How long have you been in business? Solar is a tough
business, and many companies go under within a few years. You want to
make sure your installer has proven longevity so that they can help you
in the future if any issues arise.
Are your employees certified with the North American Board of
Certified Energy Practitioners? NABCEP is an accreditation
organization for renewable energy professionals. It costs money for
individuals and companies to get certified, and it shouldn’t necessarily
be a dealbreaker if your installer is not certified. However, those
certified by NABCEP must meet minimum professional experience and
training requirements, so it’s a helpful data point.
Know what size system you want
One of the first questions an installer might ask you is how big you
want the system to be. You may want to see quotes for multiple options
in order to compare them. Options include:
Matching the system to your average annual energy use
Oversizing the system to generate more power than you typically use in a
year
Undersizing the system to generate less power than you use in a year
Heatmap Recommends: Oversize your system if you can
afford it.
Why?
Many homeowners find that once they get solar panels, they start to use
more energy, Vernetti said. Because it lowers your electricity bills,
you might be more inclined to crank the A/C or keep the lights on. An
oversized system will protect against that risk and lead to more
savings.
If you’re reading this guide, you’re probably interested in other home
decarbonization technologies like electric heat pumps or electric
vehicles, both of which will increase your future electricity use. Think
about what other electric appliances you might invest in over the next
decade or so and size your system to meet that need. (If you have a big
roof, expanding your system later may also be an option.)
Exceptions:
Some utilities will not allow you to oversize your system. (Your
installer should know if that will be an issue for you.)
Oversizing is more expensive. If you can’t afford it right now, you can
always add more panels to your system later as long as you have more
roof space.
Undersizing the system may make financial sense in some states depending
on residential solar policy.
Understand your financing options
Most installers will include a financing option in their quote. Horowitz
noted that some installers advertise very low interest rates that are
below market rate. They are typically able to do this by paying a
“dealer fee” to the bank, which they incorporate into the price of your
installation — in other words, if your interest rate seems too good to
be true, the total cost of your installation will likely be higher than
it otherwise would be. To get a better sense of the true cost, ask for
quotes both with and without financing options.
Consider a battery
Adding energy storage, a.k.a. a battery, to your solar array can add
another 10 grand or more to the project cost. But there are a few
reasons it might be worth it:
You want backup power during a blackout. As I
mentioned earlier, solar panels alone won’t power your house when the
grid is down. But if you have a battery, you can store the energy they
generate and use it to power essential systems like your refrigerator
and air conditioner during an outage. Note that you will not save
additional money with a battery, unless…
Your utility offers time-of-use rates If what you pay for electricity varies throughout the day or
your utility offers an option to switch to this kind of pricing scheme,
then a battery will enable you to arbitrage prices by tapping into your
stash of electrons when prices hit their peak. Ask your contractor if
they can help set the battery to maximize your bill savings. Aligning
with time-of-use pricing doesn’t necessarily maximize your
carbon savings, however. For that, look into…
Grid services or virtual power plant
programs In some jurisdictions, you can
sign up to give your utility or a third party the ability to take
control of your battery and charge it or discharge it strategically to
help the electric grid. For example, when demand is expected to peak on
a hot summer day, these programs might discharge thousands of
residential batteries in order to prevent the utility from having to
deploy dirty (and expensive) “peaker” plants, which are usually powered
by natural gas or oil. These programs offer either up-front rebates for
batteries or will pay you for your participation, or both. The key thing
is you have to buy a battery that’s compatible with the program.
In conclusion, if you just want back-up power, any battery that’s large
enough to power your essential systems should do. If you want to pay off
the investment, look into time-of-use rates. If you want your investment
to go further for decarbonization, ask your contractor if there are
local grid services programs available, and if any of their products are
compatible.
YOU HAVE THREE QUOTES. NOW WHAT?
After you get a few quotes, you’re going to want to spend some time
comparing them, asking questions, and potentially soliciting additional
quotes with variations on the system. If you’re feeling overwhelmed or
you don’t have the time or patience to sort through the details on your
own, you can also call the Solar United Neighbors Help Desk, which
offers a free quote review service.
Compare the price per watt
The most important number on the quote is the price per
watt, not the total system cost. That is the number you should
be comparing between different installers, as the quotes may be for
differently sized systems.
You should also compare the annual bill savings. If two
different companies quote you significantly different savings for
systems that are roughly the same size, one of them has likely done a
more detailed analysis of your roof than the other.
“It doesn’t matter what module you have, from which
manufacturer, or what inverter you have. There really is no difference
in what your system can produce if it’s the same size,” said
Bowie.
Lastly, if the quote is for a solar lease, or includes a financing
option, look at themonthly payments.
Compare the equipment
Every installer has certain brands and types of equipment they work
with. Our expert panel agreed that it’s important to look at the brand
names the installer is offering for the solar panels, inverters, and
batteries, and to make sure they are from reputable companies that have
been around for at least five years — even if it means paying more. A
quick internet search of the top 10 residential solar panel brands
should give you
a
taste of what those companies are.
“It is definitely worth paying a little bit extra to have really
good equipment,” Vernetti said.
You may also see installers advertise that they offer “Tier 1” solar
panels. That means the manufacturer has been
designated
“bankable” by Bloomberg New Energy Finance. The designation is
more related to finance than product quality, but many solar companies
use it as a rough proxy for reliability.
That being said, don’t get too bogged down in comparing solar brands.
“There’s not a huge difference, typically, between one
solar panel and the next of the Tier 1 manufacturers,” said Bowie. “A
lot of solar companies will maybe offer one or two different
manufacturers, and then maybe beyond that one or two different
sizes.”
When it comes to inverters, you do want to pay attention to whether your
quote includes string inverters, microinverters, or power optimizers. In
a system with a string inverter, your panels will all
be wired to one central inverter. This is generally the cheapest option,
but it is less durable and may need to be replaced, said Vernetti, whose
employer, Enphase, is the leading producer of microinverters. String
inverters can also limit the output of your system if part of the roof
gets more shade.
The other two options are more expensive but get around the issue with
shade. A system with power optimizers is similar to one
with a string inverter, but each panel will also have a small device
attached to it that regulates the output and maximizes your system’s
performance. By contrast, microinverters are small
inverters attached to each individual panel. Both of these options also
allow you to monitor each panel’s performance.
Bowie said the two were comparable in terms of performance and price. A
key consideration, he said, is that your choice of inverter can begin to
lock you into using the same brand of equipment on other home upgrades
you might do down the line. “If you’re an EnPhase customer, you’re
likely going to be going down the track of an EnPhase battery storage
system,” he said. “Whether the customers know it or not, they’re kind of
being pushed down a path towards this manufacturer for more things in
their home, like batteries, whole home controls, electric vehicle
charging.”
Pay close attention to the warranties
Your quote should provide information about warranties offered by the
manufacturers of the panels, inverters, and batteries, as well as by the
installation company. 25-year warranties are standard, but the details
vary by installation company and by manufacturer. For example, your
inverters may have a 25-year warranty, meaning you can get replacement
inverters for free if any of them fails within that time period — but if
you don’t have a warranty on labor, it could cost you several hundred
dollars to get them installed.
“It’s really important for customers to read the fine
print and to talk with their local solar company who is quoting the
system for them to uncover what the warranties mean,” said
Bowie.
This is especially important if you are installing batteries. Ask your
installer about both the equipment warranty and their policy is for
servicing the equipment.
Look into other financing options
Most solar installers offer financing options. Your quote should include
the name of the lender the installer works with, the down payment,
monthly payment, financing term, and interest rate. However, you may
find a better deal elsewhere. Horowitz noted that installers like using
their own financing companies because it speeds up the sales process —
they can approve you for a loan just by putting in your social security
number, and sell it to you at the same time as the contract. But you may
find a better deal elsewhere.
“Talk to your bank, talk to your credit union, look at
home equity lines of credit, see what other options you have out there,
and if those have lower interest rates or better payment terms,” said
Horowitz. “You are not required to use their
finance.”
WHAT’S NEXT?
After you’ve found an installer, settled on a system design, and secured
financing, all that’s left to do is sign your contract. Then, you wait.
Your installer will have to obtain permits from your city, county, or
state, as well as an interconnection agreement with your utility.
One way to try to minimize the wait time is by working with an installer
with lots of local experience. They’ll be better equipped to navigate
the permitting process. For example, if you want Tesla solar panels but
Tesla hasn’t done many installations in your community, it may take
longer for the company to get through this stage.
After these two steps are complete, the solar company will reach out to
you to schedule the installation, which should only take a few days.
After the system is installed, you may have to wait for a final
inspection from your utility or a verified third party for permission to
operate the system.
How
to Put Solar Panels on Your Roof: A Step-by-Step Guide
date: 2024-09-23, from: Heatmap News
Rooftop solar is not like other types of consumer technology. Even
though the end result is having a bunch of electrical equipment
installed on the roof of your home, the process of getting solar is more
like doing a bathroom renovation than buying a flat screen TV. To get
the results you’re looking for, the most important decisions you’ll make
are not the brand or model of the panels, but rather who you hire for
the job, the size of your system, and how you finance it.
There’s a bunch more choices you’ll have to navigate along the way, and
it’s easy to get overwhelmed. One expert I spoke with told me that
sometimes the customers who are the most excited about getting solar end
up bailing, the victims of decision fatigue.
We created this guide to save you from that fate. So take a deep breath,
take my hand, and let’s walk down the metaphorical hardware store aisle
and get you the rooftop solar solution you’re dreaming of.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Roger Horowitz is the director of Go
Solar programs at Solar United Neighbors, a national nonprofit that
serves as an unbiased resource for homeowners interested in solar.
Horowitz manages and provides technical support to the company’s Solar
Help Desk team.
Tony Vernetti is a senior trainer at
Enphase Energy, a company that produces inverters, batteries, and EV
chargers, where he trains solar sales and installation teams. Before
joining Enphase in 2020, Vernetti spent 12 years working for rooftop
solar companies in California.
Nate Bowieis the
vice president of residential sales at ReVision Energy, an
employee-owned solar company operating throughout northern New England.
Bowie has been selling solar for ReVision for 15 years.
While the actual installation of the system should only take one
to two days, the entire process from initial outreach to grid
connection takes two to four months on average,
according to Solar United Neighbors.
THE BASICS
Photovoltaic panels convert sunlight into electricity.
They come in different sizes and levels of efficiency.
Solar panel size is expressed in watts, which is a
measure of how much power each panel can generate in direct sunlight.
The system size is expressed in kilowatts. (1 kw =
1,000 watts.)
Example: The
highest
rated solar panels for 2024 according to EnergySage.com are
SunPower’s M-Series 440 watt model. If you install 20
of these, the system will be capable of generating 8,800
watts, or 8.8 kilowatts in direct sun.
When you receive a quote, you will also see an estimate for how much
power the system is expected to produce over the course of a year. This
will be expressed in kilowatt hours. (1 kilowatt hour
means your panel has generated 1 kilowatt for 1 hour.)
Inverters are a key component of the system that
convert the electricity the solar panels generate from direct current
(DC power) to alternating current (AC power), which is the kind you use
in your home. They are often called the “brain of the system” because
they also collect data on system performance and send it to your
monitoring system, an app you can use to track your
energy production and system status.
A battery, or energy storage system,
is an optional component that can store the electricity your solar
panels generate and dispatch it later. You can have rooftop solar with
or without a battery, but your solar panels will not provide backup
power during a blackout unless you have a battery. Most people get
batteries for resilience during an outage, but in some regions with
favorable policies, batteries can provide additional financial savings.
Net metering is a policy that allows
homeowners to sell excess power that their solar panels generate to
their utility. The rate at which homeowners are compensated varies in
every state, and can determine whether it is worth it to invest in
solar, and how quickly the payback period is.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Is solar energy free?
When you start searching for information about solar on the internet,
you might come across advertisements or commercials promoting free solar
panels. There is no such thing. These ads are typically schemes to
collect your personal data and sell it to solar companies looking for
leads, and the federal government is starting to
crack
down on them.
It is possible to install solar with
zero up-front costs if you lease the system or take out a loan to
finance it, but in both cases you will still owe monthly payments. It is
also rare that anyone is able to offset 100% of their utility bill. You
can get close, but you will likely still owe at least a connection fee
to your utility company.
I don’t live in the sun belt and my roof doesn’t face south. Is
solar still worth it?
Most homeowners in the U.S. can benefit from installing solar as long as
local energy policies are favorable. Placing the panels on a
south-facing roof is optimal, but not necessary. If your panels face due
west, you’ll only lose about 10% of potential generation, according to
Vernetti. “They still produce a ton of energy. They’re still very
effective. It’s just a little bit less than if they’re facing south,” he
said. An east-facing roof is also viable in most cases.
Does having rooftop solar require me to do anything?
You don’t have to worry about shoveling snow off the roof or anything
like that. But like any other electronic devices, solar panels,
inverters, and batteries can break or malfunction, and your system may
require servicing at some point. Pay close attention to your warranties
(more on that later). If you lease the system, you do not have to worry
about this as much because the third-party owner will be responsible for
maintenance.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Know your energy consumption history
In order to design a system that meets your needs and budget, solar
companies will ask for a copy of your most recent electricity bill or,
ideally, your annual energy consumption history. Make sure you have this
information handy before you reach out for quotes.
Where do I find my energy consumption history?
Some utilities include your annual energy consumption, broken out by
month, at the bottom of your electric bill. If you don’t see it, you
should be able to log into your utility account online and download
either your statements from the past year or a spreadsheet of your
monthly electric meter readings.
Consider leasing versus owning
In most of the U.S., you will find you have the option either to lease
your solar panels or buy them outright. You don’t have to decide which
way you want to go before you get started, but it’s helpful to think
through the pros and cons of each.
Pros and Cons of Leasing vs. Buying
Pros of Leasing: Typically zero up-front cost; you
don’t have to worry about maintenance.
Cons of Leasing: You won’t save as much money on your
monthly energy bills; it can complicate the process of selling your
house, as you may have to pay out the rest of your lease at once or find
a buyer who is willing to take it over.
Heatmap Recommends leasing if: You’re fairly certain
you’ll keep your house for the next 15 to 20 years; you can’t afford the
system outright, but you don’t want to take out a loan; your priority is
to generate clean energy and reduce emissions, but you don’t want to
spend too much time figuring out what you want or worrying about the
system’s maintenance.
Pros of Buying: You will benefit from the full savings
the system generates each month; you can take advantage of tax credits
and rebates to help with the up-front cost; it increases your home’s
value.
Cons of Buying: Can cost tens of thousands of dollars;
high interest rates (as of 2024) make loans less attractive; you may be
responsible for paying for any maintenance or repairs depending on your
warranties.
Heatmap Recommends buying if: You have the cash in
hand; you might sell your house in the next 20 years; you know you want
to have control over the details of your project.
Learn about incentives
The federal government offers a 30% tax credit for solar installations
(and batteries) that covers parts and labor. It can significantly reduce
the cost of getting solar, even if you don’t have a lot of tax liability
in the year that you install the system. The credit will roll over to
subsequent tax years.
Example: If you spend $25,000 installing solar in 2024,
you’ll be eligible to take $7,500 off your federal income tax bill. If
you only owe $3,000 in federal taxes in 2024, you’ll get $3,000 back and
will be eligible to claim the remaining $4,500 for the 2025 tax year. If
in 2025 you only owe $3,000 again, you can claim the remaining $1,500 in
2026.
Additional tax credits and rebates may also be offered by your state
energy office, city, or utility. Contractors should be able to help you
figure out what you’re eligible for, and you can wait to talk to them to
learn more. However, incentives change frequently, and contractors don’t
always keep up, so you might want to review the options in your area
independently.
It will also be helpful to understand your state’s net
metering policy, as that will determine how quickly your
investment in solar will pay off and may also dictate how big your
system can be. Some states, like New Jersey, also allow homeowners to
generate additional income through the sale of solar renewable
energy credits, or SRECS.
Where to look for more information:
The
Database
of State Incentives for Renewables & Efficiency is a great
place to start, although it may not list county- or city-specific
subsidies. Enter your zip code and filter the results by “Eligible
Sector > Residential.”
Check with your state energy office or local sustainability office. They
may have a helpline, or have information about upcoming webinars or
in-person educational events.
One of the worst things that could happen is you install rooftop solar
panels, and then later find out you have a leak or some other problem
with your roof. “Removal and replacement of an array for a reroof is
expensive and could significantly impact the owner’s return on
investment,” Bowie told me. While metal roofs last a very long time and
are unlikely to need a replacement, asphalt shingle roofs generally have
a useful life of 25 to 30 years, Bowie said. You should be fine if your
roof is less than 10 years old, but if not, you may need some roofing
work done before your solar panels are installed.
If you don’t know how old your roof is, Vernetti recommended having a
roofing contractor inspect it. He added that there’s varying opinions on
this, with some solar experts recommending replacement if the roof is
only 5 years old. “In my opinion, scrapping a 5 year old roof is
wasteful and goes against the goal of sustainability,” he said.
“A good solar contractor will help evaluate the roof conditions and
should recommend replacement when necessary, even if it is just to
replace the roof on the roof plane where the solar panels will go,” said
Bowie.
Solar contractors range from local mom and pop shops, to regional
providers like ReVision Solar, which operates in multiple states in the
Northeast, to national companies that install across the country like
SunRun and Sunnova.
“The advantage of going with a large company is that
they have the ability to offer financing the smaller companies might not
be able to. With a regional company, you can actually walk to their
office and knock on the door and talk to somebody if you want to,” said
Vernetti.
Heatmap Recommends: Contact at least one local company
and one national company to get a good sense of your options. Always get
at least three quotes!
Here are a few strategies for finding solar contractors, in order of
what we recommend:
Talk to your friends, family, and neighbors that have solar. Were they
happy with their experience? Which companies did they talk to? Who did
they decide to work with and why?
Check if your state energy office or utility has an online directory of
local solar installers. If your town or city has a sustainability
office, try that, too.
Try using
EnergySage,
which will have you enter your address and monthly energy usage and then
source quotes for you from installers that serve your area. (Note: Treat
these quotes as a starting place, as the companies may not have all of
the information they need to make fully informed estimates.)
Some solar manufacturers, including
Tesla
and
REC,
have their own certified networks of installers. You can get a quote and
get connected to local installers directly through their websites.
What to look for when you reach out for quotes:
If you are calling installers directly, here are some tips for what you
should ask for or look for in a quote. (If you are using an online
resource like EnergySage that finds quotes for you, use the following to
help you ask follow-up questions or refine the proposals.)
Vet the company
A few questions you should ask:
How long have you been in business? Solar is a tough
business, and many companies go under within a few years. You want to
make sure your installer has proven longevity so that they can help you
in the future if any issues arise.
Are your employees certified with the North American Board of
Certified Energy Practitioners? NABCEP is an accreditation
organization for renewable energy professionals. It costs money for
individuals and companies to get certified, and it shouldn’t necessarily
be a dealbreaker if your installer is not certified. However, those
certified by NABCEP must meet minimum professional experience and
training requirements, so it’s a helpful data point.
Know what size system you want
One of the first questions an installer might ask you is how big you
want the system to be. You may want to see quotes for multiple options
in order to compare them. Options include:
Matching the system to your average annual energy use
Oversizing the system to generate more power than you typically use in a
year
Undersizing the system to generate less power than you use in a year
Heatmap Recommends: Oversize your system if you can
afford it.
Why?
Many homeowners find that once they get solar panels, they start to use
more energy, Vernetti said. Because it lowers your electricity bills,
you might be more inclined to crank the A/C or keep the lights on. An
oversized system will protect against that risk and lead to more
savings.
If you’re reading this guide, you’re probably interested in other home
decarbonization technologies like electric heat pumps or electric
vehicles, both of which will increase your future electricity use. Think
about what other electric appliances you might invest in over the next
decade or so and size your system to meet that need. (If you have a big
roof, expanding your system later may also be an option.)
Exceptions:
Some utilities will not allow you to oversize your system. (Your
installer should know if that will be an issue for you.)
Oversizing is more expensive. If you can’t afford it right now, you can
always add more panels to your system later as long as you have more
roof space.
Undersizing the system may make financial sense in some states depending
on residential solar policy.
Understand your financing options
Most installers will include a financing option in their quote. Horowitz
noted that some installers advertise very low interest rates that are
below market rate. They are typically able to do this by paying a
“dealer fee” to the bank, which they incorporate into the price of your
installation — in other words, if your interest rate seems too good to
be true, the total cost of your installation will likely be higher than
it otherwise would be. To get a better sense of the true cost, ask for
quotes both with and without financing options.
Consider a battery
Adding energy storage, a.k.a. a battery, to your solar array can add
another 10 grand or more to the project cost. But there are a few
reasons it might be worth it:
You want backup power during a blackout. As I
mentioned earlier, solar panels alone won’t power your house when the
grid is down. But if you have a battery, you can store the energy they
generate and use it to power essential systems like your refrigerator
and air conditioner during an outage. Note that you will not save
additional money with a battery, unless…
Your utility offers time-of-use rates If what you pay for electricity varies throughout the day or
your utility offers an option to switch to this kind of pricing scheme,
then a battery will enable you to arbitrage prices by tapping into your
stash of electrons when prices hit their peak. Ask your contractor if
they can help set the battery to maximize your bill savings. Aligning
with time-of-use pricing doesn’t necessarily maximize your
carbon savings, however. For that, look into…
Grid services or virtual power plant
programs In some jurisdictions, you can
sign up to give your utility or a third party the ability to take
control of your battery and charge it or discharge it strategically to
help the electric grid. For example, when demand is expected to peak on
a hot summer day, these programs might discharge thousands of
residential batteries in order to prevent the utility from having to
deploy dirty (and expensive) “peaker” plants, which are usually powered
by natural gas or oil. These programs offer either up-front rebates for
batteries or will pay you for your participation, or both. The key thing
is you have to buy a battery that’s compatible with the program.
In conclusion, if you just want back-up power, any battery that’s large
enough to power your essential systems should do. If you want to pay off
the investment, look into time-of-use rates. If you want your investment
to go further for decarbonization, ask your contractor if there are
local grid services programs available, and if any of their products are
compatible.
YOU HAVE THREE QUOTES. NOW WHAT?
After you get a few quotes, you’re going to want to spend some time
comparing them, asking questions, and potentially soliciting additional
quotes with variations on the system. If you’re feeling overwhelmed or
you don’t have the time or patience to sort through the details on your
own, you can also call the Solar United Neighbors Help Desk, which
offers a free quote review service.
Compare the price per watt
The most important number on the quote is the price per
watt, not the total system cost. That is the number you should
be comparing between different installers, as the quotes may be for
differently sized systems.
You should also compare the annual bill savings. If two
different companies quote you significantly different savings for
systems that are roughly the same size, one of them has likely done a
more detailed analysis of your roof than the other.
“It doesn’t matter what module you have, from which
manufacturer, or what inverter you have. There really is no difference
in what your system can produce if it’s the same size,” said
Bowie.
Lastly, if the quote is for a solar lease, or includes a financing
option, look at themonthly payments.
Compare the equipment
Every installer has certain brands and types of equipment they work
with. Our expert panel agreed that it’s important to look at the brand
names the installer is offering for the solar panels, inverters, and
batteries, and to make sure they are from reputable companies that have
been around for at least five years — even if it means paying more. A
quick internet search of the top 10 residential solar panel brands
should give you
a
taste of what those companies are.
“It is definitely worth paying a little bit extra to
have really good equipment,” Vernetti said.
You may also see installers advertise that they offer “Tier 1” solar
panels. That means the manufacturer has been
designated
“bankable” by Bloomberg New Energy Finance. The designation is
more related to finance than product quality, but many solar companies
use it as a rough proxy for reliability.
That being said, don’t get too bogged down in comparing solar brands.
“There’s not a huge difference, typically, between one
solar panel and the next of the Tier 1 manufacturers,” said Bowie. “A
lot of solar companies will maybe offer one or two different
manufacturers, and then maybe beyond that one or two different
sizes.”
When it comes to inverters, you do want to pay attention to whether your
quote includes string inverters, microinverters, or power optimizers. In
a system with a string inverter, your panels will all
be wired to one central inverter. This is generally the cheapest option,
but it is less durable and may need to be replaced, said Vernetti, whose
employer, Enphase, is the leading producer of microinverters. String
inverters can also limit the output of your system if part of the roof
gets more shade.
The other two options are more expensive but get around the issue with
shade. A system with power optimizers is similar to one
with a string inverter, but each panel will also have a small device
attached to it that regulates the output and maximizes your system’s
performance. By contrast, microinverters are small
inverters attached to each individual panel. Both of these options also
allow you to monitor each panel’s performance.
Bowie said the two were comparable in terms of performance and price. A
key consideration, he said, is that your choice of inverter can begin to
lock you into using the same brand of equipment on other home upgrades
you might do down the line. “If you’re an EnPhase customer, you’re
likely going to be going down the track of an EnPhase battery storage
system,” he said. “Whether the customers know it or not, they’re kind of
being pushed down a path towards this manufacturer for more things in
their home, like batteries, whole home controls, electric vehicle
charging.”
Pay close attention to the warranties
Your quote should provide information about warranties offered by the
manufacturers of the panels, inverters, and batteries, as well as by the
installation company. 25-year warranties are standard, but the details
vary by installation company and by manufacturer. For example, your
inverters may have a 25-year warranty, meaning you can get replacement
inverters for free if any of them fails within that time period — but if
you don’t have a warranty on labor, it could cost you several hundred
dollars to get them installed.
“It’s really important for customers to read the fine
print and to talk with their local solar company who is quoting the
system for them to uncover what the warranties mean,” said
Bowie.
This is especially important if you are installing batteries. Ask your
installer about both the equipment warranty and their policy is for
servicing the equipment.
Look into other financing options
Most solar installers offer financing options. Your quote should include
the name of the lender the installer works with, the down payment,
monthly payment, financing term, and interest rate. However, you may
find a better deal elsewhere. Horowitz noted that installers like using
their own financing companies because it speeds up the sales process —
they can approve you for a loan just by putting in your social security
number, and sell it to you at the same time as the contract. But you may
find a better deal elsewhere.
“Talk to your bank, talk to your credit union, look at
home equity lines of credit, see what other options you have out there,
and if those have lower interest rates or better payment terms,” said
Horowitz. “You are not required to use their
finance.”
WHAT’S NEXT?
After you’ve found an installer, settled on a system design, and secured
financing, all that’s left to do is sign your contract. Then, you wait.
Your installer will have to obtain permits from your city, county, or
state, as well as an interconnection agreement with your utility.
One way to try to minimize the wait time is by working with an installer
with lots of local experience. They’ll be better equipped to navigate
the permitting process. For example, if you want Tesla solar panels but
Tesla hasn’t done many installations in your community, it may take
longer for the company to get through this stage.
After these two steps are complete, the solar company will reach out to
you to schedule the installation, which should only take a few days.
After the system is installed, you may have to wait for a final
inspection from your utility or a verified third party for permission to
operate the system.
An energy-efficient home needs energy-efficient lightbulbs and air
conditioners and refrigerators and other gadgets to fill it up. But it
all starts with the structure itself. That’s why we recommend you take a
good, hard look at your walls, ceiling, floors, windows, doors, roof,
and electrical wiring as a first step towards decarbonizing your home
life. (Embarking on a renovation? Heatmap has a
guide
for that.)
When you add air sealing and insulation, get energy efficient windows,
or a cool roof that reflects heat back into the environment, you’re
either preventing heat from entering or escaping. This stabilizes your
indoor air temperature, thereby reducing your heating and cooling loads,
which
account
for 55% of a household’s total energy use, on average. Making
these improvements is not only good for the environment, it’s also a
boon to your quality of life. Plus, it allows you to get the most bang
out of one of Heatmap’s other favorite decarbonization upgrades:
replacing
your furnace with an electric heat pump, which operates most
efficiently in a well-insulated home.
And lest we forget the electrification upgrades, they’re certainly a
different beast than the aforementioned ways to seal up your house. But
adding new electrical circuits is a prerequisite to installing
energy-efficient appliances such as electric stoves, dryers, heat pumps,
heat pump water heaters, or EV chargers. And depending how much space is
on your electric panel, you might need to upgrade that too.
None of the investments mentioned here (often referred to as
weatherization upgrades) will directly decarbonize your space.
Insulating your attic won’t free you from fossil fuels, and installing
new wiring doesn’t actually electrify anything in and of itself,
although they will lower your energy-related emissions. But what these
renovations do do is prime you to consume less energy
at home just keeping yourself comfortable.
“The weather that you can expect to see where you live is changing over
time and changing in a pretty unpredictable manner,” Michael Gartman, a
manager at RMI on their carbon-free buildings team, told me. “The
benefit of weatherization, unlike some of the other decarbonization
measures that you might be thinking about, is it really just shelters
you from whatever that change means over time.”
None of this sounds very thrilling, I know. These types of upgrades
certainly won’t lead to the same oohs and ahhs that you’d get for buying
a shiny new electric vehicle or induction stove. “You often can’t see
weatherization after it’s been completed, and even if you can, I don’t
think many people are going to be taking guests into their basement and
pointing at their floor joists and saying, look at all that
insulation,” Gartman told me.
Probably not, but once folks spend some time inside your house, the
benefits will become apparent in cooler summer days and cozier winter
nights — and lower energy bills. “Even if it’s not sexy, that’s
something that you’re going to feel every year that you’re in your
home,” Gartman said.
These upgrades that you’re considering — and the attendant reductions in
energy use — will have impacts that ripple out beyond your home’s walls
and onto the grid at large. After all,
residential
energy consumption makes up 21% of total energy use in the U.S.,
and 15% of total emissions.
“Weatherization can reduce peak demand on the grid, which reduces the
likelihood of the grid going down in the coldest winter nights or
hottest summer days,” Gartman told me. This makes the grid greener, too,
as utilities often meet demand spikes by calling on fossil fuel sources
such as gas plants, which can ramp up and down quickly. A smoother
demand curve can thereby increase the share of renewables in the mix.
And in the case that the grid does fail and the power goes out, a fully
weatherized home is a safer home, protecting you and your family from
the elements for as long as possible.
Depending on what weatherization measures you go with, as well as your
specific circumstances, your savings could eventually surpass your
upfront costs. The upgrade that’s most likely to pay for itself is air
sealing and insulation, which can lead to
energy
bills that are 10% to 20% smaller, leading to net savings in
just
a few years. The
Green
Building Alliance says cool roofs — which are not suited to
every environment — can also pay for themselves in as little as six
years. And while complete window replacements are a particularly pricey
upgrade, if you opt for storm windows that are installed on top of an
existing window, you could see
payback
as soon as three years time post-installation.
No matter what you choose to do, the absolute best time to do it is when
prices are low — and when it comes to energy efficiency upgrades, the
discounts have arrived. “A lot of energy performance improvements to
houses right now are on sale, and they’re going to be on sale until the
end of the decade,” Eric Werling, former national director of the
Department of Energy’s Zero Energy Ready Homes program, told me. He’s
referencing the
$1,200
federal tax credit for weatherization, which is available now,
and the
home
efficiency and
electrification
rebates that will be rolling out this year and next.
But even with this years-long sale, we know that the upfront costs can
be tough to shoulder. So don’t feel pressure to drop thousands in the
name of decarbonization right now. If you stay in your
spot long enough, you’ll eventually need to undertake at least a few
home improvement projects. “Anytime anybody does a renovation project or
fixes a problem in the house,” Werling told me, “I implore them to think
about, is there an opportunity for me to make improvements to the house
that will pay for themselves in utility cost savings, but also improve
the health and safety and comfort of the house that we live in?”
You’ll find the answer is often yes, and we encourage you to let your
friends, family, and neighbors know about it. Because while we trust
that you, as a reader, care deeply about the climate, you don’t actually
need to give a hoot to benefit from energy efficiency upgrades. As
Werling put it, “It’s just not about energy, and it’s just not about the
climate. It’s about your home.”
An energy-efficient home needs energy-efficient lightbulbs and air
conditioners and refrigerators and other gadgets to fill it up. But it
all starts with the structure itself. That’s why we recommend you take a
good, hard look at your walls, ceiling, floors, windows, doors, roof,
and electrical wiring as a first step towards decarbonizing your home
life. (Embarking on a renovation? Heatmap has a
guide
for that.)
When you add air sealing and insulation, get energy efficient windows,
or a cool roof that reflects heat back into the environment, you’re
either preventing heat from entering or escaping. This stabilizes your
indoor air temperature, thereby reducing your heating and cooling loads,
which
account
for 55% of a household’s total energy use, on average. Making
these improvements is not only good for the environment, it’s also a
boon to your quality of life. Plus, it allows you to get the most bang
out of one of Heatmap’s other favorite decarbonization upgrades:
replacing
your furnace with an electric heat pump, which operates most
efficiently in a well-insulated home.
And lest we forget the electrification upgrades, they’re certainly a
different beast than the aforementioned ways to seal up your house. But
adding new electrical circuits is a prerequisite to installing
energy-efficient appliances such as electric stoves, dryers, heat pumps,
heat pump water heaters, or EV chargers. And depending how much space is
on your electric panel, you might need to upgrade that too.
None of the investments mentioned here (often referred to as
weatherization upgrades) will directly decarbonize your space.
Insulating your attic won’t free you from fossil fuels, and installing
new wiring doesn’t actually electrify anything in and of itself,
although they will lower your energy-related emissions. But what these
renovations do do is prime you to consume less energy
at home just keeping yourself comfortable.
“The weather that you can expect to see where you live is changing over
time and changing in a pretty unpredictable manner,” Michael Gartman, a
manager at RMI on their carbon-free buildings team, told me. “The
benefit of weatherization, unlike some of the other decarbonization
measures that you might be thinking about, is it really just shelters
you from whatever that change means over time.”
None of this sounds very thrilling, I know. These types of upgrades
certainly won’t lead to the same oohs and ahhs that you’d get for buying
a shiny new electric vehicle or induction stove. “You often can’t see
weatherization after it’s been completed, and even if you can, I don’t
think many people are going to be taking guests into their basement and
pointing at their floor joists and saying, look at all that
insulation,” Gartman told me.
Probably not, but once folks spend some time inside your house, the
benefits will become apparent in cooler summer days and cozier winter
nights — and lower energy bills. “Even if it’s not sexy, that’s
something that you’re going to feel every year that you’re in your
home,” Gartman said.
These upgrades that you’re considering — and the attendant reductions in
energy use — will have impacts that ripple out beyond your home’s walls
and onto the grid at large. After all,
residential
energy consumption makes up 21% of total energy use in the U.S.,
and 15% of total emissions.
“Weatherization can reduce peak demand on the grid, which reduces the
likelihood of the grid going down in the coldest winter nights or
hottest summer days,” Gartman told me. This makes the grid greener, too,
as utilities often meet demand spikes by calling on fossil fuel sources
such as gas plants, which can ramp up and down quickly. A smoother
demand curve can thereby increase the share of renewables in the mix.
And in the case that the grid does fail and the power goes out, a fully
weatherized home is a safer home, protecting you and your family from
the elements for as long as possible.
Depending on what weatherization measures you go with, as well as your
specific circumstances, your savings could eventually surpass your
upfront costs. The upgrade that’s most likely to pay for itself is air
sealing and insulation, which can lead to
energy
bills that are 10% to 20% smaller, leading to net savings in
just
a few years. The
Green
Building Alliance says cool roofs — which are not suited to
every environment — can also pay for themselves in as little as six
years. And while complete window replacements are a particularly pricey
upgrade, if you opt for storm windows that are installed on top of an
existing window, you could see
payback
as soon as three years time post-installation.
No matter what you choose to do, the absolute best time to do it is when
prices are low — and when it comes to energy efficiency upgrades, the
discounts have arrived. “A lot of energy performance improvements to
houses right now are on sale, and they’re going to be on sale until the
end of the decade,” Eric Werling, former national director of the
Department of Energy’s Zero Energy Ready Homes program, told me. He’s
referencing the
$1,200
federal tax credit for weatherization, which is available now,
and the
home
efficiency and
electrification
rebates that will be rolling out this year and next.
But even with this years-long sale, we know that the upfront costs can
be tough to shoulder. So don’t feel pressure to drop thousands in the
name of decarbonization right now. If you stay in your
spot long enough, you’ll eventually need to undertake at least a few
home improvement projects. “Anytime anybody does a renovation project or
fixes a problem in the house,” Werling told me, “I implore them to think
about, is there an opportunity for me to make improvements to the house
that will pay for themselves in utility cost savings, but also improve
the health and safety and comfort of the house that we live in?”
You’ll find the answer is often yes, and we encourage you to let your
friends, family, and neighbors know about it. Because while we trust
that you, as a reader, care deeply about the climate, you don’t actually
need to give a hoot to benefit from energy efficiency upgrades. As
Werling put it, “It’s just not about energy, and it’s just not about the
climate. It’s about your home.”
When you think about ways to decarbonize, your mind will likely go
straight to shiny new machines — an electric vehicle, solar panels, or
an induction stove, perhaps. But let’s not forget the low-tech,
low-hanging fruit: your home itself.
Adding insulation, fixing any gaps, cracks or leaks where air can get
out, and perhaps installing energy efficient windows and doors are the
necessary first steps to decarbonizing at home — though you may also
want to consider a light-colored “cool roof,” which reflects sunlight to
keep the home comfortable, and electric panel and wiring upgrades to
support broader electrification efforts.
Getting started on one or multiple of these retrofits can be daunting —
there’s lingo to be learned, audits to be performed, and various
incentives to navigate. Luckily, Heatmap is here to help.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Cora Wyent is the Director of
Research at Rewiring America, where she conducts research and analysis
on how to rapidly electrify the entire economy.
Joseph Lstiburek is the founding
principal at the Building Science Corporation, a consulting firm focused
on designing and constructing energy efficient, durable, and economic
buildings.
Lucy de Barbaro is the founder and
director of Energy Efficiency Empowerment, a Pittsburgh-based
organization that seeks to transform the home renovation process and
help low and middle-income homeowners make energy efficiency
improvements.
Claim your tax credits for the year in which the
work was completed
THE BASICS
The whole process you’re about to embark on is known as
weatherization or weatherproofing.
Essentially what you’re doing is sealing off your home, so that
whatever’s going on outside has little to no effect on the conditions
inside.
When contractors refer to your home envelope, they’re
talking about anything related to your home’s exterior, including the
roof, walls, floors, windows, and doors. You may hear many energy
efficiency upgrades referred to as “home envelope upgrades,” as well.
U-Value or U-Factor is a measurement
of how well a window, door, or skylight insulates. The lower the
U-Value, the better insulating these products are.
How much heat passes through a window, door, or skylight and into the
home is quantified as the solar heat gain coefficient, or
SHGC, on a scale of zero to one. Lower SHGC values are better
for hot climates and higher values are better for cold climates.
The higher the R-value of a particular insulation
material, the more effective it is. What R-Value you go with will depend
on the climate you live in, what part of the house you are insulating,
and whether any insulation already exists.
Dense packing is an insulation method also known as
“drill and fill,” which refers to blowing loose fiber insulation into a
wall at high pressure. For homes that are already built, many experts
recommend using dense pack cellulose insulation, as
it’s cheap, effective, and environmentally friendly.
Roofs covered in light-colored roofing materials to reflect sunlight
away from the home are known as cool roofs. They reduce
the amount of energy it takes to cool your home on a hot day, but
increase the energy needed to heat your home in the winter.
A roof’s ability to return solar heat to the atmosphere is measured by
its Solar Reflectance Index. Most roofing materials
have an SRI value between 0 and 100 (higher numbers indicate better
performance), although it’s possible to have values outside this range.
This number is a combination of two measurements, “solar reflectance”
and “thermal emittance.” When comparing roofing products, the SRI is the
main thing to check.
When choosing insulation, doors, windows, etc., you’ll need to know your
climate zone, which is essentially what the weather is
like in the area where you live, based on temperature, humidity, and
rainfall. The zones that pertain to insulation and cool roofs are more
specific than the zones for windows, doors, and skylights.
The amount of electric current moving through a circuit is measured in
amps, short for amperes. You’ll hear
this used when discussing electrical upgrades. For example an 100-amp
panel represents the maximum amount of current your home can handle at
any given moment.
An electrical load refers to any device or appliance
that consumes electricity, and by proxy, the amount of power required to
run it. It is measured in watts. So an EV charger could
be a 7,200 watt load, and a dishwasher could be about 2,000 watts. When
discussing electrical upgrades, you’ll likely hear about the load on a
particular circuit.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Do I still need insulation if I live in a warm climate?
Definitively, yes! When people hear the word “insulation” they often
think of how it can protect them from the cold. And while it certainly
does do that, insulation’s overall role is to slow the transfer of heat
both out of your home when it’s chilly and into your
home when it’s hot. That means you won’t need to use your air
conditioning as much during those scorching summer days
or your furnace as much when the temperatures drop.
Would I benefit from energy efficient upgrades if my home is
relatively new?
Quite possibly! The most definitive way to know if your home could be
improved by weatherization is by getting a home energy audit —- more on
that below. While a specific level of insulation is required for all
newly constructed homes, these codes and standards are updated
frequently. So if you’re feeling uncomfortable in your living space, or
if you think your heating and cooling bills are unusually high, it’s
definitely worth seeing what an expert thinks. And if you’re interested
in getting electric appliances like a heat pump or induction stove, some
wiring upgrades will almost certainly be necessary.
I already have energy efficient appliances in my home, so what’s the
benefit of weatherization?
Energy efficient appliances like electric heat pumps or induction stoves
are fantastic ways to decarbonize your life, but serve a fundamentally
different purpose than most of the upgrades that we’re going to talk
about here. When you get better air sealing, insulation, windows, or
doors, what you’re doing is essentially regulating the temperature of
your home, making you less reliant on energy intensive heating and
cooling systems. And while this can certainly lead to savings on your
energy bill and a positive impact on the environment at large, these
upgrades will also allow you to simply live more comfortably.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Get a home energy audit
This is the starting point for making informed decisions about any
energy efficiency upgrades that you’re considering. During a home energy
audit, a certified auditor (sometimes also referred to as an energy
assessor or rater or verifier) will inspect your home to identify both
the highest-impact and most cost-effective upgrades you can make,
including how much you stand to save on your energy bills by doing so.
Wyent told me checking with your local utility is a good place to start,
as many offer low-cost audits. Even if your utility doesn’t do energy
assessments, they may be able to point you in the direction of local
auditors or state-level resources and directories. The
Residential
Energy Services Network also provides a directory of certified
assessors searchable by location, as does the
Department
of Energy’s Energy Score program, though neither list is
comprehensive.
Audits typically cost between $200 and $700 depending on your home’s
location, size, and type, as well as the scope of the audit. Homeowners
can claim 30% of the
cost
of their audit on their federal taxes, up to $150. To be
eligible, make sure you find a certified home energy auditor. The DOE
provides
a list of recognized certification programs.
Important: Make sure the auditor performs both a
blower
door test and a
thermographic
inspection. These diagnostic tools are
key to determining where air leakage and heat loss/gain is occurring.
Important!
At the end of the audit, your auditor should provide you with a written
report that includes their business employer identification number as
well as an attestation that they’re certified by a qualified
certification program.
Keep this for your tax records!
Learn about incentives
Your energy audit isn’t the only thing eligible for a credit.
The
25C Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit allows homeowners
to claim up to 30% of the cost of a variety of home upgrades, up to a
combined total of $1,200 per year. This covers upgrading your
insulation, windows, doors, skylights, electrical wiring, and/or
electrical panel. Getting an energy audit is also included in this
category.
While $1,200 is the max amount you can claim for all retrofits combined,
certain renovations come with their own specific limitations. Let’s
break it down:
Insulation and air sealing: 30% up to $1,200 total, no
additional limits. Labor costs don’t apply.
Exterior doors: 30% up to $250 per door, total limit of
$500 for all doors combined. Labor costs don’t apply.
Exterior windows/skylights: 30% up to $600 total. Labor
costs don’t apply.
Electrical upgrades: 30% up to $600 total for
panelboards and other electrical equipment with a capacity of at least
200 amps. Needs to be installed in tandem with other energy efficiency
upgrades or qualifying energy appliances (such as a heat pump or central
air conditioner). Labor costs do apply for the credit.
Home energy audit: 30% up to $150.
Roof: Currently, roof upgrades are not eligible for
this tax credit or other federal incentives.
Example: If you spend $500 on one door, 30% of that, or
$150, is eligible for a tax credit. If you spend $2,000 on two doors,
only $500 will be eligible.
State and local incentives:
The Biden administration is in the process of funding the
state-administered
Home
Electrification and Appliance Rebates, which provide low and
moderate income households with up to $1,600 for weatherization
upgrades, $4,000 for electric panel upgrades, and $2,500 for electric
wiring upgrades. So far, rebate programs have been launched in New York
and Wisconsin. Your state could be next!
The
Home
Efficiency Rebates are another state-administered program that
will reward retrofits based on their modeled or measured level of energy
savings. They are expected to roll out in 2025.
One program that is active today for low-income homeowners and renters
is the
Weatherization
Assistance Program, which provides free weatherization services
to qualifying families and individuals. If you think you might be
eligible, definitely check it out.
For cool roofs specifically, you can
consult
this list of state and local-level rebates and other incentives.
Depending on where you live, there may be additional state and local
incentives, and we suggest asking your contractor what you are eligible
for. But since incentive programs change frequently, it’s a good idea to
do your own research too. Get acquainted with
Energy
Star, a joint program run by the Environmental Protection Agency
and the DOE which provides information on energy efficient products,
practices, and standards. On Energy Star’s website, you can
search
by zip code for utility rebates that can help you save on
insulation, windows, and electrical work.
“Starting by looking at your local utility programs can
be a great resource too, because utilities offer rebates or incentives
for weatherizing your home or installing a new roof,” said
Wyent.
Consider your long-term goals
Everyone wants to minimize the number of times they break open or drill
into their walls. To that end, it’s useful to plan out
all the upgrades you might want to get done over the
next five to 10 years to figure out where efficiency might fit in.
Some primary examples: Installing appliances like a heat pump, induction
stove, or Level 2 EV charger (all of which you can read more about in
our
other
guides) often require electrical upgrades. Even if you don’t plan to
get any of these new appliances now, pre-wiring your home to prepare for
their installation (with the exception of a heat pump — see our heat
pump guide for more info on that) will save you money later on.
De Barbaro also notes that if you’re planning to repaint your walls
anytime soon, this would also be a convenient time to add insulation, as
that involves drilling holes which then need to be patched and repainted
anyway. Likewise, if you were already planning to replace your home’s
siding, this would be a natural time to insulate. Finally, if you’re
planning to get a heat pump in the coming years, getting better
insulation now will ensure this system is maximally effective.
Conversely, if you’re cash-strapped, spreading out electrical and
weatherization upgrades over the course of a few years allows you to
claim the full $1,200 tax credit every year. Whether those tax savings
are enough to cover the added contractor time and clean-up costs,
though, will depend on the particulars of your situation.
“Come in with a plan and talk to the contractor about
everything that you want to do in the future, not just immediately,”
said Wyent.
Unlike solar installers, which are often associated with large regional
and national companies, the world of weatherization and electrical
upgrades is often much more localized, meaning you’ll need to do a bit
of legwork to verify that the contractors and installers you come across
are reliable.
Wyent told me she typically starts by asking friends, family, and
neighbors for references, as well as turning to Google and Yelp reviews.
Depending on where you live and what type of work you want done, your
local utility may also offer incentives for weatherization and
electrification upgrades, and can possibly provide a list of prescreened
contractors who are licensed and insured for this type of work.
What to ask all contractors and installers
These questions will help you vet contractors and gain a better
understanding of their process regardless of the type of renovation
you’re pursuing.
How long have you been in business? If you’re hiring a
local company, you’ll want to ensure that they’ve been around long
enough to establish a reputation. That way you can gather references and
ask friends and neighbors if they’ve worked with them before.
What is the timeline for completion of this project, and when
would you be able to start? This will vary widely by project
type and scope, but you should ask your contractor to include a timeline
as a part of their initial quote — and, most importantly, as a part of
your final contract, if you get there. Having this in writing should
help keep everyone accountable.
What is your expected work schedule, and can I stay in my home
during these renovations? Certain projects can be loud and
disruptive, even if only for a few hours. Gauging just how disruptive
can allow you to plan ahead and get out of the house if need be.
What type of warranty do you offer for your work? This
ensures that if a renovation is performed incorrectly, it will be fixed
free of charge. The products themselves have their own separate
warranties, which you should also be aware of.
Will you work with subcontractors? Clarify who is your
point of contact for the project, and make sure the contractor’s
insurance covers subcontractors as well.
Will these retrofits require a permit? If so, who will be in
charge of securing that? Depending on where you live and what
types of retrofits and upgrades you’re planning, obtaining a permit
might be necessary. Ensuring that your contractor understands the
nuances of local regulations and permitting processes is key.
What is your payment schedule? Often you may be
expected to pay a contractor or installer an upfront deposit. Clarify
how much that will be to make sure there are no surprises, and stay away
from contractors who request full payment upfront.
Will you conduct a site visit in order to get a more accurate
cost and scope of work estimate? This can help you and your
contractor or installer ensure that you’re on the same page about what
makes the most sense for your home. Ask whether the site visit will be
free or if there’s a consultation fee.
Will you use products and materials that are eligible for the
Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit? You’ll want to let
your contractor know up front that you would like to take advantage of
this credit so that you can work with them to choose products that meet
the required standards.
Do you know of any state or local energy efficiency incentives I
might be eligible for? Make sure you’re taking advantage of all
the cost savings available to you! Not all contractors will be up to
date on the latest programs, though, so do your own research.
Common wisdom says you should always get three quotes.
But that doesn’t mean you should automatically choose the cheapest
option. Lstiburek says the old adage applies: “If it sounds too good to
be true, it’s probably too good to be true.” Be sure that your
contractors and installers are properly licensed and insured and read
the fine print of your contract. Beyond this, how to find qualified
professionals and what to ask largely depends on the type of upgrade you
are pursuing. So let’s break it down, starting with the biggest bang for
your buck.
Air Sealing and Insulation
Air sealing and insulating your home is usually the number one way to
increase its energy efficiency.
Energy
Star says nine out of 10 homes are underinsulated, and many also
have significant air leaks. In general, homes lose more heating and
cooling energy through walls and attics than through windows and doors,
so air sealing and adding insulation
in
key areas should be your first priority.
“People don’t realize how collectively, small holes
everywhere add up. So on average here in Pennsylvania, typically those
holes would add up to the surface of three sheets of paper, continuously
open to the outdoors,” said de Barbaro.
Determining where air is escaping is the purpose of the
blower
door test and the
thermographic
inspection, so after your energy audit you should have a good
idea of where to begin with these retrofits.
This
guide from the Department of Energy is a great resource on all
the places in a home one might consider insulating.
Choosing an insulation type:
Every home is different, and the type of insulation you choose will
depend on a number of factors including where you’re insulating, whether
that area is finished or unfinished, what R-Value is right for your
climate, and your budget. You can check out
this
comprehensive list of different insulation types to learn about
their respective advantages and use cases. But when it comes to attic
rafters and exterior walls, De Barbaro said that one option rises above
the rest.
“The magic word here is dense-packed
cellulose
insulation!” De Barbaro told
me.
This type of insulation (which falls under the “loose fill and blown-in”
category) is made from recycled paper products, meaning it has very low
embodied carbon emissions. It’s also cheap and effective. For exterior
walls and attic rafters, be sure to avoid loose-fill
cellulose, as that can settle and become less effective over time —
although for attic floors, loose-fill works well. Both are installed by
drilling holes into the wall or floor space and blowing the insulation
in under pressure.
We recommend discussing all of these options with your contractor, but
here are the other materials you’re most likely to come across:
Exterior walls: For some
climate
zones,Energy Star recommends adding “insulative wall sheathing”
to your blown-in insulation. This usually means adding foam
board or rigid foam insulation beneath your
siding. In this case, De Barbaro recommends
Polyiso
rigid foam insulation, due to its low environmental impact. Removing
your siding is a big, expensive task, though, so you would likely only
add this additional layer if you were planning to replace your siding
anyway.
Basement or crawlspace: Energy Star recommends either
insulative wall sheathing (again, Polyiso is a great choice), or
batt insulation. Batts are pre-cut, flat pieces of
insulation that look like a blanket and are usually made of fiberglass,
mineral wool or sheep’s wool.
Finding an air sealing and insulation contractor:
In addition to asking friends, family, and your local utility for
contractor recommendations,
Energy
Star specifically recommends these additional resources where
you can find licensed and insured contractors for insulation work.
Things to know before reaching out to contractors:
Where in your home you are losing the most heat. The results of your
energy audit should give you this information.
How much insulation you currently have (if any) in your attic floor,
exterior walls, and basement or crawlspace. This is also something your
home energy auditor can help you figure out.
What climate zone you are in, and what R-Value is recommended both for
that zone and for the part of your house that you are insulating. For
wood-framed buildings, which comprise the vast majority of single-family
homes,
you
can find that information here.
“Knob and tube wiring” found in older homes can pose a fire hazard if it
comes into contact with insulation, so tell your contractor if your
house was built in the 1930’s or earlier.
Questions to ask potential air-sealing and insulation contractors:
Will you seal all gaps and cracks before adding
insulation? If a contractor doesn’t agree to this, find another
one! The benefits of the added insulation will go largely to waste if
air sealing isn’t completed first.
Are you able to install my preferred type of insulation, and is
this the type of insulation you would also recommend? It’s good
to come in with some ideas and preferences, but listen to what your
contractor has to say about what they think would work best for your
home too. Get a number of different opinions.
Do you offer attic hatch cover or attic door
insulation? If you’re doing your attic, insulating these areas
ensures that you get the most energy savings possible.
Windows, Doors, and Skylights
While air sealing and insulation should definitely be number one on your
weatherization checklist, plenty of heat gets lost through windows,
doors, and skylights, as well. Single pane glass is a particularly poor
insulator, and while fewer houses these days have it, upgrading to
double or triple pane windows or skylights can be a big
energy saver. Likewise, steel or fiberglass doors are
much better insulators than traditional wooden doors.
But be warned: These can be pricey upgrades. The cost of installing
windows alone ranges from hundreds of dollars up to $1,500 per
window, and many homes have ten or more. It’s unlikely you’ll
fully recoup the outlay through your energy savings, so before going
about these retrofits, be sure that you’ve taken care of the easy stuff
first.
There are a couple, less expensive alternatives to a full window and
door replacement. One is getting
storm
windows and
storm
doors installed to provide an added layer of insulation.
While this option has been around for a long time, older models were
usually made of clear glass, while newer versions offer a
low-emissivity (e.k.a. low-e) coating
that greatly improves the glass’s insulating abilities. Installing these
yourself can make for a relatively easy
DIY
project — or, as always, you can go with a certified professional.
You can also opt for what’s called an insert window
replacement or a pocket window replacement,
which is when you replace just the window glass but keep the existing
frame. If your frame is in good condition and airtight, this will likely
save you money and simplify the installation process.
One last cost saving tip: Don’t sleep on the power of
simple
window coverings like shades or
blinds! They come in a variety of styles and can be
powerful insulators, given that you remember to strategically open and
close them throughout the day.
Things to know before reaching out to contractors and installers:
To be eligible for a federal tax credit, new windows and skylights must
be designated
“Most
Efficient” by Energy Star. The online database lets you filter
by climate zone, window or door type, brand, and frame material. While
doors don’t need this designation to be eligible for the tax credit,
they do have to meet other Energy Star criteria. (Currently no storm
windows or storm doors appear to be designated “Most Efficient,” but you
can find a list of Energy Star-certified
storm
windows here.)
What type of windows and doors you currently have and what type of
windows and doors you might want. Familiarize yourself with the various
window
styles and technologies, and check out the websites of some
major manufacturers such as
Marvin,
Pella,
Jeld-Wen,
or
Anderson
to get a sense of what you’re looking for. For storm windows in
particular, most Energy Star-certified models are from
Quantapanel.
Once you’ve done your research, it’s time to schedule a consultation
with an installer, who can help you refine your project needs, discuss
design and installation options, and provide you with a quote.
Questions to ask potential contractors or installers:
Can you show me an example of what we’re talking about?
Window installers may be able to bring a corner cut of a window
or a full example window to your home so you can assess color and frame
style. Doors are more difficult, but if the company has a showroom, it’s
a good idea to check that out.
Who is the manufacturer of these windows/doors/skylights?
Installers may show you products from multiple companies, but
you’ll want to know the manufacturer and the model so that you can
verify that it’s Energy Star certified and eligible for tax
credits.
Are you a certified installer of [insert brand here] windows
and/or skylights and/or doors? Major window and door
manufacturers such as Marvin, Jeld-Wen, Pella, and Anderson will have a
network of certified installers, and once you’ve decided to go with a
particular brand, you should ensure that your installer is certified
with that manufacturer.
“So if you pick a Marvin window, make sure that you have
a Marvin certified installer in your location, installing the Marvin
window according to the Marvin instructions.” said
Lstiburek.
How strong is the glass in these windows?
Double-strength glass is less subject to breakage and may be
worth the slight cost premium, especially because some glass warranties
only cover double-strength glass.
How long will it take for things to be delivered? Know
that high performance windows can take up to 12 weeks for delivery,
especially if they’re made to order or require any customization.
Prepare yourself for a wait.
Roofs
Insulating your attic floor or your roof rafters is the best way to
ensure that your home is sealed off from the elements. But if you live
in a hot climate and need a new roof anyway (most last 25 to 50 years),
then you might consider getting a cool roof, which can be made from a
variety of materials and installed on almost any slope. However, they
won’t lead to energy efficiencies in all geographies, so be sure to do
your research beforehand!
Things to know before reaching out to roofers:
What
climate
zone you’re in, and thus how beneficial (or not) a cool roof
would be. While a cool roof will be at least slightly beneficial in most
climate zones, if you live in a very cold place (zone 7 or 8), a cool
roof will probably be detrimental, as the need for more heating when
it’s cold will outweigh the energy savings when it’s warm.
What type of roofing materials and finishes you are interested in.
Consult
the
database of products from the
Cool
Roof Rating Council to compare the performance of various
roofing products based on their Solar Reflectance Index (see glossary
above). You can also filter by material, color, manufacturer and roof
slope.
What type of roof you currently have, and what type of roof you might
want. Check out homes in your neighborhood similar to get a sense of
prevailing styles and what might suit your home. You can also check out
the websites of some
major
roofing companies to see what styles they offer.
Roofers are also often knowledgeable about the most popular roofing
colors and styles for homes like yours, and can be a valuable resource
in helping you make your selection.
Questions to ask potential contractors or installers:
Are you a member of any professional roofing associations?
Affiliation with a reputable roofing association is a good
sign, indicating that your roofer is staying up to date on industry
standards. Along with the
National Roofing
Contractors Association, there are numerous regional
associations including ones for the
Northeast,
Midwest,
Western, and
Mid-Atlantic
areas.
Will you bring roofing samples to help me choose what color and
style would best suit my home? While looking at products online
can be helpful, Heatmap recommends waiting to make a final decision
until you can see examples in person.
Are you associated with a roofing manufacturer or a certified
installer for any particular manufacturers? Much like with
windows,major roofing manufacturers such as GAF, Owens
Corning, or Englert often have a network of roofers who are trained on
their particular products. So if you’re interested in purchasing roofing
products from a particular manufacturer, choosing a roofer who is
affiliated with them is a prudent choice.
Will you perform a full inspection of my roof? Before
providing you with a cost estimate, a roofer should perform a full roof
inspection, including your attic, to evaluate the scope of the project
and provide you with an accurate quote.
Wiring and Electric Panels
Last but certainly not least is a retrofit that’s a little different
from the rest. Unlike getting insulation, new windows, or a new roof,
upgrading your wiring or electric panel doesn’t lead to greater energy
efficiency by regulating the temperature of your home. What it does
instead is enable greater energy efficiency by making it
possible to operate an increasing number of electrified appliances and
devices in your house.
For example, getting an electric or induction stove or dryer, a standard
heat pump, a heat pump water heater, or an electric vehicle charger will
require that you add new electric circuits to support these devices. And
as these new loads add up, you may need to install a larger electric
panel to support it all.
After sourcing electrician recommendations from family and friends, a
good place to turn is
Rewiring
America’s contractor directory network. (Rewiring America is
also a sponsor of Decarbonize Your Life.)Networks in your area can then
provide you with a list of qualified electricians.
Things to know before reaching out to electricians:
What your long-term home electrification goals are. As previously
mentioned, it will save you time and money to do as many electrification
upgrades as possible in one go.
The
size
of your current electric panel. You can find this information on
your main breaker or fuse, a label on the panel itself, or your electric
meter. Buying a new electric panel usually costs thousands of dollars,
so knowing what size you’re currently working with can help ensure
you’re not getting upsold. Typical is 100 amps, and that’s
often
large enough for homes to fully electrify, Wyent told me; if
you’re going to upgrade though, more than 200 amps is almost never
necessary.
“Most people are really only using somewhere around 40%
of what their current panels space. So you can actually add a fair
amount of new circuits to your existing panel and upgrade your wiring
while not having to upgrade your panel at all,” Wyent
said.
Even if you are running out of space on your current panel, you don’t
necessarily need a new one — there are
technologies
and methods to work around this. For example, Wyent told me you
can purchase circuit sharing devices like a smart splitter or a circuit
pauser that would allow you to put multiple loads on the same circuit or
shut off certain appliances when you’re approaching your panel’s limit.
Or you could get an entire smart panel (though that’s quite pricey),
which automatically modulates your loads.
Questions to ask potential electricians:
Will you need to shut off power and for how long? Most
electrical work involves shutting off the power for a bit. Knowing how
long this will take, and if the whole house or just particular rooms
will be affected will allow you to plan around it.
Will you perform an electrical safety inspection as a part of
the job? These types of periodic inspections are important, and
if an inspection isn’t automatically performed as a part of the job, it
could be worth tacking it on for an extra charge.
What technologies would allow me to keep my existing panel while
also adding more electrical appliances? As discussed, there are
numerous ways to avoid having to upgrade your panel, and you should be
able to discuss these options with your electrician.
If getting a new panel, does this panel meet the standards of
the
National
Electric Code? This is required for
federal tax credit eligibility.
REVIEWING OPTIONS AND SIGNING YOUR CONTRACT
Once you have three quotes in hand, all that’s left to do is evaluate
your options, choose a contractor or installer, and sign a contract.
Cost will likely be a major factor in the decision, but you’ll also want
to ensure that the cheapest quote doesn’t mean corners will be cut.
Here’s what to look out for.
Pay close attention to warranties. This applies both to
the warranty for the work being performed and to the warranties for the
products themselves. If an installation job or a product is well priced
but comes with a short warranty, this should give you pause.
Avoid “same day signing specials.” If you’re being
rushed into signing a contract, this is also a bad sign. Be sure to read
the fine print — most cost estimates should be good for a few weeks at
minimum.
Get specific. Your quotes should specify the type of
work being performed, the scope of the work, cost (broken down by
materials, labor, permits, and other expenses), payment method, and a
tentative timeline for completion. A quote is much less formal than a
contract, so if some of this information isn’t provided up front, don’t
hesitate to ask for clarification so that you can make apples-to-apples
comparisons between different contractors.
When you get a contract in hand, double check that:
The materials and products listed are the same as the ones you
discussed, that they meet the requirements for your climate zone, and
(if relevant) are Energy Star certified.
There are exact values listed for the relevant metrics. You should see
R-Values for insulation, U-Values and SHGC for windows, doors, and
skylights, and the Solar Reflectance Index for roofs.
The payment schedule — including upfront deposits — aligns with your
expectations.
Warranty information for both labor and materials/products is included.
The timeline is clear, with start and end dates listed.
The contractor’s license and insurance information is provided.
Then it’s time to sign, sit back, and enjoy the soothing sounds of
hammering, drilling, insulation blowing, and wire tinkering, content in
knowing that you’re decarbonizing your home down to its very bones!
Important!
Keep all of your invoices and receipts from contractors and installers.
You might need this information to claim your federal tax credit or for
other state and local incentives. More on that below!
WHAT’S NEXT?
Claim your tax credits
Now that you’re living comfortably in a maximally energy efficient home,
you’re probably wondering when you’ll start seeing all those incentives
you researched pay off. First off, know that you must wait until all
renovations are complete and paid for to claim your federal tax credit.
That means that even if you purchased new windows this year, if you have
them installed in 2025, you’ll file for a tax credit with your 2025
return. Here’s how to go about it.
Find the invoice(s) from your contractor(s) for all qualified energy
efficient upgrades you made this last tax year.
Fill out
IRS
Form 5695, Residential Energy Credits. For more information on
filling out the form and a reminder of the amount that you can claim for
various projects,
see
here. Remember that labor costs for insulation, windows, doors,
and skylights do not apply. Labor costs do apply for
electrical upgrades though.
When it’s time to file your taxes, submit the form alongside your tax
return. Note that you can claim this tax credit and also take the
standard deduction, no need to itemize.
Enjoy your savings!
Note
You cannot receive more money back in tax credits than you owe in taxes.
So if you qualify for $900 of home energy efficiency upgrades but owe
just $400 in taxes, you’ll receive a $400 tax credit.
For state and local incentives, check the website for your local utility
as well your local and state government and energy office to see what
documentation is required. When in doubt, keep all of your
records and receipts!
When you think about ways to decarbonize, your mind will likely go
straight to shiny new machines — an electric vehicle, solar panels, or
an induction stove, perhaps. But let’s not forget the low-tech,
low-hanging fruit: your home itself.
Adding insulation, fixing any gaps, cracks or leaks where air can get
out, and perhaps installing energy efficient windows and doors are the
necessary first steps to decarbonizing at home — though you may also
want to consider a light-colored “cool roof,” which reflects sunlight to
keep the home comfortable, and electric panel and wiring upgrades to
support broader electrification efforts.
Getting started on one or multiple of these retrofits can be daunting —
there’s lingo to be learned, audits to be performed, and various
incentives to navigate. Luckily, Heatmap is here to help.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Cora Wyent is the Director of
Research at Rewiring America, where she conducts research and analysis
on how to rapidly electrify the entire economy.
Joseph Lstiburek is the founding
principal at the Building Science Corporation, a consulting firm focused
on designing and constructing energy efficient, durable, and economic
buildings.
Lucy de Barbaro is the founder and
director of Energy Efficiency Empowerment, a Pittsburgh-based
organization that seeks to transform the home renovation process and
help low and middle-income homeowners make energy efficiency
improvements.
Claim your tax credits for the year in which the
work was completed
THE BASICS
The whole process you’re about to embark on is known as
weatherization or weatherproofing.
Essentially what you’re doing is sealing off your home, so that
whatever’s going on outside has little to no effect on the conditions
inside.
When contractors refer to your home envelope, they’re
talking about anything related to your home’s exterior, including the
roof, walls, floors, windows, and doors. You may hear many energy
efficiency upgrades referred to as “home envelope upgrades,” as well.
U-Value or U-Factor is a measurement
of how well a window, door, or skylight insulates. The lower the
U-Value, the better insulating these products are.
How much heat passes through a window, door, or skylight and into the
home is quantified as the solar heat gain coefficient, or
SHGC, on a scale of zero to one. Lower SHGC values are better
for hot climates and higher values are better for cold climates.
The higher the R-value of a particular insulation
material, the more effective it is. What R-Value you go with will depend
on the climate you live in, what part of the house you are insulating,
and whether any insulation already exists.
Dense packing is an insulation method also known as
“drill and fill,” which refers to blowing loose fiber insulation into a
wall at high pressure. For homes that are already built, many experts
recommend using dense pack cellulose insulation, as
it’s cheap, effective, and environmentally friendly.
Roofs covered in light-colored roofing materials to reflect sunlight
away from the home are known as cool roofs. They reduce
the amount of energy it takes to cool your home on a hot day, but
increase the energy needed to heat your home in the winter.
A roof’s ability to return solar heat to the atmosphere is measured by
its Solar Reflectance Index. Most roofing materials
have an SRI value between 0 and 100 (higher numbers indicate better
performance), although it’s possible to have values outside this range.
This number is a combination of two measurements, “solar reflectance”
and “thermal emittance.” When comparing roofing products, the SRI is the
main thing to check.
When choosing insulation, doors, windows, etc., you’ll need to know your
climate zone, which is essentially what the weather is
like in the area where you live, based on temperature, humidity, and
rainfall. The zones that pertain to insulation and cool roofs are more
specific than the zones for windows, doors, and skylights.
The amount of electric current moving through a circuit is measured in
amps, short for amperes. You’ll hear
this used when discussing electrical upgrades. For example an 100-amp
panel represents the maximum amount of current your home can handle at
any given moment.
An electrical load refers to any device or appliance
that consumes electricity, and by proxy, the amount of power required to
run it. It is measured in watts. So an EV charger could
be a 7,200 watt load, and a dishwasher could be about 2,000 watts. When
discussing electrical upgrades, you’ll likely hear about the load on a
particular circuit.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Do I still need insulation if I live in a warm climate?
Definitively, yes! When people hear the word “insulation” they often
think of how it can protect them from the cold. And while it certainly
does do that, insulation’s overall role is to slow the transfer of heat
both out of your home when it’s chilly and into your
home when it’s hot. That means you won’t need to use your air
conditioning as much during those scorching summer days
or your furnace as much when the temperatures drop.
Would I benefit from energy efficient upgrades if my home is
relatively new?
Quite possibly! The most definitive way to know if your home could be
improved by weatherization is by getting a home energy audit —- more on
that below. While a specific level of insulation is required for all
newly constructed homes, these codes and standards are updated
frequently. So if you’re feeling uncomfortable in your living space, or
if you think your heating and cooling bills are unusually high, it’s
definitely worth seeing what an expert thinks. And if you’re interested
in getting electric appliances like a heat pump or induction stove, some
wiring upgrades will almost certainly be necessary.
I already have energy efficient appliances in my home, so what’s the
benefit of weatherization?
Energy efficient appliances like electric heat pumps or induction stoves
are fantastic ways to decarbonize your life, but serve a fundamentally
different purpose than most of the upgrades that we’re going to talk
about here. When you get better air sealing, insulation, windows, or
doors, what you’re doing is essentially regulating the temperature of
your home, making you less reliant on energy intensive heating and
cooling systems. And while this can certainly lead to savings on your
energy bill and a positive impact on the environment at large, these
upgrades will also allow you to simply live more comfortably.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Get a home energy audit
This is the starting point for making informed decisions about any
energy efficiency upgrades that you’re considering. During a home energy
audit, a certified auditor (sometimes also referred to as an energy
assessor or rater or verifier) will inspect your home to identify both
the highest-impact and most cost-effective upgrades you can make,
including how much you stand to save on your energy bills by doing so.
Wyent told me checking with your local utility is a good place to start,
as many offer low-cost audits. Even if your utility doesn’t do energy
assessments, they may be able to point you in the direction of local
auditors or state-level resources and directories. The
Residential
Energy Services Network also provides a directory of certified
assessors searchable by location, as does the
Department
of Energy’s Energy Score program, though neither list is
comprehensive.
Audits typically cost between $200 and $700 depending on your home’s
location, size, and type, as well as the scope of the audit. Homeowners
can claim 30% of the
cost
of their audit on their federal taxes, up to $150. To be
eligible, make sure you find a certified home energy auditor. The DOE
provides
a list of recognized certification programs.
Important: Make sure the auditor performs both a
blower
door test and a
thermographic
inspection. These diagnostic tools are
key to determining where air leakage and heat loss/gain is occurring.
Important!
At the end of the audit, your auditor should provide you with a written
report that includes their business employer identification number as
well as an attestation that they’re certified by a qualified
certification program.
Keep this for your tax records!
Learn about incentives
Your energy audit isn’t the only thing eligible for a credit.
The
25C Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit allows homeowners
to claim up to 30% of the cost of a variety of home upgrades, up to a
combined total of $1,200 per year. This covers upgrading your
insulation, windows, doors, skylights, electrical wiring, and/or
electrical panel. Getting an energy audit is also included in this
category.
While $1,200 is the max amount you can claim for all retrofits combined,
certain renovations come with their own specific limitations. Let’s
break it down:
Insulation and air sealing: 30% up to $1,200 total, no
additional limits. Labor costs don’t apply.
Exterior doors: 30% up to $250 per door, total limit of
$500 for all doors combined. Labor costs don’t apply.
Exterior windows/skylights: 30% up to $600 total. Labor
costs don’t apply.
Electrical upgrades: 30% up to $600 total for
panelboards and other electrical equipment with a capacity of at least
200 amps. Needs to be installed in tandem with other energy efficiency
upgrades or qualifying energy appliances (such as a heat pump or central
air conditioner). Labor costs do apply for the credit.
Home energy audit: 30% up to $150.
Roof: Currently, roof upgrades are not eligible for
this tax credit or other federal incentives.
Example: If you spend $500 on one door, 30% of that, or
$150, is eligible for a tax credit. If you spend $2,000 on two doors,
only $500 will be eligible.
State and local incentives:
The Biden administration is in the process of funding the
state-administered
Home
Electrification and Appliance Rebates, which provide low and
moderate income households with up to $1,600 for weatherization
upgrades, $4,000 for electric panel upgrades, and $2,500 for electric
wiring upgrades. So far, rebate programs have been launched in New York
and Wisconsin. Your state could be next!
The
Home
Efficiency Rebates are another state-administered program that
will reward retrofits based on their modeled or measured level of energy
savings. They are expected to roll out in 2025.
One program that is active today for low-income homeowners and renters
is the
Weatherization
Assistance Program, which provides free weatherization services
to qualifying families and individuals. If you think you might be
eligible, definitely check it out.
For cool roofs specifically, you can
consult
this list of state and local-level rebates and other incentives.
Depending on where you live, there may be additional state and local
incentives, and we suggest asking your contractor what you are eligible
for. But since incentive programs change frequently, it’s a good idea to
do your own research too. Get acquainted with
Energy
Star, a joint program run by the Environmental Protection Agency
and the DOE which provides information on energy efficient products,
practices, and standards. On Energy Star’s website, you can
search
by zip code for utility rebates that can help you save on
insulation, windows, and electrical work.
“Starting by looking at your local utility programs can
be a great resource too, because utilities offer rebates or incentives
for weatherizing your home or installing a new roof,” said
Wyent.
Consider your long-term goals
Everyone wants to minimize the number of times they break open or drill
into their walls. To that end, it’s useful to plan out
all the upgrades you might want to get done over the
next five to 10 years to figure out where efficiency might fit in.
Some primary examples: Installing appliances like a heat pump, induction
stove, or Level 2 EV charger (all of which you can read more about in
our
other
guides) often require electrical upgrades. Even if you don’t plan to
get any of these new appliances now, pre-wiring your home to prepare for
their installation (with the exception of a heat pump — see our heat
pump guide for more info on that) will save you money later on.
De Barbaro also notes that if you’re planning to repaint your walls
anytime soon, this would also be a convenient time to add insulation, as
that involves drilling holes which then need to be patched and repainted
anyway. Likewise, if you were already planning to replace your home’s
siding, this would be a natural time to insulate. Finally, if you’re
planning to get a heat pump in the coming years, getting better
insulation now will ensure this system is maximally effective.
Conversely, if you’re cash-strapped, spreading out electrical and
weatherization upgrades over the course of a few years allows you to
claim the full $1,200 tax credit every year. Whether those tax savings
are enough to cover the added contractor time and clean-up costs,
though, will depend on the particulars of your situation.
“Come in with a plan and talk to the contractor about
everything that you want to do in the future, not just immediately,”
said Wyent.
Unlike solar installers, which are often associated with large regional
and national companies, the world of weatherization and electrical
upgrades is often much more localized, meaning you’ll need to do a bit
of legwork to verify that the contractors and installers you come across
are reliable.
Wyent told me she typically starts by asking friends, family, and
neighbors for references, as well as turning to Google and Yelp reviews.
Depending on where you live and what type of work you want done, your
local utility may also offer incentives for weatherization and
electrification upgrades, and can possibly provide a list of prescreened
contractors who are licensed and insured for this type of work.
What to ask all contractors and installers
These questions will help you vet contractors and gain a better
understanding of their process regardless of the type of renovation
you’re pursuing.
How long have you been in business? If you’re hiring a
local company, you’ll want to ensure that they’ve been around long
enough to establish a reputation. That way you can gather references and
ask friends and neighbors if they’ve worked with them before.
What is the timeline for completion of this project, and when
would you be able to start? This will vary widely by project
type and scope, but you should ask your contractor to include a timeline
as a part of their initial quote — and, most importantly, as a part of
your final contract, if you get there. Having this in writing should
help keep everyone accountable.
What is your expected work schedule, and can I stay in my home
during these renovations? Certain projects can be loud and
disruptive, even if only for a few hours. Gauging just how disruptive
can allow you to plan ahead and get out of the house if need be.
What type of warranty do you offer for your work? This
ensures that if a renovation is performed incorrectly, it will be fixed
free of charge. The products themselves have their own separate
warranties, which you should also be aware of.
Will you work with subcontractors? Clarify who is your
point of contact for the project, and make sure the contractor’s
insurance covers subcontractors as well.
Will these retrofits require a permit? If so, who will be in
charge of securing that? Depending on where you live and what
types of retrofits and upgrades you’re planning, obtaining a permit
might be necessary. Ensuring that your contractor understands the
nuances of local regulations and permitting processes is key.
What is your payment schedule? Often you may be
expected to pay a contractor or installer an upfront deposit. Clarify
how much that will be to make sure there are no surprises, and stay away
from contractors who request full payment upfront.
Will you conduct a site visit in order to get a more accurate
cost and scope of work estimate? This can help you and your
contractor or installer ensure that you’re on the same page about what
makes the most sense for your home. Ask whether the site visit will be
free or if there’s a consultation fee.
Will you use products and materials that are eligible for the
Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit? You’ll want to let
your contractor know up front that you would like to take advantage of
this credit so that you can work with them to choose products that meet
the required standards.
Do you know of any state or local energy efficiency incentives I
might be eligible for? Make sure you’re taking advantage of all
the cost savings available to you! Not all contractors will be up to
date on the latest programs, though, so do your own research.
Common wisdom says you should always get three quotes.
But that doesn’t mean you should automatically choose the cheapest
option. Lstiburek says the old adage applies: “If it sounds too good to
be true, it’s probably too good to be true.” Be sure that your
contractors and installers are properly licensed and insured and read
the fine print of your contract. Beyond this, how to find qualified
professionals and what to ask largely depends on the type of upgrade you
are pursuing. So let’s break it down, starting with the biggest bang for
your buck.
Air Sealing and Insulation
Air sealing and insulating your home is usually the number one way to
increase its energy efficiency.
Energy
Star says nine out of 10 homes are underinsulated, and many also
have significant air leaks. In general, homes lose more heating and
cooling energy through walls and attics than through windows and doors,
so air sealing and adding insulation
in
key areas should be your first priority.
“People don’t realize how collectively, small holes
everywhere add up. So on average here in Pennsylvania, typically those
holes would add up to the surface of three sheets of paper, continuously
open to the outdoors,” said de Barbaro.
Determining where air is escaping is the purpose of the
blower
door test and the
thermographic
inspection, so after your energy audit you should have a good
idea of where to begin with these retrofits.
This
guide from the Department of Energy is a great resource on all
the places in a home one might consider insulating.
Choosing an insulation type:
Every home is different, and the type of insulation you choose will
depend on a number of factors including where you’re insulating, whether
that area is finished or unfinished, what R-Value is right for your
climate, and your budget. You can check out
this
comprehensive list of different insulation types to learn about
their respective advantages and use cases. But when it comes to attic
rafters and exterior walls, De Barbaro said that one option rises above
the rest.
“The magic word here is dense-packed
cellulose
insulation!” De Barbaro told
me.
This type of insulation (which falls under the “loose fill and blown-in”
category) is made from recycled paper products, meaning it has very low
embodied carbon emissions. It’s also cheap and effective. For exterior
walls and attic rafters, be sure to avoid loose-fill
cellulose, as that can settle and become less effective over time —
although for attic floors, loose-fill works well. Both are installed by
drilling holes into the wall or floor space and blowing the insulation
in under pressure.
We recommend discussing all of these options with your contractor, but
here are the other materials you’re most likely to come across:
Exterior walls: For some
climate
zones,Energy Star recommends adding “insulative wall sheathing”
to your blown-in insulation. This usually means adding foam
board or rigid foam insulation beneath your
siding. In this case, De Barbaro recommends
Polyiso
rigid foam insulation, due to its low environmental impact. Removing
your siding is a big, expensive task, though, so you would likely only
add this additional layer if you were planning to replace your siding
anyway.
Basement or crawlspace: Energy Star recommends either
insulative wall sheathing (again, Polyiso is a great choice), or
batt insulation. Batts are pre-cut, flat pieces of
insulation that look like a blanket and are usually made of fiberglass,
mineral wool or sheep’s wool.
Finding an air sealing and insulation contractor:
In addition to asking friends, family, and your local utility for
contractor recommendations,
Energy
Star specifically recommends these additional resources where
you can find licensed and insured contractors for insulation work.
Things to know before reaching out to contractors:
Where in your home you are losing the most heat. The results of your
energy audit should give you this information.
How much insulation you currently have (if any) in your attic floor,
exterior walls, and basement or crawlspace. This is also something your
home energy auditor can help you figure out.
What climate zone you are in, and what R-Value is recommended both for
that zone and for the part of your house that you are insulating. For
wood-framed buildings, which comprise the vast majority of single-family
homes,
you
can find that information here.
“Knob and tube wiring” found in older homes can pose a fire hazard if it
comes into contact with insulation, so tell your contractor if your
house was built in the 1930’s or earlier.
Questions to ask potential air-sealing and insulation contractors:
Will you seal all gaps and cracks before adding
insulation? If a contractor doesn’t agree to this, find another
one! The benefits of the added insulation will go largely to waste if
air sealing isn’t completed first.
Are you able to install my preferred type of insulation, and is
this the type of insulation you would also recommend? It’s good
to come in with some ideas and preferences, but listen to what your
contractor has to say about what they think would work best for your
home too. Get a number of different opinions.
Do you offer attic hatch cover or attic door
insulation? If you’re doing your attic, insulating these areas
ensures that you get the most energy savings possible.
Windows, Doors, and Skylights
While air sealing and insulation should definitely be number one on your
weatherization checklist, plenty of heat gets lost through windows,
doors, and skylights, as well. Single pane glass is a particularly poor
insulator, and while fewer houses these days have it, upgrading to
double or triple pane windows or skylights can be a big
energy saver. Likewise, steel or fiberglass doors are
much better insulators than traditional wooden doors.
But be warned: These can be pricey upgrades. The cost of installing
windows alone ranges from hundreds of dollars up to $1,500 per
window, and many homes have ten or more. It’s unlikely you’ll
fully recoup the outlay through your energy savings, so before going
about these retrofits, be sure that you’ve taken care of the easy stuff
first.
There are a couple, less expensive alternatives to a full window and
door replacement. One is getting
storm
windows and
storm
doors installed to provide an added layer of insulation.
While this option has been around for a long time, older models were
usually made of clear glass, while newer versions offer a
low-emissivity (e.k.a. low-e) coating
that greatly improves the glass’s insulating abilities. Installing these
yourself can make for a relatively easy
DIY
project — or, as always, you can go with a certified professional.
You can also opt for what’s called an insert window
replacement or a pocket window replacement,
which is when you replace just the window glass but keep the existing
frame. If your frame is in good condition and airtight, this will likely
save you money and simplify the installation process.
One last cost saving tip: Don’t sleep on the power of
simple
window coverings like shades or
blinds! They come in a variety of styles and can be
powerful insulators, given that you remember to strategically open and
close them throughout the day.
Things to know before reaching out to contractors and installers:
To be eligible for a federal tax credit, new windows and skylights must
be designated
“Most
Efficient” by Energy Star. The online database lets you filter
by climate zone, window or door type, brand, and frame material. While
doors don’t need this designation to be eligible for the tax credit,
they do have to meet other Energy Star criteria. (Currently no storm
windows or storm doors appear to be designated “Most Efficient,” but you
can find a list of Energy Star-certified
storm
windows here.)
What type of windows and doors you currently have and what type of
windows and doors you might want. Familiarize yourself with the various
window
styles and technologies, and check out the websites of some
major manufacturers such as
Marvin,
Pella,
Jeld-Wen,
or
Anderson
to get a sense of what you’re looking for. For storm windows in
particular, most Energy Star-certified models are from
Quantapanel.
Once you’ve done your research, it’s time to schedule a consultation
with an installer, who can help you refine your project needs, discuss
design and installation options, and provide you with a quote.
Questions to ask potential contractors or installers:
Can you show me an example of what we’re talking about?
Window installers may be able to bring a corner cut of a window
or a full example window to your home so you can assess color and frame
style. Doors are more difficult, but if the company has a showroom, it’s
a good idea to check that out.
Who is the manufacturer of these windows/doors/skylights?
Installers may show you products from multiple companies, but
you’ll want to know the manufacturer and the model so that you can
verify that it’s Energy Star certified and eligible for tax
credits.
Are you a certified installer of [insert brand here] windows
and/or skylights and/or doors? Major window and door
manufacturers such as Marvin, Jeld-Wen, Pella, and Anderson will have a
network of certified installers, and once you’ve decided to go with a
particular brand, you should ensure that your installer is certified
with that manufacturer.
“So if you pick a Marvin window, make sure that you have
a Marvin certified installer in your location, installing the Marvin
window according to the Marvin instructions.” said
Lstiburek.
How strong is the glass in these windows?
Double-strength glass is less subject to breakage and may be
worth the slight cost premium, especially because some glass warranties
only cover double-strength glass.
How long will it take for things to be delivered? Know
that high performance windows can take up to 12 weeks for delivery,
especially if they’re made to order or require any customization.
Prepare yourself for a wait.
Roofs
Insulating your attic floor or your roof rafters is the best way to
ensure that your home is sealed off from the elements. But if you live
in a hot climate and need a new roof anyway (most last 25 to 50 years),
then you might consider getting a cool roof, which can be made from a
variety of materials and installed on almost any slope. However, they
won’t lead to energy efficiencies in all geographies, so be sure to do
your research beforehand!
Things to know before reaching out to roofers:
What
climate
zone you’re in, and thus how beneficial (or not) a cool roof
would be. While a cool roof will be at least slightly beneficial in most
climate zones, if you live in a very cold place (zone 7 or 8), a cool
roof will probably be detrimental, as the need for more heating when
it’s cold will outweigh the energy savings when it’s warm.
What type of roofing materials and finishes you are interested in.
Consult
the
database of products from the
Cool
Roof Rating Council to compare the performance of various
roofing products based on their Solar Reflectance Index (see glossary
above). You can also filter by material, color, manufacturer and roof
slope.
What type of roof you currently have, and what type of roof you might
want. Check out homes in your neighborhood similar to get a sense of
prevailing styles and what might suit your home. You can also check out
the websites of some
major
roofing companies to see what styles they offer.
Roofers are also often knowledgeable about the most popular roofing
colors and styles for homes like yours, and can be a valuable resource
in helping you make your selection.
Questions to ask potential contractors or installers:
Are you a member of any professional roofing associations?
Affiliation with a reputable roofing association is a good
sign, indicating that your roofer is staying up to date on industry
standards. Along with the
National Roofing
Contractors Association, there are numerous regional
associations including ones for the
Northeast,
Midwest,
Western, and
Mid-Atlantic
areas.
Will you bring roofing samples to help me choose what color and
style would best suit my home? While looking at products online
can be helpful, Heatmap recommends waiting to make a final decision
until you can see examples in person.
Are you associated with a roofing manufacturer or a certified
installer for any particular manufacturers? Much like with
windows,major roofing manufacturers such as GAF, Owens
Corning, or Englert often have a network of roofers who are trained on
their particular products. So if you’re interested in purchasing roofing
products from a particular manufacturer, choosing a roofer who is
affiliated with them is a prudent choice.
Will you perform a full inspection of my roof? Before
providing you with a cost estimate, a roofer should perform a full roof
inspection, including your attic, to evaluate the scope of the project
and provide you with an accurate quote.
Wiring and Electric Panels
Last but certainly not least is a retrofit that’s a little different
from the rest. Unlike getting insulation, new windows, or a new roof,
upgrading your wiring or electric panel doesn’t lead to greater energy
efficiency by regulating the temperature of your home. What it does
instead is enable greater energy efficiency by making it
possible to operate an increasing number of electrified appliances and
devices in your house.
For example, getting an electric or induction stove or dryer, a standard
heat pump, a heat pump water heater, or an electric vehicle charger will
require that you add new electric circuits to support these devices. And
as these new loads add up, you may need to install a larger electric
panel to support it all.
After sourcing electrician recommendations from family and friends, a
good place to turn is
Rewiring
America’s contractor directory network. (Rewiring America is
also a sponsor of Decarbonize Your Life.)Networks in your area can then
provide you with a list of qualified electricians.
Things to know before reaching out to electricians:
What your long-term home electrification goals are. As previously
mentioned, it will save you time and money to do as many electrification
upgrades as possible in one go.
The
size
of your current electric panel. You can find this information on
your main breaker or fuse, a label on the panel itself, or your electric
meter. Buying a new electric panel usually costs thousands of dollars,
so knowing what size you’re currently working with can help ensure
you’re not getting upsold. Typical is 100 amps, and that’s
often
large enough for homes to fully electrify, Wyent told me; if
you’re going to upgrade though, more than 200 amps is almost never
necessary.
“Most people are really only using somewhere around 40%
of what their current panels space. So you can actually add a fair
amount of new circuits to your existing panel and upgrade your wiring
while not having to upgrade your panel at all,” Wyent
said.
Even if you are running out of space on your current panel, you don’t
necessarily need a new one — there are
technologies
and methods to work around this. For example, Wyent told me you
can purchase circuit sharing devices like a smart splitter or a circuit
pauser that would allow you to put multiple loads on the same circuit or
shut off certain appliances when you’re approaching your panel’s limit.
Or you could get an entire smart panel (though that’s quite pricey),
which automatically modulates your loads.
Questions to ask potential electricians:
Will you need to shut off power and for how long? Most
electrical work involves shutting off the power for a bit. Knowing how
long this will take, and if the whole house or just particular rooms
will be affected will allow you to plan around it.
Will you perform an electrical safety inspection as a part of
the job? These types of periodic inspections are important, and
if an inspection isn’t automatically performed as a part of the job, it
could be worth tacking it on for an extra charge.
What technologies would allow me to keep my existing panel while
also adding more electrical appliances? As discussed, there are
numerous ways to avoid having to upgrade your panel, and you should be
able to discuss these options with your electrician.
If getting a new panel, does this panel meet the standards of
the
National
Electric Code? This is required for
federal tax credit eligibility.
REVIEWING OPTIONS AND SIGNING YOUR CONTRACT
Once you have three quotes in hand, all that’s left to do is evaluate
your options, choose a contractor or installer, and sign a contract.
Cost will likely be a major factor in the decision, but you’ll also want
to ensure that the cheapest quote doesn’t mean corners will be cut.
Here’s what to look out for.
Pay close attention to warranties. This applies both to
the warranty for the work being performed and to the warranties for the
products themselves. If an installation job or a product is well priced
but comes with a short warranty, this should give you pause.
Avoid “same day signing specials.” If you’re being
rushed into signing a contract, this is also a bad sign. Be sure to read
the fine print — most cost estimates should be good for a few weeks at
minimum.
Get specific. Your quotes should specify the type of
work being performed, the scope of the work, cost (broken down by
materials, labor, permits, and other expenses), payment method, and a
tentative timeline for completion. A quote is much less formal than a
contract, so if some of this information isn’t provided up front, don’t
hesitate to ask for clarification so that you can make apples-to-apples
comparisons between different contractors.
When you get a contract in hand, double check that:
The materials and products listed are the same as the ones you
discussed, that they meet the requirements for your climate zone, and
(if relevant) are Energy Star certified.
There are exact values listed for the relevant metrics. You should see
R-Values for insulation, U-Values and SHGC for windows, doors, and
skylights, and the Solar Reflectance Index for roofs.
The payment schedule — including upfront deposits — aligns with your
expectations.
Warranty information for both labor and materials/products is included.
The timeline is clear, with start and end dates listed.
The contractor’s license and insurance information is provided.
Then it’s time to sign, sit back, and enjoy the soothing sounds of
hammering, drilling, insulation blowing, and wire tinkering, content in
knowing that you’re decarbonizing your home down to its very bones!
Important!
Keep all of your invoices and receipts from contractors and installers.
You might need this information to claim your federal tax credit or for
other state and local incentives. More on that below!
WHAT’S NEXT?
Claim your tax credits
Now that you’re living comfortably in a maximally energy efficient home,
you’re probably wondering when you’ll start seeing all those incentives
you researched pay off. First off, know that you must wait until all
renovations are complete and paid for to claim your federal tax credit.
That means that even if you purchased new windows this year, if you have
them installed in 2025, you’ll file for a tax credit with your 2025
return. Here’s how to go about it.
Find the invoice(s) from your contractor(s) for all qualified energy
efficient upgrades you made this last tax year.
Fill out
IRS
Form 5695, Residential Energy Credits. For more information on
filling out the form and a reminder of the amount that you can claim for
various projects,
see
here. Remember that labor costs for insulation, windows, doors,
and skylights do not apply. Labor costs do apply for
electrical upgrades though.
When it’s time to file your taxes, submit the form alongside your tax
return. Note that you can claim this tax credit and also take the
standard deduction, no need to itemize.
Enjoy your savings!
Note
You cannot receive more money back in tax credits than you owe in taxes.
So if you qualify for $900 of home energy efficiency upgrades but owe
just $400 in taxes, you’ll receive a $400 tax credit.
For state and local incentives, check the website for your local utility
as well your local and state government and energy office to see what
documentation is required. When in doubt, keep all of your
records and receipts!
Buildings are one of the few places where individuals have direct
control over greenhouse gas emissions. You can’t instantly reduce a
farmer’s beef production by eating less meat or personally shut down a
natural gas power plant. But if you’re a homeowner, it’s up to you
whether or not you’re burning fossil fuels every time you heat your
home, use hot water, dry your clothes, or cook food. Together, these
activities account for about
7%
of annual U.S. fossil fuel-related carbon emissions.
That may not sound like a lot, but it adds up. When you buy a new
heating system or a new clothes dryer, you’re investing in a machine
you’re going to use for 15 to 20 years or more. You can decide to lock
in a system that burns fossil fuels and is guaranteed to add greenhouse
gases to the atmosphere throughout that time — or you can invest in one
that can drive down emissions as the electric grid becomes cleaner. (If
you want some advice for which new appliances to go with, we have
someguidesforthat.)
“There’s an inflection point that we’re facing right now,” Sara Baldwin,
the senior electrification director at the think tank Energy Innovation,
told me. “If we lock in another two decades of fossil fuel
infrastructure in our homes, we’ve got way more work down the line.”
That’s not to say these are easy changes to make. Perhaps it’s not even
totally fair to say “it’s up to you,” because for some homeowners, the
cost of making some of these changes will be out of reach. Electric
appliances are often more expensive to install than their fossil fuel
counterparts. And in some cases, as in places where natural gas is much
cheaper than electricity, the switch might also increase your energy
bills, even though the appliances themselves are more efficient.
If you have the means, though, the benefits can be significant.
Replacing your furnace with an electric heat pump — which can both heat
and cool your home — could have two-for-one benefits for those without
central air, especially as summers get hotter. Many homeowners also
praise the quieter, more even temperature control that heat pumps
provide. Electrify any of your appliances and you’ll also be helping to
reduce local outdoor air pollution; switch to an electric cooktop and
you’ll reduce indoor air pollution for you and your family, as well.
Another way to think about electrification is as a chance to leave your
mark on the world. Political scientist Leah Stokes, who serves as policy
counsel to the electrification advocacy group Rewiring America in
addition to teaching at the University of California, Santa Barbara,
told me she likes to think of the appliances in our homes as “the
infrastructure that we are in charge of.” You can lobby your
representatives to build bike lanes, but the decision is mostly out of
your hands. You’re the only one that can decide to change out your
furnace or your water heater, however. “These are huge opportunities for
us to make legacy impacts on carbon pollution,” Stokes said. And unlike
behavioral changes such as eating vegetarian, you only have to do it
once. “If you sell that house, if you die, it’s a piece of
infrastructure that continues on.”
Making these changes won’t necessarily result in immediate emission
reductions. It depends on where you live and where your power comes
from. If a lot of your electricity comes from coal, for example, a
natural gas furnace might emit less carbon than even the most efficient
heat pump. But that’s just how the math works out today. Researchers who
have modeled out the emissions impacts over the average lifetime of the
equipment — about 16 years — have found that as the grid continues along
its trajectory of getting cleaner,
heat
pumps will emit less carbon overall in every state.
Not every home electrification project will get you the same carbon bang
for your buck. Space heating is by far the most energy-intensive thing
we do in our homes, so from an emissions standpoint, replacing your
boiler or furnace is the most effective change you can make. Clothes
dryers and stoves use so little energy, comparatively, that swapping
them out looks almost inconsequential for the climate, at least on
paper.
But the reason electrifying your home can be such a high leverage action
is not just because of the absolute emission reductions you can achieve.
It can also accelerate structural changes. If you’re currently a natural
gas customer, going fully electric means you’ll be able to disconnect
from the local distribution system and stop paying into the pool of
funds used to maintain it. That can increase rates for the remaining
customers, which is far from ideal. But it also makes the economics of
electrification more attractive.
“It’s very important that we can’t leave low income people behind,” said
Stokes. “But the more folks who get off of gas, even a small number, it
can really start to force the question of, should we start thinking
about if we should be investing hundreds of millions of dollars into
aging gas infrastructure? Or should we use that money to subsidize
electrification for low income folks?”
So, where to begin? Space heating is the biggest opportunity, but it’s
also the most expensive and complicated project. There’s no reason you
have to start there, especially if your existing heater has a lot of
life left in it. “Don’t start with the hardest thing,” said Baldwin. “If
it feels daunting, start with the easiest thing, or start with something
that feels within reach.”
Larry Waters, an HVAC contractor I interviewed for our heat pump guide,
recommends making a “gas inventory” — a list of all of your gas
appliances and how old they are. Replace whichever appliance is nearest
to the end of its useful life first, but plan ahead for future projects.
Figure out if you’ll need to budget in an electrical upgrade, or if you
can combine any of the work to save money.
The following guides will help you navigate each of these projects, with
recommendations from experts who are on the ground, helping homeowners
through this every day.
Buildings are one of the few places where individuals have direct
control over greenhouse gas emissions. You can’t instantly reduce a
farmer’s beef production by eating less meat or personally shut down a
natural gas power plant. But if you’re a homeowner, it’s up to you
whether or not you’re burning fossil fuels every time you heat your
home, use hot water, dry your clothes, or cook food. Together, these
activities account for about
7%
of annual U.S. fossil fuel-related carbon emissions.
That may not sound like a lot, but it adds up. When you buy a new
heating system or a new clothes dryer, you’re investing in a machine
you’re going to use for 15 to 20 years or more. You can decide to lock
in a system that burns fossil fuels and is guaranteed to add greenhouse
gases to the atmosphere throughout that time — or you can invest in one
that can drive down emissions as the electric grid becomes cleaner. (If
you want some advice for which new appliances to go with, we have
someguidesforthat.)
“There’s an inflection point that we’re facing right now,” Sara Baldwin,
the senior electrification director at the think tank Energy Innovation,
told me. “If we lock in another two decades of fossil fuel
infrastructure in our homes, we’ve got way more work down the line.”
That’s not to say these are easy changes to make. Perhaps it’s not even
totally fair to say “it’s up to you,” because for some homeowners, the
cost of making some of these changes will be out of reach. Electric
appliances are often more expensive to install than their fossil fuel
counterparts. And in some cases, as in places where natural gas is much
cheaper than electricity, the switch might also increase your energy
bills, even though the appliances themselves are more efficient.
If you have the means, though, the benefits can be significant.
Replacing your furnace with an electric heat pump — which can both heat
and cool your home — could have two-for-one benefits for those without
central air, especially as summers get hotter. Many homeowners also
praise the quieter, more even temperature control that heat pumps
provide. Electrify any of your appliances and you’ll also be helping to
reduce local outdoor air pollution; switch to an electric cooktop and
you’ll reduce indoor air pollution for you and your family, as well.
Another way to think about electrification is as a chance to leave your
mark on the world. Political scientist Leah Stokes, who serves as policy
counsel to the electrification advocacy group Rewiring America in
addition to teaching at the University of California, Santa Barbara,
told me she likes to think of the appliances in our homes as “the
infrastructure that we are in charge of.” You can lobby your
representatives to build bike lanes, but the decision is mostly out of
your hands. You’re the only one that can decide to change out your
furnace or your water heater, however. “These are huge opportunities for
us to make legacy impacts on carbon pollution,” Stokes said. And unlike
behavioral changes such as eating vegetarian, you only have to do it
once. “If you sell that house, if you die, it’s a piece of
infrastructure that continues on.”
Making these changes won’t necessarily result in immediate emission
reductions. It depends on where you live and where your power comes
from. If a lot of your electricity comes from coal, for example, a
natural gas furnace might emit less carbon than even the most efficient
heat pump. But that’s just how the math works out today. Researchers who
have modeled out the emissions impacts over the average lifetime of the
equipment — about 16 years — have found that as the grid continues along
its trajectory of getting cleaner,
heat
pumps will emit less carbon overall in every state.
Not every home electrification project will get you the same carbon bang
for your buck. Space heating is by far the most energy-intensive thing
we do in our homes, so from an emissions standpoint, replacing your
boiler or furnace is the most effective change you can make. Clothes
dryers and stoves use so little energy, comparatively, that swapping
them out looks almost inconsequential for the climate, at least on
paper.
But the reason electrifying your home can be such a high leverage action
is not just because of the absolute emission reductions you can achieve.
It can also accelerate structural changes. If you’re currently a natural
gas customer, going fully electric means you’ll be able to disconnect
from the local distribution system and stop paying into the pool of
funds used to maintain it. That can increase rates for the remaining
customers, which is far from ideal. But it also makes the economics of
electrification more attractive.
“It’s very important that we can’t leave low income people behind,” said
Stokes. “But the more folks who get off of gas, even a small number, it
can really start to force the question of, should we start thinking
about if we should be investing hundreds of millions of dollars into
aging gas infrastructure? Or should we use that money to subsidize
electrification for low income folks?”
So, where to begin? Space heating is the biggest opportunity, but it’s
also the most expensive and complicated project. There’s no reason you
have to start there, especially if your existing heater has a lot of
life left in it. “Don’t start with the hardest thing,” said Baldwin. “If
it feels daunting, start with the easiest thing, or start with something
that feels within reach.”
Larry Waters, an HVAC contractor I interviewed for our heat pump guide,
recommends making a “gas inventory” — a list of all of your gas
appliances and how old they are. Replace whichever appliance is nearest
to the end of its useful life first, but plan ahead for future projects.
Figure out if you’ll need to budget in an electrical upgrade, or if you
can combine any of the work to save money.
The following guides will help you navigate each of these projects, with
recommendations from experts who are on the ground, helping homeowners
through this every day.
The term “heat pump” refers to any system that can extract heat from a
colder space and transfer it to a warmer one. For example, refrigerators
use heat pumps to remove heat from inside the fridge and expel it into
your kitchen. Air conditioners use heat pumps to remove heat from inside
the house and dump it outside. In this guide, the phrase “heat pump”
refers specifically to HVAC equipment that is capable of both heating
and cooling the air inside a home. In other words,
we’re talking about air conditioners that can also run in reverse,
pulling heat from outside on a winter day and pumping it inside.
We’ve created this guide because when it comes to getting off fossil
fuels, it does matter what you replace them with.
Climate advocates tout electric heat pumps because they can create two
to three times more heat per unit of energy than other heating
equipment. Electric resistance heating, by contrast, is extremely
wasteful, and if people start installing those systems en masse, that
could actually increase emissions in the near term and make it
more difficult to decarbonize the economy in the long
term. By getting a heat pump, you won’t just be cutting emissions,
you’ll be reducing the cost of cleaning up the electric grid because
we’ll need less electricity overall.
That said, a poorly designed or installed system can negate many of the
benefits that heat pumps have to offer. Whether you’re reading because
you want to cut emissions, or save money on energy, or take advantage of
the steady, quiet comfort heat pumps provide, it’s essential to do your
homework and find a good contractor to work with. In this guide, we’ll
cover how to know when it’s the right time to get heat pumps, the basics
of understanding what your options are, common misconceptions about heat
pumps, how to find and vet contractors, and more.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Larry Waters is the
founder
and president of Electrify My Home, a heating and air
conditioning contractor in Northern California that specializes in heat
pumps. Waters has worked in the HVAC industry for more than 40 years.
D.R. Richardson is the
co-founder
of Elephant Energy, a Boulder, Colorado-based startup that helps
homeowners in Colorado and Massachusetts electrify by using building
science and proprietary software to ensure good system design, and by
managing all aspects of the project.
Find at least three heat pump-proficient contractors and
get quotes.
Consider trade-offs on system design, cost,
and efficiency and choose an installer.
Installer will take care of permitting and inspections. Then you can
schedule installation.
THE BASICS
There are many, many kinds of electric heat pumps used for space heating
and cooling. At a high level, there are two main categories that
homeowners can typically choose from:
Air source systems pull heat out of the ambient air.
These are the most common.
Geothermal or ground-source systems
pull heat out of the ground. These are much more efficient than
air-source versions, especially when providing heating in the coldest
northern climates, but are more expensive to install.
Within each of these are a handful of installation options:
Ducted systems have a similar footprint to a furnace or
central air conditioner, including one big piece of equipment in the
basement, attic, or crawlspace that forces hot or cold air into ducts
distributed throughout your house and another big piece of equipment
that sits outside. They typically have better air filtration
capabilities than ductless systems.
Ductless systems, often referred to as
mini-splits or multi-splits, also have
both indoor and outdoor components, but the indoor units are designed to
cool a single room or zone of the house. The indoor unit can be a
wall-mounted “cassette,” or it can be hidden away in the wall or ceiling
and force air through a vent.
There are also slim duct or compact
ducted systems, which take a little bit from both approaches.
The indoor unit can be hidden in the ceiling or floor, and they utilize
a small duct system to heat/cool two or three adjacent rooms.
Air to water heat pumps heat or chill water and
circulate it through a building. These are common in Europe but less so
in the U.S. Marin said they can be a good option for some homes that
already have water-based HVAC systems like radiant floors, ceilings, or
walls; hydronic fan coils; or panel radiators. Unfortunately, the
technology can’t currently integrate into homes that use cast-iron
radiators.
The above designs aren’t mutually exclusive. You can install a system
that’s fully ducted, fully ductless, or a combination of both. You can
also combine a heat pump system with a fuel-burning furnace or boiler,
known as a dual-fuel system. If aesthetics are
important to you, there are also companies like
Quilt
that offer versions that can better integrate into the look of your
home.
A note on ductwork
Using existing ductwork can be one of the most cost-effective ways to
install a heat pump, but it’s not always the right one. Ducts that were
designed to distribute air from a furnace or an air conditioner might be
too small to work well with a heat pump. That’s because furnaces put out
hotter air than heat pumps, and so don’t require as much air to flow
through the system to distribute the heat around. In those cases,
Richardson typically recommends ductless heat pumps, because replacing
ductwork can be a very expensive and disruptive endeavor.
You’ll also want to replace (or forego using) your ductwork if it’s more
than 20 years old, Waters told me. If you do reuse your ductwork, you’ll
want to make sure your contractor ensures that it is insulated and
well-sealed.
There are cases where it may make sense to install new ductwork if your
house doesn’t already have it — if you have an unfinished attic, for
example, you may want to install ducts in the floor to reach all the
rooms in the top floor of your home. You could do the same thing in the
ceiling of an unfinished basement.
“Ductwork in unfinished space is easy. Ductwork in finished
space is so expensive and hard that we typically don’t recommend it,”
said Richardson.
Heat pumps also come in models with different “speeds” or “stages”:
Single speed or single stage heat
pumps are always either on at full capacity or off. These are
the cheapest heat pumps on the market, but also the worst when it comes
to efficiency and may cost you more in the long run. These are typically
not eligible for incentive programs, either.
By contrast, variable speed heat pumps (also known as
inverter heat pumps) can run at lower speeds and are
much more efficient. Rather than cycling on, blasting hot or cold air to
meet the temperature you want, and then cycling off, variable speed heat
pumps modulate their capacity continuously and can run at very slow
speeds to maintain the set temperature. They are the most expensive, but
also the most efficient models. All three of our experts prefer variable
speed systems.
In between, there are also two-stage and
multistage versions that can operate at a range of fixed
speeds.
There are also some technical specifications to be aware of, such as
seasonal efficiency ratings:
SEER2 is the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio
(or Rating), which is generally a measure of the efficiency of
the device when it’s in cooling mode. (The 2 refers to new federal
standards that went into effect in 2023.) A higher number = more
efficient.
HSPF2 is the Heating Seasonal Performance
Factor, which is generally a measure of the efficiency of the
device when it’s in heating mode. Again, a higher number = more
efficient.
The highest rated SEER2 device may have a lower HSPF2 rating, while the
highest rated HSPF2 device may have a lower SEER2 rating.
If you live in a climate with long, cold winters, you should prioritize
a higher HSPF2.
Prioritize SEER2 if you live somewhere with long, hot summers and milder
winters.
What’s a “cold climate” heat pump?
The term “cold climate” heat pump is squishier than it sounds. It
generally refers to heat pumps that heat effectively and maintain their
efficiency when the temperature drops well below freezing for extended
periods of time. The Northeast Energy Efficiency Partnership, or NEEP,
is a regional nonprofit that
maintains a
list of models that it considers to be cold climate heat pumps,
and defines them as ductless, variable speed systems with an HSPF2
greater than 8.5 or ducted, variable speed systems with an HSPF2 greater
than 7.7, among other technical specifications. The EPA’s EnergyStar
program has
a
slightly different definition for its “cold climate”
designation.
Finally, heat pumps also come in many different sizes. Having a
properly sized system is one of the most important factors for ensuring
your heat pumps run efficiently and last a long time.
A good contractor will be able to walk you through different system
designs and equipment options to find the answer that’s best suited to
your house, your goals, and your budget.
“There’s a lot of companies out there that offer just
what they have in the catalog and their salespeople can’t sell anything
outside of that,” Waters told me. “That means the customer is going to
get matched with that cookie cutter option if they go with that company.
So how to choose a contractor is one of the most important
things.”
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
How does having a heat pump differ from a furnace or boiler?
Many people are used to setting their HVAC systems to different
temperatures at different times of day — one temp for the morning and
evening, another for when they leave for work, and another for bedtime.
This makes sense with many furnaces and air conditioners because they’re
usually designed to cycle on, blast hot or cold air at full capacity
until they achieve the temperature you want, and then turn off, so
turning down the system when you’re not home can save a lot of energy.
But the most efficient “variable speed” heat pumps work differently —
they use a lot of energy to reach a certain temperature, but once they
hit it, they sip small amounts of energy to maintain it. Experts say a
“set it and forget it” approach will give you the most efficient
performance and the most consistent energy bills.
“Don’t worry about the number,” says Marin. “Just find your
comfortable temperature, and then leave it alone, forget it’s even
there.”
Do I need to keep my boiler or furnace as a back-up system?
This topic can be divisive among HVAC experts, but in most of the
continental U.S., you should be able to find a heat pump solution that
will heat your home efficiently on the coldest winter days. The key is
that the system has to be sized correctly. Richardson’s company,
Elephant Energy, works in Colorado, where he says they’ve had two years
in a row with days that got down to -13 degrees Fahrenheit, “and our
fleet of hundreds of heat pumps have cranked out heat to keep homes nice
and warm on those coldest days.”
There still may be scenarios
where you want to keep your furnace as a back-up, even if it’s
not strictly necessary.
Maybe you don’t want to spend extra on a heat pump that’s rated for the
coldest temps, so you keep your other system to kick on when the mercury
drops below a certain level.
Maybe you live in a place where gas is currently much cheaper than
electricity. With a dual-fuel system you can reduce your gas use and
your emissions without relying solely on electricity. In the future, if
gas prices go up or electricity prices come down, you can always change
the temperature at which the system switches over to use more of one and
less of the other.
Maybe you haven’t weatherized your house and aren’t ready to do so yet,
but you do really want or need a heat pump. In this case, you can talk
to your contractor about getting a variable speed heat pump sized to
what they anticipate your home’s load will be once it is weatherized in
the future. That means it will technically be undersized in the near
term, but if you keep your existing furnace or boiler, it can make up
the difference in the meantime. This way, after you weatherize, you can
get rid of the back-up fuel system and rely fully on the heat pump. It
“might buy you the flexibility to do things in a different order,” says
Marin.
Will a heat pump help me save money?
If you’re switching from fuel oil, propane, or electric resistance
heating, you’re pretty much guaranteed to save money on your bills with
heat pumps. But if you’re switching from natural gas, it really
depends
on where you live.
Richardson says that for a lot of his customers in Colorado, making the
switch from gas to inverter heat pumps is cost neutral — they end up
paying a bit more for heating in the winter but less for cooling in the
summer, since the heat pump is often more efficient than whatever air
conditioning they were replacing. At the same time, those who don’t have
air conditioning to start with could end up paying a bit more
year-round.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Is it the right time to get heat pumps? Here are a few scenarios to
consider.
Do you…
Have a relatively new (less-than-10-year-old) heating and/or
cooling system in your house?
Short answer: Hold off on a heat pump, invest in
weatherization.
Long answer: You may have arrived at this guide because
you’re interested in decarbonizing your home, but if you have a
relatively new heating and/or cooling system, it could actually be
worse, emissions-wise, to replace it, due to the
embedded carbon that went into manufacturing that equipment. Unless
you’re really desperate to replace your existing system for comfort or
financial reasons (if you have electric resistance heaters, for example,
switching to heat pumps could save you a lot of money, since they use
about a third of the electricity), we recommend getting a bit more life
out of it first.
In the meantime, put your enthusiasm for decarbonization into making
your home more efficient. Insulating and air sealing your home before
you get heat pumps will help you save money in the near term and get you
the best results from heat pumps later on.
Have a relatively new heating system, but an older (or
non-existent) air conditioner?
Short answer: Consider a dual fuel system
Long answer: If you really need a new air conditioning
system but your heater still has a lot of life left in it, consider
installing a heat pump to work alongside your existing furnace or
boiler. That way, you’ll get efficient cooling capacity that will save
you money in the summer, and you’ll also be able to cut down on your
fossil fuel consumption in the winter. You can set the heat pump to warm
your home until it gets down to a certain temperature outside, at which
point your furnace or boiler will kick in. (Many heat pump models can
operate in very cold temperatures, so having a backup heating system
like this is not necessary, but it may be a good intermediate step in
certain cases.)
Have a furnace or boiler that’s more than 10 years old?
Short
answer: It’s the perfect time to think about heat pumps!
Long answer: HVAC equipment typically lasts for 15 to
20 years, so 10 years is probably the earliest you would want to start
thinking about a replacement. It’s probably safe to wait a few years
longer, but you definitely don’t want to wait until your existing system
breaks to start your heat pump journey. A heat pump retrofit can be a
months-long process, from finding contractors, to evaluating quotes, to
refining your plan, to getting permits and scheduling the work. If
you’re in an emergency situation where your boiler broke and you really
need heat, you could be forced to settle for a less-than-ideal solution.
At the very least, start your research now and consider weatherization
upgrades.
Have one room or area of your house that’s particularly hot or
cold?
Short
answer: Get a mini-split!
Long answer: Ductless mini-split heat pumps are a
no-brainer to provide heating and cooling to a single room or zone. They
can be very affordable — and in some cases free — with rebates and tax
credits. If you want to retrofit the rest of your home to use heat pumps
down the line, this will help you get familiar with the technology and
will not preclude you from adding more later — though it is helpful to
tell your contractor that now so they can take it into account.
A note on insulation and air sealing
No contractor is going to force you to weatherize your home before you
get heat pumps, and it is possible to benefit from heat pumps without
weatherizing first. But any building expert worth their salt is going to
recommend it. “I think it goes somewhat without saying that in an ideal
world, everyone would have an updated, weatherized building before they
put in a heat pump,” Marin told me. Otherwise, not only will your heat
pump have to work harder in the short term, if you do some air sealing
or insulation work down the line, then your heat pump will end up being
oversized and not run as efficiently as it did.
“We also live in the real world and know that not everybody has the
money and time and willingness to do everything all at once,” Marin
says, “and if they’re in a position where they are putting in an air
conditioner, and now is the time, and they really want a heat pump, we
would absolutely support them in doing that, even if they had not
weatherized.”
Heat pumps can be a major investment. If you just want to add heating or
cooling capacity to one or two rooms, it can cost $5,000 to $7,000 per
room, on average, before incentives, Richardson told me. A whole-home
solution averages $20,000 to $30,000 before incentives, but depending on
the home and the system design can go much higher.
Think about your goals
Do you have some rooms that are hotter in the summer or colder in the
winter than others and you want to make your home more comfortable
overall? Or is your goal to get better air filtration and ventilation?
Or do you simply want to get off fossil fuels? It will be helpful to
think through what you want to achieve and communicate that to your
contractor so they can take that into account when they design your
system.
Learn about incentives
The federal government offers a
30%
tax credit for heat pumps, up to $2,000, not including labor,
for certain energy efficient models. (Note that you can only get the
full tax credit if you have $2,000 or more in tax liability the year you
install the heat pumps.) The credit can’t be rolled over to the next tax
year, but you can claim it in multiple years. Your
state energy office, city, or utility may offer additional tax credits
or rebates.
It’s important to learn about what’s available in your area before
reaching out to contractors because some rebate programs require you to
work only with approved partners. Also, the contractors you reach out to
might not always be up to date on the latest incentive programs, so it’s
a good idea to do some independent research and make sure you find
someone who knows how to help you take advantage. There is,
unfortunately, not yet any single directory where you can enter your zip
code and find out about every possible rebate opportunity everywhere in
the country, so it’s best to check multiple sources of information:
First, check your state energy office’s website. Many states are in the
process of revamping or expanding their heat pump rebate programs thanks
to new federal funding.
If you live in a major city, check with your city’s energy,
sustainability, or buildings department.
The EPA’s Energy Star site has a
rebate
finder where you can enter your zip code and learn about state
or utility-run incentives.
Also try checking your utility’s website.
Some equipment manufacturers, like
Mitsubishi,
have rebate finders.
If you’re counting on subsidies to be able to afford your system, pay
close attention to the models your contractor is recommending and make
sure they are actually eligible for the subsidies. For example, Waters
says that there are very few models of the largest sized heat pumps that
are efficient enough to qualify for federal subsidies.
Richardson warned that some rebate programs incentivize bad design.
Xcel, in Colorado, offers more money for bigger systems, encouraging
homeowners to oversize their systems. Talk to your contractor about the
trade-offs of rebates vs. right-sizing your system.
Also be aware that in some places, rebates are tied to additional
requirements. Massachusetts, for example, offers $10,000 for heat pumps,
but they must fully replace the existing heating system and the home
must first be weatherized.
As with all home renovation projects, we strongly recommend getting
at least threequotes
from different contractors.
Heat pumps are common in some parts of the country, but in others it
might be difficult to find a contractor who really knows their stuff.
Dip your toes in a heat pump Reddit forum and you’ll find scores of
homeowners asking what to do after a contractor told them that heat
pumps don’t work and they should just stick with gas. Here are a
few strategies for finding high quality heat pump contractors, in order
of what we recommend:
Do a search for companies in your area who specialize in “building
electrification” or “home decarbonization.” There are some HVAC
companies, like Waters’, that have made electrification their focus, and
they are more likely to be up to date on the latest technologies and
training. There are also startups like Elephant whose entire business
model is based on helping homeowners manage these projects, and will
match you with pre-vetted local contractors.
Look at the leading heat pump manufacturers’ directories of approved
contractors. For example, Mitsubishi’s
directory
of “independent Diamond contractors” are HVAC pros that have
received extensive training on the equipment and working with someone in
this network can extend your equipment warranty. (Other leading brands
of inverter-based systems include Daikin and Fujitsu.)
Do you know any friends, family, or neighbors that have heat pumps? Ask
them if they were happy with their experience. Which companies did they
talk to? Who did they decide to work with and why? If you don’t know
anyone who has done a heat pump retrofit, look for electrification
Facebook groups or heat pump Reddit threads, where participants may have
recommendations for your area.
The Building Performance Institute is an accreditation group that
certifies companies, energy auditors, and technicians in the latest
building science. You can search for certified professionals in your
area using
BPI’s online
directory.
Check if your state energy office or utility has an online directory of
heat pump installers. Many rebate programs also require you to work with
approved partner contractors.
Try using
EnergySage,
which will have you enter your address and then source quotes for you
from installers that serve your area. (Note: This service is not
available everywhere.)
How to Vet Contractors
Finding the right contractor is probably the most important decision
you’ll make in this entire process, and it’s not uncommon to get quotes
with wildly different recommendations. Here are some questions you can
ask to help you get a sense of who really knows what they are talking
about and is willing to go the whole nine yards to make sure you get a
properly designed system:
Will you do a “Manual J” load calculation to determine how much air
and energy I need in each room?
Manual J is a formula that helps a contractor identify the right size
HVAC system for your home. It requires taking detailed measurements
throughout the building, inspecting your home’s insulation and other
elements that will affect airflow and heat retention, and performing
tests such as the “blower door” to assess how leaky your building’s
envelope is. If you’re interested in using your ductwork or installing
new ductwork, they should also perform a “Manual D” calculation. Waters
told me that despite these calculations being industry standards, very
few contractors actually go through the trouble of doing them. “What
this does, it tells us exactly what size system I need for heating and
cooling, and exactly how much air goes into each room,” he said.
Richards agreed, adding that you may want to ask what technology they
use to size the system. “You need somebody who has a technology-driven
tool that can actually measure the heating and cooling requirements of
your home,” he says. “Are you doing a true Manual J, or are you sort of
sticking your finger up in the air?”
Do you install more than one brand of heat pump? How many heat pump
installations have you done?
If your contractor only works with one brand of equipment, you’re more
likely to get a solution that’s convenient for them rather than one
that’s custom designed for you.
Will you take a comprehensive look at my ductwork? Do you recommend
new registers?
Waters told me the registers — the vents that release air into a given
room — are critical for occupant comfort. If your existing ductwork is
designed to distribute air from a furnace, your registers may be
designed to push air into the middle of the room. But with heat pumps,
you want the air either pushed up toward the ceiling if the vents are
down low or across the ceiling if they are up high, so that the house
doesn’t feel drafty and you get proper circulation.
Will you evaluate my electrical system for my home’s future
electrification needs?
If you’re starting with heat pumps but you eventually want to electrify
your stove, your clothes dryer, or your car, your home may need an
electric panel upgrade or an electric service upgrade from the utility.
What you don’t want is to put in heat pumps that eat up the rest of your
home’s capacity and then have to deal with pricey upgrades down the
line.
Are you BPI and/or NATE certified?
The Building Performance Institute and North American Technician
Excellence are two organizations that train and certify contractors,
auditors, and technicians in the latest building science and best
practices. A certification doesn’t guarantee you’ve found the right
contractor — it could mean they know a lot about installing heat pumps
but still don’t know much about the models that work in the coldest
climates, for instance. But it’s a helpful data point that shows they
are investing in training.
A note on comparing quotes
There’s usually going to be an option that costs you the least up front,
and one that will cost you the least to operate, and those are not going
to use the same equipment, said Waters. He recommends spending a little
bit more up front to get a system that will use less energy, but you’ll
have to choose what’s right for you.
Unlike with solar panels, calculating a “payback period” for a heat pump
retrofit is not really a thing. Some contractors may be able to help you
estimate your future utility bills, and there are calculators online
that can give you a rough idea. But there are so many factors that can
influence the outcome, said Marin, that these tools are not very
accurate.
Pay close attention to warranties. Contractors may offer different
lengths of equipment warranty and labor warranty.
WHAT’S NEXT?
After you’ve found a contractor or company to work with, settled on a
system design, and secured financing, your installer is going to need to
secure permits for the work. Then you’ll need to schedule the
installation, which, depending on how busy your contractor is, can take
several weeks to several months. The actual work should take one to
three days, depending on how complicated it is.
Also — talk to your contractor about maintenance. Be sure to clean the
filters regularly and do anything else they recommend to get the best
performance and longest life out of your equipment.
One last note…
If you are looking for more information, there are a LOT of amazing
resources where you can learn more about heat pumps. Here are a few we
like:
The term “heat pump” refers to any system that can extract heat from a
colder space and transfer it to a warmer one. For example, refrigerators
use heat pumps to remove heat from inside the fridge and expel it into
your kitchen. Air conditioners use heat pumps to remove heat from inside
the house and dump it outside. In this guide, the phrase “heat pump”
refers specifically to HVAC equipment that is capable of both heating
and cooling the air inside a home. In other words,
we’re talking about air conditioners that can also run in reverse,
pulling heat from outside on a winter day and pumping it inside.
We’ve created this guide because when it comes to getting off fossil
fuels, it does matter what you replace them with.
Climate advocates tout electric heat pumps because they can create two
to three times more heat per unit of energy than other heating
equipment. Electric resistance heating, by contrast, is extremely
wasteful, and if people start installing those systems en masse, that
could actually increase emissions in the near term and make it
more difficult to decarbonize the economy in the long
term. By getting a heat pump, you won’t just be cutting emissions,
you’ll be reducing the cost of cleaning up the electric grid because
we’ll need less electricity overall.
That said, a poorly designed or installed system can negate many of the
benefits that heat pumps have to offer. Whether you’re reading because
you want to cut emissions, or save money on energy, or take advantage of
the steady, quiet comfort heat pumps provide, it’s essential to do your
homework and find a good contractor to work with. In this guide, we’ll
cover how to know when it’s the right time to get heat pumps, the basics
of understanding what your options are, common misconceptions about heat
pumps, how to find and vet contractors, and more.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Larry Waters is the
founder
and president of Electrify My Home, a heating and air
conditioning contractor in Northern California that specializes in heat
pumps. Waters has worked in the HVAC industry for more than 40 years.
D.R. Richardson is the
co-founder
of Elephant Energy, a Boulder, Colorado-based startup that helps
homeowners in Colorado and Massachusetts electrify by using building
science and proprietary software to ensure good system design, and by
managing all aspects of the project.
Find at least three heat pump-proficient contractors and
get quotes.
Consider trade-offs on system design, cost,
and efficiency and choose an installer.
Installer will take care of permitting and inspections. Then you can
schedule installation.
THE BASICS
There are many, many kinds of electric heat pumps used for space heating
and cooling. At a high level, there are two main categories that
homeowners can typically choose from:
Air source systems pull heat out of the ambient air.
These are the most common.
Geothermal or ground-source systems
pull heat out of the ground. These are much more efficient than
air-source versions, especially when providing heating in the coldest
northern climates, but are more expensive to install.
Within each of these are a handful of installation options:
Ducted systems have a similar footprint to a furnace or
central air conditioner, including one big piece of equipment in the
basement, attic, or crawlspace that forces hot or cold air into ducts
distributed throughout your house and another big piece of equipment
that sits outside. They typically have better air filtration
capabilities than ductless systems.
Ductless systems, often referred to as
mini-splits or multi-splits, also have
both indoor and outdoor components, but the indoor units are designed to
cool a single room or zone of the house. The indoor unit can be a
wall-mounted “cassette,” or it can be hidden away in the wall or ceiling
and force air through a vent.
There are also slim duct or compact
ducted systems, which take a little bit from both approaches.
The indoor unit can be hidden in the ceiling or floor, and they utilize
a small duct system to heat/cool two or three adjacent rooms.
Air to water heat pumps heat or chill water and
circulate it through a building. These are common in Europe but less so
in the U.S. Marin said they can be a good option for some homes that
already have water-based HVAC systems like radiant floors, ceilings, or
walls; hydronic fan coils; or panel radiators. Unfortunately, the
technology can’t currently integrate into homes that use cast-iron
radiators.
The above designs aren’t mutually exclusive. You can install a system
that’s fully ducted, fully ductless, or a combination of both. You can
also combine a heat pump system with a fuel-burning furnace or boiler,
known as a dual-fuel system. If aesthetics are
important to you, there are also companies like
Quilt
that offer versions that can better integrate into the look of your
home.
A note on ductwork
Using existing ductwork can be one of the most cost-effective ways to install a heat pump, but it’s not always the right one. Ducts that were designed to distribute air from a furnace or an air conditioner might be too small to work well with a heat pump. That’s because furnaces put out hotter air than heat pumps, and so don’t require as much air to flow through the system to distribute the heat around. In those cases, Richardson typically recommends ductless heat pumps, because replacing ductwork can be a very expensive and disruptive endeavor.
</div>
You’ll also want to replace (or forego using) your ductwork if it's more than 20 years old, Waters told me. If you do reuse your ductwork, you’ll want to make sure your contractor ensures that it is insulated and well-sealed.
</div>
There are cases where it may make sense to install new ductwork if your house doesn’t already have it — if you have an unfinished attic, for example, you may want to install ducts in the floor to reach all the rooms in the top floor of your home. You could do the same thing in the ceiling of an unfinished basement.
</div>
“Ductwork in unfinished space is easy. Ductwork in finished
space is so expensive and hard that we typically don’t recommend it,”
said Richardson.
Heat pumps also come in models with different “speeds” or “stages”:
Single speed or single stage heat
pumps are always either on at full capacity or off. These are
the cheapest heat pumps on the market, but also the worst when it comes
to efficiency and may cost you more in the long run. These are typically
not eligible for incentive programs, either.
By contrast, variable speed heat pumps (also known as
inverter heat pumps) can run at lower speeds and are
much more efficient. Rather than cycling on, blasting hot or cold air to
meet the temperature you want, and then cycling off, variable speed heat
pumps modulate their capacity continuously and can run at very slow
speeds to maintain the set temperature. They are the most expensive, but
also the most efficient models. All three of our experts prefer variable
speed systems.
In between, there are also two-stage and
multistage versions that can operate at a range of fixed
speeds.
There are also some technical specifications to be aware of, such as
seasonal efficiency ratings:
SEER2 is the Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio
(or Rating), which is generally a measure of the efficiency of
the device when it’s in cooling mode. (The 2 refers to new federal
standards that went into effect in 2023.) A higher number = more
efficient.
HSPF2 is the Heating Seasonal Performance
Factor, which is generally a measure of the efficiency of the
device when it’s in heating mode. Again, a higher number = more
efficient.
The highest rated SEER2 device may have a lower HSPF2 rating, while the
highest rated HSPF2 device may have a lower SEER2 rating.
If you live in a climate with long, cold winters, you should prioritize
a higher HSPF2.
Prioritize SEER2 if you live somewhere with long, hot summers and milder
winters.
What’s a “cold climate” heat pump?
The term “cold climate” heat pump is squishier than it sounds. It generally refers to heat pumps that heat effectively and maintain their efficiency when the temperature drops well below freezing for extended periods of time. The Northeast Energy Efficiency Partnership, or NEEP, is a regional nonprofit that
<a href="https://ashp.neep.org/#!/" target="_blank"><u>maintains a list</u></a> of models that it considers to be cold climate heat pumps, and defines them as ductless, variable speed systems with an HSPF2 greater than 8.5 or ducted, variable speed systems with an HSPF2 greater than 7.7, among other technical specifications. The EPA’s EnergyStar program has <a href="https://www.energystar.gov/products/heat_pump_water_heaters/key-product-criteria" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank"><u>a slightly different definition</u></a> for its “cold climate” designation.
</div>
Finally, heat pumps also come in many different sizes. Having a
properly sized system is one of the most important factors for ensuring
your heat pumps run efficiently and last a long time.
A good contractor will be able to walk you through different system
designs and equipment options to find the answer that’s best suited to
your house, your goals, and your budget.
“There’s a lot of companies out there that offer just
what they have in the catalog and their salespeople can’t sell anything
outside of that,” Waters told me. “That means the customer is going to
get matched with that cookie cutter option if they go with that company.
So how to choose a contractor is one of the most important
things.”
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
How does having a heat pump differ from a furnace or boiler?
Many people are used to setting their HVAC systems to different
temperatures at different times of day — one temp for the morning and
evening, another for when they leave for work, and another for bedtime.
This makes sense with many furnaces and air conditioners because they’re
usually designed to cycle on, blast hot or cold air at full capacity
until they achieve the temperature you want, and then turn off, so
turning down the system when you’re not home can save a lot of energy.
But the most efficient “variable speed” heat pumps work differently —
they use a lot of energy to reach a certain temperature, but once they
hit it, they sip small amounts of energy to maintain it. Experts say a
“set it and forget it” approach will give you the most efficient
performance and the most consistent energy bills.
“Don’t worry about the number,” says Marin. “Just find your
comfortable temperature, and then leave it alone, forget it’s even
there.”
Do I need to keep my boiler or furnace as a back-up system?
This topic can be divisive among HVAC experts, but in most of the
continental U.S., you should be able to find a heat pump solution that
will heat your home efficiently on the coldest winter days. The key is
that the system has to be sized correctly. Richardson’s company,
Elephant Energy, works in Colorado, where he says they’ve had two years
in a row with days that got down to -13 degrees Fahrenheit, “and our
fleet of hundreds of heat pumps have cranked out heat to keep homes nice
and warm on those coldest days.”
There still may be
scenarios where you want to keep your furnace as a back-up,
even if it’s not strictly necessary.
Maybe you don’t want to spend extra on a heat pump that’s rated for the
coldest temps, so you keep your other system to kick on when the mercury
drops below a certain level.
Maybe you live in a place where gas is currently much cheaper than
electricity. With a dual-fuel system you can reduce your gas use and
your emissions without relying solely on electricity. In the future, if
gas prices go up or electricity prices come down, you can always change
the temperature at which the system switches over to use more of one and
less of the other.
Maybe you haven’t weatherized your house and aren’t ready to do so yet,
but you do really want or need a heat pump. In this case, you can talk
to your contractor about getting a variable speed heat pump sized to
what they anticipate your home’s load will be once it is weatherized in
the future. That means it will technically be undersized in the near
term, but if you keep your existing furnace or boiler, it can make up
the difference in the meantime. This way, after you weatherize, you can
get rid of the back-up fuel system and rely fully on the heat pump. It
“might buy you the flexibility to do things in a different order,” says
Marin.
Will a heat pump help me save money?
If you’re switching from fuel oil, propane, or electric resistance
heating, you’re pretty much guaranteed to save money on your bills with
heat pumps. But if you’re switching from natural gas, it really
depends
on where you live.
Richardson says that for a lot of his customers in Colorado, making the
switch from gas to inverter heat pumps is cost neutral — they end up
paying a bit more for heating in the winter but less for cooling in the
summer, since the heat pump is often more efficient than whatever air
conditioning they were replacing. At the same time, those who don’t have
air conditioning to start with could end up paying a bit more
year-round.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Is it the right time to get heat pumps? Here are a few scenarios to
consider.
Do you…
Have a relatively new (less-than-10-year-old) heating and/or
cooling system in your house?
Short answer: Hold off on a heat pump, invest in
weatherization.
Long answer: You may have arrived at this guide because
you’re interested in decarbonizing your home, but if you have a
relatively new heating and/or cooling system, it could actually be
worse, emissions-wise, to replace it, due to the
embedded carbon that went into manufacturing that equipment. Unless
you’re really desperate to replace your existing system for comfort or
financial reasons (if you have electric resistance heaters, for example,
switching to heat pumps could save you a lot of money, since they use
about a third of the electricity), we recommend getting a bit more life
out of it first.
In the meantime, put your enthusiasm for decarbonization into making
your home more efficient. Insulating and air sealing your home before
you get heat pumps will help you save money in the near term and get you
the best results from heat pumps later on.
Have a relatively new heating system, but an older (or
non-existent) air conditioner?
Short answer: Consider a dual fuel system
Long answer: If you really need a new air conditioning
system but your heater still has a lot of life left in it, consider
installing a heat pump to work alongside your existing furnace or
boiler. That way, you’ll get efficient cooling capacity that will save
you money in the summer, and you’ll also be able to cut down on your
fossil fuel consumption in the winter. You can set the heat pump to warm
your home until it gets down to a certain temperature outside, at which
point your furnace or boiler will kick in. (Many heat pump models can
operate in very cold temperatures, so having a backup heating system
like this is not necessary, but it may be a good intermediate step in
certain cases.)
Have a furnace or boiler that’s more than 10 years old?
Short
answer: It’s the perfect time to think about heat pumps!
Long answer: HVAC equipment typically lasts for 15 to
20 years, so 10 years is probably the earliest you would want to start
thinking about a replacement. It’s probably safe to wait a few years
longer, but you definitely don’t want to wait until your existing system
breaks to start your heat pump journey. A heat pump retrofit can be a
months-long process, from finding contractors, to evaluating quotes, to
refining your plan, to getting permits and scheduling the work. If
you’re in an emergency situation where your boiler broke and you really
need heat, you could be forced to settle for a less-than-ideal solution.
At the very least, start your research now and consider weatherization
upgrades.
Have one room or area of your house that’s particularly hot or
cold?
Short
answer: Get a mini-split!
Long answer: Ductless mini-split heat pumps are a
no-brainer to provide heating and cooling to a single room or zone. They
can be very affordable — and in some cases free — with rebates and tax
credits. If you want to retrofit the rest of your home to use heat pumps
down the line, this will help you get familiar with the technology and
will not preclude you from adding more later — though it is helpful to
tell your contractor that now so they can take it into account.
A note on insulation and air sealing
No contractor is going to force you to weatherize your home before you
get heat pumps, and it is possible to benefit from heat pumps without
weatherizing first. But any building expert worth their salt is going to
recommend it. “I think it goes somewhat without saying that in an ideal
world, everyone would have an updated, weatherized building before they
put in a heat pump,” Marin told me. Otherwise, not only will your heat
pump have to work harder in the short term, if you do some air sealing
or insulation work down the line, then your heat pump will end up being
oversized and not run as efficiently as it did.
“We also live in the real world and know that not everybody has the
money and time and willingness to do everything all at once,” Marin
says, “and if they’re in a position where they are putting in an air
conditioner, and now is the time, and they really want a heat pump, we
would absolutely support them in doing that, even if they had not
weatherized.”
Heat pumps can be a major investment. If you just want to add heating or
cooling capacity to one or two rooms, it can cost $5,000 to $7,000 per
room, on average, before incentives, Richardson told me. A whole-home
solution averages $20,000 to $30,000 before incentives, but depending on
the home and the system design can go much higher.
Think about your goals
Do you have some rooms that are hotter in the summer or colder in the
winter than others and you want to make your home more comfortable
overall? Or is your goal to get better air filtration and ventilation?
Or do you simply want to get off fossil fuels? It will be helpful to
think through what you want to achieve and communicate that to your
contractor so they can take that into account when they design your
system.
Learn about incentives
The federal government offers a
30%
tax credit for heat pumps, up to $2,000, not including labor,
for certain energy efficient models. (Note that you can only get the
full tax credit if you have $2,000 or more in tax liability the year you
install the heat pumps.) The credit can’t be rolled over to the next tax
year, but you can claim it in multiple years. Your
state energy office, city, or utility may offer additional tax credits
or rebates.
It’s important to learn about what’s available in your area before
reaching out to contractors because some rebate programs require you to
work only with approved partners. Also, the contractors you reach out to
might not always be up to date on the latest incentive programs, so it’s
a good idea to do some independent research and make sure you find
someone who knows how to help you take advantage. There is,
unfortunately, not yet any single directory where you can enter your zip
code and find out about every possible rebate opportunity everywhere in
the country, so it’s best to check multiple sources of information:
First, check your state energy office’s website. Many states are in the
process of revamping or expanding their heat pump rebate programs thanks
to new federal funding.
If you live in a major city, check with your city’s energy,
sustainability, or buildings department.
The EPA’s Energy Star site has a
rebate
finder where you can enter your zip code and learn about state
or utility-run incentives.
Also try checking your utility’s website.
Some equipment manufacturers, like
Mitsubishi,
have rebate finders.
If you’re counting on subsidies to be able to afford your system, pay
close attention to the models your contractor is recommending and make
sure they are actually eligible for the subsidies. For example, Waters
says that there are very few models of the largest sized heat pumps that
are efficient enough to qualify for federal subsidies.
Richardson warned that some rebate programs incentivize bad design.
Xcel, in Colorado, offers more money for bigger systems, encouraging
homeowners to oversize their systems. Talk to your contractor about the
trade-offs of rebates vs. right-sizing your system.
Also be aware that in some places, rebates are tied to additional
requirements. Massachusetts, for example, offers $10,000 for heat pumps,
but they must fully replace the existing heating system and the home
must first be weatherized.
As with all home renovation projects, we strongly recommend getting
at least threequotes
from different contractors.
Heat pumps are common in some parts of the country, but in others it
might be difficult to find a contractor who really knows their stuff.
Dip your toes in a heat pump Reddit forum and you’ll find scores of
homeowners asking what to do after a contractor told them that heat
pumps don’t work and they should just stick with gas. Here are a
few strategies for finding high quality heat pump contractors, in order
of what we recommend:
Do a search for companies in your area who specialize in “building
electrification” or “home decarbonization.” There are some HVAC
companies, like Waters’, that have made electrification their focus, and
they are more likely to be up to date on the latest technologies and
training. There are also startups like Elephant whose entire business
model is based on helping homeowners manage these projects, and will
match you with pre-vetted local contractors.
Look at the leading heat pump manufacturers’ directories of approved
contractors. For example, Mitsubishi’s
directory
of “independent Diamond contractors” are HVAC pros that have
received extensive training on the equipment and working with someone in
this network can extend your equipment warranty. (Other leading brands
of inverter-based systems include Daikin and Fujitsu.)
Do you know any friends, family, or neighbors that have heat pumps? Ask
them if they were happy with their experience. Which companies did they
talk to? Who did they decide to work with and why? If you don’t know
anyone who has done a heat pump retrofit, look for electrification
Facebook groups or heat pump Reddit threads, where participants may have
recommendations for your area.
The Building Performance Institute is an accreditation group that
certifies companies, energy auditors, and technicians in the latest
building science. You can search for certified professionals in your
area using
BPI’s online
directory.
Check if your state energy office or utility has an online directory of
heat pump installers. Many rebate programs also require you to work with
approved partner contractors.
Try using
EnergySage,
which will have you enter your address and then source quotes for you
from installers that serve your area. (Note: This service is not
available everywhere.)
How to Vet Contractors
Finding the right contractor is probably the most important decision
you’ll make in this entire process, and it’s not uncommon to get quotes
with wildly different recommendations. Here are some questions you can
ask to help you get a sense of who really knows what they are talking
about and is willing to go the whole nine yards to make sure you get a
properly designed system:
Will you do a “Manual J” load calculation to determine how much air
and energy I need in each room?
Manual J is a formula that helps a contractor identify the right size
HVAC system for your home. It requires taking detailed measurements
throughout the building, inspecting your home’s insulation and other
elements that will affect airflow and heat retention, and performing
tests such as the “blower door” to assess how leaky your building’s
envelope is. If you’re interested in using your ductwork or installing
new ductwork, they should also perform a “Manual D” calculation. Waters
told me that despite these calculations being industry standards, very
few contractors actually go through the trouble of doing them. “What
this does, it tells us exactly what size system I need for heating and
cooling, and exactly how much air goes into each room,” he said.
Richards agreed, adding that you may want to ask what technology they
use to size the system. “You need somebody who has a technology-driven
tool that can actually measure the heating and cooling requirements of
your home,” he says. “Are you doing a true Manual J, or are you sort of
sticking your finger up in the air?”
Do you install more than one brand of heat pump? How many heat pump
installations have you done?
If your contractor only works with one brand of equipment, you’re more
likely to get a solution that’s convenient for them rather than one
that’s custom designed for you.
Will you take a comprehensive look at my ductwork? Do you recommend
new registers?
Waters told me the registers — the vents that release air into a given
room — are critical for occupant comfort. If your existing ductwork is
designed to distribute air from a furnace, your registers may be
designed to push air into the middle of the room. But with heat pumps,
you want the air either pushed up toward the ceiling if the vents are
down low or across the ceiling if they are up high, so that the house
doesn’t feel drafty and you get proper circulation.
Will you evaluate my electrical system for my home’s future
electrification needs?
If you’re starting with heat pumps but you eventually want to electrify
your stove, your clothes dryer, or your car, your home may need an
electric panel upgrade or an electric service upgrade from the utility.
What you don’t want is to put in heat pumps that eat up the rest of your
home’s capacity and then have to deal with pricey upgrades down the
line.
Are you BPI and/or NATE certified?
The Building Performance Institute and North American Technician
Excellence are two organizations that train and certify contractors,
auditors, and technicians in the latest building science and best
practices. A certification doesn’t guarantee you’ve found the right
contractor — it could mean they know a lot about installing heat pumps
but still don’t know much about the models that work in the coldest
climates, for instance. But it’s a helpful data point that shows they
are investing in training.
A note on comparing quotes
There’s usually going to be an option that costs you the least up front,
and one that will cost you the least to operate, and those are not going
to use the same equipment, said Waters. He recommends spending a little
bit more up front to get a system that will use less energy, but you’ll
have to choose what’s right for you.
Unlike with solar panels, calculating a “payback period” for a heat pump
retrofit is not really a thing. Some contractors may be able to help you
estimate your future utility bills, and there are calculators online
that can give you a rough idea. But there are so many factors that can
influence the outcome, said Marin, that these tools are not very
accurate.
Pay close attention to warranties. Contractors may offer different
lengths of equipment warranty and labor warranty.
WHAT’S NEXT?
After you’ve found a contractor or company to work with, settled on a
system design, and secured financing, your installer is going to need to
secure permits for the work. Then you’ll need to schedule the
installation, which, depending on how busy your contractor is, can take
several weeks to several months. The actual work should take one to
three days, depending on how complicated it is.
Also — talk to your contractor about maintenance. Be sure to clean the
filters regularly and do anything else they recommend to get the best
performance and longest life out of your equipment.
One last note…
If you are looking for more information, there are a LOT of amazing
resources where you can learn more about heat pumps. Here are a few we
like:
Have you given much thought to the inner workings of your stove? Me
neither. Your home probably came with one already installed, and so long
as you can turn it on, boil some water and simmer up a sauce, perhaps
that’s reason enough not to second guess it.
But if you’re cooking with gas, we’re here to let you know that,
culinary connoisseur or not, there are undeniable benefits to switching
to either electric or induction cooking. First and foremost, neither
relies directly on fossil fuels or emits harmful pollutants such as
nitrogen dioxide into your home, making the switch integral to any
effort to decarbonize your life — not to mention establish a comfortable
living environment. Second, both electric and induction are far more
energy efficient than gas.
“So on a gas range, about 70% of the heat that is generated from the gas
goes into your kitchen,” DR Richardson, co-founder of the home
electrification platform Elephant Energy, told me. “So it’s very
inefficient. You get hot. The handle gets hot. The kitchen gets hot.
Everything gets hot, except your food. And it takes a really long time.”
With an electric or induction stove, you can boil water faster and heat
your food up quicker, all while reducing your home’s carbon footprint.
Convinced yet? If you’re reading this guide, we sure hope you’re at
least intrigued! But even after you’ve decided to make the switch,
confusion and analysis paralysis can still loom. Are your needs better
suited to electric or induction? Will expensive electrical upgrades be
required? How will this impact your cooking? And where are all the stove
stores, anyway? So before you start browsing the aisles and showrooms,
let’s get up to speed on all things stoves… or is it ranges? You’ll see.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Friday Apaliski is the director
of communications at the Building Decarbonization Coalition, a nonprofit
composed of members across various sectors including environmental
justice groups, energy providers, and equipment manufacturers, seeking
alignment on a path towards the elimination of fossil fuels in
buildings.
DR Richardson is a co-founder of
Elephant Energy, a platform that aims to simplify residential
electrification for both homeowners and contractors. The company
provides personalized electrification roadmaps and handles the entire
installation process, including helping homeowners take advantage of all
the available local, state, and federal incentives.
OVERVIEW OF THE PROCESS
Familiarize yourself with your existing range or
cooktop — is it all gas, all electric, or a dual fuel range?
Learn about federal, state, and local
incentives for electric and induction stoves and cooktops, and from
here, determine whether electric or induction would best fit your needs
and budget.
If you’re moving from an all gas range to an electric or induction
range, find a plumber to cap your gas line and
an electrician to install an electrical circuit
for your new stove. If you already have a dual-fuel or electric range,
this won’t be necessary.
It’s common to use the terms stove and range
interchangeably to refer to the common boxy appliance we’re all
used to — one that combines a stovetop with burners
above and an oven below. Some consider range to be the
more accurate term for this two-in-one appliance, as a stove could
simply refer to the burners up top. In this guide, we’ll use the terms
stove and range to mean the complete appliance, and the terms
stovetop or cooktop to refer to either
just the top of a range/stove or a standalone device in which the
burners are integrated into a countertop with no oven.
One of the main distinctions you’ll hear about is electric
stoves vs. induction stoves. The terms can be
misleading, as both run on electricity, but heat up in very different
ways. Electric stoves send electricity through a
resistive coil that radiates heat out to your cookware, and thereby into
your food. Induction stoves, on the other hand, use
copper coils to create a magnetic field that produces an electric
current in the metal of the cookware itself, thus generating the heat
needed to boil water, saute veggies, or set an omelet.
Some homes have what’s known as a dual fuel range,
which combines a gas stovetop with an electric oven in one unit. If you
have a dual fuel range, you won’t need to make the same type of
electrical upgrades as those with ranges that run fully on gas.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
If I get an induction stove, will I have to get all new cookware?
It depends on the cookware you currently own, but you will almost
certainly need to replace some items. Induction stoves work with pots
and pans that are made of magnetic materials like cast iron and
stainless steel, but not those made of glass, aluminum, or copper. You
can check to see if your cookware is induction compatible by seeing if a
magnet will stick to the bottom, or if the induction logo is present on
the bottom.
I take my cooking seriously. Will I get the same results on
induction?
Everyone has their own affinities, but what we can tell you is that both
traditional electric stoves and newer induction stoves are more energy
efficient than gas stoves, and when it comes to temperature control,
induction stoves are the clear winner. They allow you to make near
instantaneous heat adjustments with great precision, while gas stoves
take longer to adjust and are less exact to begin with.
Cooking on a new stove will undoubtedly come with a learning curve, what
with all the new knobs and buttons and little sounds to get used to.
Many cooks are used to relying on the visual cue of the flame to let
them know how hot the stove is, but now you’ll be relying on a number on
the screen, instead. Especially if you go with induction stove, be
assured that you’ll be in good company
among
some top chefs.
Will I have to replace all my wiring to accommodate an induction
stove?
This is indeed a key question — more on this one below.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Figure out the type of range or cooktop you currently have
If you don’t know already, it’s not too hard to find out. When you turn
on the stovetop, is there fire? That, folks, is a gas stovetop. It will
have a gas supply line that looks like a threaded pipe that connects to
the back of the appliance. Gas stovetops are tricky to clean, not
particularly sleek, and
most
prevalent in California, New Jersey, Illinois, Washington DC,
New York, and Nevada.
If you have an electric range, the stovetop will be flat with metal
coils either exposed or concealed beneath a ceramic glass surface. The
coils will glow bright when they’re on. Electric ranges plug directly
into
240-volt
outlets (newer versions have four prongs, older ones have
three), with a
cord
that looks like a heavy vacuum plug or a small hose. Electric stovetops
are always paired with electric ovens — this is the setup that the
majority of Americans already have
according
to the Energy Information Administration.
“So if you have an electric range and you like it,
that’s wonderful. You should keep it. But generally, when we’re talking
about transitioning from a gas experience to something else, induction
is a much more analogous cooking experience,” Apaliski
said.
If you have an induction range, it was probably a very intentional
choice! According to a
2022
Consumer Reports survey, only about 3% of Americans have an
induction range or cooktop, so big ups if you’re a part of that energy
efficient minority. But if you just wandered into a new home and are
wondering if it’s got the goods, you might have to turn on the stove to
tell. Unlike an electric stovetop, you won’t see the cooking area glow
because the surface isn’t actually getting hot, only the cookware is.
Induction stoves also plug directly into 240-volt outlets.
But wait! There’s a chance you’re cooking with both gas and electric on
a dual-fuel range. The telltale sign will be if your range connects to
both a gas supply line as well as a 240-volt outlet (remember that
plug?). But if it’s difficult to determine what’s going on back there,
here’s what else to look out for: A
metal
device at the bottom and/or top of the oven’s interior that
glows bright when the oven is on indicates that it’s electric! Sometimes
these heating elements will be concealed, though. In that case, look for
telltale signs of gas: An open flame when the oven is on or a visible
pilot light when off. Newer gas stoves might not have either, but rather
use an electronic ignition system that you can hear fire up about 30-45
seconds after turning on the oven. If you’re still confused, there’s
always your user manual! (You kept that, right?)
Take note of your range’s current location.
If you’re going from an all-gas range to electric or induction and your
stove is located on a kitchen island, for example, this could make
installing the necessary electrical wiring more complex. It’s something
to ask potential contractors about when you get to that stage.
Figure out the size of your electric panel
Whenever you add a new electric appliance to your home, there’s the
possibility that you’ll need to upgrade your electric panel to
accommodate the new load. A new panel can cost thousands of dollars,
though, so you’ll want to know ahead of time if this might be necessary.
First, check the
size
of your current electric panel. You can find this information on
your main breaker or fuse, a label on the panel itself, or your electric
meter.
According
to Rewiring America, if your panel is less than 100 amps, an
upgrade could be necessary. If it’s anywhere from 100 to 150 amps, you
can likely electrify everything in your home — including your range —
without a panel upgrade, although some creative planning might be needed
(more on that
here
and below, in the section on finding contractors and installers). If
your panel is greater than 150 amps, it’s very likely that you can get
an electric range (as well as a bevy of other electrical appliances)
without upgrading.
Learn about incentives
As of now, federal incentives for electric and induction ranges,
cooktops, and ovens are not yet available. But
Home
Electrification and Appliance Rebates programs, established via
the Inflation Reduction Act, will roll out on a state-by-state basis
over the course of this year and next, with most programs expected to
come online in 2025. These rebates could give low- and moderate-income
houses up to $840 back on the cost of switching from gas to electric or
induction cooking.
While many details have yet to be released, it’s important to note that
qualifying customers won’t be required to pay the full price and
then apply for reimbursement — rather, the discount
will be applied upfront. Once the program becomes available, your state
will have a website with more information on how to apply. If you’re
cash-strapped today, it could be worth waiting until the federal
incentives roll out, as rebates will not be retroactively
available.
Many states and municipalities already have their own incentives for
electric appliance upgrades though. Unfortunately, there’s currently no
centralized database to look these up, so that means doing a little
homework. Check with your local utility, as well as your local and state
government websites and energy offices for home electrification
incentives. If you happen to live in California or Washington state, you
can
search
for local incentives here, via this initiative from the Building
Decarbonization Coalition.
The
NODE Collective is also working to compile data on all
residential incentive programs, so keep checking in, more information is
coming soon!
Compare electric vs. induction
Assuming you currently have a gas stove or a dual fuel range, this is
the first big choice you’ll have to make. For customers interested in
upgrading from electric to induction, let this also be your guide, as an
induction stove is indeed the higher-end choice. Here are the main
differences between the two:
Electric
Cost*: $700+ on average
Efficiency**: 74%, still far superior to a gas stove’s
40% efficiency rate
Temperature control: Less precise. This likely won’t
affect the average cook much, but for those seeking perfection,
induction definitely outperforms here.
Cookware: Will work with all of your existing cookware!
Induction
Cost*: $1,300+ on average
Efficiency**: 90% — Induction is far and away the
fastest way to cook
Temperature control: Excellent. Because induction
stoves provide direct heat, more precise and quick temperature
adjustments are possible. Some induction cooktops even allow you to set
an exact temperature.
Cookware: Works only with specific cookware made of
magnetic materials, such as stainless steel and cast iron, but not
glass, aluminum, or copper.
Heatmap Recommends: Spring for the induction stove if
you can. Not only will it provide a superior cooking experience, but
it’s safer too. Induction stoves only heat up magnetic
pots and pans, so if you touch the stove’s surface, you won’t get
burned. Most will also turn off automatically if there’s no cookware
detected.
“Induction is definitely the upgrade in basically every
sense, if you can afford it. Induction is a way better cooking
experience. It’s got way more fun heating and cooking control. It’s much
more energy efficient. It’s much faster,” said
Richardson.
If you’re curious about what it’s like to cook with an electric or
induction stove, you can buy a standalone single-pot cooktop for well
under $100; it will plug straight into a standard outlet. Additionally,
Apalinksi says that many libraries (yes, libraries!) and utilities allow
residents to borrow an induction cooktop and try it out for a few weeks,
completely free of charge.
Explore different brands and models
New electric and induction ranges and cooktops will only be eligible for
forthcoming federal incentives if they’re certified by Energy Star, a
joint program run by the Environmental Protection Agency and the DOE
that provides consumer information on energy efficient products,
practices, and standards. You can check out what
models
of ranges and cooktops qualify here. But to get a handle on the
actual look and feel of various options, you should try and find a
showroom or head to a large retail store.
“Go to your local big box retailer, whether it’s a Home
Depot or Best Buy or Lowe’s, they tend to have a bunch of models on the
floor. Their representatives can talk to you about all the different
options out there. But you have to research a little bit ahead of time,
otherwise they’re going to point you to the latest gas appliance,” said
Richardson.
If you learn that making the switch is going to entail particularly
cumbersome electrical upgrades, Apaliski said there are some innovative
companies such as
Channing
Street Copper andImpulse
Labs that make induction ranges and cooktops that plug into
standard outlets. They’re much pricier than your standard range, but if
you can afford it, one could be right if you’re looking for
plug-and-play simplicity and sleek design.
“So this is great, for example, if you are a renter, or
if you are someone who has limited capacity on your electrical panel, or
if you are someone who has one of these kitchen islands that is just
impossible to get a new electric cord to,” Apaliski
said.
If you buy your new range or cooktop from a big box retailer, they’ll
typically haul away your old appliance and deliver and install the new
one for you at either low or no cost. Don’t assume this is a part of the
package, though, and be sure to ask what is and isn’t included before
you make your purchase.
But if you’re moving from an all gas range or cooktop to an electric or
induction range or cooktop, the complicated part isn’t the installation
process, it’s everything that must come before. That includes capping
and sealing the gas line for your old stove (this is a job for a
plumber) and installing the requisite electric wiring to power your new
stove (this is a job for an electrician).
As noted, making the switch could also mean a costly electric panel
upgrade. You should ask potential electricians about this right away, as
well as about creative solutions that would let you work with your
existing panel. If you’re running out of space, you could buy a circuit
sharing device like a smart splitter or a circuit pauser, which would
allow multiple loads, such as an EV charger and your stove, to share a
circuit, or ensure that specific appliances are shut off when you’re
approaching your panel’s limit. Richardson recommends getting opinions
from a couple different electricians, seconding the idea that if your
panel is 100 amps or more, an upgrade is likely not necessary.
Above all, you should make sure that the gas line and electric work is
taken care of before the stove installer comes to your
home. Richardson said that occasionally, retailers will provide plumbing
and electrical services as an add-on option, so it never hurts to ask.
But most likely you’ll be sourcing contractors and compiling quotes on
your own. If you don’t already have a go to person for the job, ask
friends, family, and neighbors for references. Google and Yelp reviews
are always there too.
Note
New electric ranges do not usually come with a power cord. You must
purchase your own power cord prior to installation.
Things to ask potential plumbers and electricians:
Are you licensed and insured for this type of work?
Asking for proof is always a good idea!
How long will this work take, and when would you be able to
start? You’ll likely want to align the scheduling of the gas
work, the electrical work, and the installation of your new appliance,
so that you don’t go too long without a working stove! While these
things can’t happen simultaneously, scheduling them close together makes
sense.
What is your expected work schedule, and can I (or should I)
stay in my home during the process? You’ll want to know when
the contractors plan to arrive, and if the work is going to cause any
disruptions, such as a power shut off. You should also ask if they
recommend you stick around, in case any questions arise.
What type of warranty do you offer for your work? This
ensures that if any of the work is performed incorrectly, it will be
fixed free of charge. Your range or cooktop will have its own separate
warranty, which you should also be aware of.
Will you work with subcontractors? Clarify who is your
point of contact for the project, and make sure the contractor’s
insurance covers subcontractors as well.
Will this work require a permit? If so, who will be in charge of
securing that? This will depend on where you live and the scope
of the work. Ensuring that your contractor understands the nuances of
local regulations and permitting processes is key.
What is your payment schedule? You may be expected to
pay a plumber or electrician an upfront deposit, depending on the
complexity of the project.
Will you conduct a site visit in order to get a more accurate
cost and scope of work estimate? This can help everyone get on
the same page about how much work the job will entail, to ensure that
you get an accurate quote. Ask whether the site visit will be free or if
there’s a consultation fee.
What technologies would allow me to keep my existing electric
panel? As mentioned, there are numerous ways to avoid panel
upgrades. If your current panel can’t easily handle the new load,
discuss alternate options with your electrician.
WHAT’S NEXT?
Once you get time on the calendar with a trustworthy, knowledgeable and
fair-priced plumber and electrician, it’s time to schedule the
installation of your new range or cooktop. And after
that it’s time to metaphorically fire up those
resistive coils or electromagnetic fields and make yourself an
electrified meal for the ages.
Have you given much thought to the inner workings of your stove? Me
neither. Your home probably came with one already installed, and so long
as you can turn it on, boil some water and simmer up a sauce, perhaps
that’s reason enough not to second guess it.
But if you’re cooking with gas, we’re here to let you know that,
culinary connoisseur or not, there are undeniable benefits to switching
to either electric or induction cooking. First and foremost, neither
relies directly on fossil fuels or emits harmful pollutants such as
nitrogen dioxide into your home, making the switch integral to any
effort to decarbonize your life — not to mention establish a comfortable
living environment. Second, both electric and induction are far more
energy efficient than gas.
“So on a gas range, about 70% of the heat that is generated from the gas
goes into your kitchen,” DR Richardson, co-founder of the home
electrification platform Elephant Energy, told me. “So it’s very
inefficient. You get hot. The handle gets hot. The kitchen gets hot.
Everything gets hot, except your food. And it takes a really long time.”
With an electric or induction stove, you can boil water faster and heat
your food up quicker, all while reducing your home’s carbon footprint.
Convinced yet? If you’re reading this guide, we sure hope you’re at
least intrigued! But even after you’ve decided to make the switch,
confusion and analysis paralysis can still loom. Are your needs better
suited to electric or induction? Will expensive electrical upgrades be
required? How will this impact your cooking? And where are all the stove
stores, anyway? So before you start browsing the aisles and showrooms,
let’s get up to speed on all things stoves… or is it ranges? You’ll see.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Friday Apaliski is the director
of communications at the Building Decarbonization Coalition, a nonprofit
composed of members across various sectors including environmental
justice groups, energy providers, and equipment manufacturers, seeking
alignment on a path towards the elimination of fossil fuels in
buildings.
DR Richardson is a co-founder of
Elephant Energy, a platform that aims to simplify residential
electrification for both homeowners and contractors. The company
provides personalized electrification roadmaps and handles the entire
installation process, including helping homeowners take advantage of all
the available local, state, and federal incentives.
OVERVIEW OF THE PROCESS
Familiarize yourself with your existing range or
cooktop — is it all gas, all electric, or a dual fuel range?
Learn about federal, state, and local
incentives for electric and induction stoves and cooktops, and from
here, determine whether electric or induction would best fit your needs
and budget.
If you’re moving from an all gas range to an electric or induction
range, find a plumber to cap your gas line and
an electrician to install an electrical circuit
for your new stove. If you already have a dual-fuel or electric range,
this won’t be necessary.
It’s common to use the terms stove and range
interchangeably to refer to the common boxy appliance we’re all
used to — one that combines a stovetop with burners
above and an oven below. Some consider range to be the
more accurate term for this two-in-one appliance, as a stove could
simply refer to the burners up top. In this guide, we’ll use the terms
stove and range to mean the complete appliance, and the terms
stovetop or cooktop to refer to either
just the top of a range/stove or a standalone device in which the
burners are integrated into a countertop with no oven.
One of the main distinctions you’ll hear about is electric
stoves vs. induction stoves. The terms can be
misleading, as both run on electricity, but heat up in very different
ways. Electric stoves send electricity through a
resistive coil that radiates heat out to your cookware, and thereby into
your food. Induction stoves, on the other hand, use
copper coils to create a magnetic field that produces an electric
current in the metal of the cookware itself, thus generating the heat
needed to boil water, saute veggies, or set an omelet.
Some homes have what’s known as a dual fuel range,
which combines a gas stovetop with an electric oven in one unit. If you
have a dual fuel range, you won’t need to make the same type of
electrical upgrades as those with ranges that run fully on gas.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
If I get an induction stove, will I have to get all new cookware?
It depends on the cookware you currently own, but you will almost
certainly need to replace some items. Induction stoves work with pots
and pans that are made of magnetic materials like cast iron and
stainless steel, but not those made of glass, aluminum, or copper. You
can check to see if your cookware is induction compatible by seeing if a
magnet will stick to the bottom, or if the induction logo is present on
the bottom.
I take my cooking seriously. Will I get the same results on
induction?
Everyone has their own affinities, but what we can tell you is that both
traditional electric stoves and newer induction stoves are more energy
efficient than gas stoves, and when it comes to temperature control,
induction stoves are the clear winner. They allow you to make near
instantaneous heat adjustments with great precision, while gas stoves
take longer to adjust and are less exact to begin with.
Cooking on a new stove will undoubtedly come with a learning curve, what
with all the new knobs and buttons and little sounds to get used to.
Many cooks are used to relying on the visual cue of the flame to let
them know how hot the stove is, but now you’ll be relying on a number on
the screen, instead. Especially if you go with induction stove, be
assured that you’ll be in good company
among
some top chefs.
Will I have to replace all my wiring to accommodate an induction
stove?
This is indeed a key question — more on this one below.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Figure out the type of range or cooktop you currently have
If you don’t know already, it’s not too hard to find out. When you turn
on the stovetop, is there fire? That, folks, is a gas stovetop. It will
have a gas supply line that looks like a threaded pipe that connects to
the back of the appliance. Gas stovetops are tricky to clean, not
particularly sleek, and
most
prevalent in California, New Jersey, Illinois, Washington DC,
New York, and Nevada.
If you have an electric range, the stovetop will be flat with metal
coils either exposed or concealed beneath a ceramic glass surface. The
coils will glow bright when they’re on. Electric ranges plug directly
into
240-volt
outlets (newer versions have four prongs, older ones have
three), with a
cord
that looks like a heavy vacuum plug or a small hose. Electric stovetops
are always paired with electric ovens — this is the setup that the
majority of Americans already have
according
to the Energy Information Administration.
“So if you have an electric range and you like it,
that’s wonderful. You should keep it. But generally, when we’re talking
about transitioning from a gas experience to something else, induction
is a much more analogous cooking experience,” Apaliski
said.
If you have an induction range, it was probably a very intentional
choice! According to a
2022
Consumer Reports survey, only about 3% of Americans have an
induction range or cooktop, so big ups if you’re a part of that energy
efficient minority. But if you just wandered into a new home and are
wondering if it’s got the goods, you might have to turn on the stove to
tell. Unlike an electric stovetop, you won’t see the cooking area glow
because the surface isn’t actually getting hot, only the cookware is.
Induction stoves also plug directly into 240-volt outlets.
But wait! There’s a chance you’re cooking with both gas and electric on
a dual-fuel range. The telltale sign will be if your range connects to
both a gas supply line as well as a 240-volt outlet (remember that
plug?). But if it’s difficult to determine what’s going on back there,
here’s what else to look out for: A
metal
device at the bottom and/or top of the oven’s interior that
glows bright when the oven is on indicates that it’s electric! Sometimes
these heating elements will be concealed, though. In that case, look for
telltale signs of gas: An open flame when the oven is on or a visible
pilot light when off. Newer gas stoves might not have either, but rather
use an electronic ignition system that you can hear fire up about 30-45
seconds after turning on the oven. If you’re still confused, there’s
always your user manual! (You kept that, right?)
Take note of your range’s current location.
If you’re going from an all-gas range to electric or induction and your
stove is located on a kitchen island, for example, this could make
installing the necessary electrical wiring more complex. It’s something
to ask potential contractors about when you get to that stage.
Figure out the size of your electric panel
Whenever you add a new electric appliance to your home, there’s the
possibility that you’ll need to upgrade your electric panel to
accommodate the new load. A new panel can cost thousands of dollars,
though, so you’ll want to know ahead of time if this might be necessary.
First, check the
size
of your current electric panel. You can find this information on
your main breaker or fuse, a label on the panel itself, or your electric
meter.
According
to Rewiring America, if your panel is less than 100 amps, an
upgrade could be necessary. If it’s anywhere from 100 to 150 amps, you
can likely electrify everything in your home — including your range —
without a panel upgrade, although some creative planning might be needed
(more on that
here
and below, in the section on finding contractors and installers). If
your panel is greater than 150 amps, it’s very likely that you can get
an electric range (as well as a bevy of other electrical appliances)
without upgrading.
Learn about incentives
As of now, federal incentives for electric and induction ranges,
cooktops, and ovens are not yet available. But
Home
Electrification and Appliance Rebates programs, established via
the Inflation Reduction Act, will roll out on a state-by-state basis
over the course of this year and next, with most programs expected to
come online in 2025. These rebates could give low- and moderate-income
houses up to $840 back on the cost of switching from gas to electric or
induction cooking.
While many details have yet to be released, it’s important to note that
qualifying customers won’t be required to pay the full price and
then apply for reimbursement — rather, the discount
will be applied upfront. Once the program becomes available, your state
will have a website with more information on how to apply. If you’re
cash-strapped today, it could be worth waiting until the federal
incentives roll out, as rebates will not be retroactively
available.
Many states and municipalities already have their own incentives for
electric appliance upgrades though. Unfortunately, there’s currently no
centralized database to look these up, so that means doing a little
homework. Check with your local utility, as well as your local and state
government websites and energy offices for home electrification
incentives. If you happen to live in California or Washington state, you
can
search
for local incentives here, via this initiative from the Building
Decarbonization Coalition.
The
NODE Collective is also working to compile data on all
residential incentive programs, so keep checking in, more information is
coming soon!
Compare electric vs. induction
Assuming you currently have a gas stove or a dual fuel range, this is
the first big choice you’ll have to make. For customers interested in
upgrading from electric to induction, let this also be your guide, as an
induction stove is indeed the higher-end choice. Here are the main
differences between the two:
Electric
Cost*: $700+ on average
Efficiency**: 74%, still far superior to a gas stove’s
40% efficiency rate
Temperature control: Less precise. This likely won’t
affect the average cook much, but for those seeking perfection,
induction definitely outperforms here.
Cookware: Will work with all of your existing cookware!
Induction
Cost*: $1,300+ on average
Efficiency**: 90% — Induction is far and away the
fastest way to cook
Temperature control: Excellent. Because induction
stoves provide direct heat, more precise and quick temperature
adjustments are possible. Some induction cooktops even allow you to set
an exact temperature.
Cookware: Works only with specific cookware made of
magnetic materials, such as stainless steel and cast iron, but not
glass, aluminum, or copper.
Heatmap Recommends: Spring for the induction stove if
you can. Not only will it provide a superior cooking experience, but
it’s safer too. Induction stoves only heat up magnetic
pots and pans, so if you touch the stove’s surface, you won’t get
burned. Most will also turn off automatically if there’s no cookware
detected.
“Induction is definitely the upgrade in basically every
sense, if you can afford it. Induction is a way better cooking
experience. It’s got way more fun heating and cooking control. It’s much
more energy efficient. It’s much faster,” said
Richardson.
If you’re curious about what it’s like to cook with an electric or
induction stove, you can buy a standalone single-pot cooktop for well
under $100; it will plug straight into a standard outlet. Additionally,
Apalinksi says that many libraries (yes, libraries!) and utilities allow
residents to borrow an induction cooktop and try it out for a few weeks,
completely free of charge.
Explore different brands and models
New electric and induction ranges and cooktops will only be eligible for
forthcoming federal incentives if they’re certified by Energy Star, a
joint program run by the Environmental Protection Agency and the DOE
that provides consumer information on energy efficient products,
practices, and standards. You can check out what
models
of ranges and cooktops qualify here. But to get a handle on the
actual look and feel of various options, you should try and find a
showroom or head to a large retail store.
“Go to your local big box retailer, whether it’s a Home
Depot or Best Buy or Lowe’s, they tend to have a bunch of models on the
floor. Their representatives can talk to you about all the different
options out there. But you have to research a little bit ahead of time,
otherwise they’re going to point you to the latest gas appliance,” said
Richardson.
If you learn that making the switch is going to entail particularly
cumbersome electrical upgrades, Apaliski said there are some innovative
companies such as
Channing
Street Copper andImpulse
Labs that make induction ranges and cooktops that plug into
standard outlets. They’re much pricier than your standard range, but if
you can afford it, one could be right if you’re looking for
plug-and-play simplicity and sleek design.
“So this is great, for example, if you are a renter, or
if you are someone who has limited capacity on your electrical panel, or
if you are someone who has one of these kitchen islands that is just
impossible to get a new electric cord to,” Apaliski
said.
If you buy your new range or cooktop from a big box retailer, they’ll
typically haul away your old appliance and deliver and install the new
one for you at either low or no cost. Don’t assume this is a part of the
package, though, and be sure to ask what is and isn’t included before
you make your purchase.
But if you’re moving from an all gas range or cooktop to an electric or
induction range or cooktop, the complicated part isn’t the installation
process, it’s everything that must come before. That includes capping
and sealing the gas line for your old stove (this is a job for a
plumber) and installing the requisite electric wiring to power your new
stove (this is a job for an electrician).
As noted, making the switch could also mean a costly electric panel
upgrade. You should ask potential electricians about this right away, as
well as about creative solutions that would let you work with your
existing panel. If you’re running out of space, you could buy a circuit
sharing device like a smart splitter or a circuit pauser, which would
allow multiple loads, such as an EV charger and your stove, to share a
circuit, or ensure that specific appliances are shut off when you’re
approaching your panel’s limit. Richardson recommends getting opinions
from a couple different electricians, seconding the idea that if your
panel is 100 amps or more, an upgrade is likely not necessary.
Above all, you should make sure that the gas line and electric work is
taken care of before the stove installer comes to your
home. Richardson said that occasionally, retailers will provide plumbing
and electrical services as an add-on option, so it never hurts to ask.
But most likely you’ll be sourcing contractors and compiling quotes on
your own. If you don’t already have a go to person for the job, ask
friends, family, and neighbors for references. Google and Yelp reviews
are always there too.
Note
New electric ranges do not usually come with a power cord. You must
purchase your own power cord prior to installation.
Things to ask potential plumbers and electricians:
Are you licensed and insured for this type of work?
Asking for proof is always a good idea!
How long will this work take, and when would you be able to
start? You’ll likely want to align the scheduling of the gas
work, the electrical work, and the installation of your new appliance,
so that you don’t go too long without a working stove! While these
things can’t happen simultaneously, scheduling them close together makes
sense.
What is your expected work schedule, and can I (or should I)
stay in my home during the process? You’ll want to know when
the contractors plan to arrive, and if the work is going to cause any
disruptions, such as a power shut off. You should also ask if they
recommend you stick around, in case any questions arise.
What type of warranty do you offer for your work? This
ensures that if any of the work is performed incorrectly, it will be
fixed free of charge. Your range or cooktop will have its own separate
warranty, which you should also be aware of.
Will you work with subcontractors? Clarify who is your
point of contact for the project, and make sure the contractor’s
insurance covers subcontractors as well.
Will this work require a permit? If so, who will be in charge of
securing that? This will depend on where you live and the scope
of the work. Ensuring that your contractor understands the nuances of
local regulations and permitting processes is key.
What is your payment schedule? You may be expected to
pay a plumber or electrician an upfront deposit, depending on the
complexity of the project.
Will you conduct a site visit in order to get a more accurate
cost and scope of work estimate? This can help everyone get on
the same page about how much work the job will entail, to ensure that
you get an accurate quote. Ask whether the site visit will be free or if
there’s a consultation fee.
What technologies would allow me to keep my existing electric
panel? As mentioned, there are numerous ways to avoid panel
upgrades. If your current panel can’t easily handle the new load,
discuss alternate options with your electrician.
WHAT’S NEXT?
Once you get time on the calendar with a trustworthy, knowledgeable and
fair-priced plumber and electrician, it’s time to schedule the
installation of your new range or cooktop. And after
that it’s time to metaphorically fire up those
resistive coils or electromagnetic fields and make yourself an
electrified meal for the ages.
The humble water heater, like your fridge or septic tank, is the type of
home technology that you only notice if and when it breaks. For most
homeowners, that’s every 13 years. But if you’re on a mission to
decarbonize your life, you might want to rethink your current set-up,
and perhaps consider a makeover. Per the Department of Energy, water
heating accounts for roughly 18% of the average household’s energy use,
making it the second largest energy expense in any home.
Back in April, the DOE released new residential water heater standards
that it says will save American households approximately $7.6 billion
per year on their energy bills “while significantly cutting energy waste
and harmful carbon pollution.” The standards will also, in effect, phase
out electric resistance water heaters, which currently account for half
the U.S. market, in favor of more energy-efficient heat pump water
heaters by 2029. If any of that confuses you, read on. We’re breaking
down everything you need to know about this oft-forgotten,
basement-dwelling home technology, from the taxonomy of water heater
types to tax credit and rebate tips to product recommendations.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Andy Meyer is a senior program manager at
Efficiency Maine, an independent agency that implements energy
efficiency programs in the state. His team is responsible for providing
resources on heat pump water heaters to Maine residents, who buy one out
of every 10 purchased in the U.S.
Ben Foster is vice president of operations at
Barnett Plumbing & Water Heaters, a leading heat pump water heater
contractor in California. He’s also developed loaner water heater
programs supported by TECH Clean California, and notes that most
contractors don’t have access to loaner programs:
Joseph Wachunas is a senior project manager at the
New Buildings Institute, a nonprofit working to reduce emissions and
deliver climate solutions through the built environment. At NBI, he
heads up the Advanced Water Heating Initiative, which aims to
decarbonize water heating through heat pump water heaters.
The first step to switching your water heater is understanding
the Uniform Energy Factor. This is the rating that
determines a water heater’s efficiency, i.e. how much energy it uses to
heat water versus how much it loses in the process. While there is no
“ideal” UEF, a good rule of thumb is the higher the UEF, the more
efficient the water heater.
Most conventional water heaters are spectacularly
inefficient. They work byheating a storage tank of
water either by electric resistance (i.e. the same technology that
powers a toaster) or natural gas. The UEF on conventional water heaters
is generally around 0.6.
Tankless water heaters heat water directly, without a
storage tank. The power source — either an electric element or gas
burner — warms cold water as it travels through a heat exchanger in the
unit. Like conventional water heaters, tankless water heaters can be
powered by either electric resistance or gas, and only heat water when
the user needs it. The UEF on tankless water heaters is typically around
0.8.
Heat pump water heaters and hybrid water
heaters, meanwhile,work by gathering heat
from the surrounding air — the classic comparison is to an air
conditioner, but in reverse. Most heat pump water heaters also have a
back-up electric-resistance mechanism that kicks in during periods of
high demand (thus, hybrid). The UEF on heat pump water heaters is
between 3 and 4, a gobsmacking five times more efficient than
conventional and tankless water heaters, which is instead of quickly
creating heat, they slowly move it around. Heat pump water heaters are
by far the most energy efficient water heaters on the
market.
“Heat pump water heaters are simple to install — any
plumber or handy person can do it — but plumbers may not be familiar
with them. So if you talk with a plumber who has concerns, consider
calling another plumber,” Meyer told me. “Again, Mainers have installed
over 70,000 in the last 12 years. They are no longer new.”
Solar water heaters use the sun’s energy to heat up
water in a storage tank, and are either active or passive — active solar
water heaters use circulating pumps, while passive heaters allow natural
convection to move water from the collectors to the storage tank as it
heats up. Solar water heaters have a different efficiency standard, the
solar energy factor, which is the energy delivered by the system divided
by the electrical or gas energy put into the system. The SEF of most
solar water heaters is somewhere from 2 to 3, and these water heaters
generally only work in areas where temperatures rarely fall below
freezing.
The last type of water heater to keep in mind is indirect water
heaters or tankless coil water heaters, which
use a home’s space heating system to heat water; indirect water heaters
then store that in a tank, whereas tankless coil water heaters work on
demand. These water heaters are generally only efficient during cold
months or in cold climates, when houses’ heating systems are on
regularly — and even then, tankless coil water heaters are notoriously
inefficient.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
How does a heat pump water heater work?
A heat pump water heater is made up of a compressor, storage tank,
condenser, evaporator coil, fan, backup heating elements, and
refrigerant. The compressor, located in the upper compartment of the
water heater, uses refrigerant to heat the water in the storage tank
(via the condenser, which acts as a heat exchanger). The evaporator coil
and fan work to change refrigerant from liquid back to gas after the
water has been heated. The backup electric heating elements kick in only
in periods of high demand to ensure consistent hot water supply.
It gets cold where I live. Can I still get a heat pump water heater?
A common misconception about heat pumps in general is that they don’t
work in colder climates. This is not at all the case — half of electric
water heaters in Maine, for instance, are now heat pumps. As long as
they are installed indoors and in an area where pipes won’t freeze
(typically, a basement), heat pump water heaters work throughout the
year in all climates, according to Meyer and Wachunas. The rule of
thumb, per the DOE, is to install your heat pump water heater in
locations that remain in the 40 degree to 90 degree Fahrenheit range
year-round.
How much can I save with a heat pump water heater?
Per the DOE, replacing your standard electric water heater with a heat
pump water heater can save you
up to 10%
on your electricity bill, reducing your water heating energy consumption
and costs by up to 70%.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
The number one mistake homeowners make when it comes
to their water heaters is waiting until they’re broken to replace them.
This severely limits your options for new water heaters — as Foster
notes, no one “wants to go days without hot water, let alone weeks,” and
it can take weeks or even months to fit your home for a heat pump water
heater. (We’ll get into why a bit later.)
“A lot of contractors, if you want a heat pump and you
have a leaking water heater that needs to be replaced today, they’re
just going to convince you to go with gas,” Foster
said.
Some contractors have loaner water heater programs, so you can
temporarily use a gas heater in an emergency situation, but these
programs are few and far between. If you’ve had your water heater for 10
years or more — even if it’s working just fine — it might be time to
think about replacing it. If you do, you’ll need to consider a few
things about your home and lifestyle, especially if you’re considering a
heat pump water heater:
The size and layout of your house
Heat pump water heaters require a significant amount of space. Per
Pacific Northwest National Laboratory, heat pump water heaters can
require more than 6 feet of height clearance to account for their air
filters, as well as a 3-foot diameter space to provide clearance for the
drain pan and other connections. Additionally, the heat pump water
heater should be positioned so the exhaust outlet is at least 8 inches
away from a wall, door, or ceiling.
Also, since heat pump water heaters work by drawing heat from the
surrounding air, they require 700 cubic feet of unenclosed space
surrounding the water heater location. While it is possible to install a
heat pump water heater in a location with insufficient air volume (for
instance, by installing the water heater with a door equipped with top
and bottom grills), this would require extra work from your contractor.
Taking all these measurements into account, this basically means that a
heat pump water heater requires a 10-foot by 9-foot room with an
8-foot-tall ceiling.
Note
Heat pump water heaters are not silent! Their compressors produce sounds
similar to a dishwasher or dehumidifier when operating. Be mindful of
this when choosing where to install your water heater.
Maintenance requirements of a heat pump water heater
Heat pump water heaters also require monthly and yearly service, Meyer
told me. You should change the water filter every two to six months, and
clear the condensate lines to ensure your unit doesn’t get clogged with
mold or bacteria. Additionally, if your unit is a hybrid, you’ll have to
keep an eye on its anode rod, which can become corroded over time and
lead to heating issues. You’ll have to flush your heat pump water heater
annually to avoid corrosion.
Your household’s size and water needs
If you’re going to DIY it, understanding your household’s water needs is
key to sizing and installing a new heat pump water heater. First,
determine your house’s peak hour demand (the maximum amount of water
your house uses in one hour per day) using
this
worksheet from the DOE. You can then use that number (measured
in gallons) to determine what size heat water heater to buy — look at
the heater’s first hour rating, a.k.a. the amount of hot water the
heater can supply per hour, starting with a tank full of hot water.
You’ll want your heater’s first hour rating to be equal to (or ideally,
higher than) your peak hour demand.
Though you should use the worksheet to determine your unique peak hour
demand, a general rule is that households of one to two people should
use a 50-gallon water heater, while households of three or more people
should use a 65- to 80-gallon tank. The average family uses 50 gallons
of hot water per day, Wachunas explained. “So even if you have lots of
showers in the morning, your heat pump in two to four hours will heat
that water back up and you have plenty of extra supply.”
If you’re between two sizes of heat pump water heaters, always upsize,
Foster said. This ensures that the heat pump is the primary source of
heat, as opposed to the much less efficient backup electric mechanisms.
In other words, it’s far more efficient (and less expensive!) for a
larger heat pump water heater to heat a few extra gallons of water using
the heat pump than it is for a smaller heat pump water heater to have to
use its electric elements to keep up with excess demand.
Your existing wiring
Since many heat pump water heaters have certain voltage requirements,
you may have to upgrade your electrical panel for 240-volt hardwired
service. The cost and time involved in having your service upgraded can
vary and depends on whether the power lines coming into your house are
above ground. If they’re underground, Foster explained, a contractor
will have to excavate and run new cables, which can take over a year.
The best way to determine if you’ll need to upgrade your service is to
have a trusted contractor do an assessment on your home. (This is also
why it’s essential to plan in advance.)
Note
You can circumvent those upfront electrical costs by using new,
lower voltage heat pump water heaters, which first hit the
market in July 2022. Wachunas recommends using the
Watt
Diet calculator to determine how many amps of electricity your home
actually needs. He was able to fully electrify his family’s duplex using
a 120-volt model, which plugs into a standard outlet. While these
120-volt heaters are not cheaper than the higher voltage models, their
easy installation requirements can help you avoid electrical upgrade
costs.
It’s important to note, however, that the electric resistance
backup mechanism on these units is much smaller than standard
hybrid water heaters. That means they have a more limited hot water
output compared to the 240-volt models, which can lead to wait times
during periods of high demand. It can also take longer to heat water to
the desired temperature. Generally, the 120-volt models work best for
smaller households with moderate hot water needs.
Location, location, location
Basements are always the best places for heat pump water heaters,
regardless of climate. Other common locations for installation include
garages, interior rooms, and rooms outside the thermal envelope, like
attached sheds and utility rooms. The garage does not have to be
insulated if outdoor temperatures are usually above 50°F, but if
temperatures dip below freezing and the garage is uninsulated, it’d be
best to consider another location. Interior rooms, like laundry or IT
rooms, are a great choice because a heat pump water heater can utilize
any waste heat generated by the equipment in the room. Finally, rooms
outside the thermal envelope, like attached sheds, can be even more
efficient than interior spaces in hot or warm climates because of the
excess hot air.
Feeling ready to go shopping? Here’s everything you need to know about
the buying and installation process.
There are plenty of tax credits and rebates to take advantage
of. The big one to note is the 30% tax credit from the federal
government (thank you, Inflation Reduction Act!) for heat pump water
heaters, which covers both the unit and installation, up to $2,000. You
can read up on that program
here.
You can also use the Database of State Incentives for Renewables &
Efficiency to research utility rebates
specific to your
region. Also be sure to check out Energy Star’s
rebate
finder and Rewiring America’s
tax
credit guide. (Rewiring America, as it happens, is also a
sponsor of Decarbonize Your Life.) A heat pump water heater typically
costs about $1,000 more than other types of electric water heaters
before rebates and tax credits, but once you factor those in, you may
find you have more budget to work with than you thought. It’ll also save
you about $500 per year on your utility bills, according to Meyer, so
“payback is quick.”
Decide whether you want to hire a contractor or install the new
heater yourself. Though a DIY water heater install sounds
intimidating, it’s “surprisingly accessible for folks if you’re
semi-handy,” Wachunas told me. Efficiency Maine estimates that a third
of its customers install heat pump water heaters themselves. Unlike HVAC
heat pumps, heat pump water heaters are closed systems, so they come
sealed in one packed unit that the customer simply has to install as
they would any other electric water heater. (This also means that if and
when the thing breaks — most heat pump water heaters have 10-year
warranties — the whole unit has to be replaced, not just a part.)
If you’re DIY-ing it, you can buy a heat pump water heater
either online or at a local hardware or home improvement store.
It’s important to keep in mind, however, that these units are quite
heavy and cannot be taken apart. Depending on capacity, they can be over
300 pounds — so prepare accordingly to transport the unit to your house.
As for installing, first, you’ll have to remove your existing water
heater (this will involve draining the tank, removing supply lines, and
disconnecting the power). Next, you’ll clean up your workspace and
prepare your new plumbing material. Then you’ll position your new water
heater, connect your supply lines to the new heater, fill the tank with
cold water, and connect the heater to the electrical supply according to
the manufacturer’s instructions. Voilà! Your heat pump
water heater is ready for use. Check out
this
guide from Northwest Energy Efficiency Alliance. PNNL also has a
great
heat
pump water heater installation tool that can walk you through
the selection and installation process.
If DIY isn’t your bag, it’s essential to find the right
contractor, as not all water heater contractors are familiar with heat
pump water heater models. This often results in plumbers
undersizing their recommendations, “not taking into account the fact
that they take longer to regenerate hot water,” Foster warned. The best
way to find a quality contractor is to use a third party service that
has already done the work of vetting plumbers, according to Foster, such
as The Switch Is
On, or state-specific organizations like Efficiency Maine or
TECH Clean
California. A properly-informed contractor will also be able to
access special rebates that aren’t available to consumers, according to
Foster.
You might want to consider doing a whole-home assessment while
you’re at it. If you’re already planning on making the switch
from a gas stove to an induction stove in addition to replacing your
water heater, for instance, you can consolidate your home renovation
plans with help from organizations like
Quit
Carbon.
This plug-in model caused
quite
a stir when it came out two years ago, and for good reason. Its
low voltage allows it to be plugged into a standard outlet, making it a
great fit for smaller homes with fewer residents, or anyone in need of a
quick fix. (This is also a relatively foolproof choice for DIYers
because of the quick and easy installation process.) For those wanting a
model with a bit more flexibility but still an easy install, there’s the
A.O.
Smith Signature 900Plug-in Hybrid, which is more
expensive but has the added benefit of back-up electric resistance
elements that help with higher hot water demand. Alternatively, you can
go for the
120-Volt
Rheem ProTerra Plug-in Water Heater with HydroBoost, which
utilizes a mixing valve for maximum hot water output.
If app functionality is especially important to you, Rheem’s ProTerra
line might be particularly appealing. The EcoNet app allows users to
monitor the hot water heater from their phone, with status updates on
potential leaks as well as compressor health, hot water availability and
the unit’s set water temperature.
Another solid choice for larger families, for roughly the same price, is
A.O.
Smith’s Signature 900 80-Gal.For further
durability, consider
Bradford
White’s Aerotherm Series water heaters, which can only be
purchased through a qualified contractor, but are frequently praised for
their resilience and anti-microbial technology.
Split-system heat pump water heaters are the answer for truly huge
houses, where the heat pump itself is outside while the storage tank
remains inside. “You can chain together as many heat pump units as you
want with as many storage tanks as you want,” Foster said. “So you can
create as big a system as you want.” While split-system heat pump water
heaters are much less widely-available in the U.S. than they are in Asia
and Europe, you can purchase this one online. SANCO is also shipping a
new fifth generation unit soon, Quit Carbon advises, which may prove
more cost-effective and will qualify for more rebates in California.
The quietest HPWH on the market, at 45 decibels, is made by A.O. Smith,
according to Foster. It’s available in 50, 65, and 80 gallon sizes, so
it can accommodate a variety of household types. Another quiet option is
LG’s
Inverter Heat Pump Water Heater, though LG is much
newer to the heat pump water heater game than Rheem and A.O. Smith, so
it may be more difficult to find qualified contractors.
WHAT’S NEXT?
A GIANT ASTERISK
Three more expert contractors I spoke with — Nate Adams, a longtime HVAC
insulation and sealing contractor in West Virginia who specializes in
electrification retrofits for homeowners; John Semmelhack, an HVAC
consultant and the owner of Think Little, a building science consulting
firm specializing in mechanical system design for passive house and
net-zero energy homes; and Tim Portman, the owner of Portman Mechanical,
specializing in electrification, heating and cooling, and home
performance — had concerns about heat pump water heater installations.
Adams said heaters he’s installed have had a 50% failure rate, while
Portman and Semmelhack cite a 60% failure rate. These issues have
seemingly cropped up after 2018 and are almost entirely occurring with
A.O. Smith and Rheem’s fifth generation of water heater models; older
generations performed and continue to perform much better. “All my
installs from 2014-2018 are still running to my knowledge,” says Adams.
“Which is a big part of my frustration— we had this figured out
already.”
The specific causes of these failures vary, spanning from tanks bursting
to heat pumps losing charge, according to Adams. Semmelhack and Portman,
meanwhile, pointed mainly to refrigerant leaks and compressor issues.
(A.O. Smith and Rheem did not respond to requests for comment.) “All of
the failures are happening inside the first year of operation,” noted
Semmelhack. “So it’s happening pretty quick, which makes us think that
it’s a factory problem and not an environmental problem inside the
household.”
For those who don’t mind waiting, keep an eye on Cala, a promising water
heater startup.
Semmelhack and Portman are hopeful about Cala’s new
heat pump water heaters, which use an AI-powered control system to
forecast hot water demand and heat the water in the tank accordingly
with a heat pump. They’re aiming to start shipping those units in 2025,
and you can preorder and learn more
here.
The humble water heater, like your fridge or septic tank, is the type of
home technology that you only notice if and when it breaks. For most
homeowners, that’s every 13 years. But if you’re on a mission to
decarbonize your life, you might want to rethink your current set-up,
and perhaps consider a makeover. Per the Department of Energy, water
heating accounts for roughly 18% of the average household’s energy use,
making it the second largest energy expense in any home.
Back in April, the DOE released new residential water heater standards
that it says will save American households approximately $7.6 billion
per year on their energy bills “while significantly cutting energy waste
and harmful carbon pollution.” The standards will also, in effect, phase
out electric resistance water heaters, which currently account for half
the U.S. market, in favor of more energy-efficient heat pump water
heaters by 2029. If any of that confuses you, read on. We’re breaking
down everything you need to know about this oft-forgotten,
basement-dwelling home technology, from the taxonomy of water heater
types to tax credit and rebate tips to product recommendations.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Andy Meyer is a senior program manager at
Efficiency Maine, an independent agency that implements energy
efficiency programs in the state. His team is responsible for providing
resources on heat pump water heaters to Maine residents, who buy one out
of every 10 purchased in the U.S.
Ben Foster is vice president of operations at
Barnett Plumbing & Water Heaters, a leading heat pump water heater
contractor in California. He’s also developed loaner water heater
programs supported by TECH Clean California, and notes that most
contractors don’t have access to loaner programs:
Joseph Wachunas is a senior project manager at the
New Buildings Institute, a nonprofit working to reduce emissions and
deliver climate solutions through the built environment. At NBI, he
heads up the Advanced Water Heating Initiative, which aims to
decarbonize water heating through heat pump water heaters.
The first step to switching your water heater is understanding
the Uniform Energy Factor. This is the rating that
determines a water heater’s efficiency, i.e. how much energy it uses to
heat water versus how much it loses in the process. While there is no
“ideal” UEF, a good rule of thumb is the higher the UEF, the more
efficient the water heater.
Most conventional water heaters are spectacularly
inefficient. They work byheating a storage tank of
water either by electric resistance (i.e. the same technology that
powers a toaster) or natural gas. The UEF on conventional water heaters
is generally around 0.6.
Tankless water heaters heat water directly, without a
storage tank. The power source — either an electric element or gas
burner — warms cold water as it travels through a heat exchanger in the
unit. Like conventional water heaters, tankless water heaters can be
powered by either electric resistance or gas, and only heat water when
the user needs it. The UEF on tankless water heaters is typically around
0.8.
Heat pump water heaters and hybrid water
heaters, meanwhile,work by gathering heat
from the surrounding air — the classic comparison is to an air
conditioner, but in reverse. Most heat pump water heaters also have a
back-up electric-resistance mechanism that kicks in during periods of
high demand (thus, hybrid). The UEF on heat pump water heaters is
between 3 and 4, a gobsmacking five times more efficient than
conventional and tankless water heaters, which is instead of quickly
creating heat, they slowly move it around. Heat pump water heaters are
by far the most energy efficient water heaters on the
market.
“Heat pump water heaters are simple to install — any
plumber or handy person can do it — but plumbers may not be familiar
with them. So if you talk with a plumber who has concerns, consider
calling another plumber,” Meyer told me. “Again, Mainers have installed
over 70,000 in the last 12 years. They are no longer new.”
Solar water heaters use the sun’s energy to heat up
water in a storage tank, and are either active or passive — active solar
water heaters use circulating pumps, while passive heaters allow natural
convection to move water from the collectors to the storage tank as it
heats up. Solar water heaters have a different efficiency standard, the
solar energy factor, which is the energy delivered by the system divided
by the electrical or gas energy put into the system. The SEF of most
solar water heaters is somewhere from 2 to 3, and these water heaters
generally only work in areas where temperatures rarely fall below
freezing.
The last type of water heater to keep in mind is indirect water
heaters or tankless coil water heaters, which
use a home’s space heating system to heat water; indirect water heaters
then store that in a tank, whereas tankless coil water heaters work on
demand. These water heaters are generally only efficient during cold
months or in cold climates, when houses’ heating systems are on
regularly — and even then, tankless coil water heaters are notoriously
inefficient.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
How does a heat pump water heater work?
A heat pump water heater is made up of a compressor, storage tank,
condenser, evaporator coil, fan, backup heating elements, and
refrigerant. The compressor, located in the upper compartment of the
water heater, uses refrigerant to heat the water in the storage tank
(via the condenser, which acts as a heat exchanger). The evaporator coil
and fan work to change refrigerant from liquid back to gas after the
water has been heated. The backup electric heating elements kick in only
in periods of high demand to ensure consistent hot water supply.
It gets cold where I live. Can I still get a heat pump water heater?
A common misconception about heat pumps in general is that they don’t
work in colder climates. This is not at all the case — half of electric
water heaters in Maine, for instance, are now heat pumps. As long as
they are installed indoors and in an area where pipes won’t freeze
(typically, a basement), heat pump water heaters work throughout the
year in all climates, according to Meyer and Wachunas. The rule of
thumb, per the DOE, is to install your heat pump water heater in
locations that remain in the 40 degree to 90 degree Fahrenheit range
year-round.
How much can I save with a heat pump water heater?
Per the DOE, replacing your standard electric water heater with a heat
pump water heater can save you
up to 10%
on your electricity bill, reducing your water heating energy consumption
and costs by up to 70%.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
The number one mistake homeowners make when it comes
to their water heaters is waiting until they’re broken to replace them.
This severely limits your options for new water heaters — as Foster
notes, no one “wants to go days without hot water, let alone weeks,” and
it can take weeks or even months to fit your home for a heat pump water
heater. (We’ll get into why a bit later.)
“A lot of contractors, if you want a heat pump and you
have a leaking water heater that needs to be replaced today, they’re
just going to convince you to go with gas,” Foster
said.
Some contractors have loaner water heater programs, so you can
temporarily use a gas heater in an emergency situation, but these
programs are few and far between. If you’ve had your water heater for 10
years or more — even if it’s working just fine — it might be time to
think about replacing it. If you do, you’ll need to consider a few
things about your home and lifestyle, especially if you’re considering a
heat pump water heater:
The size and layout of your house
Heat pump water heaters require a significant amount of space. Per
Pacific Northwest National Laboratory, heat pump water heaters can
require more than 6 feet of height clearance to account for their air
filters, as well as a 3-foot diameter space to provide clearance for the
drain pan and other connections. Additionally, the heat pump water
heater should be positioned so the exhaust outlet is at least 8 inches
away from a wall, door, or ceiling.
Also, since heat pump water heaters work by drawing heat from the
surrounding air, they require 700 cubic feet of unenclosed space
surrounding the water heater location. While it is possible to install a
heat pump water heater in a location with insufficient air volume (for
instance, by installing the water heater with a door equipped with top
and bottom grills), this would require extra work from your contractor.
Taking all these measurements into account, this basically means that a
heat pump water heater requires a 10-foot by 9-foot room with an
8-foot-tall ceiling.
Note
Heat pump water heaters are not silent! Their compressors produce sounds
similar to a dishwasher or dehumidifier when operating. Be mindful of
this when choosing where to install your water heater.
Maintenance requirements of a heat pump water heater
Heat pump water heaters also require monthly and yearly service, Meyer
told me. You should change the water filter every two to six months, and
clear the condensate lines to ensure your unit doesn’t get clogged with
mold or bacteria. Additionally, if your unit is a hybrid, you’ll have to
keep an eye on its anode rod, which can become corroded over time and
lead to heating issues. You’ll have to flush your heat pump water heater
annually to avoid corrosion.
Your household’s size and water needs
If you’re going to DIY it, understanding your household’s water needs is
key to sizing and installing a new heat pump water heater. First,
determine your house’s peak hour demand (the maximum amount of water
your house uses in one hour per day) using
this
worksheet from the DOE. You can then use that number (measured
in gallons) to determine what size heat water heater to buy — look at
the heater’s first hour rating, a.k.a. the amount of hot water the
heater can supply per hour, starting with a tank full of hot water.
You’ll want your heater’s first hour rating to be equal to (or ideally,
higher than) your peak hour demand.
Though you should use the worksheet to determine your unique peak hour
demand, a general rule is that households of one to two people should
use a 50-gallon water heater, while households of three or more people
should use a 65- to 80-gallon tank. The average family uses 50 gallons
of hot water per day, Wachunas explained. “So even if you have lots of
showers in the morning, your heat pump in two to four hours will heat
that water back up and you have plenty of extra supply.”
If you’re between two sizes of heat pump water heaters, always upsize,
Foster said. This ensures that the heat pump is the primary source of
heat, as opposed to the much less efficient backup electric mechanisms.
In other words, it’s far more efficient (and less expensive!) for a
larger heat pump water heater to heat a few extra gallons of water using
the heat pump than it is for a smaller heat pump water heater to have to
use its electric elements to keep up with excess demand.
Your existing wiring
Since many heat pump water heaters have certain voltage requirements,
you may have to upgrade your electrical panel for 240-volt hardwired
service. The cost and time involved in having your service upgraded can
vary and depends on whether the power lines coming into your house are
above ground. If they’re underground, Foster explained, a contractor
will have to excavate and run new cables, which can take over a year.
The best way to determine if you’ll need to upgrade your service is to
have a trusted contractor do an assessment on your home. (This is also
why it’s essential to plan in advance.)
Note
You can circumvent those upfront electrical costs by using new,
lower voltage heat pump water heaters, which first hit the
market in July 2022. Wachunas recommends using the
Watt
Diet calculator to determine how many amps of electricity your home
actually needs. He was able to fully electrify his family’s duplex using
a 120-volt model, which plugs into a standard outlet. While these
120-volt heaters are not cheaper than the higher voltage models, their
easy installation requirements can help you avoid electrical upgrade
costs.
It’s important to note, however, that the electric resistance
backup mechanism on these units is much smaller than standard
hybrid water heaters. That means they have a more limited hot water
output compared to the 240-volt models, which can lead to wait times
during periods of high demand. It can also take longer to heat water to
the desired temperature. Generally, the 120-volt models work best for
smaller households with moderate hot water needs.
Location, location, location
Basements are always the best places for heat pump water heaters,
regardless of climate. Other common locations for installation include
garages, interior rooms, and rooms outside the thermal envelope, like
attached sheds and utility rooms. The garage does not have to be
insulated if outdoor temperatures are usually above 50°F, but if
temperatures dip below freezing and the garage is uninsulated, it’d be
best to consider another location. Interior rooms, like laundry or IT
rooms, are a great choice because a heat pump water heater can utilize
any waste heat generated by the equipment in the room. Finally, rooms
outside the thermal envelope, like attached sheds, can be even more
efficient than interior spaces in hot or warm climates because of the
excess hot air.
Feeling ready to go shopping? Here’s everything you need to know about
the buying and installation process.
There are plenty of tax credits and rebates to take advantage
of. The big one to note is the 30% tax credit from the federal
government (thank you, Inflation Reduction Act!) for heat pump water
heaters, which covers both the unit and installation, up to $2,000. You
can read up on that program
here.
You can also use the Database of State Incentives for Renewables &
Efficiency to research utility rebates
specific to your
region. Also be sure to check out Energy Star’s
rebate
finder and Rewiring America’s
tax
credit guide. (Rewiring America, as it happens, is also a
sponsor of Decarbonize Your Life.) A heat pump water heater typically
costs about $1,000 more than other types of electric water heaters
before rebates and tax credits, but once you factor those in, you may
find you have more budget to work with than you thought. It’ll also save
you about $500 per year on your utility bills, according to Meyer, so
“payback is quick.”
Decide whether you want to hire a contractor or install the new
heater yourself. Though a DIY water heater install sounds
intimidating, it’s “surprisingly accessible for folks if you’re
semi-handy,” Wachunas told me. Efficiency Maine estimates that a third
of its customers install heat pump water heaters themselves. Unlike HVAC
heat pumps, heat pump water heaters are closed systems, so they come
sealed in one packed unit that the customer simply has to install as
they would any other electric water heater. (This also means that if and
when the thing breaks — most heat pump water heaters have 10-year
warranties — the whole unit has to be replaced, not just a part.)
If you’re DIY-ing it, you can buy a heat pump water heater
either online or at a local hardware or home improvement store.
It’s important to keep in mind, however, that these units are quite
heavy and cannot be taken apart. Depending on capacity, they can be over
300 pounds — so prepare accordingly to transport the unit to your house.
As for installing, first, you’ll have to remove your existing water
heater (this will involve draining the tank, removing supply lines, and
disconnecting the power). Next, you’ll clean up your workspace and
prepare your new plumbing material. Then you’ll position your new water
heater, connect your supply lines to the new heater, fill the tank with
cold water, and connect the heater to the electrical supply according to
the manufacturer’s instructions. Voilà! Your heat pump
water heater is ready for use. Check out
this
guide from Northwest Energy Efficiency Alliance. PNNL also has a
great
heat
pump water heater installation tool that can walk you through
the selection and installation process.
If DIY isn’t your bag, it’s essential to find the right
contractor, as not all water heater contractors are familiar with heat
pump water heater models. This often results in plumbers
undersizing their recommendations, “not taking into account the fact
that they take longer to regenerate hot water,” Foster warned. The best
way to find a quality contractor is to use a third party service that
has already done the work of vetting plumbers, according to Foster, such
as The Switch Is
On, or state-specific organizations like Efficiency Maine or
TECH Clean
California. A properly-informed contractor will also be able to
access special rebates that aren’t available to consumers, according to
Foster.
You might want to consider doing a whole-home assessment while
you’re at it. If you’re already planning on making the switch
from a gas stove to an induction stove in addition to replacing your
water heater, for instance, you can consolidate your home renovation
plans with help from organizations like
Quit
Carbon.
This plug-in model caused
quite
a stir when it came out two years ago, and for good reason. Its
low voltage allows it to be plugged into a standard outlet, making it a
great fit for smaller homes with fewer residents, or anyone in need of a
quick fix. (This is also a relatively foolproof choice for DIYers
because of the quick and easy installation process.) For those wanting a
model with a bit more flexibility but still an easy install, there’s the
A.O.
Smith Signature 900Plug-in Hybrid, which is more
expensive but has the added benefit of back-up electric resistance
elements that help with higher hot water demand. Alternatively, you can
go for the
120-Volt
Rheem ProTerra Plug-in Water Heater with HydroBoost, which
utilizes a mixing valve for maximum hot water output.
If app functionality is especially important to you, Rheem’s ProTerra
line might be particularly appealing. The EcoNet app allows users to
monitor the hot water heater from their phone, with status updates on
potential leaks as well as compressor health, hot water availability and
the unit’s set water temperature.
Another solid choice for larger families, for roughly the same price, is
A.O.
Smith’s Signature 900 80-Gal.For further
durability, consider
Bradford
White’s Aerotherm Series water heaters, which can only be
purchased through a qualified contractor, but are frequently praised for
their resilience and anti-microbial technology.
Split-system heat pump water heaters are the answer for truly huge
houses, where the heat pump itself is outside while the storage tank
remains inside. “You can chain together as many heat pump units as you
want with as many storage tanks as you want,” Foster said. “So you can
create as big a system as you want.” While split-system heat pump water
heaters are much less widely-available in the U.S. than they are in Asia
and Europe, you can purchase this one online. SANCO is also shipping a
new fifth generation unit soon, Quit Carbon advises, which may prove
more cost-effective and will qualify for more rebates in California.
The quietest HPWH on the market, at 45 decibels, is made by A.O. Smith,
according to Foster. It’s available in 50, 65, and 80 gallon sizes, so
it can accommodate a variety of household types. Another quiet option is
LG’s
Inverter Heat Pump Water Heater, though LG is much
newer to the heat pump water heater game than Rheem and A.O. Smith, so
it may be more difficult to find qualified contractors.
WHAT’S NEXT?
A GIANT ASTERISK
Three more expert contractors I spoke with — Nate Adams, a longtime HVAC
insulation and sealing contractor in West Virginia who specializes in
electrification retrofits for homeowners; John Semmelhack, an HVAC
consultant and the owner of Think Little, a building science consulting
firm specializing in mechanical system design for passive house and
net-zero energy homes; and Tim Portman, the owner of Portman Mechanical,
specializing in electrification, heating and cooling, and home
performance — had concerns about heat pump water heater installations.
Adams said heaters he’s installed have had a 50% failure rate, while
Portman and Semmelhack cite a 60% failure rate. These issues have
seemingly cropped up after 2018 and are almost entirely occurring with
A.O. Smith and Rheem’s fifth generation of water heater models; older
generations performed and continue to perform much better. “All my
installs from 2014-2018 are still running to my knowledge,” says Adams.
“Which is a big part of my frustration— we had this figured out
already.”
The specific causes of these failures vary, spanning from tanks bursting
to heat pumps losing charge, according to Adams. Semmelhack and Portman,
meanwhile, pointed mainly to refrigerant leaks and compressor issues.
(A.O. Smith and Rheem did not respond to requests for comment.) “All of
the failures are happening inside the first year of operation,” noted
Semmelhack. “So it’s happening pretty quick, which makes us think that
it’s a factory problem and not an environmental problem inside the
household.”
For those who don’t mind waiting, keep an eye on Cala, a promising water
heater startup.
Semmelhack and Portman are hopeful about Cala’s new
heat pump water heaters, which use an AI-powered control system to
forecast hot water demand and heat the water in the tank accordingly
with a heat pump. They’re aiming to start shipping those units in 2025,
and you can preorder and learn more
here.
A
Climate-Conscious Buyer’s Guide for Washers and Dryers
date: 2024-09-23, from: Heatmap News
Americans love laundry. Of the common household chores, it is
by
far the most popular — and the most
energy-intensive. Washing and drying a load of laundry every two days
for a year generates roughly the same emissions as driving from Chicago
to New York and back again in a gasoline-powered passenger vehicle.
Nearly
three-quarters
of those emissions come from drying alone; meanwhile, according to the
Environmental
Protection Agency, the average washing machine generates up to
8% of a home’s total energy use. The whole process can cost
up
to $150 per year in electricity alone, depending on where you
live and the frequency of your washes.
With some regulatory prodding, manufacturers have tried to improve water
and energy efficiency in new appliances and have rolled out fancy new
features like “smart” water-level sensors, vibration reduction
technologies, and microfiber-catching filters. But not every house — or
budget — has room for the latest and greatest technologies, and systems
that would work well in an airy Los Angeles laundry room might make less
sense in a drafty apartment in Minnesota.
Heatmap is here to remove some of the guesswork from upgrading one of
your home’s most-used appliances. Here is our expert panel’s insight
into when and how to purchase a new washer and dryer for your home.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Joanna Mauer is the deputy director
of the Appliance Standards Awareness Project, a non-profit advocacy
group pushing for stricter energy efficiency legislation. In her role at
ASAP, Mauer works with the Department of Energy on its efficiency rules
for residential appliances. She has previously worked for the
Environmental Protection Agency and the Center for Integrative
Environmental Research.
Amber McDaniel is the head of content
at
Sustainable
Jungle, a website and podcast that publishes tips,
tricks, and product reviews, including for major household appliances,
with a focus on environmentally friendly solutions.
Scott Flint is a licensed California
appliance tech with 30 years of experience. He is known as
the
Fix-It Guy on his YouTube channel, where he promotes the upkeep
and repair of home appliances to extend their use. He has also written
extensively about washers and dryers for publications such as
The Family Handyman, Taste Of Home,
and Earth911.
OVERVIEW OF THE PROCESS
Determine whether you need to purchase a new washer
or dryer.
Familiarize yourself with the EnergyGuide and
Energy Star labels. EnergyGuide labels are
yellow, managed by the Federal Trade Commission, and
must be displayed on all washers and dryers (you can learn how to read
an EnergyGuide label
here).
Energy Star labels are light blue squares managed by
the Environmental Protection Agency and are only given to products that
are deemed highly energy efficient. In a given year, the top-tier Energy
Star products are awarded an even higher classification:
Energy
Star Most Efficient. You can think of an Energy Star
certification as a shortcut for interpreting the information on an
EnergyGuide; if an appliance you’re looking at has an Energy Star label,
you can count on it being an efficient product.
Energy Star looks at a washing machine’s Integrated Modified
Energy Factor, or IMEF, an efficiency
measurement that considers the energy used during a cycle and while on
standby, the energy used to heat the water, and the energy used to run
the dryer. The higher the IMEF, the more
energy-efficient the machine. Energy Star requires an IMEF of
at least 2.76 for front-loading washing machines; the upper end of the
IMEF scale is usually around 3.1.
Annual energy use is measured in kilowatt-hours per
year. The number is an estimate based on using a washer under “typical
conditions,” assuming 295 loads per year, or six loads per week. Annual
energy use differs from IMEF in that it does not take into account how
effective the washer is at removing moisture from the clothes in its
spin cycle (washing machines that remove more water reduce subsequent
energy use in the dryer). For context, an average washing machine used
three times a week with cool or warm water goes through
roughly
140 kilowatt-hours per year.
The other number you’ll want to look at is the Integrated Water
Factor, or IWF, which describes efficiency in
gallons of water consumed per cubic foot of capacity. The
lower the IWF, the more
water-efficient the machine. Energy Star requires an IWF of at
least 3.2 or less for a front-loading washing machine, with the lower
end typically around 2.7.
The volume of washers and dryers is measured in cubic feet.
Washers are usually measured as “compact,” “small,” “medium,”
or “large” capacity.A compact washer
has a 2.30 to 2.45 cubic foot capacity, which is big enough for about 10
pounds of laundry. That’s approximately two small armfuls of clothing,
or
roughly
six bath towels.
Washers come in two configurations: top-loading and
front-loading. The names are self-explanatory, but the
benefits aren’t necessarily. “Front loaders are generally more efficient
than top-loading clothes washers,”Mauer told
me, “although there is a big range of efficiency within top-loading
machines, so some are a lot more efficient than others.” Front-loading
washers are also pretty air-tight, however, and their doors should be
left slightly ajar when they’re not in use to prevent mold.
Traditional dryers are vented, meaning that they heat
air with gas or electricity and then disperse that hot, humid air
through an exterior vent to the outside as the clothes tumble dry.
Ventless dryers come in two forms — condenser
and heat pump dryers, which we’ll get into
more below — and recycle the hot air inside without needing a vent
connecting them to the outdoors.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
If I’m getting a new washer or dryer anyway, shouldn’t I spring for
all the latest features?
Peruse the latest washers and dryers and you’ll see features like
sensors that adjust the water level to match the load of laundry,
voice-activated start buttons, WiFi-enabled push notifications for when
it’s time to move a load to the dryer, and more. And while there are
environmentally friendly upsides to some of these features, “the more
simple the machine, the less likely that things will fail,” Flint told
me. In his experience repairing hundreds of washers and dryers over the
years, “People save money on their initial purchase and the machine is
going to last longer if you can minimize the features.”
If it’s Energy Star certified, is that good enough?
The Energy Star certification is a great starting point in your shopping
journey. But it shouldn’t be the be-all, end-all of your research.
Energy Star represents a range of efficiency standards from different
brands, with only the top models earning a “
Most
Efficient” distinction.
You’ll still want to read reviews to get a better understanding of the
reliability of the products you’re looking at, too. Though many new
features on the market promise water and energy savings, they’re
harder
to repair yourself, meaning any potential fixes can get
expensive. They
can
also have shorter lifespans than simpler models.
Will I pay for all those energy savings with my time? That is, will
my clothes take forever to dry?
Eco-friendly washers and dryers are great for a whole laundry list
(get it?) of reasons: They lower
your household energy bill, they reduce emissions, they reduce wasted
water, they’re often easier to install, and they can be gentler on your
clothes. But they don’t necessarily save you time. Energy-efficient
electric dryers can take up to twice as long to dry your clothes than
traditional gas dryers. Still, all of our expert panelists agreed the
upsides outweigh the drawbacks.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Do you really need a new washer or dryer?
Yes, this is a buying guide for purchasing a new washer and dryer. But
before you spend money on new appliances, you should consider working
with what you already have.
If you’re dealing with an old or sub-optimally functional machine and
wondering whether now is the time to upgrade, repairing your existing
washer or dryer can actually be a smarter and thriftier solution; in
fact, Consumer Reportsonly
recommends replacing a dryer if it’s over 10 years old,
electric, and cost less than $700 when you initially purchased it.
Often, whatever’s going on doesn’t even require a professional to fix.
“I think only rarely — let’s say about 20% of the time — would most
people need to call in a technician,” Flint told me. Most washer and
dryer problems are something you can fix using “normal household tools.”
(More on that later.)
Keep in mind, even if you have an old washer or dryer that isn’t very
energy efficient, “that’s still not even going to come close to touching
the amount of energy that was used to produce and ship a new machine,”
McDaniel told me. When your washer or dryer “actually fully stops
working and it’s not doing what you need it to do —
that’s when it’s time to upgrade.”
Measure your room. The three most common configurations
of washers and dryers are side-by-side, stacked, and all-in-one. The
former takes up the most space, while an all-in-one takes up the least
and is better for tight spaces like apartments.
Do you have downstairs neighbors you need to consider?
Front-loading washing machines are typically quieter than top-loaders
because they use gravity, rather than an agitator, to dry clothes and
could be a better choice if noise is a consideration.
Check what hookups you already have. An electric dryer
requires a four-prong, 240-volt outlet (that’s twice the electricity of
a regular wall outlet). A gas dryer requires a gas hookup as well as a
standard 110/115-volt outlet. You can learn more about the required
hookups and what they look like
here.
Can you cut a hole in your wall? Vented dryers expel
hot air, so they must be installed against an exterior wall with a vent
hole cut into it (note that gas dryers must always be installed this way
since they expel carbon monoxide). Ventless dryers are lower maintenance
and can be installed anywhere, including in nontraditional laundry
spaces like kitchens, since they don’t require a hookup to the outside.
What is the temperature control and ventilation like in your
space? Traditional vented dryers expel heated air outside, so
shouldn’t affect the indoor environment, but ventless options can impact
ambient air temperatures in your laundry room. A condenser dryer, for
example, brings in ambient air, heats it, and passes it over the clothes
in the drum to dry them; the hot air then enters a heat exchanger, where
it is cooled, condensing the moisture, which is expelled through a
drain. To work best, condenser dryers usually need to be in a
well-ventilated room between the temperatures of 64 and 75 degrees
Fahrenheit, and it
may
warm the room slightly when it’s running, which is less ideal
for homes in hot climates. On the other hand, heat pump dryers work like
refrigerators in reverse, warming ambient air and recirculating it
inside the drum; they, in turn, can cause the laundry room they’re in to
cool down slightly. They’re also less well suited for garages or
outbuildings since, like condenser dryers, they need a minimum ambient
temperature between about 65 and 75 degrees to operate most effectively.
Do you need a matching washer and dryer set?
There are a number of advantages to purchasing a matching washer and
dryer set. Manufacturers design a set to work together with the same
size load, and a matching pair tends to fit and look better when placed
side by side. It’s wasteful to replace both machines if only one of the
pair has stopped working, however. Embrace the asymmetry.
How much laundry do you do, and what capacity do you need?
Typically, 1.5 to 3.4 cubic feet of capacity is
suitable
for a one- to two-person household, 3.5 to 4.4 cubic feet will do for
two to three people, and 4.5 or more cubic feet will serve a household
with more than three people. But having a new baby or pets might mean
you do more loads of laundry than an average household, in which case
sizing up is better.
Flint told me a common mistake he sees people make is overloading their
washing machines, which can destroy an appliance’s rear bearing — the
part of the machine that helps the drum rotate smoothly — a repair that
is often so costly, it can make more sense to junk the whole machine. On
the other hand, running small loads in a large-capacity washing machine
can mean wasting water cleaning not-as-many clothes. Consider what
washing machine would make the most sense for your needs to maximize
efficiency.
What else is important to you?
Energy and water efficiency are two of the most common considerations
when buying a washer and dryer, and are the primary focus of this guide.
Some consumers may have additional concerns — McDaniel, for example,
recommended looking for a Restriction of Hazardous Substances
certification, which signals that an appliance complies with limits on
heavy metals like lead and cadmium. Ethical considerations — including a
manufacturer’s contributions to armed conflicts, labor practices, and
sourcing of conflict minerals — are also worth close inspection.
Ethical Consumer offers an excellent
guide
for finding a brand that best aligns with your values.
“The first thing that we always recommend is: If you need something new,
try to go refurbished,” McDaniel told me. Still, there’s a right way and
a wrong way to make a major second-hand purchase. McDaniel suggested
going through a reputable source that offers a warranty,
such
as Best Buy (when searching online, make sure to filters for
“Energy Star” and “open box” and check the product’s condition).
Get cozy with the Energy Star website
If you prefer the security of a new product, then it’s time to
familiarize yourself with the Energy Star website. You can sort by
Energy
Star Most Efficient, which are the best of the best, as well as
by price, brand, volume, front-load vs. top-load, vented, ventless, heat
pump, gas, electric,
and
more. Energy Star also makes it easy to
compare
the specs of different products (just tick the “compare” box
next to the machines you’re looking at, then scroll to the top to hit
the orange “compare” button when you’re ready).
The Department of Energy recently adopted new standards for washing
machines and dryers that are equivalent to the current 2024 Energy Star
standards. “Come 2028, when the standards take effect, all new models
will need to meet the performance that current Energy Star models meet,”
Mauer told me.
To dryer or not to dryer — that is the question
Dryers are the
biggest
energy suck in most homes, using two to four times as much
energy as new washers and nearly twice as much as new refrigerators.
McDaniel told me they are also responsible for the greatest wear and
tear on clothes. Dryers are an especially American phenomenon; while
more than 80% of households in the U.S. own a dryer,
just
30% of European households do. That is to say, you probably
don’t
actually
need one, and if you need to save money or space in your laundry
routine, this would be the best place to look to make a cut.
“Not relying on a dryer is huge. I only use mine in the
wintertime, and in the summer, I line dry my clothes — and the only
reason I don’t do that in the winter is I literally don’t have the space
inside,” McDaniel said.
Traditional vented dryers — the energy guzzlers of the American home —
aren’t the only option anymore, though. The next best thing to a
clothesline is
a
heat pump dryer, which Mauer told me is the “most efficient
clothes dryer on the market today,” often far exceeding the Energy Star
requirements. Heat pump dryers have
a
lower maximum temperature, though, so you don’t get that
hot-out-of-the-dryer feel when the load is finished. It can also take an
hour or more to dry a load of laundry fully. The bright side: Because
the heat is lower, heat pump dryers are much gentler on your clothes.
Rebate alert!
Low- and moderate-income households can get
a
maximum rebate of up to $840 for installing a heat-pump dryer.
A word about warranties
“A big red flag for us is brands that don’t warranty their products in
any capacity,” McDaniel told me. Buying a washer or dryer that is
durable is important — Flint told me you should expect to get at least a
decade of use out of a washer and dryer with proper maintenance and
minor repairs — and a warranty is evidence that a company is building a
product that they trust to last.
HEATMAP RECOMMENDS
If you want a really great energy-efficient washing machine, get a top
Energy Star front-loader like the
Electrolux
ELFW7637AT.
The Electrolux ELFW7637AT has one of the highest energy- and
water-efficiency ratings of any washing machine on the market in 2024,
with an IMEF of 3.2 and an integrated water factor of 2.6 — both of
which are exceptional even by Energy Star’s standards. It also
works. Reviewers have
lauded
its SmartBoost stain removal technology, its internal water heater, and
its straightforward controls, although its 85-minute cycle time is a
little
longer
than many other washers on the market.
If you want an energy-efficient washer for a small space, get a
stackable front-loader like the
Miele
WXI860.
Both Flint and McDaniel spoke highly of the German brand Miele, which
makes this compact washing machine. Though its capacity is about half
that of the Electrolux and it didn’t earn Energy Star’s highest level of
certification (it has an IMEF of 2.9 and a IWF of 3.2), it is one of the
more reliable and
best-reviewed
washers on the market.
Admittedly, you have to pay for that kind of dependability — Miele is a
high-end brand with a sticker price that reflects it. The WXI860 gets
high
marks for its cleaning ability, including fill-and-forget
auto-dispensing features, and boasts 72% lower energy consumption than
conventional washers. Additionally, Miele has “a honeycomb-drum
technology, so that when it puts the clothes in the spin cycle, it
creates a thin film of water between the drum wall and the laundry,”
McDaniel told me, which helps prevent clothing fibers from getting
caught. “Little features like that that help keep our clothes in
circulation for longer are also more sustainable.”
If you want the cheapest option and are too impatient for a clothesline,
get a heat pump dryer like the
Beko
HPD24414W.
Mauer swears by heat pump dryers, and there are a number of good choices
on the market right now. Beko is a favorite of the Sustainable
Jungle team, in part because it has a filtration system to
stop microplastics from synthetic fabrics from entering the waterways,
as well as the company’s ambitious commitments to low-waste and recycled
materials. This ventless Beko heat pump dryer is tiny but mighty, making
it a great fit for small spaces (it can even fit under the kitchen
counter), and it boasts a 2023 “Most Efficient” rating from Energy Star.
Being a heat pump dryer, though, it can take a while
to dry clothes —
one
tester found it took 227 minutes to dry a large, bulky load to
100% — but plan ahead and Beko can give you major savings in the long
run. Or, if the Beko isn’t quite what you’re looking for, check out
Miele, which
makes
its own well-reviewed heat pump dryer (although it is small and pricy).
If a heat-pump dryer isn’t right for your lifestyle, the Electrolux
ELFE7637AT is one of the more impressive electric dryers on the market
right now, earning the Energy Star seal of approval. While it still
isn’t superfast (fast takes a lot
of heat, which takes a lot of energy, which makes a machine less
efficient),
reviewers
say it can get a large load to 100% dry in 60 minutes if need
be. It’s also the best-rated electric dryer
on
Consumer Reports’ list that
isn’t one of the Samsung, LG, or GE models that Flint frequently gets
called out to fix.
If you want a combo washer/dryer but don’t want to sacrifice efficiency,
get something with a built-in heat pump like the
GE
Profile PFQ97HSPVDS.
This combo washer-dryer uses heat pump technology in its dryer, making
it one of the more energy-efficient single-unit models on the market.
Unlike some of the other options on this list, however, its larger 4.8
cubic foot drum size is big enough for a two- or three-person household.
While combo washer/dryers still have some downsides over their two-piece
counterparts, including decreased efficiency in cleaning and especially
drying, this is
one
of the better-reviewed units on the market.
If you want a refurbished washing machine, you should look for a Kenmore
Whirlpool series 80.
Flint told me that you can often find older Kenmore Whirlpool series 80
machines on Craigslist that are “ really good, and
tend to sell for about $250 when refurbished, and often come with a
one-year warranty.” The only detriment, he said, is that they’re
top-loaders — which waste a lot of water — but “if somebody just really
needs a tough machine that is going to last, that was a really good
design.”
What if I want to buy from a name brand?
Flint, our expert technician, warned me that he frequently encounters
problems with brands like GE, Samsung, and LG, which is why he
recommends exploring other options first. LG models, however, are the
preferred eco-friendly front-loaders
by
Consumer Reports, and a spokesperson
for the company pointed me toward the brand “consistently” being ranked
“among the top in reliability” as well as LG’s “extensive warranties”
and “comprehensive customer support system.”
Among the options from GE, Whitney Welch, a company spokesperson,
recommended exploring GE Profile UltraFast Combo, which uses heat-pump
techonology, as well as the GE & Hotpoint Top Load Cold Water
Washing Machines, a new line of products from the company that
encourages cold-water washing in order to cut the extensive energy
required during the water-heating process.
Samsung’s spokesperson also highlighted that many of the company’s
models have an Energy Star certification, including the “most efficient”
distinction. He pointed customers interested in energy-saving options to
look for features like “SmartThings,” an app that allows users to
monitor appliance energy useage; “AI Energy Mode,” which uses algorithms
to estimate electricity bills and reduce energy useage, and “AI-Powered
Efficiency,” which optimizes water, detergent, and energy usage in their
washers and dryers.
WHAT’S NEXT?
Congratulations! You’re now the proud owner of a new washer and dryer.
What happens now?
Learn to be handy
New washers and dryers are unfortunately not designed with longevity in
mind — but that doesn’t mean you need to replace them if something goes
wrong after four or five years.
“I can go up to a washing machine that is sitting in the
dump, and I can open up the door, and I can spin the spin basket, and I
can tell that it’s a perfectly good machine,” Flint told me.
Before you shell out on a big repair, check if your appliance is still
covered under warranty. Typically, washers and dryers from reliable
brands will be covered up to a year, though some are covered for longer.
If you do need to hire a technician, do your homework
Still, sometimes you need to call in the big guns. In that case, Flint
recommends doing your due diligence on a review service like Yelp
beforehand.
Once you find someone you like, reach out with the model number of your
machine and the symptom you’re experiencing and the technician “should
be able to provide you a quote without coming out if they know what
they’re doing,” Flint said. If someone does have to
come out to figure out what’s going on, then that visit should be free.
“Don’t go with someone who’s going to charge you to come out and
diagnose the problem and then charge you to fix it.” Repairs to a
front-loading washer will probably run around $170,
according
to Consumer Reports.
Become an expert launderer
You can extend the life of your washer or dryer by following a few more
rules of thumb.
Don’t overstuff your front-loader with heavy fabrics.
Front-loaders have a big open tub, and while it’s tempting to
cram it full with a big mat or dog bed, “those are so heavy that during
the wash cycle, it actually takes the lifespan down to about four
years,” Flint said. Keep loads, especially in front loaders, fairly
light.
Clean the lint trap on your dryer. For one thing, it
helps it to run more efficiently. For another, your house
really
can catch fire if you allow it to build up too much.
Clean the evaporator filter every few cycles if you
have a heat-pump dryer. Here’s a
“boring
yet important” video on how to do just that.
Don’t use too much detergent. It’s bad for your clothes
and it can require extra rinse cycles, which means more wear and tear on
your machine. You almost certainly
don’t
need to be using as much as you are.
If you have a vented dryer, keep its duct clean.Here’s
a how-to.
A
Climate-Conscious Buyer’s Guide for Washers and Dryers
date: 2024-09-23, from: Heatmap News
Americans love laundry. Of the common household chores, it is
by
far the most popular — and the most
energy-intensive. Washing and drying a load of laundry every two days
for a year generates roughly the same emissions as driving from Chicago
to New York and back again in a gasoline-powered passenger vehicle.
Nearly
three-quarters
of those emissions come from drying alone; meanwhile, according to the
Environmental
Protection Agency, the average washing machine generates up to
8% of a home’s total energy use. The whole process can cost
up
to $150 per year in electricity alone, depending on where you
live and the frequency of your washes.
With some regulatory prodding, manufacturers have tried to improve water
and energy efficiency in new appliances and have rolled out fancy new
features like “smart” water-level sensors, vibration reduction
technologies, and microfiber-catching filters. But not every house — or
budget — has room for the latest and greatest technologies, and systems
that would work well in an airy Los Angeles laundry room might make less
sense in a drafty apartment in Minnesota.
Heatmap is here to remove some of the guesswork from upgrading one of
your home’s most-used appliances. Here is our expert panel’s insight
into when and how to purchase a new washer and dryer for your home.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Joanna Mauer is the deputy director
of the Appliance Standards Awareness Project, a non-profit advocacy
group pushing for stricter energy efficiency legislation. In her role at
ASAP, Mauer works with the Department of Energy on its efficiency rules
for residential appliances. She has previously worked for the
Environmental Protection Agency and the Center for Integrative
Environmental Research.
Amber McDaniel is the head of content
at
Sustainable
Jungle, a website and podcast that publishes tips,
tricks, and product reviews, including for major household appliances,
with a focus on environmentally friendly solutions.
Scott Flint is a licensed California
appliance tech with 30 years of experience. He is known as
the
Fix-It Guy on his YouTube channel, where he promotes the upkeep
and repair of home appliances to extend their use. He has also written
extensively about washers and dryers for publications such as
The Family Handyman, Taste Of Home,
and Earth911.
OVERVIEW OF THE PROCESS
Determine whether you need to purchase a new washer
or dryer.
Familiarize yourself with the EnergyGuide and
Energy Star labels. EnergyGuide labels are
yellow, managed by the Federal Trade Commission, and
must be displayed on all washers and dryers (you can learn how to read
an EnergyGuide label
here).
Energy Star labels are light blue squares managed by
the Environmental Protection Agency and are only given to products that
are deemed highly energy efficient. In a given year, the top-tier Energy
Star products are awarded an even higher classification:
Energy
Star Most Efficient. You can think of an Energy Star
certification as a shortcut for interpreting the information on an
EnergyGuide; if an appliance you’re looking at has an Energy Star label,
you can count on it being an efficient product.
Energy Star looks at a washing machine’s Integrated Modified
Energy Factor, or IMEF, an efficiency
measurement that considers the energy used during a cycle and while on
standby, the energy used to heat the water, and the energy used to run
the dryer. The higher the IMEF, the more
energy-efficient the machine. Energy Star requires an IMEF of
at least 2.76 for front-loading washing machines; the upper end of the
IMEF scale is usually around 3.1.
Annual energy use is measured in kilowatt-hours per
year. The number is an estimate based on using a washer under “typical
conditions,” assuming 295 loads per year, or six loads per week. Annual
energy use differs from IMEF in that it does not take into account how
effective the washer is at removing moisture from the clothes in its
spin cycle (washing machines that remove more water reduce subsequent
energy use in the dryer). For context, an average washing machine used
three times a week with cool or warm water goes through
roughly
140 kilowatt-hours per year.
The other number you’ll want to look at is the Integrated Water
Factor, or IWF, which describes efficiency in
gallons of water consumed per cubic foot of capacity. The
lower the IWF, the more
water-efficient the machine. Energy Star requires an IWF of at
least 3.2 or less for a front-loading washing machine, with the lower
end typically around 2.7.
The volume of washers and dryers is measured in cubic feet.
Washers are usually measured as “compact,” “small,” “medium,”
or “large” capacity.A compact washer
has a 2.30 to 2.45 cubic foot capacity, which is big enough for about 10
pounds of laundry. That’s approximately two small armfuls of clothing,
or
roughly
six bath towels.
Washers come in two configurations: top-loading and
front-loading. The names are self-explanatory, but the
benefits aren’t necessarily. “Front loaders are generally more efficient
than top-loading clothes washers,”Mauer told
me, “although there is a big range of efficiency within top-loading
machines, so some are a lot more efficient than others.” Front-loading
washers are also pretty air-tight, however, and their doors should be
left slightly ajar when they’re not in use to prevent mold.
Traditional dryers are vented, meaning that they heat
air with gas or electricity and then disperse that hot, humid air
through an exterior vent to the outside as the clothes tumble dry.
Ventless dryers come in two forms — condenser
and heat pump dryers, which we’ll get into
more below — and recycle the hot air inside without needing a vent
connecting them to the outdoors.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
If I’m getting a new washer or dryer anyway, shouldn’t I spring for
all the latest features?
Peruse the latest washers and dryers and you’ll see features like
sensors that adjust the water level to match the load of laundry,
voice-activated start buttons, WiFi-enabled push notifications for when
it’s time to move a load to the dryer, and more. And while there are
environmentally friendly upsides to some of these features, “the more
simple the machine, the less likely that things will fail,” Flint told
me. In his experience repairing hundreds of washers and dryers over the
years, “People save money on their initial purchase and the machine is
going to last longer if you can minimize the features.”
If it’s Energy Star certified, is that good enough?
The Energy Star certification is a great starting point in your shopping
journey. But it shouldn’t be the be-all, end-all of your research.
Energy Star represents a range of efficiency standards from different
brands, with only the top models earning a “
Most
Efficient” distinction.
You’ll still want to read reviews to get a better understanding of the
reliability of the products you’re looking at, too. Though many new
features on the market promise water and energy savings, they’re
harder
to repair yourself, meaning any potential fixes can get
expensive. They
can
also have shorter lifespans than simpler models.
Will I pay for all those energy savings with my time? That is, will
my clothes take forever to dry?
Eco-friendly washers and dryers are great for a whole laundry list
(get it?) of reasons: They lower
your household energy bill, they reduce emissions, they reduce wasted
water, they’re often easier to install, and they can be gentler on your
clothes. But they don’t necessarily save you time. Energy-efficient
electric dryers can take up to twice as long to dry your clothes than
traditional gas dryers. Still, all of our expert panelists agreed the
upsides outweigh the drawbacks.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Do you really need a new washer or dryer?
Yes, this is a buying guide for purchasing a new washer and dryer. But
before you spend money on new appliances, you should consider working
with what you already have.
If you’re dealing with an old or sub-optimally functional machine and
wondering whether now is the time to upgrade, repairing your existing
washer or dryer can actually be a smarter and thriftier solution; in
fact, Consumer Reportsonly
recommends replacing a dryer if it’s over 10 years old,
electric, and cost less than $700 when you initially purchased it.
Often, whatever’s going on doesn’t even require a professional to fix.
“I think only rarely — let’s say about 20% of the time — would most
people need to call in a technician,” Flint told me. Most washer and
dryer problems are something you can fix using “normal household tools.”
(More on that later.)
Keep in mind, even if you have an old washer or dryer that isn’t very
energy efficient, “that’s still not even going to come close to touching
the amount of energy that was used to produce and ship a new machine,”
McDaniel told me. When your washer or dryer “actually fully stops
working and it’s not doing what you need it to do —
that’s when it’s time to upgrade.”
Measure your room. The three most common configurations
of washers and dryers are side-by-side, stacked, and all-in-one. The
former takes up the most space, while an all-in-one takes up the least
and is better for tight spaces like apartments.
Do you have downstairs neighbors you need to consider?
Front-loading washing machines are typically quieter than top-loaders
because they use gravity, rather than an agitator, to dry clothes and
could be a better choice if noise is a consideration.
Check what hookups you already have. An electric dryer
requires a four-prong, 240-volt outlet (that’s twice the electricity of
a regular wall outlet). A gas dryer requires a gas hookup as well as a
standard 110/115-volt outlet. You can learn more about the required
hookups and what they look like
here.
Can you cut a hole in your wall? Vented dryers expel
hot air, so they must be installed against an exterior wall with a vent
hole cut into it (note that gas dryers must always be installed this way
since they expel carbon monoxide). Ventless dryers are lower maintenance
and can be installed anywhere, including in nontraditional laundry
spaces like kitchens, since they don’t require a hookup to the outside.
What is the temperature control and ventilation like in your
space? Traditional vented dryers expel heated air outside, so
shouldn’t affect the indoor environment, but ventless options can impact
ambient air temperatures in your laundry room. A condenser dryer, for
example, brings in ambient air, heats it, and passes it over the clothes
in the drum to dry them; the hot air then enters a heat exchanger, where
it is cooled, condensing the moisture, which is expelled through a
drain. To work best, condenser dryers usually need to be in a
well-ventilated room between the temperatures of 64 and 75 degrees
Fahrenheit, and it
may
warm the room slightly when it’s running, which is less ideal
for homes in hot climates. On the other hand, heat pump dryers work like
refrigerators in reverse, warming ambient air and recirculating it
inside the drum; they, in turn, can cause the laundry room they’re in to
cool down slightly. They’re also less well suited for garages or
outbuildings since, like condenser dryers, they need a minimum ambient
temperature between about 65 and 75 degrees to operate most effectively.
Do you need a matching washer and dryer set?
There are a number of advantages to purchasing a matching washer and
dryer set. Manufacturers design a set to work together with the same
size load, and a matching pair tends to fit and look better when placed
side by side. It’s wasteful to replace both machines if only one of the
pair has stopped working, however. Embrace the asymmetry.
How much laundry do you do, and what capacity do you need?
Typically, 1.5 to 3.4 cubic feet of capacity is
suitable
for a one- to two-person household, 3.5 to 4.4 cubic feet will do for
two to three people, and 4.5 or more cubic feet will serve a household
with more than three people. But having a new baby or pets might mean
you do more loads of laundry than an average household, in which case
sizing up is better.
Flint told me a common mistake he sees people make is overloading their
washing machines, which can destroy an appliance’s rear bearing — the
part of the machine that helps the drum rotate smoothly — a repair that
is often so costly, it can make more sense to junk the whole machine. On
the other hand, running small loads in a large-capacity washing machine
can mean wasting water cleaning not-as-many clothes. Consider what
washing machine would make the most sense for your needs to maximize
efficiency.
What else is important to you?
Energy and water efficiency are two of the most common considerations
when buying a washer and dryer, and are the primary focus of this guide.
Some consumers may have additional concerns — McDaniel, for example,
recommended looking for a Restriction of Hazardous Substances
certification, which signals that an appliance complies with limits on
heavy metals like lead and cadmium. Ethical considerations — including a
manufacturer’s contributions to armed conflicts, labor practices, and
sourcing of conflict minerals — are also worth close inspection.
Ethical Consumer offers an excellent
guide
for finding a brand that best aligns with your values.
“The first thing that we always recommend is: If you need something new,
try to go refurbished,” McDaniel told me. Still, there’s a right way and
a wrong way to make a major second-hand purchase. McDaniel suggested
going through a reputable source that offers a warranty,
such
as Best Buy (when searching online, make sure to filters for
“Energy Star” and “open box” and check the product’s condition).
Get cozy with the Energy Star website
If you prefer the security of a new product, then it’s time to
familiarize yourself with the Energy Star website. You can sort by
Energy
Star Most Efficient, which are the best of the best, as well as
by price, brand, volume, front-load vs. top-load, vented, ventless, heat
pump, gas, electric,
and
more. Energy Star also makes it easy to
compare
the specs of different products (just tick the “compare” box
next to the machines you’re looking at, then scroll to the top to hit
the orange “compare” button when you’re ready).
The Department of Energy recently adopted new standards for washing
machines and dryers that are equivalent to the current 2024 Energy Star
standards. “Come 2028, when the standards take effect, all new models
will need to meet the performance that current Energy Star models meet,”
Mauer told me.
To dryer or not to dryer — that is the question
Dryers are the
biggest
energy suck in most homes, using two to four times as much
energy as new washers and nearly twice as much as new refrigerators.
McDaniel told me they are also responsible for the greatest wear and
tear on clothes. Dryers are an especially American phenomenon; while
more than 80% of households in the U.S. own a dryer,
just
30% of European households do. That is to say, you probably
don’t
actually
need one, and if you need to save money or space in your laundry
routine, this would be the best place to look to make a cut.
“Not relying on a dryer is huge. I only use mine in the
wintertime, and in the summer, I line dry my clothes — and the only
reason I don’t do that in the winter is I literally don’t have the space
inside,” McDaniel said.
Traditional vented dryers — the energy guzzlers of the American home —
aren’t the only option anymore, though. The next best thing to a
clothesline is
a
heat pump dryer, which Mauer told me is the “most efficient
clothes dryer on the market today,” often far exceeding the Energy Star
requirements. Heat pump dryers have
a
lower maximum temperature, though, so you don’t get that
hot-out-of-the-dryer feel when the load is finished. It can also take an
hour or more to dry a load of laundry fully. The bright side: Because
the heat is lower, heat pump dryers are much gentler on your clothes.
Rebate alert!
Low- and moderate-income households can get
a
maximum rebate of up to $840 for installing a heat-pump dryer.
A word about warranties
“A big red flag for us is brands that don’t warranty their products in
any capacity,” McDaniel told me. Buying a washer or dryer that is
durable is important — Flint told me you should expect to get at least a
decade of use out of a washer and dryer with proper maintenance and
minor repairs — and a warranty is evidence that a company is building a
product that they trust to last.
HEATMAP RECOMMENDS
If you want a really great energy-efficient washing machine, get a top
Energy Star front-loader like the
Electrolux
ELFW7637AT.
The Electrolux ELFW7637AT has one of the highest energy- and
water-efficiency ratings of any washing machine on the market in 2024,
with an IMEF of 3.2 and an integrated water factor of 2.6 — both of
which are exceptional even by Energy Star’s standards. It also
works. Reviewers have
lauded
its SmartBoost stain removal technology, its internal water heater, and
its straightforward controls, although its 85-minute cycle time is a
little
longer
than many other washers on the market.
If you want an energy-efficient washer for a small space, get a
stackable front-loader like the
Miele
WXI860.
Both Flint and McDaniel spoke highly of the German brand Miele, which
makes this compact washing machine. Though its capacity is about half
that of the Electrolux and it didn’t earn Energy Star’s highest level of
certification (it has an IMEF of 2.9 and a IWF of 3.2), it is one of the
more reliable and
best-reviewed
washers on the market.
Admittedly, you have to pay for that kind of dependability — Miele is a
high-end brand with a sticker price that reflects it. The WXI860 gets
high
marks for its cleaning ability, including fill-and-forget
auto-dispensing features, and boasts 72% lower energy consumption than
conventional washers. Additionally, Miele has “a honeycomb-drum
technology, so that when it puts the clothes in the spin cycle, it
creates a thin film of water between the drum wall and the laundry,”
McDaniel told me, which helps prevent clothing fibers from getting
caught. “Little features like that that help keep our clothes in
circulation for longer are also more sustainable.”
If you want the cheapest option and are too impatient for a clothesline,
get a heat pump dryer like the
Beko
HPD24414W.
Mauer swears by heat pump dryers, and there are a number of good choices
on the market right now. Beko is a favorite of the Sustainable
Jungle team, in part because it has a filtration system to
stop microplastics from synthetic fabrics from entering the waterways,
as well as the company’s ambitious commitments to low-waste and recycled
materials. This ventless Beko heat pump dryer is tiny but mighty, making
it a great fit for small spaces (it can even fit under the kitchen
counter), and it boasts a 2023 “Most Efficient” rating from Energy Star.
Being a heat pump dryer, though, it can take a while
to dry clothes —
one
tester found it took 227 minutes to dry a large, bulky load to
100% — but plan ahead and Beko can give you major savings in the long
run. Or, if the Beko isn’t quite what you’re looking for, check out
Miele, which
makes
its own well-reviewed heat pump dryer (although it is small and pricy).
If a heat-pump dryer isn’t right for your lifestyle, the Electrolux
ELFE7637AT is one of the more impressive electric dryers on the market
right now, earning the Energy Star seal of approval. While it still
isn’t superfast (fast takes a lot
of heat, which takes a lot of energy, which makes a machine less
efficient),
reviewers
say it can get a large load to 100% dry in 60 minutes if need
be. It’s also the best-rated electric dryer
on
Consumer Reports’ list that
isn’t one of the Samsung, LG, or GE models that Flint frequently gets
called out to fix.
If you want a combo washer/dryer but don’t want to sacrifice efficiency,
get something with a built-in heat pump like the
GE
Profile PFQ97HSPVDS.
This combo washer-dryer uses heat pump technology in its dryer, making
it one of the more energy-efficient single-unit models on the market.
Unlike some of the other options on this list, however, its larger 4.8
cubic foot drum size is big enough for a two- or three-person household.
While combo washer/dryers still have some downsides over their two-piece
counterparts, including decreased efficiency in cleaning and especially
drying, this is
one
of the better-reviewed units on the market.
If you want a refurbished washing machine, you should look for a Kenmore
Whirlpool series 80.
Flint told me that you can often find older Kenmore Whirlpool series 80
machines on Craigslist that are “ really good, and
tend to sell for about $250 when refurbished, and often come with a
one-year warranty.” The only detriment, he said, is that they’re
top-loaders — which waste a lot of water — but “if somebody just really
needs a tough machine that is going to last, that was a really good
design.”
What if I want to buy from a name brand?
Flint, our expert technician, warned me that he frequently encounters
problems with brands like GE, Samsung, and LG, which is why he
recommends exploring other options first. LG models, however, are the
preferred eco-friendly front-loaders
by
Consumer Reports, and a spokesperson
for the company pointed me toward the brand “consistently” being ranked
“among the top in reliability” as well as LG’s “extensive warranties”
and “comprehensive customer support system.”
Among the options from GE, Whitney Welch, a company spokesperson,
recommended exploring GE Profile UltraFast Combo, which uses heat-pump
techonology, as well as the GE & Hotpoint Top Load Cold Water
Washing Machines, a new line of products from the company that
encourages cold-water washing in order to cut the extensive energy
required during the water-heating process.
Samsung’s spokesperson also highlighted that many of the company’s
models have an Energy Star certification, including the “most efficient”
distinction. He pointed customers interested in energy-saving options to
look for features like “SmartThings,” an app that allows users to
monitor appliance energy useage; “AI Energy Mode,” which uses algorithms
to estimate electricity bills and reduce energy useage, and “AI-Powered
Efficiency,” which optimizes water, detergent, and energy usage in their
washers and dryers.
WHAT’S NEXT?
Congratulations! You’re now the proud owner of a new washer and dryer.
What happens now?
Learn to be handy
New washers and dryers are unfortunately not designed with longevity in
mind — but that doesn’t mean you need to replace them if something goes
wrong after four or five years.
“I can go up to a washing machine that is sitting in the
dump, and I can open up the door, and I can spin the spin basket, and I
can tell that it’s a perfectly good machine,” Flint told me.
Before you shell out on a big repair, check if your appliance is still
covered under warranty. Typically, washers and dryers from reliable
brands will be covered up to a year, though some are covered for longer.
If you do need to hire a technician, do your homework
Still, sometimes you need to call in the big guns. In that case, Flint
recommends doing your due diligence on a review service like Yelp
beforehand.
Once you find someone you like, reach out with the model number of your
machine and the symptom you’re experiencing and the technician “should
be able to provide you a quote without coming out if they know what
they’re doing,” Flint said. If someone does have to
come out to figure out what’s going on, then that visit should be free.
“Don’t go with someone who’s going to charge you to come out and
diagnose the problem and then charge you to fix it.” Repairs to a
front-loading washer will probably run around $170,
according
to Consumer Reports.
Become an expert launderer
You can extend the life of your washer or dryer by following a few more
rules of thumb.
Don’t overstuff your front-loader with heavy fabrics.
Front-loaders have a big open tub, and while it’s tempting to
cram it full with a big mat or dog bed, “those are so heavy that during
the wash cycle, it actually takes the lifespan down to about four
years,” Flint said. Keep loads, especially in front loaders, fairly
light.
Clean the lint trap on your dryer. For one thing, it
helps it to run more efficiently. For another, your house
really
can catch fire if you allow it to build up too much.
Clean the evaporator filter every few cycles if you
have a heat-pump dryer. Here’s a
“boring
yet important” video on how to do just that.
Don’t use too much detergent. It’s bad for your clothes
and it can require extra rinse cycles, which means more wear and tear on
your machine. You almost certainly
don’t
need to be using as much as you are.
If you have a vented dryer, keep its duct clean.Here’s
a how-to.
How (and Why!)
to Think About Driving a Little Less
date: 2024-09-23, from: Heatmap News
I love driving. Love it. And I am not alone.
“Automobility is our national way of life,” the historian and journalist
Dan Albert
has
written. Getting your driver’s license is as close to a
coming-of-age ritual as we have; cars inspire everything from our
music
to our
movies
to the design of
where
we live. At the same time, the automobile has
boxed
out other options for getting around,
poisoned
the air we breathe, and is
the
country’s most significant single cause of climate change.
Driving is so integral to American life that only
8%
of U.S. households currently get by without owning a car (and
20% of those carless households, including mine, are located in the
relative mass transit paragon
New
York City). For most people, “giving up driving” is more of a
radical thought experiment than a realistic possibility.
Here’s the thing, though: You can almost certainly drive less than you
do right now. Yes, that takes thinking and planning and doing some
things differently than the way you’ve always done. (You can also check
out our
e-bike
guide for more advice on that.) But the majority of car trips made
by U.S. drivers are for distances of
less
than three miles. “If I just need to pick up a carton of milk,
does it make sense to do that in a 6,000-pound metal box on wheels that
is powered by dinosaur juice? Not so much,” Doug Gordon, the cohost of
“The
War on Cars,” a podcast about the fight against car culture,
told me recently for our guide about how to drive less.
As urban theorists have argued for decades, America’s overreliance on
cars has reduced our overall freedom. In addition to
diminishing our options for getting around — it’s car or bust in places
without safe bike lanes, public transportation options, or dense
residential and commercial development — there is also the “inescapable
dependence on a vast support structure comprising oil refineries, tanker
fleets, service stations, repair shops, road crews, traffic police,
emergency services, investment in road projects, manufacturing,
licensing, registration, insurance, and all who work in these areas,”
notes
the Public Transport Users Association. “Seen this way, even a bicycle
permits greater freedom.”
Cycling is, on balance, usually more convenient than driving (no need to
look for parking!), not to mention far cheaper and healthier. Driving
costs about $5,522 per year,
according
to the Department of Labor’s Bureau of Labor Statistics; cycling
only 10 miles a week can knock off about $299. Other studies have found
that the health benefits of cycling add an additional three to 14 months
to your life, even when the possibilities of collisions and air
pollution
are
factored in.
We can’t just Tesla our way out of the global emissions problem, either.
To reduce transportation emissions by 45% by 2030, we would need 70
million electric vehicles on the road — in addition to
reducing miles driven 20% per capita,
RMI
has found. Public transportation or cycling are the next best
options for most people in most places.
E-bikes, especially, are incredible car replacement tools, helping to
make otherwise daunting commutes manageable for a bigger pool of people
(you don’t even have to be athletic!). While there can be sticker shock
shopping around, there are also also all kinds of e-bike incentive
programs and lending libraries available, and even higher-end models
cost cost a fraction of a car at the end of the day. (“Well, but what if
it rains?” As the old Scandi saying goes, there’s
no
such thing as bad weather; just bad clothing..)
Americans admittedly have one very good reason to resist letting go of
their cars: Our infrastructure is so overwhelmingly car-centric that it
is actively hostile to people who are thinking about alternative ways of
getting around. “So often in the United States, we think about things
like, ‘What is the most convenient way for every single person in a car
to get from Point A to Point B with as few obstacles as possible?’”
Alexa Sledge, the director of communications at
Transportation
Alternatives, a nonprofit organization that promotes
non-polluting and safe travel in New York City, told me. “But that
leaves so many people behind.”
This might actually be one of the biggest social benefits of using your
car less: It will, in turn, open your eyes to how little room has been
left for anything else. “Reimagining how we’re going to truly allocate
our public resources — our public dollars, our public services — to
serve everyone is so important,” Sledge stressed. Looking around, you’ll
realize there is almost never a justifiable reason for your suburb or
city to lack protected bike lanes or sidewalks or crosswalks — other
than because they weren’t expected or demanded in the first place. What
a failure of imagination that is.
And the best part? Even as you think about driving a little less, you
can still love cars. A car can be an incredible
freedom machine. But it isn’t the only one.
How (and
Why!) to Think About Driving a Little Less
date: 2024-09-23, from: Heatmap News
I love driving. Love it. And I am not alone.
“Automobility is our national way of life,” the historian and journalist
Dan Albert
has
written. Getting your driver’s license is as close to a
coming-of-age ritual as we have; cars inspire everything from our
music
to our
movies
to the design of
where
we live. At the same time, the automobile has
boxed
out other options for getting around,
poisoned
the air we breathe, and is
the
country’s most significant single cause of climate change.
Driving is so integral to American life that only
8%
of U.S. households currently get by without owning a car (and
20% of those carless households, including mine, are located in the
relative mass transit paragon
New
York City). For most people, “giving up driving” is more of a
radical thought experiment than a realistic possibility.
Here’s the thing, though: You can almost certainly drive less than you
do right now. Yes, that takes thinking and planning and doing some
things differently than the way you’ve always done. (You can also check
out our
e-bike
guide for more advice on that.) But the majority of car trips made
by U.S. drivers are for distances of
less
than three miles. “If I just need to pick up a carton of milk,
does it make sense to do that in a 6,000-pound metal box on wheels that
is powered by dinosaur juice? Not so much,” Doug Gordon, the cohost of
“The
War on Cars,” a podcast about the fight against car culture,
told me recently for our guide about how to drive less.
As urban theorists have argued for decades, America’s overreliance on
cars has reduced our overall freedom. In addition to
diminishing our options for getting around — it’s car or bust in places
without safe bike lanes, public transportation options, or dense
residential and commercial development — there is also the “inescapable
dependence on a vast support structure comprising oil refineries, tanker
fleets, service stations, repair shops, road crews, traffic police,
emergency services, investment in road projects, manufacturing,
licensing, registration, insurance, and all who work in these areas,”
notes
the Public Transport Users Association. “Seen this way, even a bicycle
permits greater freedom.”
Cycling is, on balance, usually more convenient than driving (no need to
look for parking!), not to mention far cheaper and healthier. Driving
costs about $5,522 per year,
according
to the Department of Labor’s Bureau of Labor Statistics; cycling
only 10 miles a week can knock off about $299. Other studies have found
that the health benefits of cycling add an additional three to 14 months
to your life, even when the possibilities of collisions and air
pollution
are
factored in.
We can’t just Tesla our way out of the global emissions problem, either.
To reduce transportation emissions by 45% by 2030, we would need 70
million electric vehicles on the road — in addition to
reducing miles driven 20% per capita,
RMI
has found. Public transportation or cycling are the next best
options for most people in most places.
E-bikes, especially, are incredible car replacement tools, helping to
make otherwise daunting commutes manageable for a bigger pool of people
(you don’t even have to be athletic!). While there can be sticker shock
shopping around, there are also also all kinds of e-bike incentive
programs and lending libraries available, and even higher-end models
cost cost a fraction of a car at the end of the day. (“Well, but what if
it rains?” As the old Scandi saying goes, there’s
no
such thing as bad weather; just bad clothing..)
Americans admittedly have one very good reason to resist letting go of
their cars: Our infrastructure is so overwhelmingly car-centric that it
is actively hostile to people who are thinking about alternative ways of
getting around. “So often in the United States, we think about things
like, ‘What is the most convenient way for every single person in a car
to get from Point A to Point B with as few obstacles as possible?’”
Alexa Sledge, the director of communications at
Transportation
Alternatives, a nonprofit organization that promotes
non-polluting and safe travel in New York City, told me. “But that
leaves so many people behind.”
This might actually be one of the biggest social benefits of using your
car less: It will, in turn, open your eyes to how little room has been
left for anything else. “Reimagining how we’re going to truly allocate
our public resources — our public dollars, our public services — to
serve everyone is so important,” Sledge stressed. Looking around, you’ll
realize there is almost never a justifiable reason for your suburb or
city to lack protected bike lanes or sidewalks or crosswalks — other
than because they weren’t expected or demanded in the first place. What
a failure of imagination that is.
And the best part? Even as you think about driving a little less, you
can still love cars. A car can be an incredible
freedom machine. But it isn’t the only one.
“The only thing better for the climate than buying an EV over a
gasoline-powered car is buying no car at all,” the climate scientist
Rob
Jackson has written. But for many Americans, not having a car
at all is the stuff of logistical and cultural
nightmares. The average person living in the U.S. covers
more
than 1,000 miles per month in their vehicle, and
nearly
45% of people don’t even have the option of opting for public
transportation. Ditching your car? You might as well
ask people to give up their cell phones.
But across the country, transportation advocates and e-bike warriors are
looking for solutions to go, if not entirely car-less,
then at least car-light. Heatmap has put together a comprehensive guide
to help you make a decision that best fits your lifestyle, whether
that’s becoming a superpedestrian, a committed e-bike user, or just
trying to replace a couple of short-haul drives a week.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Doug Gordon is the cohost of
“The
War on Cars,” a podcast about the fight against car culture. He
is also a writer, TV producer, and safe streets advocate, and he advises
nonprofits and mobility companies on communications strategies to
promote better streets and public infrastructure through his
Brooklyn
Spoke Media consulting business.
Alexa Sledge is the director of
communications at
Transportation
Alternatives, a nonprofit organization that has worked to
promote non-polluting, safe, and quiet travel in New York City since
1973.
Bryan Deanis the
sales manager at
The
eBike Store in Portland, Oregon, which opened in 2008 as the
city’s first e-bike-only retailer. He’s spent over six years helping
customers pick out their perfect bikes and is also the creator of the
#eBikeAnywhere hashtag.
Kevin Lau is a product specialist at
REI
with more than 20 years of experience. He is based out of Marlton, New
Jersey.
Active transportation or active mobility
refers to human-powered getting-around — such as walking, using
a bicycle, e-bike, skateboard,
kick
scooter, or electric kick scooter — that reduces the reliance on
cars. Forms of active mobility are often used for
first-mile or last-mile connectivity
in conjunction with public transportation systems (that is, for the
first and last leg of a trip that connects a person with their transit
stop and their starting point or destination).
E-bikes are bicycles with small electric motors that
can assist in pedaling, making them easier to ride. They come in three
classes, each of which has its own optimal use case and standard
features:
Which class is right for you?
Class 1: Pedal assist only
Feels like: A little bit of tailwind
Max speed: Pedal assist tops out at 19.5 mph
Restrictions: Allowed on any trail or path where
traditional “analog” bikes are allowed*
Best for: Beginners, people on a budget, or people who
want the flexibility to ride their e-bike anywhere
Class 2: Pedal assist and throttle
Feels like: A medium amount of tailwind
Max speed: Pedal assist and throttle top out at 19.5
mph
Restrictions: Allowed on most paths and trails where
traditional bikes are allowed (some restrictions may apply)
Best for: People who want to ride long distances
without having to pedal, or who live in a hilly area
Class 3: Pedal assist or pedal assist and
throttle
Feels like: “A hurricane vibe,” according to Dean
Max speed: Pedal assist tops out at 27.5 mph**, or at
19.5 mph with the throttle
Restrictions: Often restricted on bike paths and
multi-use pedestrian trails; riders are required to wear helmets; the
bike must have a speedometer; and age restrictions may apply
Best for: People who plan to use their bike to replace
car commutes or to run bigger errands
*Alaska and Rhode Island classify e-bikes as motor vehicles and may
have additional restrictions.
**If 28 miles per hour sounds utterly terrifying to you, don’t
worry. “The majority of the class 3 bikes that I sell will probably
never go faster than 15 miles an hour because that’s how the customer
wants to ride it,” Dean explained. “Class 3 bikes will not instantly go
28 miles per hour.”
Another thing to look for when shopping for an e-bike is if it has a
hub-drive or a mid-drive motor. As you
can probably guess, a hub-drive motor “is built into the hub of one of
the wheels,” while a mid-drive motor “is built into the frame near the
cranks,” Lau told me. “Usually, a hub drive system will be less
expensive than a mid-drive system, but a mid-drive system is considered
to ride a bit smoother and has a more balanced center of gravity,” he
said.
E-bike battery capacity is measured in watt hours —
quite literally, how many watts can be delivered in an hour. The usual
range for e-bike batteries is between 300 watt hours and 1,000 watt
hours. Many factors contribute to how fast you drain the battery, from
the surface you’re riding on to its grade to the speed of pedal assist.
But generally speaking,
you
can expect to use about 10 to 20 watt hours per mile. (Want to
have some fun? Mess around with
Bosch’s
e-bike range calculator to get a sense of how far you can go and
with what effort.)
In addition to e-bikes, you might also see references to
electric motorcycles, Vespas, or
mopeds. Most of these fall under the class of
motorscooters, which are
differentiated from e-bikes in that they don’t have pedals (they are
also different from e-scooters like
Lime,
which are modeled on human-powered
kick
scooters). Also unlike e-bikes, motor scooters require a
driver’s license and must be registered as a motor vehicle. An electric
motorcycle will require a motorcycle license if it goes over 30 mph.
Scooters are also much heavier than e-bikes, don’t have removable
batteries, and may run on gasoline,
canceling
out some of the environmental and health advantages.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
I live in the suburbs — is it even possible to go car-less?
Only
8%
of U.S. households currently get by without owning a car, and
less
than 1% of Americans commute to work by bike. The U.S. is so
driving-centric that we’re home to one-fifth of all the cars on
the planet despite having less than 5% of the global
population.Eleven states have
more
registered vehicles than people.
But just because driving has always been your default doesn’t mean it
makes the most sense for the kind of travel you do — even if you live
somewhere without great public transportation. Over half of all trips
Americans make in a car are for a distance of
less
than three miles — perfect to convert into a bike ride.
“I think of mobility like a Swiss army knife: You have to
use the right tool for the job,” Gordon told me. “If I just need to pick
up a carton of milk, does it make sense to do that in a 6,000-pound
metal box on wheels that is powered by dinosaur juice? Not so
much.”
On average, commuting by bike in the U.S. saves an estimated $2,500 per
year, and it
has
been found to have massive benefits for one’s mental health,
cardiovascular health, and even productivity at work. Yes,
even
e-bikes!
“If you go to places like Copenhagen or Amsterdam — places where there
are huge numbers of cyclists — and you poll those people, concern for
the environment barely cracks the top five reasons why they cycle,”
Gordon said. “The reasons why people cycle in Denmark and the
Netherlands are because it’s safe and convenient, and it’s often the
fastest and cheapest way to get where they’re going.”
If we’re just talking about short trips, will it really make a
difference?
Transportation is
the
most significant contributor to climate change in the United
States, with nearly 60% of the sector’s greenhouse gas emissions coming
from cars alone (another 23% comes from trucks). Replacing a quarter of
your total driving with walking, biking, or e-biking could save 1.3 tons
of greenhouse gas emissions per year, according to our friends at
WattTime — about the same as forgoing burning 1,433 pounds of coal or
three barrels of oil. If every American drove even a mere 10% less per
year, it’d be like taking
28
coal-fired power plants offline.
You can still make a significant impact without ditching your car, in
other words: You simply have to drive less. And the
upsides are enormous. More Americans
die
of car pollution than in car accidents every year. Additionally,
commuting by bike or by foot makes us healthier and happier.
It also helps us realize what our community priorities should be.
“Individual action is not always what we need to focus on,” Gordon said.
“We need to focus on institutional change. But my philosophy is that
lots of individual action actually adds up to the political will to get
the institutional change you need.”
Is it really worth the risk of crashing — or sweating?
A survey of studies from five countries (including the U.S.) found that
the
main barriers to cycling were low perceived safety, bad weather,
lack of cycling infrastructure (including “shower facilities” at one’s
destination), and distance and perceived effort.
Safety is a valid concern. Riding a bike is about 500 times more likely
to be fatal than riding a bus, according to
a
2007 study; even with
the
success of programs like New York’s Vision Zero, collisions with
cars remain a real danger for people on bikes. The car-related pollution
inhaled while cycling can also shorten a cyclist’s life by an estimated
one to 40 days. But the benefits of cycling on average far outweigh the
risks: Riding a bike adds an estimated three to 14
months to your life, even when the possibilities of collisions and air
pollution
are
considered. The health benefits are so significant that
a
separate study by Swedish researchers found that cyclists had a
47% lower risk of early death and a 10% lower risk of hospitalization
compared to car and train commuters.
What about concerns about shower availability and the “distance and
perceived effort” of riding a bike? That’s where the advantages of an
e-bike’s pedal assist come into play. “E-bikes are great at blasting
through any concerns you have about sweat,” Gordon told me. Even in hot
weather or on difficult terrain, pedal assist can keep you looking fresh
when you arrive at the office.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
How much driving can you realistically replace with other modes of
transportation?
The first step to driving less is thinking about when and where you can
replace specific trips with walking, cycling, or public transportation
instead. Lau told me his general rule of thumb is that if a trip is less
than a mile and he can safely walk (i.e. if there are sidewalks or safe
paths), then he’ll walk. “If it’s more than that, I’ll take the bike if
I have a place to lock it or can bring it into my workplace or store,”
he said. For trips where he might need some extra assistance — that are
farther, longer, hillier, or will require carrying “more cargo without
working as hard,” he’ll opt for an e-bike instead.
You can do a lot of this reconnaissance from your couch. Apple Maps and
Google
Maps can take a lot of the guesswork out of finding the best
bike paths to and from your house and the other places you frequent,
including informing you ahead of time if the route will require riding
on major or minor roads or ones with protected bike lanes. Google and
Apple Maps can also give you real-time information about public
transportation options in your area (as well as allow you to plan for
trips when service might be reduced, like late nights or weekends), and
many transit systems now have their own apps to make tracking delays or
alternative service simpler.
It’s okay to take it slow
There’s no need to go overboard here, at least not to start! “The thing
to think about is not ‘Can I go completely car-free?’ but ‘What trips
could I replace?’” Gordon told me. It’s like Meatless Mondays: “You
don’t have to become a complete vegan overnight, but you could replace
one day’s worth of meals a week. It’s the same with cycling: Maybe you
could ride to your kid’s soccer game or do one little grocery trip a
week to the nearest market and do it by bike instead of by car. See how
that feels.”
What’s the elevation like in your area?
It’s funny how you don’t realize where the long, slow inclines are in
your neighborhood until you’re huffing up them on a bike. Google Maps
and Apple Maps can show you what elevation to expect on a walking or
cycling route. If you live in a hillier area, an e-bike might be better
than a traditional bike since it can take some of the ouch out
of the ups.
What’s the weather like in your area?
“Something really, really important that people don’t always think about
is gear,” Sledge told me. “It doesn’t necessarily have to be expensive,
but if you can only ride your bike when it’s 80 degrees and sunny,
that’s not the best scenario.”
If you live somewhere where it gets hot, rainy, snowy, windy, or the
weather can change unexpectedly, think ahead of time about the sort of
gear you’d need to make cycling or walking more comfortable. (We have a
checklist of ideas below.)
What programs exist in your area that you can use to your advantage?
California, Colorado, Connecticut, Hawaii, Massachusetts, New York,
Oklahoma, and Vermont all have statewide tax credits or rebates to
encourage e-bike adoption.
Live somewhere that isn’t on that list? Here is
a
super handy tracker from the Transportation Research and
Education Center at Portland State University of more than 100 counties,
cities, and municipalities that offer e-bike incentive programs. Also,
look for e-bike lending libraries that
might
be in your area.
If you’re having trouble learning about the programs available to you,
head into a brick-and-mortar e-bike shop in your area or connect with
your local transportation advocacy group — they’ll know what programs
you can take advantage of and be happy to point you in the right
direction.
Grab a coffee with the bike geek in your life
Do you know what bike enthusiasts love more than anything? Creating new
bike enthusiasts. If you’re still feeling intimidated by the idea of
getting on a bike — or even if you’re not — “find a friend who’s already
doing it,” Gordon suggested. Bike people are “an evangelical bunch, and
if you tell a friend who you know is into biking or bike commutes
regularly that ‘Hey, I’m thinking of doing it,’ I can guarantee that
person will be more than happy to hold your hand and help you through
your first ride.”
Taking off the training wheels
Many people are understandably scared of riding a bike alongside cars.
If you want to build up a little more confidence before hitting the
road, the Global Cycling Network has a good
intro
to urban cycling video that covers some of the basics about
holding your place in the lane, signaling, and avoiding dangerous
blindspots.
You can also build up confidence on bike paths and pedestrian trails
where you don’t have to contend with cars or look to join group rides in
your area. Meet-ups in particular are a great place to make bike friends
and will help you get comfortable navigating the streets in your area.
(In Portland, for example, there are
hundreds
of such events to choose from.)
There are dozens of emissions-free or emissions-light transportation
options, from using your own two feet to digging the old beater bicycle
out of your garage to going full
Steve
Wozniak with a
Segway.
The most important thing is to something you’ll actually use.
That said — “What’s really going to be the best option for most
Americans is an e-bike,” Sledge told me. “That’s a true car replacement
when so often a [traditional] bike can’t be a true, true,
true car replacement.” E-bikes are simply more
practical and comfortable for longer rides or daily commutes, and if you
need to haul things like groceries or children, they can’t be beaten.
I’ve looked at all my options and don’t think I can
drive any less than I already do. What can I do
instead?
Get
an electric vehicle. For some people, car trips will be
unavoidable — and in that case, replacing gas-powered vehicle miles with
battery-electric powered vehicle miles is the next best thing. Here’s
Heatmap’s guide to buying an EV for more on that.
Carpool. It’s absurd how many car trips in the U.S. are
made with only one person in the vehicle. Many schools and businesses
will help organize carpools, and there are an increasing number of
websites dedicated to helping connect commuters. Every carpool saves an
unnecessary parallel trip.
Drive more efficiently. You can save fuel (and reduce
your emissions) just by keeping your speed steady.
Here’s
a good guide if you want to learn more.
The case for saving up for an e-bike
There’s no way around it: E-bikes are pricy. “An e-bike is going to be a
big purchase — nowhere near as much as a car, but still, it’s a major
purchase,” Sledge said. Even with incentive programs (more on that
below), you’re likely to spend more than $1,000 out of pocket.
It is tempting to look for a bargain. But Dean stressed that
manufacturers and bulk retailers are “sacrificing a lot” in terms of
quality and service to make a profit at lower price points. As a rule,
“If you’re spending less than $1,000 on any bike, it’s landfill,” he
said. “And that waste is toxic — odds are, it isn’t going to be recycled
properly.”
Gordon suggested that if you’re concerned about how often you’ll use an
e-bike, it makes sense to get “a cheap regular bike” initially. “Then
you can figure out if this is something you want to do in the long term,
and after a few weeks, or a month, or a year, you can go, ‘Okay, I’m
ready for the $1,000, $2,000, $5,000 bicycle.’”
Perspective is important, too. Yes, e-bikes are expensive — if you
compare them to regular bikes. “If you compare them to cars, they’re a
bargain,” Gordon said. “E-bikes are a replacement tool; they’re not an
upgrade from other bikes. So if you’re a family with two cars and are
going down to one, getting a $2,500 or even $5,000 e-bike is a relative
bargain.” Additionally, many retailers — including The eBike Store in
Portland, Oregon, where Dean works — offer installment plans to help
make the purchase more manageable.
What about conversion kits?
Conversion kits are a popular way to convert an analog bike you already
own into an e-bike by attaching a motor to
the
front hub, rear hub, or mid-drive. Many of these kits can be found
cheaply on websites like Amazon, though The Washington Post
warns
that it is still a “very Wild West market” and to only buy batteries
from reputable e-bike battery brands (low-quality batteries
are
more likely to start fires). While converting to an e-bike might be
a good option for you if you want to dip a toe in the e-bike water,
you’ll still need to spend several hundred dollars to get a kit that
gives you the same oomph as an actual e-bike. That
said, whatever option gets you on a bike is the best one, and if you’re
converter-kit curious,
here’s
a good guide for learning where to start.
A reminder
We do not live in Northern Europe. Plan accordingly.
Northern Europe is the global epicenter of bike commuting, and as such,
much of the cycling and e-biking world caters to, or is based out of,
flat countries like the Netherlands, Denmark, and Belgium. But “the
kinds of [analog] bikes that make sense in Northern Europe are a little
bit different than the kind of bike that makes sense if you live in New
York City, for example,” Sledge said.
Europeans tend to ride “commuter bicycles that are pretty heavy and
really comfortable,” but that will be “really hard for you to go over a
major bridge in a major city” or ride on the hills characteristic of
places like Seattle, Portland, San Francisco, Boston, or New York
without pedal assist, Sledge said. If you’re an American, “a road bike
is probably going to make a lot more sense for you, and you might not
get pointed in that direction at first.”
Where to buy an e-bike
“Buying a bike at a brick-and-mortar store from competent, kind people
who love their job — customers are going to have a fantastic
experience,” Dean told me. “They’re going to get a great taste for the
bike, which means they’ll be riding it a lot. We’re not in the business
of selling bikes that sit and rot in someone’s garage.”
It is especially important to go to a store with e-bike specialists on
staff (rather than a bulk retailer like Costco — or worse, anything
online) because the mechanics will have checked the bike over and
adjusted the safety points so it’s ready to go. “You’re going to get
educated and get a strong appreciation of the beautiful tool that you
are buying, and learn how to operate it and make it last,” Dean added.
Most importantly, though, ensure you take the bike for a test ride
before handing over your credit card. Any retailer worth its salt will
offer this as an option; the best retailers will take you on a guided
test ride, where they’ll teach you how to use the e-bike you’re trying
out. But the bottom line is, “Don’t buy a bike that you haven’t ridden,”
Dean said. “Ride the bike before you buy it; that’s in all-caps with
smiley faces and exclamation points. Don’t buy the bike if you can’t
ride it first.”
How to buy an e-bike
I asked Dean how a customer can come in prepared to buy an e-bike. Here
were his top green flags.
Be ready to answer, “What kind of experience do you want?”
The e-bike specialist will want to know the geography you
anticipate riding through, how far you expect to be riding per day, if
you will be hauling cargo, or if you just want an e-bike for fun weekend
outings.
Don’t come in with your heart set on one specific bike.
Dean said it’s common for customers to come in with
preconceived notions about the sort of e-bike they want to buy. A good
e-bike specialist, though, will be your advocate — and let you know if
the bike you’re fixated on will actually meet your
needs.
Ask a lot of questions. This is a big purchase! You
want to ensure you’re getting the bike you want – and
understand how it works before you walk out the door.
Find out if the store offers free adjustments. Both REI
and The eBike Store have continued support for their customers within
the first year of the purchase. Buy from a retailer that is invested in
your success.
Buy the bike that makes you happy. At the end of the
day, “You should buy whatever puts a dumb, happy smile on your face,”
Dean said. “New Bike Day is like Christmas without the emotional
baggage.”
HEATMAP RECOMMENDS
“Buy the bike that’s going to put the biggest, dumbest
smile on your face.”
If you want a bike for a long commute, look at the Specialized Como or
one of the REI Co-op Cycles-brand models.
Dean said he points riders looking to log miles to the Specialized Como.
“When you’re commuting long miles, you want something comfortable,
something that’s reliable, something that has a strong enough motor that
will get you where you’re going and a big-enough battery that you’re not
going to sweat it,” he said. The Specialized Como is also an excellent
choice for people who want to “show up to work not sweaty” but maybe get
a little bit more of a workout on the way home.
If you prefer commuting on a traditional bike, Lau suggested REI’s ADV
1.1, a road touring bike, or the CTY 1.1 bike, a less-expensive hybrid
built for logging longer distances and enduring the daily wear-and-tear
of a commute. His e-bike pick for commuters is the CTY e2.2, a popular,
well-reviewed, and accessible commuter bike
specifically
marketed to “replace car trips.”
If you want an e-bike to haul the kids, look at a bike from Tern.
Dean loves to recommend Tern bikes to people who want to make trips with
their kids. “They’ve been doing this for a long time, they have tons of
great accessories, and they use Bosch power systems,” he said — all
points in the bike’s favor. That customizability and reliability make it
a good fit for families who want to be able to tailor the bike to their
needs and price point while also not having to worry about it breaking
down in the middle of a toddler’s meltdown.
But there is one other primary reason why Dean points parents to Tern.
“All of their bikes are rider first, cargo behind” — versus bucket bikes
that put the cargo
in
front of the rider. While the latter design is also popular, it
also means that if you’re trying to squeak out into traffic, you’re
nosing your most precious cargo ahead of you, into potential harm’s way.
If you want an e-bike that can handle your big Trader Joe’s runs, look
at the Cannondale Cargowagen or the folding bikes from Tern.
Lau offered three options for e-bikes that won’t make you miss the trunk
of your car, starting with the Cannondale Cargowagen, which can lug up
to 440 pounds — that is a lot of Chili & Lime
Flavored Rolled Corn Tortilla Chips. Its range isn’t quite as good as
some other bikes on the market — the battery is 545 watt-hours — so it’s
probably a better fit for people who live in higher-density areas or
near their preferred market. (You can always buy a second battery if you
want a little more range.) The Cargowagen is also a class 3 bike,
meaning you won’t have to worry about the ice cream melting before you
can get home.
Like Dean, Lau loves to recommend Tern bikes for handling heavy loads,
especially the Tern GSD S00, which conveniently folds up so it can even
be stored in an apartment or transported in an elevator while still
being compatible with Tern’s line of cargo-carrying products — but at
almost $6,000 before add-ons, it’ll likely be out of many first-time
e-bikers’ budgets. Tern’s Vektron S10 is a less expensive option and
still has the power to handle hilly roads with six Trader Joe’s bags in
tow. (Note that both Terns are class 1 bikes, meaning the pedal assist
tops out at 20 miles per hour.)
If you want an e-bike but live in a walk-up, check out bikes from
Specialized.
“Lightweight e-bikes are out there,” Dean said, and can be had — for the
right amount of money. “They’re usually going to start around $3,500 to
$4,000 and then go up from there,” he told me, pointing to Specialized
as one of his favorite lightweight brands.
Keep in mind that you may not need a lightweight
e-bike. “No one has ever come in and said, ‘I want a heavy bike,’” Dean
pointed out. Electric motors are, by necessity, heavy, so getting a
lighter bike can mean sacrificing half the motor and battery. There are
workarounds: “If you have stairs to go up, almost all of these bikes
have a walk assist mode,” which gently turns the tires so you’re not
fighting gravity on your own, Dean told me. Likewise, if you’re trying
to load your bike onto a car rack, “you don’t have to Hulk it up there;
you can be a little smarter about your efforts by picking up the front
wheel and putting it in the rack behind your car. Then pick up the back
wheel.” If you’re really struggling with your bike,
you can always pop off the battery — one of the heavier components — and
carry it separately.
If you want a bike or an e-bike but need to keep the price down, look at
the REI Co-op CTY e2.1, or bikes from Gazelle, Medeo, or Electra
Country.
The best new commuter bike you can get away with is the CTY 1.1, the
analog bike Lau recommended above, but for an e-bike option, he points
customers to the Co-op CTY e2.1, an easy, accessible, no-frills class 1
bike that won’t run you more than $2,000. It might be a little light on
features for a serious urban commuter, though.
Dean told me that the Gazelle Medeo and some of the bikes from Electra
Country will have price points that could be more acceptable to
customers on a budget. Gazelle uses the reliable Bosch power system, and
the Medeo is “really good” and comes in “multiple versions.” (I
found
one for less than $2,000). Electra Country is a subsidiary of
Trek and is a “one-size-fits-all, beach cruiser-looking bike” that comes
in
super
fun colors.
Other essentials you’ll want to consider
Full-finger gloves. “I wear them year-round,” Dean told
me. He recommends the full-finger option because, in the unfortunate
incident that your chain comes loose, you can pop it back on without
getting your hands dirty. Dean especially likes
Specialized’s
gel gloves for extra hand protection.
Redshift’s
Arclight Pedals. Dean told me these
are the #1 safety items he sells at The eBike Store. “While most e-bikes
have a light in the front and a light in the back, they don’t have any
on the side,” he told me. “And more often than not, you’re hit from the
side or someone turning into you. Since the lights are on these pedals,
and the pedals are moving, people see it and subconsciously go, ‘Oh,
that’s a human,’ versus just a tail light, which people go, ‘Oh, that’s
a vehicle.’”
A rain jacket. “My favorite piece of cycling gear is my
Cleverhood
rain cape because there’s a saying that goes, There’s no
such thing as bad weather for cycling, only bad gear,” Gordon told me.
A good lock. Think of buying a lock for your bike like
it’s the zombie apocalypse, or a bear is chasing you, Dean said: “You
don’t have to be the fastest, but don’t be the
slowest.” Get a lock that will make a potential thief look for an easier
mark. (Also, don’t lock your bike to something easy to saw through, like
a tree or a stop sign.)
A bike fitting. It might sound expensive — a bike
fitting will run you about $150 to $200 — but Dean swears it’s worth
every penny. You spend a lot of time on your bike, so why not put in the
money to get it perfectly adjusted to fit your specific body, from the
saddle being moved to just the right place to making sure the controls
are all where they need to be? Dean likened the experience to the
difference between going to Nordstrom Rack and buying a good enough suit
and having a suit custom-made for you.
A commuter backpack. You don’t necessarily need a
special backpack for bike commuting, but you might find that carrying a
load in a traditional backpack will throw off your balance and get your
back sweaty. While it’s better to let the bike do the work whenever
possible (look for baskets mounted to the front frame
of the bike, not the handlebars), Lau also suggested the
CamelBak
M.U.L.E. Commute 22 pack, the
Ortlieb
Velocity PS pack, and the
Osprey
Radial bike pack as great options for commuters.
A helmet. Helmet philosophies differ. Gordon told me a
$25 helmet will protect you as well as a $200 helmet will. Dean,
however, said you shouldn’t go too cheap: “No matter
what you pay for a bicycle helmet, it’s going to be less expensive than
an ambulance ride.” Lau specifically suggested the
Bontrager
Charge WaveCel ($150), the
Lazer
CityZen KinetiCore ($60), and the
Smith
Express MIPS ($110), or “multi-directional impact
protection system,” a helmet style that includes an internal layer
intended
to rotate slightly in the case of impact, which is thought to
prevent brain injuries. Whatever style you choose, remember that helmets
can age out. “Dig your fingernail into the foam of your helmet to see if
it’s safe,” said Dean. “If it’s not squishy — if it’s crunchy — throw it
away.”
Be safe
Congratulations! You’re the proud owner of a bike or an e-bike (or
skateboard or e-scooter or a really good pair of walking shoes). What
happens now?
While the benefits of riding a bike (or any other form of active
transportation) still outweigh the risks, cars
are
getting bigger, their blindspots are getting larger, and
pedestrian
and
cyclist
deaths nationwide are at a 40-year high. Even
electric
vehicles might be a small part of the problem since they’re so
much heavier than regular cars — and that much more dangerous if you get
hit.
I asked Sledge how newly carless commuters could become better
pedestrians, and she quickly corrected me. “There is no such thing as
being a good pedestrian,” she said. “So often, in the United States,
when we have groups of people that are consistently harmed by other
groups of people, we’re like, ‘How can the victims be better?’ And the
real answer is, ‘How can we create systems and designs that protect
those people?’”
We’ll get into that. But the bottom line is: be safe when you’re out on
the road. Learn
how
to navigate intersections safely, and don’t take unnecessary
risks. Especially if you’re on an e-bike, “You’re
traveling faster than most cars are expecting you to,” Dean said. “To
remember that, imagine you are not only invisible, but they’re all
trying to kill you.”
Become a transit advocate
“Riding a bike is a really good entry for a lot of people into larger
political conversations about climate, the design of their cities or
towns, and a host of other issues,” Gordon told me. It might only be a
short amount of time before you start to wonder why there aren’t more
protected bike lanes in your town or city, or why mass transit isn’t
reaching your neighborhood or destination, or why lousy
road
design is making your commute more dangerous than it should be.
There’s some good news, though: There has never been a better time to
become a transit advocate. “It could be as small as your block, or your
neighborhood, or your city, but there are tons of groups all over the
country that focus on working to make them safer and better for the
people in them,” Sledge said.
One of the best places to start is by making your voice and your values
heard. As Sledge reminded me, car companies
already
have — and continue to spend money and time lobbying policies
that are better for drivers (and their bottom lines) than others on the
road. But where to begin? “First, I would look for any kind of
organization in your community, your neighborhood, or your city that
focuses on safe streets or fighting climate change, and see if you can
get involved with them,” Sledge said. “And if you don’t have that kind
of organization, start to go to your city council meetings, making your
voice heard with your local representatives — those kinds of things
really make a difference.”
Another great resource is Transportation for America’s
Transit
Advocate Guide, which takes you step-by-step through building a
movement in your community. Transportation Alternatives also
hosts
occasional activist trainings to help you learn how to organize
successful campaigns in your neighborhood.
Don’t beat yourself up if you still do a lot of driving!
Maybe you bought an e-bike or a monthly metro pass … but you’ve been
unable to quit your car the way you thought you would. That’s okay! This
is not an all-or-nothing activity. “Don’t feel guilty
if you’re still driving,” Gordon stressed. Remember that “you’re
operating within a system that is built for you to drive, so starting
small is really good.” Every fit and start of progress helps.
Remember also that better, low- and zero-emissions-friendly
infrastructure and a pedestrian-first culture aren’t going to be built
overnight. Even the most hard-core among us still need to use cars
occasionally. Just “reimagining how we’re going to truly allocate our
public resources — our public dollars, our public services — to serve
everyone, and radically rethinking how to do that, is so important,”
Sledge said.
Become someone else’s bike geek
I will leave you with one last instruction for ditching your car. When
you discover the bike that lets you “follow your joy, follow your
bliss,” and puts a “smile on your face” — as Dean likes to say — don’t
keep it to yourself.
Someone else in your community is beginning to think about ditching
their car, too. It’s your turn now. Go forth. Become
someone else’s enthusiastic bike geek.
“The only thing better for the climate than buying an EV over a
gasoline-powered car is buying no car at all,” the climate scientist
Rob
Jackson has written. But for many Americans, not having a car
at all is the stuff of logistical and cultural
nightmares. The average person living in the U.S. covers
more
than 1,000 miles per month in their vehicle, and
nearly
45% of people don’t even have the option of opting for public
transportation. Ditching your car? You might as well
ask people to give up their cell phones.
But across the country, transportation advocates and e-bike warriors are
looking for solutions to go, if not entirely car-less,
then at least car-light. Heatmap has put together a comprehensive guide
to help you make a decision that best fits your lifestyle, whether
that’s becoming a superpedestrian, a committed e-bike user, or just
trying to replace a couple of short-haul drives a week.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Doug Gordon is the cohost of
“The
War on Cars,” a podcast about the fight against car culture. He
is also a writer, TV producer, and safe streets advocate, and he advises
nonprofits and mobility companies on communications strategies to
promote better streets and public infrastructure through his
Brooklyn
Spoke Media consulting business.
Alexa Sledge is the director of
communications at
Transportation
Alternatives, a nonprofit organization that has worked to
promote non-polluting, safe, and quiet travel in New York City since
1973.
Bryan Deanis the
sales manager at
The
eBike Store in Portland, Oregon, which opened in 2008 as the
city’s first e-bike-only retailer. He’s spent over six years helping
customers pick out their perfect bikes and is also the creator of the
#eBikeAnywhere hashtag.
Kevin Lau is a product specialist at
REI
with more than 20 years of experience. He is based out of Marlton, New
Jersey.
Active transportation or active mobility
refers to human-powered getting-around — such as walking, using
a bicycle, e-bike, skateboard,
kick
scooter, or electric kick scooter — that reduces the reliance on
cars. Forms of active mobility are often used for
first-mile or last-mile connectivity
in conjunction with public transportation systems (that is, for the
first and last leg of a trip that connects a person with their transit
stop and their starting point or destination).
E-bikes are bicycles with small electric motors that
can assist in pedaling, making them easier to ride. They come in three
classes, each of which has its own optimal use case and standard
features:
Which class is right for you?
Class 1: Pedal assist only
Feels like: A little bit of tailwind
Max speed: Pedal assist tops out at 19.5 mph
Restrictions: Allowed on any trail or path where
traditional “analog” bikes are allowed*
Best for: Beginners, people on a budget, or people who
want the flexibility to ride their e-bike anywhere
Class 2: Pedal assist and throttle
Feels like: A medium amount of tailwind
Max speed: Pedal assist and throttle top out at 19.5
mph
Restrictions: Allowed on most paths and trails where
traditional bikes are allowed (some restrictions may apply)
Best for: People who want to ride long distances
without having to pedal, or who live in a hilly area
Class 3: Pedal assist or pedal assist and
throttle
Feels like: “A hurricane vibe,” according to Dean
Max speed: Pedal assist tops out at 27.5 mph**, or at
19.5 mph with the throttle
Restrictions: Often restricted on bike paths and
multi-use pedestrian trails; riders are required to wear helmets; the
bike must have a speedometer; and age restrictions may apply
Best for: People who plan to use their bike to replace
car commutes or to run bigger errands
*Alaska and Rhode Island classify e-bikes as motor vehicles and
may have additional restrictions.
**If 28 miles per hour sounds utterly terrifying to you, don’t
worry. “The majority of the class 3 bikes that I sell will probably
never go faster than 15 miles an hour because that’s how the customer
wants to ride it,” Dean explained. “Class 3 bikes will not instantly go
28 miles per hour.”
Another thing to look for when shopping for an e-bike is if it has a
hub-drive or a mid-drive motor. As you
can probably guess, a hub-drive motor “is built into the hub of one of
the wheels,” while a mid-drive motor “is built into the frame near the
cranks,” Lau told me. “Usually, a hub drive system will be less
expensive than a mid-drive system, but a mid-drive system is considered
to ride a bit smoother and has a more balanced center of gravity,” he
said.
E-bike battery capacity is measured in watt hours —
quite literally, how many watts can be delivered in an hour. The usual
range for e-bike batteries is between 300 watt hours and 1,000 watt
hours. Many factors contribute to how fast you drain the battery, from
the surface you’re riding on to its grade to the speed of pedal assist.
But generally speaking,
you
can expect to use about 10 to 20 watt hours per mile. (Want to
have some fun? Mess around with
Bosch’s
e-bike range calculator to get a sense of how far you can go and
with what effort.)
In addition to e-bikes, you might also see references to
electric motorcycles, Vespas, or
mopeds. Most of these fall under the class of
motorscooters, which are
differentiated from e-bikes in that they don’t have pedals (they are
also different from e-scooters like
Lime,
which are modeled on human-powered
kick
scooters). Also unlike e-bikes, motor scooters require a
driver’s license and must be registered as a motor vehicle. An electric
motorcycle will require a motorcycle license if it goes over 30 mph.
Scooters are also much heavier than e-bikes, don’t have removable
batteries, and may run on gasoline,
canceling
out some of the environmental and health advantages.
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
I live in the suburbs — is it even possible to go car-less?
Only
8%
of U.S. households currently get by without owning a car, and
less
than 1% of Americans commute to work by bike. The U.S. is so
driving-centric that we’re home to one-fifth of all the cars on
the planet despite having less than 5% of the global
population.Eleven states have
more
registered vehicles than people.
But just because driving has always been your default doesn’t mean it
makes the most sense for the kind of travel you do — even if you live
somewhere without great public transportation. Over half of all trips
Americans make in a car are for a distance of
less
than three miles — perfect to convert into a bike ride.
“I think of mobility like a Swiss army knife: You have to
use the right tool for the job,” Gordon told me. “If I just need to pick
up a carton of milk, does it make sense to do that in a 6,000-pound
metal box on wheels that is powered by dinosaur juice? Not so
much.”
On average, commuting by bike in the U.S. saves an estimated $2,500 per
year, and it
has
been found to have massive benefits for one’s mental health,
cardiovascular health, and even productivity at work. Yes,
even
e-bikes!
“If you go to places like Copenhagen or Amsterdam — places where there
are huge numbers of cyclists — and you poll those people, concern for
the environment barely cracks the top five reasons why they cycle,”
Gordon said. “The reasons why people cycle in Denmark and the
Netherlands are because it’s safe and convenient, and it’s often the
fastest and cheapest way to get where they’re going.”
If we’re just talking about short trips, will it really make a
difference?
Transportation is
the
most significant contributor to climate change in the United
States, with nearly 60% of the sector’s greenhouse gas emissions coming
from cars alone (another 23% comes from trucks). Replacing a quarter of
your total driving with walking, biking, or e-biking could save 1.3 tons
of greenhouse gas emissions per year, according to our friends at
WattTime — about the same as forgoing burning 1,433 pounds of coal or
three barrels of oil. If every American drove even a mere 10% less per
year, it’d be like taking
28
coal-fired power plants offline.
You can still make a significant impact without ditching your car, in
other words: You simply have to drive less. And the
upsides are enormous. More Americans
die
of car pollution than in car accidents every year. Additionally,
commuting by bike or by foot makes us healthier and happier.
It also helps us realize what our community priorities should be.
“Individual action is not always what we need to focus on,” Gordon said.
“We need to focus on institutional change. But my philosophy is that
lots of individual action actually adds up to the political will to get
the institutional change you need.”
Is it really worth the risk of crashing — or sweating?
A survey of studies from five countries (including the U.S.) found that
the
main barriers to cycling were low perceived safety, bad weather,
lack of cycling infrastructure (including “shower facilities” at one’s
destination), and distance and perceived effort.
Safety is a valid concern. Riding a bike is about 500 times more likely
to be fatal than riding a bus, according to
a
2007 study; even with
the
success of programs like New York’s Vision Zero, collisions with
cars remain a real danger for people on bikes. The car-related pollution
inhaled while cycling can also shorten a cyclist’s life by an estimated
one to 40 days. But the benefits of cycling on average far outweigh the
risks: Riding a bike adds an estimated three to 14
months to your life, even when the possibilities of collisions and air
pollution
are
considered. The health benefits are so significant that
a
separate study by Swedish researchers found that cyclists had a
47% lower risk of early death and a 10% lower risk of hospitalization
compared to car and train commuters.
What about concerns about shower availability and the “distance and
perceived effort” of riding a bike? That’s where the advantages of an
e-bike’s pedal assist come into play. “E-bikes are great at blasting
through any concerns you have about sweat,” Gordon told me. Even in hot
weather or on difficult terrain, pedal assist can keep you looking fresh
when you arrive at the office.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
How much driving can you realistically replace with other modes of
transportation?
The first step to driving less is thinking about when and where you can
replace specific trips with walking, cycling, or public transportation
instead. Lau told me his general rule of thumb is that if a trip is less
than a mile and he can safely walk (i.e. if there are sidewalks or safe
paths), then he’ll walk. “If it’s more than that, I’ll take the bike if
I have a place to lock it or can bring it into my workplace or store,”
he said. For trips where he might need some extra assistance — that are
farther, longer, hillier, or will require carrying “more cargo without
working as hard,” he’ll opt for an e-bike instead.
You can do a lot of this reconnaissance from your couch. Apple Maps and
Google
Maps can take a lot of the guesswork out of finding the best
bike paths to and from your house and the other places you frequent,
including informing you ahead of time if the route will require riding
on major or minor roads or ones with protected bike lanes. Google and
Apple Maps can also give you real-time information about public
transportation options in your area (as well as allow you to plan for
trips when service might be reduced, like late nights or weekends), and
many transit systems now have their own apps to make tracking delays or
alternative service simpler.
It’s okay to take it slow
There’s no need to go overboard here, at least not to start! “The thing
to think about is not ‘Can I go completely car-free?’ but ‘What trips
could I replace?’” Gordon told me. It’s like Meatless Mondays: “You
don’t have to become a complete vegan overnight, but you could replace
one day’s worth of meals a week. It’s the same with cycling: Maybe you
could ride to your kid’s soccer game or do one little grocery trip a
week to the nearest market and do it by bike instead of by car. See how
that feels.”
What’s the elevation like in your area?
It’s funny how you don’t realize where the long, slow inclines are in
your neighborhood until you’re huffing up them on a bike. Google Maps
and Apple Maps can show you what elevation to expect on a walking or
cycling route. If you live in a hillier area, an e-bike might be better
than a traditional bike since it can take some of the ouch out
of the ups.
What’s the weather like in your area?
“Something really, really important that people don’t always think about
is gear,” Sledge told me. “It doesn’t necessarily have to be expensive,
but if you can only ride your bike when it’s 80 degrees and sunny,
that’s not the best scenario.”
If you live somewhere where it gets hot, rainy, snowy, windy, or the
weather can change unexpectedly, think ahead of time about the sort of
gear you’d need to make cycling or walking more comfortable. (We have a
checklist of ideas below.)
What programs exist in your area that you can use to your advantage?
California, Colorado, Connecticut, Hawaii, Massachusetts, New York,
Oklahoma, and Vermont all have statewide tax credits or rebates to
encourage e-bike adoption.
Live somewhere that isn’t on that list? Here is
a
super handy tracker from the Transportation Research and
Education Center at Portland State University of more than 100 counties,
cities, and municipalities that offer e-bike incentive programs. Also,
look for e-bike lending libraries that
might
be in your area.
If you’re having trouble learning about the programs available to you,
head into a brick-and-mortar e-bike shop in your area or connect with
your local transportation advocacy group — they’ll know what programs
you can take advantage of and be happy to point you in the right
direction.
Grab a coffee with the bike geek in your life
Do you know what bike enthusiasts love more than anything? Creating new
bike enthusiasts. If you’re still feeling intimidated by the idea of
getting on a bike — or even if you’re not — “find a friend who’s already
doing it,” Gordon suggested. Bike people are “an evangelical bunch, and
if you tell a friend who you know is into biking or bike commutes
regularly that ‘Hey, I’m thinking of doing it,’ I can guarantee that
person will be more than happy to hold your hand and help you through
your first ride.”
Taking off the training wheels
Many people are understandably scared of riding a bike alongside cars.
If you want to build up a little more confidence before hitting the
road, the Global Cycling Network has a good
intro
to urban cycling video that covers some of the basics about
holding your place in the lane, signaling, and avoiding dangerous
blindspots.
You can also build up confidence on bike paths and pedestrian trails
where you don’t have to contend with cars or look to join group rides in
your area. Meet-ups in particular are a great place to make bike friends
and will help you get comfortable navigating the streets in your area.
(In Portland, for example, there are
hundreds
of such events to choose from.)
There are dozens of emissions-free or emissions-light transportation
options, from using your own two feet to digging the old beater bicycle
out of your garage to going full
Steve
Wozniak with a
Segway.
The most important thing is to something you’ll actually use.
That said — “What’s really going to be the best option for most
Americans is an e-bike,” Sledge told me. “That’s a true car replacement
when so often a [traditional] bike can’t be a true, true,
true car replacement.” E-bikes are simply more
practical and comfortable for longer rides or daily commutes, and if you
need to haul things like groceries or children, they can’t be beaten.
I’ve looked at all my options and don’t think I can
drive any less than I already do. What can I do
instead?
Get
an electric vehicle. For some people, car trips will be
unavoidable — and in that case, replacing gas-powered vehicle miles with
battery-electric powered vehicle miles is the next best thing. Here’s
Heatmap’s guide to buying an EV for more on that.
Carpool. It’s absurd how many car trips in the U.S. are
made with only one person in the vehicle. Many schools and businesses
will help organize carpools, and there are an increasing number of
websites dedicated to helping connect commuters. Every carpool saves an
unnecessary parallel trip.
Drive more efficiently. You can save fuel (and reduce
your emissions) just by keeping your speed steady.
Here’s
a good guide if you want to learn more.
The case for saving up for an e-bike
There’s no way around it: E-bikes are pricy. “An e-bike is going to be a
big purchase — nowhere near as much as a car, but still, it’s a major
purchase,” Sledge said. Even with incentive programs (more on that
below), you’re likely to spend more than $1,000 out of pocket.
It is tempting to look for a bargain. But Dean stressed that
manufacturers and bulk retailers are “sacrificing a lot” in terms of
quality and service to make a profit at lower price points. As a rule,
“If you’re spending less than $1,000 on any bike, it’s landfill,” he
said. “And that waste is toxic — odds are, it isn’t going to be recycled
properly.”
Gordon suggested that if you’re concerned about how often you’ll use an
e-bike, it makes sense to get “a cheap regular bike” initially. “Then
you can figure out if this is something you want to do in the long term,
and after a few weeks, or a month, or a year, you can go, ‘Okay, I’m
ready for the $1,000, $2,000, $5,000 bicycle.’”
Perspective is important, too. Yes, e-bikes are expensive — if you
compare them to regular bikes. “If you compare them to cars, they’re a
bargain,” Gordon said. “E-bikes are a replacement tool; they’re not an
upgrade from other bikes. So if you’re a family with two cars and are
going down to one, getting a $2,500 or even $5,000 e-bike is a relative
bargain.” Additionally, many retailers — including The eBike Store in
Portland, Oregon, where Dean works — offer installment plans to help
make the purchase more manageable.
What about conversion kits?
Conversion kits are a popular way to convert an analog bike you already
own into an e-bike by attaching a motor to
the
front hub, rear hub, or mid-drive. Many of these kits can be found
cheaply on websites like Amazon, though The Washington Post
warns
that it is still a “very Wild West market” and to only buy batteries
from reputable e-bike battery brands (low-quality batteries
are
more likely to start fires). While converting to an e-bike might be
a good option for you if you want to dip a toe in the e-bike water,
you’ll still need to spend several hundred dollars to get a kit that
gives you the same oomph as an actual e-bike. That
said, whatever option gets you on a bike is the best one, and if you’re
converter-kit curious,
here’s
a good guide for learning where to start.
A reminder
We do not live in Northern Europe. Plan accordingly.
Northern Europe is the global epicenter of bike commuting, and as such,
much of the cycling and e-biking world caters to, or is based out of,
flat countries like the Netherlands, Denmark, and Belgium. But “the
kinds of [analog] bikes that make sense in Northern Europe are a little
bit different than the kind of bike that makes sense if you live in New
York City, for example,” Sledge said.
Europeans tend to ride “commuter bicycles that are pretty heavy and
really comfortable,” but that will be “really hard for you to go over a
major bridge in a major city” or ride on the hills characteristic of
places like Seattle, Portland, San Francisco, Boston, or New York
without pedal assist, Sledge said. If you’re an American, “a road bike
is probably going to make a lot more sense for you, and you might not
get pointed in that direction at first.”
Where to buy an e-bike
“Buying a bike at a brick-and-mortar store from competent, kind people
who love their job — customers are going to have a fantastic
experience,” Dean told me. “They’re going to get a great taste for the
bike, which means they’ll be riding it a lot. We’re not in the business
of selling bikes that sit and rot in someone’s garage.”
It is especially important to go to a store with e-bike specialists on
staff (rather than a bulk retailer like Costco — or worse, anything
online) because the mechanics will have checked the bike over and
adjusted the safety points so it’s ready to go. “You’re going to get
educated and get a strong appreciation of the beautiful tool that you
are buying, and learn how to operate it and make it last,” Dean added.
Most importantly, though, ensure you take the bike for a test ride
before handing over your credit card. Any retailer worth its salt will
offer this as an option; the best retailers will take you on a guided
test ride, where they’ll teach you how to use the e-bike you’re trying
out. But the bottom line is, “Don’t buy a bike that you haven’t ridden,”
Dean said. “Ride the bike before you buy it; that’s in all-caps with
smiley faces and exclamation points. Don’t buy the bike if you can’t
ride it first.”
How to buy an e-bike
I asked Dean how a customer can come in prepared to buy an e-bike. Here
were his top green flags.
Be ready to answer, “What kind of experience do you want?”
The e-bike specialist will want to know the geography you
anticipate riding through, how far you expect to be riding per day, if
you will be hauling cargo, or if you just want an e-bike for fun weekend
outings.
Don’t come in with your heart set on one specific bike.
Dean said it’s common for customers to come in with
preconceived notions about the sort of e-bike they want to buy. A good
e-bike specialist, though, will be your advocate — and let you know if
the bike you’re fixated on will actually meet your
needs.
Ask a lot of questions. This is a big purchase! You
want to ensure you’re getting the bike you want – and
understand how it works before you walk out the door.
Find out if the store offers free adjustments. Both REI
and The eBike Store have continued support for their customers within
the first year of the purchase. Buy from a retailer that is invested in
your success.
Buy the bike that makes you happy. At the end of the
day, “You should buy whatever puts a dumb, happy smile on your face,”
Dean said. “New Bike Day is like Christmas without the emotional
baggage.”
HEATMAP RECOMMENDS
“Buy the bike that’s going to put the biggest, dumbest
smile on your face.”
If you want a bike for a long commute, look at the Specialized Como or
one of the REI Co-op Cycles-brand models.
Dean said he points riders looking to log miles to the Specialized Como.
“When you’re commuting long miles, you want something comfortable,
something that’s reliable, something that has a strong enough motor that
will get you where you’re going and a big-enough battery that you’re not
going to sweat it,” he said. The Specialized Como is also an excellent
choice for people who want to “show up to work not sweaty” but maybe get
a little bit more of a workout on the way home.
If you prefer commuting on a traditional bike, Lau suggested REI’s ADV
1.1, a road touring bike, or the CTY 1.1 bike, a less-expensive hybrid
built for logging longer distances and enduring the daily wear-and-tear
of a commute. His e-bike pick for commuters is the CTY e2.2, a popular,
well-reviewed, and accessible commuter bike
specifically
marketed to “replace car trips.”
If you want an e-bike to haul the kids, look at a bike from Tern.
Dean loves to recommend Tern bikes to people who want to make trips with
their kids. “They’ve been doing this for a long time, they have tons of
great accessories, and they use Bosch power systems,” he said — all
points in the bike’s favor. That customizability and reliability make it
a good fit for families who want to be able to tailor the bike to their
needs and price point while also not having to worry about it breaking
down in the middle of a toddler’s meltdown.
But there is one other primary reason why Dean points parents to Tern.
“All of their bikes are rider first, cargo behind” — versus bucket bikes
that put the cargo
in
front of the rider. While the latter design is also popular, it
also means that if you’re trying to squeak out into traffic, you’re
nosing your most precious cargo ahead of you, into potential harm’s way.
If you want an e-bike that can handle your big Trader Joe’s runs, look
at the Cannondale Cargowagen or the folding bikes from Tern.
Lau offered three options for e-bikes that won’t make you miss the trunk
of your car, starting with the Cannondale Cargowagen, which can lug up
to 440 pounds — that is a lot of Chili & Lime
Flavored Rolled Corn Tortilla Chips. Its range isn’t quite as good as
some other bikes on the market — the battery is 545 watt-hours — so it’s
probably a better fit for people who live in higher-density areas or
near their preferred market. (You can always buy a second battery if you
want a little more range.) The Cargowagen is also a class 3 bike,
meaning you won’t have to worry about the ice cream melting before you
can get home.
Like Dean, Lau loves to recommend Tern bikes for handling heavy loads,
especially the Tern GSD S00, which conveniently folds up so it can even
be stored in an apartment or transported in an elevator while still
being compatible with Tern’s line of cargo-carrying products — but at
almost $6,000 before add-ons, it’ll likely be out of many first-time
e-bikers’ budgets. Tern’s Vektron S10 is a less expensive option and
still has the power to handle hilly roads with six Trader Joe’s bags in
tow. (Note that both Terns are class 1 bikes, meaning the pedal assist
tops out at 20 miles per hour.)
If you want an e-bike but live in a walk-up, check out bikes from
Specialized.
“Lightweight e-bikes are out there,” Dean said, and can be had — for the
right amount of money. “They’re usually going to start around $3,500 to
$4,000 and then go up from there,” he told me, pointing to Specialized
as one of his favorite lightweight brands.
Keep in mind that you may not need a lightweight
e-bike. “No one has ever come in and said, ‘I want a heavy bike,’” Dean
pointed out. Electric motors are, by necessity, heavy, so getting a
lighter bike can mean sacrificing half the motor and battery. There are
workarounds: “If you have stairs to go up, almost all of these bikes
have a walk assist mode,” which gently turns the tires so you’re not
fighting gravity on your own, Dean told me. Likewise, if you’re trying
to load your bike onto a car rack, “you don’t have to Hulk it up there;
you can be a little smarter about your efforts by picking up the front
wheel and putting it in the rack behind your car. Then pick up the back
wheel.” If you’re really struggling with your bike,
you can always pop off the battery — one of the heavier components — and
carry it separately.
If you want a bike or an e-bike but need to keep the price down, look at
the REI Co-op CTY e2.1, or bikes from Gazelle, Medeo, or Electra
Country.
The best new commuter bike you can get away with is the CTY 1.1, the
analog bike Lau recommended above, but for an e-bike option, he points
customers to the Co-op CTY e2.1, an easy, accessible, no-frills class 1
bike that won’t run you more than $2,000. It might be a little light on
features for a serious urban commuter, though.
Dean told me that the Gazelle Medeo and some of the bikes from Electra
Country will have price points that could be more acceptable to
customers on a budget. Gazelle uses the reliable Bosch power system, and
the Medeo is “really good” and comes in “multiple versions.” (I
found
one for less than $2,000). Electra Country is a subsidiary of
Trek and is a “one-size-fits-all, beach cruiser-looking bike” that comes
in
super
fun colors.
Other essentials you’ll want to consider
Full-finger gloves. “I wear them year-round,” Dean told
me. He recommends the full-finger option because, in the unfortunate
incident that your chain comes loose, you can pop it back on without
getting your hands dirty. Dean especially likes
Specialized’s
gel gloves for extra hand protection.
Redshift’s
Arclight Pedals. Dean told me these
are the #1 safety items he sells at The eBike Store. “While most e-bikes
have a light in the front and a light in the back, they don’t have any
on the side,” he told me. “And more often than not, you’re hit from the
side or someone turning into you. Since the lights are on these pedals,
and the pedals are moving, people see it and subconsciously go, ‘Oh,
that’s a human,’ versus just a tail light, which people go, ‘Oh, that’s
a vehicle.’”
A rain jacket. “My favorite piece of cycling gear is my
Cleverhood
rain cape because there’s a saying that goes, There’s no
such thing as bad weather for cycling, only bad gear,” Gordon told me.
A good lock. Think of buying a lock for your bike like
it’s the zombie apocalypse, or a bear is chasing you, Dean said: “You
don’t have to be the fastest, but don’t be the
slowest.” Get a lock that will make a potential thief look for an easier
mark. (Also, don’t lock your bike to something easy to saw through, like
a tree or a stop sign.)
A bike fitting. It might sound expensive — a bike
fitting will run you about $150 to $200 — but Dean swears it’s worth
every penny. You spend a lot of time on your bike, so why not put in the
money to get it perfectly adjusted to fit your specific body, from the
saddle being moved to just the right place to making sure the controls
are all where they need to be? Dean likened the experience to the
difference between going to Nordstrom Rack and buying a good enough suit
and having a suit custom-made for you.
A commuter backpack. You don’t necessarily need a
special backpack for bike commuting, but you might find that carrying a
load in a traditional backpack will throw off your balance and get your
back sweaty. While it’s better to let the bike do the work whenever
possible (look for baskets mounted to the front frame
of the bike, not the handlebars), Lau also suggested the
CamelBak
M.U.L.E. Commute 22 pack, the
Ortlieb
Velocity PS pack, and the
Osprey
Radial bike pack as great options for commuters.
A helmet. Helmet philosophies differ. Gordon told me a
$25 helmet will protect you as well as a $200 helmet will. Dean,
however, said you shouldn’t go too cheap: “No matter
what you pay for a bicycle helmet, it’s going to be less expensive than
an ambulance ride.” Lau specifically suggested the
Bontrager
Charge WaveCel ($150), the
Lazer
CityZen KinetiCore ($60), and the
Smith
Express MIPS ($110), or “multi-directional impact
protection system,” a helmet style that includes an internal layer
intended
to rotate slightly in the case of impact, which is thought to
prevent brain injuries. Whatever style you choose, remember that helmets
can age out. “Dig your fingernail into the foam of your helmet to see if
it’s safe,” said Dean. “If it’s not squishy — if it’s crunchy — throw it
away.”
Be safe
Congratulations! You’re the proud owner of a bike or an e-bike (or
skateboard or e-scooter or a really good pair of walking shoes). What
happens now?
While the benefits of riding a bike (or any other form of active
transportation) still outweigh the risks, cars
are
getting bigger, their blindspots are getting larger, and
pedestrian
and
cyclist
deaths nationwide are at a 40-year high. Even
electric
vehicles might be a small part of the problem since they’re so
much heavier than regular cars — and that much more dangerous if you get
hit.
I asked Sledge how newly carless commuters could become better
pedestrians, and she quickly corrected me. “There is no such thing as
being a good pedestrian,” she said. “So often, in the United States,
when we have groups of people that are consistently harmed by other
groups of people, we’re like, ‘How can the victims be better?’ And the
real answer is, ‘How can we create systems and designs that protect
those people?’”
We’ll get into that. But the bottom line is: be safe when you’re out on
the road. Learn
how
to navigate intersections safely, and don’t take unnecessary
risks. Especially if you’re on an e-bike, “You’re
traveling faster than most cars are expecting you to,” Dean said. “To
remember that, imagine you are not only invisible, but they’re all
trying to kill you.”
Become a transit advocate
“Riding a bike is a really good entry for a lot of people into larger
political conversations about climate, the design of their cities or
towns, and a host of other issues,” Gordon told me. It might only be a
short amount of time before you start to wonder why there aren’t more
protected bike lanes in your town or city, or why mass transit isn’t
reaching your neighborhood or destination, or why lousy
road
design is making your commute more dangerous than it should be.
There’s some good news, though: There has never been a better time to
become a transit advocate. “It could be as small as your block, or your
neighborhood, or your city, but there are tons of groups all over the
country that focus on working to make them safer and better for the
people in them,” Sledge said.
One of the best places to start is by making your voice and your values
heard. As Sledge reminded me, car companies
already
have — and continue to spend money and time lobbying policies
that are better for drivers (and their bottom lines) than others on the
road. But where to begin? “First, I would look for any kind of
organization in your community, your neighborhood, or your city that
focuses on safe streets or fighting climate change, and see if you can
get involved with them,” Sledge said. “And if you don’t have that kind
of organization, start to go to your city council meetings, making your
voice heard with your local representatives — those kinds of things
really make a difference.”
Another great resource is Transportation for America’s
Transit
Advocate Guide, which takes you step-by-step through building a
movement in your community. Transportation Alternatives also
hosts
occasional activist trainings to help you learn how to organize
successful campaigns in your neighborhood.
Don’t beat yourself up if you still do a lot of driving!
Maybe you bought an e-bike or a monthly metro pass … but you’ve been
unable to quit your car the way you thought you would. That’s okay! This
is not an all-or-nothing activity. “Don’t feel guilty
if you’re still driving,” Gordon stressed. Remember that “you’re
operating within a system that is built for you to drive, so starting
small is really good.” Every fit and start of progress helps.
Remember also that better, low- and zero-emissions-friendly
infrastructure and a pedestrian-first culture aren’t going to be built
overnight. Even the most hard-core among us still need to use cars
occasionally. Just “reimagining how we’re going to truly allocate our
public resources — our public dollars, our public services — to serve
everyone, and radically rethinking how to do that, is so important,”
Sledge said.
Become someone else’s bike geek
I will leave you with one last instruction for ditching your car. When
you discover the bike that lets you “follow your joy, follow your
bliss,” and puts a “smile on your face” — as Dean likes to say — don’t
keep it to yourself.
Someone else in your community is beginning to think about ditching
their car, too. It’s your turn now. Go forth. Become
someone else’s enthusiastic bike geek.
Let’s get this out of the way: You don’t have to turn vegetarian to make
a meaningful dent in your carbon emissions. You don’t have to start
eating
insects or experiment with
precision-fermented
plant-based proteins. You don’t even have to eat less meat,
necessarily. Just eat less beef — or, if you prefer the idea of “more”
to the idea of “less,” you could even say: Eat more chicken.
Either way, the reason comes down to some of the simplest carbon
accounting we have. Cows are, by far, our most carbon-intensive protein
source. Every kilogram of beef produced in the U.S. emits about 38
kilograms of carbon from cradle to slaughterhouse, according to Gillett.
Compare that to roughly 3.8 kilograms of CO2 per kilogram of chicken,
and even 4.9 kilograms of CO2 per kilogram of pork, and you can start to
see why even such a small change can have a big impact. A chicken needs
to eat just 1.6 kilograms of feed to produce a kilogram of meat.
“1.6 is basically magic, right?” Arthur Gillett, chief research officer
at HowGood, an emissions research and data service for the food sector,
told me. “Why are we messing with crickets?”
Beyond that, though, the picture gets murkier. Because here’s the thing:
Even if you wanted to track every single ounce of carbon related to your
food intake, you couldn’t, at least not with any meaningful degree of
accuracy. Of all the many systems operating in the global economy, the
food system is perhaps the most complex, involving processes we’re still
trying to understand, let alone track.
For example: dirt. Essentially all the food we eat depends, at some
point in its life cycle, on dirt. One reason beef is such a
high-emission product is that it takes a lot of dirt to grow all the
feed a typical cow eats over the course of its life — which runs to the
thousands of pounds (including
byproducts
from other agricultural production) — plus a lot more to grow the cow
itself. Even in the U.S., where cows are mostly finished on feedlots,
livestock occupy
41%
of available farmland, but are raised on just 30% of farms. In
Brazil, the world’s largest exporter of beef, where cows are mostly
grass-fed, cattle graze on somewhere between 189 million and 253 million
acres of what used to be the Amazon rainforest, depending on
whoseestimate
you use.
But back to dirt: Climate scientists still don’t really understand how
it works, from a carbon perspective. How much carbon is stored in the
Earth’s soil? Estimates vary
pretty
widely, biogeochemist Rose Abramoff told me. How much is it
emitting each year? That’s
even
less clear. Does it make a difference whether that soil is
planted with genetically modified soy versus heirloom squash? No idea.
Until seven or eight years ago, it was accepted practice in the
life-cycle analysis world to resolve these uncertainties by assuming
soil-related emissions were stable and therefore marking them at zero,
according to Gillett, “which is incredibly wrong,” he told me. Analyses
are starting to be able to account for those emissions now, he said, but
to be really meaningful, they would have to be recalculated every year.
“So then every LCA, to be worth its salt, has to be a multi-year LCA.
That’s impossible.” Gillett said.
In other words, the science is very much still changing, and you could
drive yourself crazy trying to keep up with it. These days, Gillett is
excited about the potential for regenerative agriculture practices like
no-till farming and co-locating livestock with crops to transform dairy
into one of our most carbon-efficient sources of protein, he told me —
something he never would have expected to say a year or two ago.
Similarly, “Maybe 10 years ago, all of us were talking about food
miles,” i.e. the distance from farm to table, according to Minnie
Ringland, manager of climate and insights at ReFED, a food waste
reduction advocacy group. You may have experienced this in the form of
admonishments to “eat local.” Since then, however, cold storage supply
chains have gotten a lot better, particularly in the Global South, which
means that we’re losing a lot less food to spoilage — compared to the
agricultural process itself, shipping represents a negligible portion of
the emissions related to just about any given product.
It’s also important to remember that not all farming regions are created
equal. California, for instance, is a great place to grow lots of
things; Arizona, less so. “Depending on the geography where the food is
being produced, it can be super intensive in terms of land use change,
if land is being deforested in order to make way for agricultural fields
or for grazing,” Ringland said. Another factor is the use of nitrogen
fertilizer, which is both emissions-intensive to produce and generates
carbon dioxide from its use, the environmental effects of fertilizer
run-off on nearby land and waterways notwithstanding.
That’s not to say there aren’t other important benefits to eating
locally: contributing to your local economy, supporting biodiversity,
encouraging holistic farming practices. The farmers at your weekend
farmers market are a whole lot more likely to be practicing regenerative
techniques and fertilizing with compost instead of industrial chemicals.
But they’re also not going to be there at 7:48 p.m. on any given Tuesday
when you’re midway through cooking a batch of chicken cacciatore and
realize that you forgot the bell peppers.
Speaking of compost, though, here’s a bonus trick to reduce your
food-related carbon emissions: Collecting and composting your food
scraps is good, but wasting less food is even better. The reason why is
pretty obvious: Before it can be composted, food still has to go through
the entire supply chain. And while composting food produces fewer
emissions than landfilling food waste, it’s not an entirely
emissions-free process, and can be more or less carbon-intensive
depending on where and how it’s made. Reducing your food waste requires
a bit more planning, but it will also save you money and send a more
accurate demand signal down the farm-to-grocery-store supply chain.
I could go on and on about things like the relative carbon impact of
plant-based proteins and the emissions reduction potential of
standardizing expiration dates on food labels, but all of that is still
being worked out. If you are fake meat-curious, you
can check out our guide on that
here.
And if you’re already a vegetarian or curious about it for reasons of
health, ethics, etc., that’s great. The most important thing you, as a
consumer, can do to reduce emissions from the food system is hold
companies accountable for their carbon claims, which means not getting
sucked into the stuff that sounds too good to be true. There’s plenty of
delicious food out there that doesn’t take elaborate math to justify
eating.
So to recap: Eat less beef, waste less food. You can make it more
complicated than that if you want, but everything else is gravy.
Let’s get this out of the way: You don’t have to turn vegetarian to make
a meaningful dent in your carbon emissions. You don’t have to start
eating
insects or experiment with
precision-fermented
plant-based proteins. You don’t even have to eat less meat,
necessarily. Just eat less beef — or, if you prefer the idea of “more”
to the idea of “less,” you could even say: Eat more chicken.
Either way, the reason comes down to some of the simplest carbon
accounting we have. Cows are, by far, our most carbon-intensive protein
source. Every kilogram of beef produced in the U.S. emits about 38
kilograms of carbon from cradle to slaughterhouse, according to Gillett.
Compare that to roughly 3.8 kilograms of CO2 per kilogram of chicken,
and even 4.9 kilograms of CO2 per kilogram of pork, and you can start to
see why even such a small change can have a big impact. A chicken needs
to eat just 1.6 kilograms of feed to produce a kilogram of meat.
“1.6 is basically magic, right?” Arthur Gillett, chief research officer
at HowGood, an emissions research and data service for the food sector,
told me. “Why are we messing with crickets?”
Beyond that, though, the picture gets murkier. Because here’s the thing:
Even if you wanted to track every single ounce of carbon related to your
food intake, you couldn’t, at least not with any meaningful degree of
accuracy. Of all the many systems operating in the global economy, the
food system is perhaps the most complex, involving processes we’re still
trying to understand, let alone track.
For example: dirt. Essentially all the food we eat depends, at some
point in its life cycle, on dirt. One reason beef is such a
high-emission product is that it takes a lot of dirt to grow all the
feed a typical cow eats over the course of its life — which runs to the
thousands of pounds (including
byproducts
from other agricultural production) — plus a lot more to grow the cow
itself. Even in the U.S., where cows are mostly finished on feedlots,
livestock occupy
41%
of available farmland, but are raised on just 30% of farms. In
Brazil, the world’s largest exporter of beef, where cows are mostly
grass-fed, cattle graze on somewhere between 189 million and 253 million
acres of what used to be the Amazon rainforest, depending on
whoseestimate
you use.
But back to dirt: Climate scientists still don’t really understand how
it works, from a carbon perspective. How much carbon is stored in the
Earth’s soil? Estimates vary
pretty
widely, biogeochemist Rose Abramoff told me. How much is it
emitting each year? That’s
even
less clear. Does it make a difference whether that soil is
planted with genetically modified soy versus heirloom squash? No idea.
Until seven or eight years ago, it was accepted practice in the
life-cycle analysis world to resolve these uncertainties by assuming
soil-related emissions were stable and therefore marking them at zero,
according to Gillett, “which is incredibly wrong,” he told me. Analyses
are starting to be able to account for those emissions now, he said, but
to be really meaningful, they would have to be recalculated every year.
“So then every LCA, to be worth its salt, has to be a multi-year LCA.
That’s impossible.” Gillett said.
In other words, the science is very much still changing, and you could
drive yourself crazy trying to keep up with it. These days, Gillett is
excited about the potential for regenerative agriculture practices like
no-till farming and co-locating livestock with crops to transform dairy
into one of our most carbon-efficient sources of protein, he told me —
something he never would have expected to say a year or two ago.
Similarly, “Maybe 10 years ago, all of us were talking about food
miles,” i.e. the distance from farm to table, according to Minnie
Ringland, manager of climate and insights at ReFED, a food waste
reduction advocacy group. You may have experienced this in the form of
admonishments to “eat local.” Since then, however, cold storage supply
chains have gotten a lot better, particularly in the Global South, which
means that we’re losing a lot less food to spoilage — compared to the
agricultural process itself, shipping represents a negligible portion of
the emissions related to just about any given product.
It’s also important to remember that not all farming regions are created
equal. California, for instance, is a great place to grow lots of
things; Arizona, less so. “Depending on the geography where the food is
being produced, it can be super intensive in terms of land use change,
if land is being deforested in order to make way for agricultural fields
or for grazing,” Ringland said. Another factor is the use of nitrogen
fertilizer, which is both emissions-intensive to produce and generates
carbon dioxide from its use, the environmental effects of fertilizer
run-off on nearby land and waterways notwithstanding.
That’s not to say there aren’t other important benefits to eating
locally: contributing to your local economy, supporting biodiversity,
encouraging holistic farming practices. The farmers at your weekend
farmers market are a whole lot more likely to be practicing regenerative
techniques and fertilizing with compost instead of industrial chemicals.
But they’re also not going to be there at 7:48 p.m. on any given Tuesday
when you’re midway through cooking a batch of chicken cacciatore and
realize that you forgot the bell peppers.
Speaking of compost, though, here’s a bonus trick to reduce your
food-related carbon emissions: Collecting and composting your food
scraps is good, but wasting less food is even better. The reason why is
pretty obvious: Before it can be composted, food still has to go through
the entire supply chain. And while composting food produces fewer
emissions than landfilling food waste, it’s not an entirely
emissions-free process, and can be more or less carbon-intensive
depending on where and how it’s made. Reducing your food waste requires
a bit more planning, but it will also save you money and send a more
accurate demand signal down the farm-to-grocery-store supply chain.
I could go on and on about things like the relative carbon impact of
plant-based proteins and the emissions reduction potential of
standardizing expiration dates on food labels, but all of that is still
being worked out. If you are fake meat-curious, you
can check out our guide on that
here.
And if you’re already a vegetarian or curious about it for reasons of
health, ethics, etc., that’s great. The most important thing you, as a
consumer, can do to reduce emissions from the food system is hold
companies accountable for their carbon claims, which means not getting
sucked into the stuff that sounds too good to be true. There’s plenty of
delicious food out there that doesn’t take elaborate math to justify
eating.
So to recap: Eat less beef, waste less food. You can make it more
complicated than that if you want, but everything else is gravy.
It was burrito night — I had some tortillas, salsa, guacamole and red
onion in my refrigerator, but all our meat was still frozen, and I
didn’t have any beans handy. So I did what any climate reporter with an
interest in food systems would do and grabbed a pack of meatless “carne
asada” I’d picked up out of curiosity and threw it into the mix. The end
result was more “huh” than “wow,” but it held its own — with a little
help from some hot sauce.
Growing, raising, processing and transporting food is responsible for
roughly a quarter of worldwide greenhouse gas emissions, nearly 60% of
which comes from meat production,
according
to one estimation. If you’re concerned about your personal
carbon impact, eating less meat is probably on your to-do list. But what
if you still like a carne asada burrito? Thankfully, there are plenty of
companies working on satisfying your cravings, no animals involved.
There are lots of other food system concerns that won’t make it into
this guide — things like agricultural livelihoods, water use, and animal
well-being. But if you’re curious about how fake meats work, what they
taste like, and their emissions impact, here’s what you’ll want to know.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Ben Kelley, owner
and proprietor of Kelley Farms Kitchen, a vegan restaurant in Harpers
Ferry, WV. Ben and his wife Sondra started Kelley Farms after going
vegan themselves more than a decade ago. The cafe offers a mix of
housemade and commercially available meat alternatives.
Ismael Montanez, the program manager
at University of California Berkeley’s Alt Meat Lab, where he’s focused
on food and sustainability broadly. He is co-founder and former CTO of
plant-based lamb company Black Sheep Foods and eats both meat and
plant-based replacements.
Andrea Cecchin, senior agriculture
and carbon researcher at HowGood, a sustainability ratings company.
Cecchin told me he and his family limit the amount of meat they eat but
are focused on a wider plant based diet.
A food’s total carbon impact can be divided into four main areas:
agriculture, processing,
packaging and transportation, Cecchin
told me. As a general rule, the largest part of any food’s impact is
going to be in the agricultural phase. The processing stage, where food
(e.g. wheat) is broken down into ingredients (e.g. flour) and/or
processed with other foods to make a final product (e.g. bread), is “the
other step where you can have quite some significant impacts.” Emissions
at the processing stage are highly dependent on what kind of energy a
business uses to power their processing, and how much energy they are
using to do it, Cecchin said. In comparison, the packaging and
transportation stage make up relatively small percentages of any food’s
total impact.
What about eating local?
There’s plenty of environmental and social benefits to eating locally,
but climate impact isn’t generally one of them.
With the exception of high-value fresh commodities that need to be
transported by air, like coffee or cocoa, transportation has a “very
limited impact” on a final product’s emissions, Cecchin said. This
especially holds true for meat — according to
one
major study, transportation made up a vanishingly small percentage
of total meat-related emissions..
Transportation emissions may make up a higher percentage of the fruits’
and vegetables’ total impact, but the overall impact will still be far
less than meat, whether you’re snacking on imported pineapple from the
chain grocery store or an apple from your farmer’s market.
Packaging is a similar story. “Many low-impact single serving items can
end up with packaging driving up to 50% of their emissions,” Arthur
Gillett, chief research officer at HowGood, told me — but “these
products still generally have a low overall emissions factor.”
When it comes to the comparative size of foods’ emissions impact,
beef cattle (and other grazing animals raised for meat, like
goats and lamb), have the highest median greenhouse gas
emissions per 100 kilograms of protein. Even compared to other
animal products – pork, chicken, cheese, etc. — the difference is
“massive,” Cecchin says. There are a couple reasons why:
A significant portion of beef’s emissions come from cows’ digestion.
Cattle and other ruminants break down the grass and feed they eat by
means of enteric fermentation, which in turn produces
lots of methane, mostly in the form of burps, which are responsible for
the
vast
majority of cow-related methane emissions.
Cattle are also “inefficient” compared to other protein sources, Cecchin
explained, needing much more feed and/or grass (and thus land) to
produce a pound of protein compared to other animals. This process also
takes more time than other animals, increasing the total amount of
methane released per cow, especially if what they’re eating is harder to
digest. It makes beef an “obvious target” for any company pitching a
plant-based alternative, Cecchin said.
Crops have their own carbon emissions, primarily from the use of
nitrogen fertilizer, which is not only energy intensive
to make, once it’s spread on fields it reacts with the soil to produce
nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas that’s much more powerful than CO2.
Deforestation drives additional carbon emissions —
although much of deforestation is actually driven by crops grown for
animal feed.
Mock meats, cheese, eggs and seafood can be made from a wide variety of
ingredients, but soy, wheat, and pea
proteins are the cheapest and easiest to make at scale,
Montanez told me. They’re also pretty flavor-neutral, which makes them
easier to disguise as other things. “If you’re making up a lamb flavor
or a goat flavor or a pork flavor or a fish flavor, the protein source
that you get might contribute to a little bit of umami,” Montanez added,
but not enough to be distracting from the other ingredients. That’s
especially important as the new batch of plant-based companies find
taste is driving consumer’s decisions more than environmental impact, he
said. “These products have to taste just as good, if not better, in
order to have people switch over,” Montanez told me.
Many companies use high-heat extrusion processes to
texturize plant proteins, creating structures that
replicate meat textures. That involves putting the raw material through
“a lot of heat and pressure, forcing the proteins to align in strips, so
it looks like muscle fiber,” Montanez explained.
Other companies produce fake meat via fermentation, in which fungi or
mushrooms are inoculated in an organic growing medium (sometimes itself
a food byproduct) and naturally grow similar fibrous structures. You’ll
see it on food labels as mycelium, fungus, or mushrooms
— this is how my burrito’s “carne asada” was made — and it’s used to
build everything from chicken cutlets to
ribs.
While this skips an expensive and energy-intensive extrusion step and
can allow for more chewy or moist textures, Montanez said, it’s also
slower to grow and less established commercially.
Confusingly, mushroom fermentation products cannot be called plant-based
because fungi as a category are not considered plants. Go figure!
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Does what I eat even matter for the climate?
It’s a multi-trillion dollar question, frankly. While the worldwide food
system is far more complex than individual consumer choices, shifts in
demand for food products, especially among higher-income individuals,
have created changes, such
tripling
the price of quinoa during a boom in its popularity in
mid-2010s. The U.S. and China’s growing middle classes also
drove
a spike in pork demand, only to have that growth slow and
reverse in the past few years over health concerns.
Is it safe to eat meat that’s grown in a lab?
The plant-based meat alternatives currently available at your grocery
store may be highly processed, but they’re different from the cultivated
or “lab-grown” meat coming from a new batch of food companies that seek
to “grow” meat from scratch on the cellular level. In theory, this would
create direct replacements for things like steaks or fish without
actually requiring us to raise actual animals. Almost all of these
products are still in the research and development stage, however, and
none are currently
commercially
available in the U.S.
What if my burgers are labeled “carbon-neutral”?
Let’s not mince words: There is no such thing as carbon-neutral
beef. How to reduce cattle’s climate impact is an area of
active research, encompassing supplements and dietary changes, breeding
programs to create animals that process food more efficiently, and even
methane-sucking
gas masks. There are also ranchers committed to using specific
grazing techniques that encourage extra retention of soil carbon,
thereby offsetting emissions from cows, but “the science is not there
yet” on the scale of sequestration needed for fully carbon-neutral meat,
Cecchin says. “Climate-friendly” or “low-carbon” meat labels have been
criticized for a
lack
of data transparency and only represent a 10% reduction in beef
emissions overall.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Consider the animal.
The process of making plant-based mock meats is basically the reverse of
their animal version, Montanez explained. While meat is made by
processing animals into specific cuts or parts, plant-based replacements
use protein-packed flours and other ingredients to build the “meat” back
up.
Almost all fake red meat products will have a smaller greenhouse gas
impact than their animal versions, Cecchin explained. Compared to a beef
burger, the alternatives “really bring down the carbon footprint — the
amount of water we need to use, and the amount of land that we use” per
unit of food. But for other products, the savings are less clear.
Chicken, for instance, has a much lower footprint, meaning replacements
have to compete against a “very efficient industry and a very efficient
meat.”
Processing details are rarely public, making it difficult to declare
other meat replacements automatic emissions winners.
“It’s really company by company, and could even be year by year as
processing efficiencies change,” Cecchin said, adding that he hopes more
companies will show clear evidence of their total emissions, including
being specific about what they are comparing against.
Read the nutrition labels.
Fake animal products are also not the same nutritionally as actual
animal products, in ways that can be positive or negative depending on
your specific dietary needs. An allergy to soy or wheat gluten would
immediately knock out a good portion of these options, and my carne
asada came with a warning to anyone “sensitive” to fungi.
There are generally
more
carbs, less fat, and more fiber in substitutes compared to meat,
but protein levels can vary widely, and sodium levels can be high
(e.g. Impossible burgers have
just
as much fat and more salt than a 80% lean beef burger of the
same size, though zero cholesterol). As with any processed or prepared
food, a look at the nutritional label is well worth it.
If you want the convenience of bulk frozen burger patties, go with
Impossible
or
Beyond
burgers.
The experts all enjoyed the big-name beef replacements — Cecchin even
said he has chosen Impossible and Beyond patties over regular burgers
while eating out. If you have a little more time, though, Kelley said to
skip the fast food fake burgers and make them yourself. Making good
tasting meat replacements isn’t all that different from cooking meat
itself: spices, technique and how it integrates into a meal makes all
the difference. This is the case whether he’s using Impossible beef on
the restaurant griddle or hand-making a black bean and chickpea patty.
“Just like a raw piece of chicken,” he said, “it’s about how you cook
it.”
Everyone I spoke to said most breaded chicken replacements match their
animal versions pretty well — Montanez even called them “most
consistently tasty” than their actual meat equivalents, which for him
was enough to justify the slight additional cost. He said he thinks
Impossible’s chicken nuggets are the “most convincing” — although he
also cautioned that he doesn’t eat a lot of breaded meat products in the
first place.
Morningstar Farms’ Chik Patty has been a go-to at-home lunch in my house
for nearly three decades, primarily because of that consistency and ease
of preparation. (The “buffalo” flavor is by far the best, in my
opinion.) Kelley uses Gardein’s Chick’n on one of their most popular
sandwiches at the restaurant — they’re a big fan of the company and
product.
Don’t expect a lot of options for raw chicken alternatives, however.
Montanez suspects the economics of competing with relatively cheap meat
isn’t attractive to companies, especially when prepared breaded
versions, both animal and plant-based, are already popular.
“Emulating the flavor
of American chicken is relatively easy and shouldn’t be seen as a
significant achievement,” Montanez said. “What’s truly interesting is
creating a versatile analog that can withstand the same cooking
conditions as real chicken.”
Kelley’s favorite meat replacement is Beyond’s bratwurst sausage, made
with pea protein and avocado oil. He uses it in a variety of meals at
his cafe, as well as to grill up at home, sometimes adding it to pasta.
If you must have a plant-based steak, try
Juicy
Marbles.
Steak and other meats that include marbled fats have been a particularly
tricky nut to crack for fake meat producers because
the traditional extrusion process makes it difficult to capture fat
alongside protein. Montanez told me
Juicy
Marbles has developed a process capable of doing both, which
it’s used to create filet and loin products.
If you’re trying to make the perfect vegan BLT, you might be out of luck
(unless you live in Berkeley).
Montanez’s favorite fake bacon is only available in
a
vegan deli in Berkeley, California, but generally both he and
Kelley haven’t found full bacon strips that really match the experience
of eating bacon. “There’s no way to hold it after you cook it without it
drying out,” Kelley said. Instead, he likes using soy [bacon] crumbles
in various dishes, including in his potato salad.
The pepperoni and other fermented charcuterie from Prime Roots is “quite
impressive, even from a meat eater’s perspective,” Montanez told me. The
company starts its process with koji, a strain of fungus that has been
part of Japanese cuisine for hundreds of years, including in the product
of soy sauces and sake.
If you’re building a stacked sandwich, go with
Tofurky.
The deli slices Kelley uses in sandwiches like reubens or Italian
hoagies are made with seitan or a mix of seitan and soy, from a variety
of companies. But the
Tofurky
brand (not just turkey) is one of their favorites. “We are
always testing new recipes of our own and using reliable and ethical
companies that we grew up loving,” he said.
If you’re craving a lobster roll, you might be on your own.
Kelley has yet to be convinced by most seafood
replacements, he told me. “All the seafood is kind of just the same as
the chicken replacements,” he said. Instead, he uses unripe jackfruit –
a common meat replacement with a stringy texture – hearts of palm, and
spices to replicate crab cakes. Having an exact match isn’t always a
priority for Kelley, who’d rather highlight an ingredient that serves as
a replacement rather than calling it by its faux name. His lobster roll
replacement is made with hearts of palm, but it’s not “vegan lobster” on
his menu, it’s a “hearts of palm” roll.
Texture is a “very difficult thing in seafood,” Montanez said. “I
haven’t seen anything myself where it is 100% convincing,” but he points
out companies like
Impact
Food that are making plant-based sushi without extrusion or
fermentation, currently available in some New York and California
restaurants.
Montanez also called out vegan cheese as a category that struggles to
match its original, citing texture, not flavor, as the sticking point,
especially when it needs to work in a multitude of different recipes.
“You might see a vegan cheese that’s okay applied in pieces,” he said,
“but it’s only as good if you put it in pizza oven temperatures.” An
exception to the rule for him is Climax Foods’ blue cheese, which almost
pulled off a
Judgment
of Paris-like upset in a food competition this year before being
removed from the running.
If you want a no-meat picnic full of protein, sample the various
offerings from
Quorn.
Montanez identified Quorn as a brand that’s not trying to replicate meat
exactly, but tastes good on its own. The British company has a wide
range of no-meat products that feel like they could have a home in a
Tesco, from a vegan Yorkshire ham to mini sausage rolls to “picnic
eggs.”
WHAT’S NEXT?
It’s all a matter of taste.
Approaches to fake meat taste fall on a spectrum. On one end are
companies that try to replicate as closely as possible the taste,
texture, and smell of some specific meat product — say, a chicken
nugget. (Your personal mileage may vary when it comes to replicas of
more complicated meat cuts such as steaks or pork chops.) On the other
end are brands that offer a functional, hopefully flavorful replacement
for meat in a meal but otherwise aren’t trying to fool anyone.
The former approach involves more materials science and chemistry,
Montanez told me. For example, Impossible makes a soy version of a key
molecule in meat known as heme and combines it with a carefully
calibrated proportion of sugars, fats, and water to induce the Maillard
reaction, the process that makes meat brown and form a crust. It’s
possible to create a similar meaty flavor profile without heme
(Impossible has a patent on their version), but they have their own
complications.
“It’s those sugars reacting with the proteins and creating
these molecules that ultimately result in a meaty aroma or flavor,”
Montanez said.
Kelley Farm’s menu is a good example of the wider ingredient
possibilities of meat replacements beyond this approach. In addition to
Impossible patties, Beyond brats, and Gardein’s Chick’n, the restaurant
also serves deli meat replacements made with seitan (basically textured
wheat gluten); folded eggs made from mung beans; BBQ pulled pork made
from jackfruit, which mimics that stringy texture naturally (I’ve had
both Kelley Farms’ barbeque sandwich and commercial jackfruit BBQ
versions and would happily eat either again); and a burger patty that’s
their own mix of chickpeas and black beans.
Don’t overcomplicate it.
It’s also worth noting that there is a more literal approach to eating a
plant-based diet that’s already the standard in many other countries —
that is, rather than replacing meat products with fake meat products,
just eat more plants. If you feel like you’re missing out on protein,
beans, lentils, tofu, and certain grains like quinoa, farro or teff,
have high amounts.
Highly engineered meat substitutes are often more expensive than the
animal products they are replacing, so if you’re struggling with hunger,
have specific dietary requirements, anxiety around food, or an eating
disorder, concerns about emissions shouldn’t even enter the picture.
For that matter, just reorienting your approach to eating meat saves a
lot of carbon on its own. Kelley told me he reaches for meat
replacements when he’s craving something specific, while Cecchin prefers
meat alternatives when he’s eating out.
It was burrito night — I had some tortillas, salsa, guacamole and red
onion in my refrigerator, but all our meat was still frozen, and I
didn’t have any beans handy. So I did what any climate reporter with an
interest in food systems would do and grabbed a pack of meatless “carne
asada” I’d picked up out of curiosity and threw it into the mix. The end
result was more “huh” than “wow,” but it held its own — with a little
help from some hot sauce.
Growing, raising, processing and transporting food is responsible for
roughly a quarter of worldwide greenhouse gas emissions, nearly 60% of
which comes from meat production,
according
to one estimation. If you’re concerned about your personal
carbon impact, eating less meat is probably on your to-do list. But what
if you still like a carne asada burrito? Thankfully, there are plenty of
companies working on satisfying your cravings, no animals involved.
There are lots of other food system concerns that won’t make it into
this guide — things like agricultural livelihoods, water use, and animal
well-being. But if you’re curious about how fake meats work, what they
taste like, and their emissions impact, here’s what you’ll want to know.
THE EXPERT PANEL
Ben Kelley, owner
and proprietor of Kelley Farms Kitchen, a vegan restaurant in Harpers
Ferry, WV. Ben and his wife Sondra started Kelley Farms after going
vegan themselves more than a decade ago. The cafe offers a mix of
housemade and commercially available meat alternatives.
Ismael Montanez, the program manager
at University of California Berkeley’s Alt Meat Lab, where he’s focused
on food and sustainability broadly. He is co-founder and former CTO of
plant-based lamb company Black Sheep Foods and eats both meat and
plant-based replacements.
Andrea Cecchin, senior agriculture
and carbon researcher at HowGood, a sustainability ratings company.
Cecchin told me he and his family limit the amount of meat they eat but
are focused on a wider plant based diet.
A food’s total carbon impact can be divided into four main areas:
agriculture, processing,
packaging and transportation, Cecchin
told me. As a general rule, the largest part of any food’s impact is
going to be in the agricultural phase. The processing stage, where food
(e.g. wheat) is broken down into ingredients (e.g. flour) and/or
processed with other foods to make a final product (e.g. bread), is “the
other step where you can have quite some significant impacts.” Emissions
at the processing stage are highly dependent on what kind of energy a
business uses to power their processing, and how much energy they are
using to do it, Cecchin said. In comparison, the packaging and
transportation stage make up relatively small percentages of any food’s
total impact.
What about eating local?
There’s plenty of environmental and social benefits to eating locally, but climate impact isn’t generally one of them.
</div>
With the exception of high-value fresh commodities that need to be transported by air, like coffee or cocoa, transportation has a “very limited impact” on a final product’s emissions, Cecchin said. This especially holds true for meat — according to
<a href="https://ourworldindata.org/food-choice-vs-eating-local" rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank">one major study</a>, transportation made up a vanishingly small percentage of total meat-related emissions..
</div>
Transportation emissions may make up a higher percentage of the fruits’ and vegetables’ total impact, but the overall impact will still be far less than meat, whether you’re snacking on imported pineapple from the chain grocery store or an apple from your farmer’s market.
</div>
Packaging is a similar story. “Many low-impact single serving items can end up with packaging driving up to 50% of their emissions,” Arthur Gillett, chief research officer at HowGood, told me — but “these products still generally have a low overall emissions factor.”
</div>
When it comes to the comparative size of foods’ emissions impact,
beef cattle (and other grazing animals raised for meat, like
goats and lamb), have the highest median greenhouse gas
emissions per 100 kilograms of protein. Even compared to other
animal products – pork, chicken, cheese, etc. — the difference is
“massive,” Cecchin says. There are a couple reasons why:
A significant portion of beef’s emissions come from cows’ digestion.
Cattle and other ruminants break down the grass and feed they eat by
means of enteric fermentation, which in turn produces
lots of methane, mostly in the form of burps, which are responsible for
the
vast
majority of cow-related methane emissions.
Cattle are also “inefficient” compared to other protein sources, Cecchin
explained, needing much more feed and/or grass (and thus land) to
produce a pound of protein compared to other animals. This process also
takes more time than other animals, increasing the total amount of
methane released per cow, especially if what they’re eating is harder to
digest. It makes beef an “obvious target” for any company pitching a
plant-based alternative, Cecchin said.
Crops have their own carbon emissions, primarily from the use of
nitrogen fertilizer, which is not only energy intensive
to make, once it’s spread on fields it reacts with the soil to produce
nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas that’s much more powerful than CO2.
Deforestation drives additional carbon emissions —
although much of deforestation is actually driven by crops grown for
animal feed.
Mock meats, cheese, eggs and seafood can be made from a wide variety of
ingredients, but soy, wheat, and pea
proteins are the cheapest and easiest to make at scale,
Montanez told me. They’re also pretty flavor-neutral, which makes them
easier to disguise as other things. “If you’re making up a lamb flavor
or a goat flavor or a pork flavor or a fish flavor, the protein source
that you get might contribute to a little bit of umami,” Montanez added,
but not enough to be distracting from the other ingredients. That’s
especially important as the new batch of plant-based companies find
taste is driving consumer’s decisions more than environmental impact, he
said. “These products have to taste just as good, if not better, in
order to have people switch over,” Montanez told me.
Many companies use high-heat extrusion processes to
texturize plant proteins, creating structures that
replicate meat textures. That involves putting the raw material through
“a lot of heat and pressure, forcing the proteins to align in strips, so
it looks like muscle fiber,” Montanez explained.
Other companies produce fake meat via fermentation, in which fungi or
mushrooms are inoculated in an organic growing medium (sometimes itself
a food byproduct) and naturally grow similar fibrous structures. You’ll
see it on food labels as mycelium, fungus, or mushrooms
— this is how my burrito’s “carne asada” was made — and it’s used to
build everything from chicken cutlets to
ribs.
While this skips an expensive and energy-intensive extrusion step and
can allow for more chewy or moist textures, Montanez said, it’s also
slower to grow and less established commercially.
Confusingly, mushroom fermentation products cannot be called plant-based because fungi as a category are not considered plants. Go figure!
</div>
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Does what I eat even matter for the climate?
It’s a multi-trillion dollar question, frankly. While the worldwide food
system is far more complex than individual consumer choices, shifts in
demand for food products, especially among higher-income individuals,
have created changes, such
tripling
the price of quinoa during a boom in its popularity in
mid-2010s. The U.S. and China’s growing middle classes also
drove
a spike in pork demand, only to have that growth slow and
reverse in the past few years over health concerns.
Is it safe to eat meat that’s grown in a lab?
The plant-based meat alternatives currently available at your grocery
store may be highly processed, but they’re different from the cultivated
or “lab-grown” meat coming from a new batch of food companies that seek
to “grow” meat from scratch on the cellular level. In theory, this would
create direct replacements for things like steaks or fish without
actually requiring us to raise actual animals. Almost all of these
products are still in the research and development stage, however, and
none are currently
commercially
available in the U.S.
What if my burgers are labeled “carbon-neutral”?
Let’s not mince words: There is no such thing as carbon-neutral
beef. How to reduce cattle’s climate impact is an area of
active research, encompassing supplements and dietary changes, breeding
programs to create animals that process food more efficiently, and even
methane-sucking
gas masks. There are also ranchers committed to using specific
grazing techniques that encourage extra retention of soil carbon,
thereby offsetting emissions from cows, but “the science is not there
yet” on the scale of sequestration needed for fully carbon-neutral meat,
Cecchin says. “Climate-friendly” or “low-carbon” meat labels have been
criticized for a
lack
of data transparency and only represent a 10% reduction in beef
emissions overall.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
Consider the animal.
The process of making plant-based mock meats is basically the reverse of
their animal version, Montanez explained. While meat is made by
processing animals into specific cuts or parts, plant-based replacements
use protein-packed flours and other ingredients to build the “meat” back
up.
Almost all fake red meat products will have a smaller greenhouse gas
impact than their animal versions, Cecchin explained. Compared to a beef
burger, the alternatives “really bring down the carbon footprint — the
amount of water we need to use, and the amount of land that we use” per
unit of food. But for other products, the savings are less clear.
Chicken, for instance, has a much lower footprint, meaning replacements
have to compete against a “very efficient industry and a very efficient
meat.”
Processing details are rarely public, making it difficult to declare
other meat replacements automatic emissions winners.
“It’s really company by company, and could even be year by year as
processing efficiencies change,” Cecchin said, adding that he hopes more
companies will show clear evidence of their total emissions, including
being specific about what they are comparing against.
Read the nutrition labels.
Fake animal products are also not the same nutritionally as actual
animal products, in ways that can be positive or negative depending on
your specific dietary needs. An allergy to soy or wheat gluten would
immediately knock out a good portion of these options, and my carne
asada came with a warning to anyone “sensitive” to fungi.
There are generally
more
carbs, less fat, and more fiber in substitutes compared to meat,
but protein levels can vary widely, and sodium levels can be high
(e.g. Impossible burgers have
just
as much fat and more salt than a 80% lean beef burger of the
same size, though zero cholesterol). As with any processed or prepared
food, a look at the nutritional label is well worth it.
If you want the convenience of bulk frozen burger patties, go with
Impossible
or
Beyond
burgers.
The experts all enjoyed the big-name beef replacements — Cecchin even
said he has chosen Impossible and Beyond patties over regular burgers
while eating out. If you have a little more time, though, Kelley said to
skip the fast food fake burgers and make them yourself. Making good
tasting meat replacements isn’t all that different from cooking meat
itself: spices, technique and how it integrates into a meal makes all
the difference. This is the case whether he’s using Impossible beef on
the restaurant griddle or hand-making a black bean and chickpea patty.
“Just like a raw piece of chicken,” he said, “it’s about how you cook
it.”
Everyone I spoke to said most breaded chicken replacements match their
animal versions pretty well — Montanez even called them “most
consistently tasty” than their actual meat equivalents, which for him
was enough to justify the slight additional cost. He said he thinks
Impossible’s chicken nuggets are the “most convincing” — although he
also cautioned that he doesn’t eat a lot of breaded meat products in the
first place.
Morningstar Farms’ Chik Patty has been a go-to at-home lunch in my house
for nearly three decades, primarily because of that consistency and ease
of preparation. (The “buffalo” flavor is by far the best, in my
opinion.) Kelley uses Gardein’s Chick’n on one of their most popular
sandwiches at the restaurant — they’re a big fan of the company and
product.
Don’t expect a lot of options for raw chicken alternatives, however.
Montanez suspects the economics of competing with relatively cheap meat
isn’t attractive to companies, especially when prepared breaded
versions, both animal and plant-based, are already popular.
“Emulating the flavor
of American chicken is relatively easy and shouldn’t be seen as a
significant achievement,” Montanez said. “What’s truly interesting is
creating a versatile analog that can withstand the same cooking
conditions as real chicken.”
Kelley’s favorite meat replacement is Beyond’s bratwurst sausage, made
with pea protein and avocado oil. He uses it in a variety of meals at
his cafe, as well as to grill up at home, sometimes adding it to pasta.
If you must have a plant-based steak, try
Juicy
Marbles.
Steak and other meats that include marbled fats have been a particularly
tricky nut to crack for fake meat producers because
the traditional extrusion process makes it difficult to capture fat
alongside protein. Montanez told me
Juicy
Marbles has developed a process capable of doing both, which
it’s used to create filet and loin products.
If you’re trying to make the perfect vegan BLT, you might be out of luck
(unless you live in Berkeley).
Montanez’s favorite fake bacon is only available in
a
vegan deli in Berkeley, California, but generally both he and
Kelley haven’t found full bacon strips that really match the experience
of eating bacon. “There’s no way to hold it after you cook it without it
drying out,” Kelley said. Instead, he likes using soy [bacon] crumbles
in various dishes, including in his potato salad.
The pepperoni and other fermented charcuterie from Prime Roots is “quite
impressive, even from a meat eater’s perspective,” Montanez told me. The
company starts its process with koji, a strain of fungus that has been
part of Japanese cuisine for hundreds of years, including in the product
of soy sauces and sake.
If you’re building a stacked sandwich, go with
Tofurky.
The deli slices Kelley uses in sandwiches like reubens or Italian
hoagies are made with seitan or a mix of seitan and soy, from a variety
of companies. But the
Tofurky
brand (not just turkey) is one of their favorites. “We are
always testing new recipes of our own and using reliable and ethical
companies that we grew up loving,” he said.
If you’re craving a lobster roll, you might be on your own.
Kelley has yet to be convinced by most seafood
replacements, he told me. “All the seafood is kind of just the same as
the chicken replacements,” he said. Instead, he uses unripe jackfruit –
a common meat replacement with a stringy texture – hearts of palm, and
spices to replicate crab cakes. Having an exact match isn’t always a
priority for Kelley, who’d rather highlight an ingredient that serves as
a replacement rather than calling it by its faux name. His lobster roll
replacement is made with hearts of palm, but it’s not “vegan lobster” on
his menu, it’s a “hearts of palm” roll.
Texture is a “very difficult thing in seafood,” Montanez said. “I
haven’t seen anything myself where it is 100% convincing,” but he points
out companies like
Impact
Food that are making plant-based sushi without extrusion or
fermentation, currently available in some New York and California
restaurants.
Montanez also called out vegan cheese as a category that struggles to
match its original, citing texture, not flavor, as the sticking point,
especially when it needs to work in a multitude of different recipes.
“You might see a vegan cheese that’s okay applied in pieces,” he said,
“but it’s only as good if you put it in pizza oven temperatures.” An
exception to the rule for him is Climax Foods’ blue cheese, which almost
pulled off a
Judgment
of Paris-like upset in a food competition this year before being
removed from the running.
If you want a no-meat picnic full of protein, sample the various
offerings from
Quorn.
Montanez identified Quorn as a brand that’s not trying to replicate meat
exactly, but tastes good on its own. The British company has a wide
range of no-meat products that feel like they could have a home in a
Tesco, from a vegan Yorkshire ham to mini sausage rolls to “picnic
eggs.”
WHAT’S NEXT?
It’s all a matter of taste.
Approaches to fake meat taste fall on a spectrum. On one end are
companies that try to replicate as closely as possible the taste,
texture, and smell of some specific meat product — say, a chicken
nugget. (Your personal mileage may vary when it comes to replicas of
more complicated meat cuts such as steaks or pork chops.) On the other
end are brands that offer a functional, hopefully flavorful replacement
for meat in a meal but otherwise aren’t trying to fool anyone.
The former approach involves more materials science and chemistry,
Montanez told me. For example, Impossible makes a soy version of a key
molecule in meat known as heme and combines it with a carefully
calibrated proportion of sugars, fats, and water to induce the Maillard
reaction, the process that makes meat brown and form a crust. It’s
possible to create a similar meaty flavor profile without heme
(Impossible has a patent on their version), but they have their own
complications.
“It’s those sugars reacting with the proteins and creating
these molecules that ultimately result in a meaty aroma or flavor,”
Montanez said.
Kelley Farm’s menu is a good example of the wider ingredient
possibilities of meat replacements beyond this approach. In addition to
Impossible patties, Beyond brats, and Gardein’s Chick’n, the restaurant
also serves deli meat replacements made with seitan (basically textured
wheat gluten); folded eggs made from mung beans; BBQ pulled pork made
from jackfruit, which mimics that stringy texture naturally (I’ve had
both Kelley Farms’ barbeque sandwich and commercial jackfruit BBQ
versions and would happily eat either again); and a burger patty that’s
their own mix of chickpeas and black beans.
Don’t overcomplicate it.
It’s also worth noting that there is a more literal approach to eating a
plant-based diet that’s already the standard in many other countries —
that is, rather than replacing meat products with fake meat products,
just eat more plants. If you feel like you’re missing out on protein,
beans, lentils, tofu, and certain grains like quinoa, farro or teff,
have high amounts.
Highly engineered meat substitutes are often more expensive than the
animal products they are replacing, so if you’re struggling with hunger,
have specific dietary requirements, anxiety around food, or an eating
disorder, concerns about emissions shouldn’t even enter the picture.
For that matter, just reorienting your approach to eating meat saves a
lot of carbon on its own. Kelley told me he reaches for meat
replacements when he’s craving something specific, while Cecchin prefers
meat alternatives when he’s eating out.
Soyuz
capsule with 2 Russians, 1 American from ISS returns to Earth
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
Moscow — A Soyuz capsule carrying two Russians and one American from
the International Space Station landed Monday in Kazakhstan, ending a
record-breaking stay for the Russian pair.
The capsule landed on the Kazakh steppe about 3 1/2 hours after
undocking from the ISS in an apparently trouble-free descent. In the
last stage of the landing, it descended under a red-and-white parachute
at about 7.2 meters per second (16 mph), with small rockets fired in the
final seconds to cushion the touchdown.
The astronauts were extracted from the capsule and placed in nearby
chairs to help them adjust to gravity, then given medical examinations
in a nearby tent.
Oleg Kononenko and Nikolai Chub returned after 374 days aboard the
space station; on Friday they broke the record for the longest
continuous stay there. Also in the capsule was American Tracy Dyson, who
was in the space station for six months.
Eight astronauts remain in the space station, including Americans
Butch Wilmore and Suni Williams, who have remained long past their
scheduled return to Earth.
They arrived in June as the first crew of Boeing’s new Starliner
capsule. But their trip was marred by thruster troubles and helium
leaks, and the U.S. space agency NASA decided it was too risky to return
them on Starliner.
The two astronauts are to ride home with SpaceX next year.
Driving
less has a lot of benefits. You’ll be healthier than your
vehicle-bound peers, about
a
third of whom don’t walk for more than 10 minutes a week. You’ll
cut carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, and methane emissions. In the
process, you’ll probably realize how awful America’s public and active
transportation infrastructure is — and may want to do something about
it.
The same goes for just about any action you’ll find in Heatmap’s
guide
to decarbonizing your life. Should it be easier to get a permit to
install rooftop solar panels? For sure. Should there be more public
chargers to support EV adoption in your community? Without a doubt.
It can be especially overwhelming to think about getting involved in
your local political processes when it comes to mobility because the
cards are stacked so heavily in drivers’ favor. But it’s far from
impossible. Here’s Heatmap’s guide to advocating for better
transportation options and infrastructure in your community.
Pick a project
This might be the hardest step of all. To take transportation as an
example, most American cities and towns were literally constructed to
get drivers from point A to point B as fast as possible — meaning that
their design is often actively hostile to anyone who wants to walk,
bike, or take mass transit instead. If you put your mind to it, you
could probably devise a dozen ways to make your immediate neighborhood
friendlier to carless commuters.
Transportation for America’s
transit
advocate guide has several suggested starting places, including
advocating for additional late-night service on a particular bus route,
improving access to transit stations or stops (known as first- or
last-mile connectivity), and pushing for shuttle services to connect
riders with jobs. Petitioning for something like a bike lane, new
sidewalk, safer intersections, or a missing crosswalk is another good
place to start.
“Focus on one individual project,” Alexa Sledge, the communications
director at
Transportation
Alternatives, a New York City nonprofit promoting non-polluting,
safe, and quiet travel, told me. Being clear and focused on what you
want — and, importantly, not getting overwhelmed or pulled in multiple
directions — will help you achieve your goal.
Strong
Towns, a nonprofit that supports transportation advocates, calls
this step the
“humble
observation:” identifying where people are struggling in your
community and zeroing in on the smallest first possible step to help.
Get involved with your local transportation advocacy group
Here’s the excellent news: You aren’t in this fight alone.
Pretty much every major city and metropolitan region in the U.S. has its
own transportation advocacy group these days, and you’re potentially
just a
Google
search away from locating yours. (If you can’t find a
transportation-specific group, look into local climate or pedestrian
organizations, which frequently have overlapping objectives.)
It’s important to link up with others not just because they might
already have identified priority projects in your area. Advocating for
structural change requires, by definition, allies — and unfortunately,
car-centricity is so dominant that transit advocates are often forced to
prove
the
obvious community benefits of things like better bus routes or
protected bike lanes.
If you don’t live in an area with an active transit group, nationwide
organizations like
Transportation
for America and
Strong
Towns can connect with to get the tools, resources,
training,
and advice you need to start gathering allies.
How do I change a zoning law? Or weigh in on a renewable energy
project near me?
Maybe you’re reading this guide because you’re interested in advocating
climate-conscious
zoning reform or want to weigh in on a wind farm nearby. There
is a
“profound
diversity” of processes to do so from municipality to
municipality, and no one-size-fits-all approach. That’s why it’s extra
important to get involved with a local advocacy group; veteran
organizers in your area can help you navigate the labyrinthine processes
of your specific local government.
That said, here are a few things to keep your eyes peeled for:
Comment Periods. A comment period typically lasts 30 to
60 days and is conducted by the overseeing public agency (for example,
here
is the EPA’s database of environmental impact statements that are
currently open for public comments). Public comment periods for large
developments typically happen during
the
scoping process, following a Notice of Intent published in the
Federal Register.
Metropolitan Planning Organizations help oversee how
federal transportation funds get used regionally. They can be structured
in different ways but generally they’re run by elected officials.
Getting in touch with your MPO representative can be powerful because,
as
Streetsblog writes, “you’ll likely catch them by surprise and find
them more receptive to strategic pressure than expected.”
Typically, state legislators need to
write
new laws to change things like existing zoning regulations. Learn
who represents you and tell them what you think about plans in your city
or town — and organize locally to campaign for candidates who would
advance your goals.
Let your elected officials know you care about transit
There is an old urban planning joke about how traffic woes could be
fixed by adding
just
one more lane. (They can’t be). Alas, this is also something of
a federal policy; even though the 2021 Bipartisan Infrastructure Law set
aside $36 billion to “transform our transportation system,” many states
used their flexible funds for
things
like widening roads. Mass and active transit are often only an
afterthought when it comes to funding: the Capital Investment Grants
Program, one of the most significant federal programs for transit, is on
the chopping block every budget-writing session, and programs like the
Highway Trust Fund
puts
as little as 13% toward mass transit.
It’s our elected officials who make these decisions, though — and it’s
their job to listen to their constituents. Here’s
a
handy page for determining the relevant senators and
representatives to contact about federal funding for transit and active
mobility policies; for local projects, you’ll want to reach out to your
city council members, whose names and email addresses or phone numbers
you should be able to find on your city website. And if you feel you’re
getting brushed off by city staff when you reach out, focus on the
smallest possible steps forward and be persistent (you can learn more
strategies
here).
Make a public comment
The truth is, most people don’t go to their city council meetings. “When
you really get down to the local level, there often aren’t as many
people fighting, so you really can make a big difference,” Sledge said.
Speaking up at hearings, town halls, public comment periods, or city
council meetings can result in significant change and progress.
But let’s face it: Because most of us don’t have experience in local
activism, telling someone to “go to a city council meeting” is much
easier said than done. “The thing to remember is that your city council
members work for you,” Sledge said. “They are elected members of your
government, and you vote for them, and they are paid with taxpayer
money. It’s part of their job to listen to you.”
Doug Gordon, the cohost of
The
War on Cars, a podcast about the fight against car culture,
also suggested taking some of the pressure off yourself. “Don’t feel
like you have to give the rousing patriotic speech in defense of the
neighborhood bike lane,” he told me. “Just go and listen, and maybe if
all that’s asked of you is to raise your hand when they ask how many
people support this project, and that’s all you do, great.”
You don’t necessarily need to show up at a town council meeting or a
representative’s office, either. Sledge suggested taking smaller steps
like a phone call or email, or even just talking to people in your
immediate community (for example, if you want a crosswalk outside your
kid’s school, start by talking to the school board or other parents).
When approaching someone like your city counselor, use language like:
“This crosswalk is really important to me. How do I get this done?”
A Step-By-Step Guide to Making a Public Comment
Depending on the project you’re pursuing, look up when your local
transportation authority is inviting public comments (
here’s
an example of what that page looks like in New York City). You can
also search for when your state is holding public transportation
hearings (here’s
what
Oklahoma’s looks like) and contact the relevant representatives to
express your views. Most likely, though, you’ll be looking for your
town’s public meeting schedule
(here’s
an example of San Jose’s) and seeking a special
session related to transportation or a regular business
meeting. Virtual hearings have also been common since the
pandemic.
2. Research beforehand to learn how to comment publicly in
your city or town. This may involve signing up on the
town’s website or on a sign-in sheet when you arrive at the hearing.
3. In most cases, during the public comment
portion of the city council meeting, you can address the
council on any public issue (it does not have to be on the agenda).
Again, check your city or town’s website to learn the specifics of
procedures. Also, be aware of the time limit for your
comments; generally, you’ll have about three minutes.
When you’re called on:
State your full name and any brief, relevant details, like the
neighborhood you live in or the transit advocacy group you’re associated
with.
Add supporting details —
tell
your story. Why is this important to you? How will it benefit others
in your community? When you can, back up statements with data (the
American Public Transportation Association has
a toolbox full of handy
stats).
Restate your “ask” in conclusion.
Thank your representatives.
During your comment, you will probably see a timer somewhere in the room
to help you track how long you have left to speak. The best comments are
short and concise. Even if you’re frustrated with the process, be
polite; remember that your comment can be seen and cited by anyone,
including the media. Speak slowly. Here’s
a
guide for making an effective public comment from the National
Resources Defense Council, with a sample script.
Keep going
“If changing the system was easy,” writes
Strong
Towns, “we’d have done it long ago.” Many campaigns take years
to come to fruition — being persistent and building a consensus, so
advocates are working together toward the same cause, are two of the
biggest lessons for success that Transportation for America stresses in
their
case studies.
It may take getting creative. Join the greater transportation advocacy
community; listen to relevant
podcasts,
read
related books, watch relevant YouTube videos, and learn from
other campaigns. “You need a website, you need a public petition, and
you need a T-shirt, because otherwise you’re just somebody with an
opinion,” Rob Goodspeed, a founder of Trains Not Lanes, which
successfully
convinced Michigan’s Department of Transportation to drop
highway expansion plans,
told
Streetsblog.
And when you do finallysucceed? Celebrate.
Promote it. Share your lessons with other organizers. Then identify a
new project and begin again.
Driving
less has a lot of benefits. You’ll be healthier than your
vehicle-bound peers, about
a
third of whom don’t walk for more than 10 minutes a week. You’ll
cut carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, and methane emissions. In the
process, you’ll probably realize how awful America’s public and active
transportation infrastructure is — and may want to do something about
it.
The same goes for just about any action you’ll find in Heatmap’s
guide
to decarbonizing your life. Should it be easier to get a permit to
install rooftop solar panels? For sure. Should there be more public
chargers to support EV adoption in your community? Without a doubt.
It can be especially overwhelming to think about getting involved in
your local political processes when it comes to mobility because the
cards are stacked so heavily in drivers’ favor. But it’s far from
impossible. Here’s Heatmap’s guide to advocating for better
transportation options and infrastructure in your community.
Pick a project
This might be the hardest step of all. To take transportation as an
example, most American cities and towns were literally constructed to
get drivers from point A to point B as fast as possible — meaning that
their design is often actively hostile to anyone who wants to walk,
bike, or take mass transit instead. If you put your mind to it, you
could probably devise a dozen ways to make your immediate neighborhood
friendlier to carless commuters.
Transportation for America’s
transit
advocate guide has several suggested starting places, including
advocating for additional late-night service on a particular bus route,
improving access to transit stations or stops (known as first- or
last-mile connectivity), and pushing for shuttle services to connect
riders with jobs. Petitioning for something like a bike lane, new
sidewalk, safer intersections, or a missing crosswalk is another good
place to start.
“Focus on one individual project,” Alexa Sledge, the communications
director at
Transportation
Alternatives, a New York City nonprofit promoting non-polluting,
safe, and quiet travel, told me. Being clear and focused on what you
want — and, importantly, not getting overwhelmed or pulled in multiple
directions — will help you achieve your goal.
Strong
Towns, a nonprofit that supports transportation advocates, calls
this step the
“humble
observation:” identifying where people are struggling in your
community and zeroing in on the smallest first possible step to help.
Get involved with your local transportation advocacy group
Here’s the excellent news: You aren’t in this fight alone.
Pretty much every major city and metropolitan region in the U.S. has its
own transportation advocacy group these days, and you’re potentially
just a
Google
search away from locating yours. (If you can’t find a
transportation-specific group, look into local climate or pedestrian
organizations, which frequently have overlapping objectives.)
It’s important to link up with others not just because they might
already have identified priority projects in your area. Advocating for
structural change requires, by definition, allies — and unfortunately,
car-centricity is so dominant that transit advocates are often forced to
prove
the
obvious community benefits of things like better bus routes or
protected bike lanes.
If you don’t live in an area with an active transit group, nationwide
organizations like
Transportation
for America and
Strong
Towns can connect with to get the tools, resources,
training,
and advice you need to start gathering allies.
How do I change a zoning law? Or weigh in on a renewable energy
project near me?
Maybe you’re reading this guide because you’re interested in advocating
climate-conscious
zoning reform or want to weigh in on a wind farm nearby. There
is a
“profound
diversity” of processes to do so from municipality to
municipality, and no one-size-fits-all approach. That’s why it’s extra
important to get involved with a local advocacy group; veteran
organizers in your area can help you navigate the labyrinthine processes
of your specific local government.
That said, here are a few things to keep your eyes peeled for:
Comment Periods. A comment period typically lasts 30 to
60 days and is conducted by the overseeing public agency (for example,
here
is the EPA’s database of environmental impact statements that are
currently open for public comments). Public comment periods for large
developments typically happen during
the
scoping process, following a Notice of Intent published in the
Federal Register.
Metropolitan Planning Organizations help oversee how
federal transportation funds get used regionally. They can be structured
in different ways but generally they’re run by elected officials.
Getting in touch with your MPO representative can be powerful because,
as
Streetsblog writes, “you’ll likely catch them by surprise and find
them more receptive to strategic pressure than expected.”
Typically, state legislators need to
write
new laws to change things like existing zoning regulations. Learn
who represents you and tell them what you think about plans in your city
or town — and organize locally to campaign for candidates who would
advance your goals.
Let your elected officials know you care about transit
There is an old urban planning joke about how traffic woes could be
fixed by adding
just
one more lane. (They can’t be). Alas, this is also something of
a federal policy; even though the 2021 Bipartisan Infrastructure Law set
aside $36 billion to “transform our transportation system,” many states
used their flexible funds for
things
like widening roads. Mass and active transit are often only an
afterthought when it comes to funding: the Capital Investment Grants
Program, one of the most significant federal programs for transit, is on
the chopping block every budget-writing session, and programs like the
Highway Trust Fund
puts
as little as 13% toward mass transit.
It’s our elected officials who make these decisions, though — and it’s
their job to listen to their constituents. Here’s
a
handy page for determining the relevant senators and
representatives to contact about federal funding for transit and active
mobility policies; for local projects, you’ll want to reach out to your
city council members, whose names and email addresses or phone numbers
you should be able to find on your city website. And if you feel you’re
getting brushed off by city staff when you reach out, focus on the
smallest possible steps forward and be persistent (you can learn more
strategies
here).
Make a public comment
The truth is, most people don’t go to their city council meetings. “When
you really get down to the local level, there often aren’t as many
people fighting, so you really can make a big difference,” Sledge said.
Speaking up at hearings, town halls, public comment periods, or city
council meetings can result in significant change and progress.
But let’s face it: Because most of us don’t have experience in local
activism, telling someone to “go to a city council meeting” is much
easier said than done. “The thing to remember is that your city council
members work for you,” Sledge said. “They are elected members of your
government, and you vote for them, and they are paid with taxpayer
money. It’s part of their job to listen to you.”
Doug Gordon, the cohost of
The
War on Cars, a podcast about the fight against car culture,
also suggested taking some of the pressure off yourself. “Don’t feel
like you have to give the rousing patriotic speech in defense of the
neighborhood bike lane,” he told me. “Just go and listen, and maybe if
all that’s asked of you is to raise your hand when they ask how many
people support this project, and that’s all you do, great.”
You don’t necessarily need to show up at a town council meeting or a
representative’s office, either. Sledge suggested taking smaller steps
like a phone call or email, or even just talking to people in your
immediate community (for example, if you want a crosswalk outside your
kid’s school, start by talking to the school board or other parents).
When approaching someone like your city counselor, use language like:
“This crosswalk is really important to me. How do I get this done?”
A Step-By-Step Guide to Making a Public Comment
Depending on the project you’re pursuing, look up when your local
transportation authority is inviting public comments (
here’s
an example of what that page looks like in New York City). You can
also search for when your state is holding public transportation
hearings (here’s
what
Oklahoma’s looks like) and contact the relevant representatives to
express your views. Most likely, though, you’ll be looking for your
town’s public meeting schedule
(here’s
an example of San Jose’s) and seeking a special
session related to transportation or a regular business
meeting. Virtual hearings have also been common since the
pandemic.
2. Research beforehand to learn how to comment publicly in
your city or town. This may involve signing up on the
town’s website or on a sign-in sheet when you arrive at the hearing.
3. In most cases, during the public comment
portion of the city council meeting, you can address the
council on any public issue (it does not have to be on the agenda).
Again, check your city or town’s website to learn the specifics of
procedures. Also, be aware of the time limit for your
comments; generally, you’ll have about three minutes.
When you’re called on:
State your full name and any brief, relevant details, like the
neighborhood you live in or the transit advocacy group you’re associated
with.
Add supporting details —
tell
your story. Why is this important to you? How will it benefit others
in your community? When you can, back up statements with data (the
American Public Transportation Association has
a toolbox full of handy
stats).
Restate your “ask” in conclusion.
Thank your representatives.
During your comment, you will probably see a timer somewhere in the room
to help you track how long you have left to speak. The best comments are
short and concise. Even if you’re frustrated with the process, be
polite; remember that your comment can be seen and cited by anyone,
including the media. Speak slowly. Here’s
a
guide for making an effective public comment from the National
Resources Defense Council, with a sample script.
Keep going
“If changing the system was easy,” writes
Strong
Towns, “we’d have done it long ago.” Many campaigns take years
to come to fruition — being persistent and building a consensus, so
advocates are working together toward the same cause, are two of the
biggest lessons for success that Transportation for America stresses in
their
case studies.
It may take getting creative. Join the greater transportation advocacy
community; listen to relevant
podcasts,
read
related books, watch relevant YouTube videos, and learn from
other campaigns. “You need a website, you need a public petition, and
you need a T-shirt, because otherwise you’re just somebody with an
opinion,” Rob Goodspeed, a founder of Trains Not Lanes, which
successfully
convinced Michigan’s Department of Transportation to drop
highway expansion plans,
told
Streetsblog.
And when you do finallysucceed? Celebrate.
Promote it. Share your lessons with other organizers. Then identify a
new project and begin again.
As a renter in a walkable city, I can’t get heat pumps or solar panels
and don’t need an EV. The main thing I try to do is buy used. There’s so
many vintage, consignment, and thrift stores, online used clothing and
furniture marketplaces, and even name-brand businesses that recycle old
styles and models that you can find basically anything you want.
Yearning for a pair of Lululemon leggings or in need of a basic black
J.Crew blazer? Check Poshmark or Depop, where someone is inevitably
giving away theirs for a discount. Facebook Marketplace is a goldmine
for chairs, desks, lamps, toasters, fans, air conditioners, and so much
more. If you’re in search of a couch or dresser that you need delivered,
try AptDeco. Searching for used clothing and furniture takes time and
effort, and can make me feel crazy. But fast fashion and furniture are a
scourge of the Earth, and this is my best effort at resistance. —
Emily
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again – I fully endorse buying a
used Chevy Bolt. With its estimated 259 miles of range and its zippy
acceleration, there is no better bang for your buck if you’re
considering an electric vehicle. Plus, you can score a federal (and
sometimes state-level) rebate on the purchase if you meet certain income
requirements. Factoring in incentives, it’s possible to nab one for
about
$12,000 in certain states. Sure, it’s not a head-turner, nor is it
the fastest to charge, but you’d be hard pressed to find a better deal
when buying an electric vehicle. — Mike
The internet overlords knew that I had been reporting on plastic waste
and the
myth
of plastic recycling a few years back and bombarded me for months
with perfectly targeted Instagram ads for
Blueland.
Eventually I caved and bought its reusable hand soap bottle and soap
tablets (and eventually a number of other cleaning products, too). You
can order new dissolvable tablets on a recurring or one-off basis,
thereby avoiding buying and disposing of single-use plastic products
every time you need more soap, detergent, or surface cleaner. Lest you
need reminding, plastics are made from natural gas and crude oil, so
even though you might not see emissions spewing out of your disposable
dish soap bottle, know that there is indeed a better way. —
Katie
We live in an older apartment that, unfortunately, does not
have central air, and we haven’t yet sprung for a heat pump. Upon moving
in last year, however, we replaced our old, drafty living room windows
with double-pane windows, and the ancient window unit with a
Midea
U-shaped air conditioner. Our area is relatively dense and our
apartment is across the street from a fire station, so in this case our
pursuit of energy efficiency hasn’t just improved our carbon footprint,
but also our quality of life in terms of noise. — Matthew
I did my first
Veganuary in
2021, while quarantining at my parents’ house (because there’s no time
like a global pandemic to completely upheave your lifestyle). I’ve been
a vegetarian for almost 20 years and have
never
eaten red meat, so I’d been pretty confident that going 31 days
without using any animal products would be a piece of (plant-based)
cake. Wrong. I was humbled by the challenge — and awakened to
how much dairy and eggs I consume without even realizing it. Ever since
then, I’ve been far more intentional about using ingredients like cheese
and butter only when I really need them; my husband and I
haven’t had cow milk in our fridge in years because we don’t mind the
substitutes. That’s the thing about diet: While eating plant-rich meals
is one of the highest-impact things an individual can do to reduce their
emissions, it truly
doesn’t
have to be an all-or-nothing endeavor. Believe me, I still love
cheese — but now I also know that vegan butter makes the best chocolate
chip cookies. — Jeva
When my wife and I were in college, we became vegetarians together; we
did it for reasons that involved animal welfare, personal health, and,
somewhat embarrassingly, the fact that I got really into Daniel Quinn’s
Ishmael.
For the two of us, habit-shifting environmental concerns were not yet in
the mix. Many years have since passed, and though we still don’t eat
meat, those once-distant concerns have taken center stage, and on the
rare occasion that we’re asked why we’re vegetarians, the state of the
environment has become our first response. Though it now feels almost
passive, avoiding meat remains one of the most significant ways
that we — my wife and me, and also all of us — can reduce our emissions,
and now that we’re parents, it feels like a valuable lesson that we’ve
passed on to the next generation of lentil aficionados. — Jacob
When you use toilet paper from one of the big tissue brands, you are
literally wiping your ass with a 100-year-old tree — so deeply is this
seared into my brain that I could have sworn I’d read it word for word
in the Natural Resources Defense Council’s inaugural
“Issue
With Tissue” report, but when I search the text, it’s nowhere to be
found. In any case, the message stands: As recently as last year,
all
three of the major U.S. tissue manufacturers — Kimberly-Clark,
Procter & Gamble, and Georgia-Pacific — still made their toilet
tissue and paper towels exclusively from virgin forests, which is simply
not something I can live with. In my house, we use
Seventh
Generation Extra Soft & Strong, made from 100% recycled paper
pulp and treated with non-chlorine bleach. But things are beginning to
change! The
sixth
edition report came out last week, showing that two out of the Big
Three have improved their options and practices. — Jillian
As a renter in a walkable city, I can’t get heat pumps or solar panels
and don’t need an EV. The main thing I try to do is buy used. There’s so
many vintage, consignment, and thrift stores, online used clothing and
furniture marketplaces, and even name-brand businesses that recycle old
styles and models that you can find basically anything you want.
Yearning for a pair of Lululemon leggings or in need of a basic black
J.Crew blazer? Check Poshmark or Depop, where someone is inevitably
giving away theirs for a discount. Facebook Marketplace is a goldmine
for chairs, desks, lamps, toasters, fans, air conditioners, and so much
more. If you’re in search of a couch or dresser that you need delivered,
try AptDeco. Searching for used clothing and furniture takes time and
effort, and can make me feel crazy. But fast fashion and furniture are a
scourge of the Earth, and this is my best effort at resistance. —
Emily
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again – I fully endorse buying a
used Chevy Bolt. With its estimated 259 miles of range and its zippy
acceleration, there is no better bang for your buck if you’re
considering an electric vehicle. Plus, you can score a federal (and
sometimes state-level) rebate on the purchase if you meet certain income
requirements. Factoring in incentives, it’s possible to nab one for
about
$12,000 in certain states. Sure, it’s not a head-turner, nor is it
the fastest to charge, but you’d be hard pressed to find a better deal
when buying an electric vehicle. — Mike
The internet overlords knew that I had been reporting on plastic waste
and the
myth
of plastic recycling a few years back and bombarded me for months
with perfectly targeted Instagram ads for
Blueland.
Eventually I caved and bought its reusable hand soap bottle and soap
tablets (and eventually a number of other cleaning products, too). You
can order new dissolvable tablets on a recurring or one-off basis,
thereby avoiding buying and disposing of single-use plastic products
every time you need more soap, detergent, or surface cleaner. Lest you
need reminding, plastics are made from natural gas and crude oil, so
even though you might not see emissions spewing out of your disposable
dish soap bottle, know that there is indeed a better way. —
Katie
We live in an older apartment that, unfortunately, does not
have central air, and we haven’t yet sprung for a heat pump. Upon moving
in last year, however, we replaced our old, drafty living room windows
with double-pane windows, and the ancient window unit with a
Midea
U-shaped air conditioner. Our area is relatively dense and our
apartment is across the street from a fire station, so in this case our
pursuit of energy efficiency hasn’t just improved our carbon footprint,
but also our quality of life in terms of noise. — Matthew
I did my first
Veganuary in
2021, while quarantining at my parents’ house (because there’s no time
like a global pandemic to completely upheave your lifestyle). I’ve been
a vegetarian for almost 20 years and have
never
eaten red meat, so I’d been pretty confident that going 31 days
without using any animal products would be a piece of (plant-based)
cake. Wrong. I was humbled by the challenge — and awakened to
how much dairy and eggs I consume without even realizing it. Ever since
then, I’ve been far more intentional about using ingredients like cheese
and butter only when I really need them; my husband and I
haven’t had cow milk in our fridge in years because we don’t mind the
substitutes. That’s the thing about diet: While eating plant-rich meals
is one of the highest-impact things an individual can do to reduce their
emissions, it truly
doesn’t
have to be an all-or-nothing endeavor. Believe me, I still love
cheese — but now I also know that vegan butter makes the best chocolate
chip cookies. — Jeva
When my wife and I were in college, we became vegetarians together; we
did it for reasons that involved animal welfare, personal health, and,
somewhat embarrassingly, the fact that I got really into Daniel Quinn’s
Ishmael.
For the two of us, habit-shifting environmental concerns were not yet in
the mix. Many years have since passed, and though we still don’t eat
meat, those once-distant concerns have taken center stage, and on the
rare occasion that we’re asked why we’re vegetarians, the state of the
environment has become our first response. Though it now feels almost
passive, avoiding meat remains one of the most significant ways
that we — my wife and me, and also all of us — can reduce our emissions,
and now that we’re parents, it feels like a valuable lesson that we’ve
passed on to the next generation of lentil aficionados. — Jacob
When you use toilet paper from one of the big tissue brands, you are
literally wiping your ass with a 100-year-old tree — so deeply is this
seared into my brain that I could have sworn I’d read it word for word
in the Natural Resources Defense Council’s inaugural
“Issue
With Tissue” report, but when I search the text, it’s nowhere to be
found. In any case, the message stands: As recently as last year,
all
three of the major U.S. tissue manufacturers — Kimberly-Clark,
Procter & Gamble, and Georgia-Pacific — still made their toilet
tissue and paper towels exclusively from virgin forests, which is simply
not something I can live with. In my house, we use
Seventh
Generation Extra Soft & Strong, made from 100% recycled paper
pulp and treated with non-chlorine bleach. But things are beginning to
change! The
sixth
edition report came out last week, showing that two out of the Big
Three have improved their options and practices. — Jillian
@Miguel de
Icaza Mastondon feed (date: 2024-09-23, from: Miguel de Icaza
Mastondon feed)
The escalation of violence in Lebanon and Palestine are the direct
result of the policy of the United States: with unlimited military
funding and diplomatic support for Israel, there is no room for finding
peaceful solutions, only more death and misery.
What an abject failure and a betrayal of principles.
NASA
Astronaut Tracy C. Dyson, Crewmates Return from Space Station
date: 2024-09-23, from: NASA breaking news
NASA astronaut Tracy C. Dyson completed a six-month research mission
aboard the International Space Station on Monday, returning to Earth
with Roscosmos cosmonauts Oleg Kononenko and Nikolai Chub. The trio
departed the space station aboard the Soyuz MS-25 spacecraft at 4:36
a.m. EDT Monday, Sept. 23, making a safe, parachute-assisted landing at
7:59 a.m. (4:59 p.m. […]
@Dave Winer’s
linkblog (date: 2024-09-23, from: Dave Winer’s linkblog)
Social networks are condemned when they carry lies from race-hate,
misogyny and worse, but the major news orgs do it all the time. It's
ridiculous that there are two standards.
Welcome to Decarbonize Your Life, Heatmap’s special
report that aims to help you make decisions in your own life that are
better for the climate, better for you, and better for the world we all
live in.
This is our attempt, in other words, to assist you in living something
like a normal life while also making progress in the fight against
climate change. That means making smarter and more informed
decisions about how climate change affects your life — and
about how your life affects climate change. The point is not what you
shouldn’t do (although there is some of that). It’s about what you
should do to exert the most leverage on the global
economic system and, hopefully, nudge things toward decarbonization just
a little bit faster.
We certainly think we’ve hit upon a better way to think about climate
action, but you don’t have to take our word for it. Keep reading here
for more on how (and why) we think about decarbonizing your life — or
just
skip
ahead to our recommendations.
A better way to think about individual action
At this point, everyone knows that individual action won’t solve climate
change. Didn’t BP
invent
the term “carbon footprint” in 2004 so as to distract from fossil fuel
companies’ guilt and greed?
As the journalist Rachel Cohen
has
observed, around the 2010s it became unpopular to believe that
individual action could help address any major social
problem. And sure, it’s true that only collective action — achieved
through something like the political system — will let us eventually
manage climate change at the global level.
But at Heatmap, we believe that that isn’t quite the whole story. Just
because politics and collective action are the only things that can
solve climate change doesn’t mean they are the only
things that can do something about climate change.
What’s more, the problem of carbon emissions — and the stickiness of
fossil fuels — emerges from a tight knot of chemical efficiency,
political power, and logistical lock-in. If individual consumers can pry
at that knot, can make it a little easier to imagine a post-fossil
energy system, then they can realize a zero-carbon world a little
sooner.
High-leverage actions, not just low emissions
That way of thinking about climate change, however, requires us to think
somewhat differently about how to take individual action in the first
place. Often, when you read about how to fight climate change as a
person or family, the advice assumes that you want to reduce your
responsibility for climate change. You’re advised to
turn down the thermostat in the winter (or turn it up in the summer),
shut off the lights when you leave the room, and compost.
This advice assumes that the reader’s goal is to personally exculpate
themselves or their family from global warming — and to assuage their
own guilt for participating in a polluting system.
At its most sophisticated, this advice can be valuable insofar as it can
help you cut your marginal carbon emissions. The most precise versions
of these recommendations often speak in terms of emissions abatement:
They might advise, say, that switching to a plant-based diet
could
save 0.8 tons of carbon emissions a year.
You’ll see some of that kind of recommendation in this project: It’s a
valid way to think about individual actions, and it works especially
well in some domains, such as food. But it’s not, in our view, the best
way of thinking about individual action to fight climate change.
That’s because it is essentially impossible to exculpate yourself from
climate change. That’s not being fatalistic. It’s just a fact. Simply by
living in the year 2024, your life is enmeshed in a sprawling economic
network that devours fossil fuels as its great lifestyle subsidy. Look
out the nearest window — do you see cars, asphalt, power lines,
sidewalks, buildings? Do you see steel-framed structures or a plane
cutting its way across the sky? None of those things could exist without
fossil fuels. And unless you’re looking into wild and unkempt wilderness
(if so, lucky you!), then even the plants and
grass out your window, the food in your pantry, grew
up on fertilizer that was
manufactured
with fossil fuels. If you live in a rich or middle-income
country, buy goods and clothes, eat food, use electricity, or even
leave your house by any means other than walking, then
you are responsible, to some degree, for climate change.
Trying to zero out your personal carbon footprint, in other words, is a
fool’s errand. What you can do, however, is maximize
the degree to which you’re building a new, post-fossil-fuel world.
To be clear, we don’t mean that in a woo-woo way. We’re not saying you
should imagine a kumbaya world where we all hold hands and take public
transit to the nearest all-volunteer renewable-powered co-op. We’re
saying that there are real, already existing products and technologies
that must become a bigger part of today’s built environment if we are to
have any hope of solving climate change. What you can do — and what we
recommend in this guide — is help take those technologies from the
fringes into the center of everyday life. If you want to decarbonize the
whole planet, you should think about decarbonizing your life.
What we have tried to do here is not focus on how to reduce your
marginal emissions — the number of tons that you,
personally, are responsible for pumping into the environment. Instead,
we’re trying to help you understand how to focus on
high-leverage actions — the kinds of choices that can
drive change throughout the energy system. That’s why in this guide
you’ll find advice on how to switch to an EV, buy zero-carbon
electricity, make your home more energy-efficient, and electrify your
appliances. We also recommend these in the order that we think they’ll
be most effective — to learn more about how we reached that ranking,
read about our methodology here.
The kind of shifts we advise in this guide, to be clear, won’t solve
climate change on their own. But they will help you alter the systems in
which you’re enmeshed, and they’ll make you a smarter climate citizen.
What about flying?
Flying is maybe the trickiest climate question. Although it makes up a
relatively small share of both global and U.S. emissions — about 2% each
— it is among the most climate-polluting activities many Americans will
do on a minute-to-minute basis. (Although if you live in a dense and
walkable city like New York, San Francisco, or Washington, D.C., but
travel frequently, then flying may make up a large share of your
emissions.) It is probably also the most difficult “everyday” activity
to decarbonize.
There is no practical substitute for long-distance or transcontinental
flying. Today,
only
one ocean liner regularly makes the journey from New York to
London, and it departs from each city only once a month. And unless you
hitch a ride on a container ship, there is literally no slow boat to
China. If you want to travel abroad, then you must fly. Even within the
United States, there is essentially no substitute for
long-distance flights. Europeans and East Asians can rely on superior
long-distance rail systems, but America’s extensive road network,
unusually
high infrastructure costs, sclerotic rail agency, and chronic
lack of transit investment mean that Americans are stuck with flying or
driving.
Commercial aviation is a miracle of the modern world: It facilitates a
level of global connectedness and international communication that
earlier generations could only dream of. Affordable and long-distance
passenger flight is, in many ways, the crowning achievement of our
highly technical society, and it allows for the amount of global
immigration and mass tourism that defines the modern world. (If you have
a private jet, of course, stop using it. Because so few people take each
flight, private jets are uniquely destructive for the climate, emitting
every
seven hours what the average American emits all
year.)
Fossil fuels’ weight and energy density is ideal for flying. There is,
right now, no drop-in replacement for jet fuel that is being produced at
scale. So while we have some advice about how to mitigate your climate
pollution from flying, it won’t make up a large part of this guide.
Reduce the number of flights you take if you can, sure, and take more
direct flights if possible. But the truth is that for now, there are
smarter and more high-leverage decisions that you can make.
Only decarbonization can get us closer to tackling climate change once
and for all. Our belief at Heatmap is that if you care about climate
change, then decarbonization — and not mere emissions reductions —
should be your guiding star. If you want to follow that star, then read
on.
Muslim
Americans could flex ‘political muscles’ in November US elections
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
Muslims account for less than 2% of the U.S. population, but as VOA’s
Kane Farabaugh reports, Muslim American influence in U.S. elections is
growing, driven largely by concerns over the continued war between
Israel and Hamas.
iPhone
16 dubbed Apple’s most repairable model in years
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
A low bar, for sure, but a move in the right direction
Apple’s iPhone 16 has arrived, and the teardown crew at iFixit has
wasted no time in pulling apart the latest device and found its
repairability… rather good, relatively speaking.…
The
Year’s Big Climate Summit Is Here. No, Not That One.
date: 2024-09-23, from: Heatmap News
Current conditions: One of South Africa’s busiest
highways has reopened after an unusual heavy snowfall • The streets of
Cannes turned to rivers as heavy rains swept through southeast France •
It will be about 70 degrees Fahrenheit and cloudy in New York City for
most of Climate Week.
THE TOP FIVE
Thousands descend on NYC for Climate Week
Climate Week kicked off in New York City yesterday. The event, which
corresponds with the 79th United Nations General Assembly, is expected
to draw some 100,000 people – including entrepreneurs, financiers, CEOs,
diplomats, scientists, and creatives – to discuss climate solutions.
More than 900 events are planned all over the city. Climate Week has
become “the unofficial climate summit of the year,” as
Bloombergput
it, not just because of its size, but also because of the low
expectations going into November’s U.N. COP29 climate summit in
Azerbaijan (expected to draw just 40,000 people). Climate Week
organizers
toldThe Wall Street Journal they’d seen more than 1,350
people apply to speak this year, up from 650 last year.
Here’s
this year’s official agenda. The event runs through September 29.
Warm waters could supercharge evolving storm in Caribbean
Forecasters are
warning
people in Florida’s Panhandle and along the eastern Gulf coast to
prepare for a hurricane as a storm churns through the
unusually
warm Caribbean waters. It is expected to strengthen into Tropical
Storm Helene today or tomorrow, and then become a hurricane Wednesday
before making landfall Thursday. “Helene could become a formidably
strong hurricane in the Gulf,”
according
to The Weather Channel. “That’s because heat content is one
favorable ingredient for intensification, and the map below shows there
is plenty of
deep,
warm water in the northwest Caribbean and parts of the Gulf of
Mexico.”
Weather.com
House backs bill to block EPA tailpipe rules
The Republican-led House of Representatives on Friday passed a
bill
that aims to block
new
emissions standards for light-duty and medium vehicles that were put
in place by the Environmental Protection Agency in March. The vote was
215 to 191, with eight Democrats joining 207 Republicans in support. But
the bill is very unlikely to get past the Senate, and will face a veto
if it somehow makes it to President Biden’s desk. The EPA
estimates
that the rules could see EVs make up anywhere between 30% and 56% of new
light-duty sales from model years 2030 to 2032, and avoid more than 7
billion tons of carbon dioxide emissions and provide nearly $100 billion
of annual net benefits to society by improving public health, and
reducing fuel and maintenance costs for drivers.
New report spotlights where net zero targets are falling short
More than 40% of “non-state entities” – that is, major companies,
regions, and cities – do not have targets in place for curbing
greenhouse gas emissions, according to
a
new report from Net Zero Tracker. The group’s annual stocktake
examines net zero targets “across all countries, states, regions in the
largest 25-emitting countries in the world, all cities with more than
500,000 inhabitants, and the largest 2,000 publicly listed companies in
the world.” It found that, while more net zero targets are being made,
many of these fall short on integrity measures, like providing clarity
on the use of offsets, covering all emissions scopes, annual progress
reporting, and having a published implementation plan. Among the major
companies that do not yet have a mitigation target are Tesla, Nintendo,
and Berkshire Hathaway.
Net
Zero Tracker
California firefighter suspected of igniting 5 fires
Police arrested a California firefighter on Friday
suspected
of igniting five brush fires while off duty over the last month or so.
Robert Matthew Hernandez, a 38-year-old CAL FIRE fire apparatus
engineer, is under investigation in connection with the Alexander Fire,
the Windsor River Road Fire, the Geysers Fire, and the Geyser and Kinley
fires. Luckily the blazes combined only burned through less than an
acre, CAL FIRE said. But the strange development comes as the state’s
firefighters have been battling fires that have charred almost a million
acres, fueled by high temperatures and dry vegetation. “I am appalled to
learn one of our employees would violate the public’s trust and attempt
to tarnish the tireless work of the 12,000 women and men of CAL FIRE,”
Joe Tyler, the agency’s director and fire chief,
said
in a statement. Some of this year’s biggest fires in the state have been
linked to arson.
THE KICKER
There were just
1,228
mentions of “climate change” in the nearly 200,000 hours of
unscripted
TV that aired in the U.S. in the six months between September 2022
and February 2023. Fifty-eight of those mentions were on
“paranormal/mystery” programs.
Would it surprise you to learn that a quarter of Americans say that
they’ve avoided a work colleague due to differing political views?
Today, as part of
our
Office Politics series, we’re joined by Sean Westwood, director of
Dartmouth’s Polarization Research Lab, to do the numbers on
polarization’s impact on the workplace. Then, Congressional negotiators
reached a bipartisan deal over the weekend to avoid a government
shutdown in a week.
UPS
supplier’s password policy flip-flops from unlimited, to 32, then 64
characters
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
That ‘third party’ person sure is responsible for a lot of IT blunders,
eh?
A major IT hardware manufacturer is correcting a recent security update
after customers complained of a password character limit being
introduced when there previously wasn’t one.…
Feel
free to ignore GenAI for now – a new kind of software developer is being
born
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
Kubernetes whizz says devs can redefine their roles and capitalize on
coding ML rewards
Interview Software industry veteran and developer
advocate Kelsey Hightower, well known for his contributions to the
Kubernetes community, has an interesting take on generative AI: he won’t
be paying too much attention to it for now, except insofar as how it
will be instrumental in changing what it means to be a software
engineer.…
Feel
free to ignore GenAI for now – a new kind of software developer is being
born
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
Kubernetes whizz says devs can redefine their roles and capitalize on
coding ML rewards
Interview Software industry veteran and developer
advocate Kelsey Hightower, well known for his contributions to the
Kubernetes community, has an interesting take on generative AI: he won’t
be paying too much attention to it for now, except insofar as how it
will be instrumental in changing what it means to be a software
engineer.…
From the BBC World Service: Anura Kumara Dissanayake has been
sworn into office in Sri Lanka, promising “clean” politics as the
country recovers from one of its worst-ever economic crises. We hear
more. Then, as cross-border clashes continue in the Hezbollah-Israel
conflict, we ask how businesses in the affected regions of Lebanon are
grappling. Also on the program: a Tamagotchi store in the U.K. and a WTO
challenge to China’s EU dairy product investigation.
Alleged
Trump gunman wrote of ‘assassination attempt,’ prosecutors say
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
WEST PALM BEACH, Florida — The man accused of hiding out with a gun
near Donald Trump’s Florida golf course in an apparent bid to kill the
former president wrote a letter months earlier describing an
“assassination attempt” and offering a bounty on Trump’s life, U.S.
prosecutors said on Monday.
Ryan Routh, 58, has been charged with two gun crimes after he
allegedly pointed a rifle through the tree line on Sept. 15 while the
Republican presidential candidate was playing golf at his course in West
Palm Beach, according to a criminal complaint. He has not yet entered a
plea.
Routh is due to appear at a hearing scheduled to begin at 11 a.m. EDT
(1500 GMT) on Monday in which prosecutors where will ask a judge to keep
him in jail until his trial. In a court filing released before the
hearing, prosecutors said that several months prior to the incident,
Routh dropped off a handwritten letter addressed to “the world” that
offered a bounty on Trump.
“This was an assassination attempt on Donald Trump but I failed you,”
the suspect wrote, according to the filing. “I will offer $150,000 to
whomever can complete the job.”
The letter was found in a box handed over by an unidentified civilian
witness that also included ammunition, a metal pipe and four phones,
prosecutors said.
Prosecutors also said that when Routh was arrested this month his car
contained a handwritten list of dates in August, September and October
of places where Trump had appeared or was expected to appear. They said
a search of his cellphone records showed that the devices had pinged
towers near the Trump International golf course where the incident took
place and by the Mar-a-Lago resort where Trump lives.
Routh has been charged with possession of a firearm as a convicted
felon and possession of a firearm with an obliterated serial number.
More charges could follow.
A U.S. Secret Service agent spotted the weapon and fired in Routh’s
direction, causing the suspect to flee, according to the complaint.
Routh was later arrested along a Florida highway. U.S. officials have
said Routh did not fire a shot during the encounter at the golf course
and did not have a line of sight to Trump, who was a few hundred meters
away.
Authorities have not yet divulged a motive for the incident, which
the FBI has said is being investigated as an apparent attempted
assassination of Trump ahead of the Nov. 5 presidential election.
It came about two months after another gunman wounded Trump on the
ear during a campaign rally in Butler, Pennsylvania. That gunman was
shot and killed by the Secret Service. The pair of incidents revealed
the agency’s strains at a time of rising political threats and violence
in the United States.
Routh, a struggling roofing contractor who most recently lived in
Hawaii, had a criminal history. He was a vocal supporter of Ukraine who
was interviewed about his quixotic effort to recruit Afghans to fight
against Russia’s invasion.
In a 2023 self-published book, Routh wrote that Iran was “free to
assassinate Trump” for pulling the United States out of an international
nuclear deal with Teheran during his presidency.
In December 2002, Routh was convicted in North Carolina of possessing
a weapon of mass death and destruction. He was also convicted of
possessing stolen goods in 2010, according to court records.
Cellphone data showed that Routh may have been waiting in the area
for nearly 12 hours - from around 2 a.m. until about 1:30 p.m. - when
the gun was spotted, according to the criminal complaint. Investigators
found a loaded SKS-style rifle with a scope, a digital camera and a
plastic bag with food at the scene, according to the complaint.
High
inflation memories cloud US consumers’ outlooks
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
Washington — Even before the Federal Reserve approved its outsized
half-percentage-point interest rate cut last week, financial markets had
begun making credit cheaper for households and businesses as they bid
down mortgage rates, cut corporate bond yields, and chipped away at what
consumers pay for personal, auto and other loans.
How fast that process will continue now that the U.S. central bank’s
first rate cut is in the books is unclear, in particular whether easing
credit conditions will become tangible to consumers in ways that shift
attitudes about the economy before the Nov. 5 U.S. presidential
election.
Recent surveys suggest that while the pace of price increases has
declined dramatically, the public’s mood is still marred by nearly two
years of high inflation — even if falling rates signal that chapter of
recent economic history is closed and will begin making it cheaper for
people to borrow money.
“My daughter has been trying to buy a home for years and cannot,”
said Julie Miller, who works at her son’s electrical company in Reno,
Nevada, a state where home prices rose fast during the COVID-19
pandemic. One of seven key battleground states in the presidential race,
Nevada is being aggressively contested by Vice President Kamala Harris,
who replaced President Joe Biden as the Democratic candidate, and former
President Donald Trump, the Republican challenger.
If housing costs are vexing Miller’s daughter, higher prices at Taco
Bell have caused Miller to cut back on the usual Friday night trips to
the fast food retailer with her granddaughter, and left her inclined to
vote for Trump because “I don’t think Biden has done a great job with
inflation.”
Harris supporters had similar concerns about high prices even as they
vouched for her as the best candidate to address the problem.
Borrowing costs decline
The Fed’s rate cut on Sept. 18 is likely to be followed by more, with
at least another quarter-percentage-point reduction expected when
policymakers begin their next two-day policy meeting a day after the
U.S. election.
Just as rate increases feed through to a higher cost of credit for
families and businesses, discouraging them from borrowing, spending and
investing in order to cool inflation, reductions in borrowing costs
change the calculus for would-be homebuyers and firms, particularly
small businesses wanting to finance new equipment or expand
production.
Looser monetary policy, which the Fed had been signaling was on the
way, has already put money back into people’s pockets. The average rate
on a 30-year fixed-rate home mortgage, the most popular home loan, for
example, is approaching 6% after nearing 8% just a year ago. Redfin, a
real estate firm, recently estimated that the median payment on homes
sold or listed in the four weeks through Sept. 15 was $300 less than the
all-time high hit in April and nearly 3% lower than a year ago.
But with that adjustment already done, “mortgage rates are likely to
remain relatively stable for the next couple of weeks,” Chen Zhao, an
economist at Redfin, wrote in a post on the company’s website.
Indeed, under baseline estimates from the Fed’s own staff, mortgage
rates are likely to level off somewhere in the mid-5% range, meaning
most of the relief there has already occurred.
Banks have begun trimming the “prime rate” they charge their most
credit-worthy borrowers to match the Fed rate cut. Other forms of
consumer credit - the auto and personal loans where a better deal might
be available to households - have changed only marginally so far, and it
may take longer for banks to give up on charging higher finance
costs.
Investors and economists saw last week’s rate cut as less important
than the message it carried of a central bank ready to loosen credit and
confident that recent high inflation won’t recur.
Inflation in fact has registered one of its fastest ever declines,
with the consumer price index’s annual increase falling from more than
9% in June 2022 to 2.6% on a year-over-year basis last month. The Fed’s
preferred personal consumption expenditures price index rose at a 2.5%
rate in July, near the central bank’s 2% target.
Sour sentiment
The U.S. economy has been performing reasonably well despite concerns
the job market might be on the brink of weakening.
New claims for unemployment benefits remain low and unexpectedly fell
in the most recent week, while the unemployment rate, at 4.2% in August,
has risen from a year ago but is around the level the Fed feels is
sustainable without generating excess wage and price pressures. A
Philadelphia Fed index of manufacturing rose recently and retail sales
for August grew despite expectations for a drop.
But none of that has led to a decisive shift in public sentiment.
The share of Americans who see the economy as heading in the right
direction climbed to 25% in August from 17% in May 2022, according to
Reuters/Ipsos polling. Yet the share that sees the economy on the wrong
track has eased to 60% from 74% over the same period.
A New York Fed survey that through early this year showed people
feeling better off than a year ago and expecting more improvement in the
year ahead has since been moving in the other direction even as
inflation slowed further and rate cuts became more likely.
The University of Michigan’s consumer sentiment index had been
improving but then dropped in recent months and remains below where it
was before the pandemic.
The most recent U.S. Census “pulse” polls of households showed the
share who reported trouble paying household expenses in the past week
has ebbed from 2022, when inflation hit its peak, but has made little
improvement recently.
In his press conference following the rate cut last week, Fed Chair
Jerome Powell said his aim was to keep the economy on track between the
central bank’s two goals of stable inflation and a healthy job market.
To that end, credit will ease but at no guaranteed pace.
“This is the beginning of that process,” Powell said. “The direction
… is toward a sense of neutral, and we’ll move as fast or as slow as we
think is appropriate in real-time.”
Search
underway for suspects in Alabama mass shooting
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
BIRMINGHAM, Ala. — Authorities have reported no immediate arrests
after a weekend mass shooting killed four people and left 17 others
injured in what police described as a targeted “hit” by multiple
shooters who opened fire outside a popular Alabama nightspot.
The shooting late Saturday night in the popular Five Points South
entertainment district of Birmingham, rocking an area of restaurants and
bars that is often bustling on weekend nights. The mass shooting, one of
several this year in the major city, unnerved residents and left
officials at home and beyond pleading for help to both solve the crime
and address the broader problem of gun violence.
“The priority is to find these shooters and get them off our
streets,” Birmingham Mayor Randall Woodfin said a day after the
shooting.
The mayor planned a morning news conference Monday to provide updates
on the case.
The shooting occurred on the sidewalk and street outside Hush, a
lounge in the entertainment district, where blood stains were still
visible on the sidewalk outside the venue on Sunday morning.
Birmingham Police Chief Scott Thurmond said authorities believe the
shooting targeted one of the people who was killed, possibly in a
murder-for-hire. A vehicle pulled up and “multiple shooters” got out and
began firing, then fled the scene, he said.
“We believe that there was a ‘hit,’ if you will, on that particular
person,” Thurmond said.
Police said approximately 100 shell casings were recovered. Thurmond
said law enforcement was working to determine what weapons were used,
but they believe some of the gunfire was “fully automatic.”
Investigators also were trying to determine whether anyone fired back,
creating a crossfire.
In a statement late Sunday, police said the shooters are believed to
have used “machine gun conversion devices” that make semi-automatic
weapons fire more rapidly.
Some surviving victims critically injured
Officers found two men and a woman on a sidewalk with gunshot wounds
and they were pronounced dead there. An additional male gunshot victim
was pronounced dead at a hospital, according to police.
Police identified the three victims found on the sidewalk as Anitra
Holloman, 21, of the Birmingham suburb of Bessemer, Tahj Booker, 27, of
Birmingham, and Carlos McCain, 27, of Birmingham. The fourth victim
pronounced dead at the hospital was pending identification.
By the early hours of Sunday, victims began showing up at hospitals
and police subsequently identified 17 people with injuries, some of them
life-threatening. Four of the surviving victims, in conditions ranging
from good to critical, were being treated at the University of Alabama
at Birmingham Hospital on Sunday afternoon, according to Alicia Rohan, a
hospital spokeswoman.
A popular nightspot rocked by gunfire
The area of Birmingham where the gunfire erupted is popular with
young adults because of its proximity to the University of Alabama at
Birmingham and the plethora of nearby restaurants and bars.
The shooting was the 31st mass killing of 2024, of which 23 were
shootings, according to James Alan Fox, a criminologist and professor at
Northeastern University, who oversees a mass killings database
maintained by The Associated Press and USA Today in partnership with the
university.
Three of the nation’s 23 mass shootings this year were in Birmingham,
including two earlier quadruple homicides.
Mayor pleads for a solution to gun violence
Woodfin expressed frustration at what he described as an epidemic of
gun violence in America and the city.
“We find ourselves in 2024, where gun violence is at an epidemic
level, an epidemic crisis in our country. And the city of Birmingham,
unfortunately, finds itself at the tip of that spear,” he said.
AI
to power the corporate Windows 11 refresh? Nobody’s buying that
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
Microsoft should look to Apple for lessons in flogging dead horses
Opinion In the early 2010s, Intel’s PR did the tech
press rounds with a hot story. We’re so far ahead in chip fab, they
said, that nobody will ever catch up. The hacks concluded two things
from this: Intel was losing ground fast enough to be scared, and it was
right on both counts. How did that pan out again?…
Biden
to give final UN address, with focus on conflicts in Gaza, Ukraine
date: 2024-09-23, from: VOA News USA
Joe Biden makes his final presidential address before the United
Nations General Assembly this week. But hanging over his head as he
takes to the green marble podium for the last time, and as he meets
separately with other leaders in New York: conflict in the Middle East –
and how his actions have shaped it. VOA White House correspondent Anita
Powell reports from New York.
Did
you hear the one about the help desk chap who abused privileges to prank
his mate?
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
The result was no joke, thanks to a Microsoft glitch
Who, Me? Welcome, dear reader, to another instalment
of Who, Me? in which Reg readers share tales of techie woe to
remind you that your day could, in fact, be worse.…
Chinese
server-maker Inspur claims it’s on track for better liquid cooling with
‘railway sleeper’ design
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
Beijing is happy at surging sales and production capacity, falling
energy requirements
Chinese server-maker and contract manufacturer Inspur has detailed a
memory cooling tech it claims doubles the heat dissipation efficiency of
traditional air cooling without complicating system maintenance.…
Move
over, Cobalt Strike. Splinter’s the new post-exploit menace in town
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
No malware crew linked to this latest red-teaming tool yet
Attackers are using Splinter, a new post-exploitation tool, to wreak
havoc in victims’ IT environments after initial infiltration, utilizing
capabilities such as executing Windows commands, stealing files,
collecting cloud service account info, and downloading additional
malware onto victims’ systems.…
Post Quantum Cryptography (PQC) is a critical advancement in securing
data and communication, the threat of compromise is even greater than
normal due to the fact that anything stored with pre-quantum resistant
cryptography will be immediately available to view as soon as the qubits
of quantum computing increase, which is a matter of when not if.
We’re excited to announce another significant step forward in our
commitment to open hardware: the release of
the
STEP file for our Librem 5 smartphone. This move builds upon our
previous efforts, where we released the Librem 5 hardware layouts, which
can be found
here.
Huawei
to dump Windows for PCs in favor of its own HarmonyOS
date: 2024-09-23, updated: 2024-09-23, from: The Register (UK I.T.
News)
Plus: Indian gov’s fact-checking unit ruled unlawful; Fukushima
datacenter boom; GoTo partners with Tencent, too
Asia In Brief Huawei’s current PCs are the last it
will make that run Windows, and future machines will run its own
HarmonyOS instead, according to the chair of the Chinese giant’s
consumer business group, Yu Chengdong.…
The pgAdmin Development Team is pleased to announce pgAdmin 4 version
8.12. This release of pgAdmin 4 includes 13 bug fixes and new features.
For more details please see the
release
notes.
pgAdmin is the leading Open Source graphical management tool for
PostgreSQL. For more information, please see
the website.
Notable changes in this release include:
Features:
Added feature to restore preferences to their default values.
Add a new config variable - ALLOW_SPECIAL_EMAIL_DOMAINS to allow special
domains for pgAdmin user emails.
Allow running non-continuous selected SQL code blocks in the query tool.
Bugs/Housekeeping:
Fixed a security issue where the OAuth2 client ID and secret were
exposed through the web browser (CVE-2024-9014).
Improved the extensibility of the SchemaView and DataGridView.
Fix the query tool restore connection issue on the server disconnection
from the left side object explorer.
Revamp the current password saving implementation to a keyring and
reduce repeated OS user password prompts.
Fixed an issue where users could not use pgAdmin if they did not have
access to the management database.
Fixed an issue where servers listed in the servers.json file were being
reimported upon container restart.
Added support for OIDC based OAuth2 authentication.
Fixed an issue where the cursor moves to the end of line when editing
input fields.
Fixed an issue where different client backend shows all SQL are the
same.
Fixed an issue where the “Quit App” confirmation modal in desktop app is
not respecting “Confirm on close or refresh?”
Builds for Windows and macOS are available now, along with a Python
Wheel, Docker Container, RPM, DEB Package, and source code tarball from
the tarball area.
Pigsty
v3: 336 extensions and MSSQL/Oracle flavor PG kernels!
date: 2024-09-23, from: PostgreSQL News
The Pigsty community is thrilled to
announce Pigsty
v3.0,
which delivers 336
unique extensions. and several in-place PG kernel replacements.
You can replace vanilla PostgreSQL with
Babelfish for
MSSQL compatibility, with
IvorySQL
for ORACLE compatibility, and
PolarDB
for Aurora flavor. You can also wrap any existing PostgreSQL kernel /
RDS with add-ons: serving MongoDB wire protocol with the latest
FerretDB or
the self-hosting firebase alternative
Supabase,
which is newly available on Debian/Ubuntu in addition to EL distros.
We also have
DuckDB
support with the CLI binary and PostgreSQL extensions, such as
pg_lakehouse / pg_analytics /
duckdb_fdw and pg_duckdb (alpha) and many
other extensions, to serve the OLAP race in the PG ecosystem. Check the
complete release
note for all the details.
About Pigsty
Pigsty is a Battery-included, local-first PostgreSQL Distribution as an
open-sourced RDS alternative.
GSoC
2024: Statistical Analysis of LLVM-IR Compilation
date: 2024-09-23, from: LLVM Blog
Welcome! My name is Andrew and I contributed to LLVM through the 2024
Google Summer of Code Program. My project is called
Statistical
Analysis of LLVM-IR Compilation. The objective of this project is to
provide an analysis of how time is spent in the optimization pipeline.
Generally, drastic differences in the percentage of time spent by a pass
in the pipeline is considered abnormal.
Background
In principle, an LLVM IR bitcode file, or module, contains IR features
that determine the behavior of the compiler optimization pipeline. By
varying these features, the optimization pipeline, opt, can add
significantly to the compilation time or marginally. More specifically,
optimizations succeed in less or more time; the user can wait for a
microsecond or a few minutes. LLVM compiler developers constantly edit
the pipeline, so the performance of these optimizations can vary by
compiler version (sometimes significantly).
Having a large IR dataset such as
ComPile
allows for testing the LLVM compilation pipeline on a varied sample of
IR. The size of this sample is sufficient to determine outlying IR
modules. By identifying and examining such files using utilities which
are being added to the
LLVM IR
Dataset Utils Repo, the causes of unexpected compilation times can
be determined. Developers can then modify and improve the compilation
pipeline accordingly.
Summary of Work
The utilities added in
PR37
are intended to write each IR module to a tar file corresponding to a
programming language. Each file written to the tar files is indexed by
its location in the HF dataset. This allows easy identification of files
for tools which can be used for data extraction and analysis in the
shell, notably clang. Tar file creation allows for potentially using
less storage space then downloading the HF dataset to disk, and it
allows code to be written which does not depend on the Python
interpreter to load the dataset for access.
The Makefile from
PR36
is responsible for carrying out the data collection. This data includes
text segment size, user CPU instruction counts during compile time
(analogous to time), IR feature counts sourced from the LLVM pass
print<func-properties>, and maximum relative time
pass names and percentage counts. The data can be extracted in parallel
or serially and is stored in a CSV file.
An important data collection command in the Makefile is clang -w
-c -ftime-report $(lang)/bc_files/file$@.bc -o /dev/null. The
output from the command is large, but the part of interest is the first
Pass execution timing report:
A user can visually see the distribution of these passes by using a
profiling tool for .json files. The .json file for a given bitcode file
is obtained by clang -c -ftime-trace <file>.
The visualization of this output can be filtered to the passes of
interest as in the following image:
The CoroConditionalWrapper pass is accounted by the “Total
CoroConditionalWrapper” block. Clearly, that pass takes a far smaller
amount of time than the others, as accounted for by the pass execution
timing report. However, instead of seeing the pass as an insignificant
percentage of time, the visualization allows for additional comparisons
of the relative timings of each pass. The example image has the
optimization passes of interest selected, but the .json file provides
information on the entire compilation pipeline as well. Thus, the entire
pipeline execution flow can be visualized.
Current Status
Currently, there are three PRs that require approval to be merged. There
has been ongoing discussion on their contents, so few steps should be
left to merge them.In the current state, users of the utilities in
PR38
should be able to readily reproduce the quantitative results I had
obtained for my GSoC midterm presentation graphs. Users can easily
perform outlier analysis as well on the IR files (excluding Julia IR).
Some of the results include the following:
Scatter Plot of C IR Files:
Table of outliers for C IR files:
Future Work
It was discussed in PR 37 to consolidate the tar file creation into the
dataset file writer Python script. This is a feature I wish to implement
in order to speed up the tar file creation process by having the bitcode
files written from memory to the tar instead of from memory, to disk, to
tar.
As mentioned, Julia IR was not analyzed. Modifying the scripts to
include Julia IR results is desirable to make complete use of the
dataset.Adding additional documentation for demonstration-of-use
purposes could help clarify ways to use the tools.
Additionally, outlier analysis can be expanded upon by using more
advanced outlier detection methods. Not all the data collected in the
CSV files was used, so using those extra features–in particular the
print<func-properties> pass–can allow for improved
accuracy in outlier detection.
Acknowledgements
I would like to thank my mentors Johannes Doerfert and Aiden Grossman
for their constant support during and prior to the GSoC program.
Additionally, I would like to acknowledge the work of the LLVM
Foundation admins and the GSoC admins.